When I received my sampler set of this company’s fragrances, the packaging was minimal and simple (as are the bottles). It seemed (at least to me-after sniffing all nine of them) that they concentrated more on what is actually IN the bottle and juice than how it looked or some fancy advertising campaign. Laboratorio Olfattivo (Olfactory Laboratory in Italian) truly lives up to their name as each and every one of these perfumes are elegant creations that come across as astutely as they are named, with an almost clinical precision; yet, each one has an intrinsic beauty that defies the fact they are not 100% natural. Based in Rome, this company has been distilling and releasing stunning fragrances since 2010 and these two scents (both released last year) are superb…and very appropriate for late spring and early summer wear.

I am always excited to try new fragrances from Houses I have not really explored, especially niche ones. I have a soft spot in my perfumed heart for Italian fragrances. Without being brusque, overbearing or obnoxious, this company encapsulates that Italian aesthetic of both luxury and quality with sensibility and charm. This is not a company one will see on the counters at your local mall, or in magazine ads. Their scents are not sold on the major commercial niche online perfume sites I follow…but are completely worth searching out and acquiring.

Noblige, nosed by Marie Duchene (who also created many Nobile 1942 perfumes), is so named from a contraction of noblesse (nobility) and oblige (to owe or be grateful to) and wafts an air of refinement; yet feels very comfortable and is not the least bit “stuffy”. This opens with a stunning lemon note escorted, but not overshadowed, by a restrained bergamot. This is a cold, almost sharp, lemon (possibly Amalfi) that keeps from getting too sour by the well-mannered and suave bergamot. The two together would no doubt float away whimsically; if it were not for the lavandin (an aromatic compound in lavender) in the opening, which keeps them both grounded and softly draped in a sheer almost woody green.

The heart of this fragrance is almost an embarrassment of floral and musky richness. Lavender’s soft clean and invigorating floral aroma bursts out of the fresh green and citric opening adding a very classy (and classic) fougere aspect. Cold iris and warm neroli on either side add to its floral nature, with iris smoothing lavender’s woodiness somewhat and neroli drawing out its softer and more powdery nuances. This heart is floral, indeed, (even the musky notes come from ambrette seeds) yet it is completely unlike your typical floral fragrance.  Vacillating between clean and dry, cool and earthy to creamy and sexy Noblige radiates a very noble and regal air without pomposity and makes me feel privileged to wear it. Despite all these the flowers, this is not “girly” or even overly masculine, for that matter, it is simply and eloquently stated and well-balanced without ever committing to either side of that pesky “gender line”.

 

An ethereal vanilla vapor begins to rise, as it finally starts to settle on the skin, adding tonka bean for a very cozy feeling of comfort without too much sweetness. Perhaps, it is the steely orris that cuts the usual sweetness of these two notes together; or it could be the soft and intriguing white musk. Whatever it is, this perfume is simply amazing and compounds notes that have been used in perfumes for centuries yet the result is unique and unlike anything I have smelled before with many of these same aromatics being used. Nobility may be a birthright, as far as royalty goes, yet this scent shows us that it is not so much what is IN a particular perfume but how it is used and how it is blended. Mdm. Duchene has shown us that it is not your lineage or title that makes an impression, so much as how you carry yourself. Noblige smells rich and royal while being tender and down to earth reminding us nobility is a state of mind and manner of behaving…not something you’re born with-it’s something you either have or don’t have. This has it!! Sillage: moderate. Longevity: slightly above average.

Decou-Vert, nosed by David Maruitte, attempts to combine three different types of fragrances: floral-green, aquatic and woody. Decoupage is a type of collage created with paper and pictures. This, on the other hand, is a collage created by three different types of scents with the common thread being GREEN. Green is what immediately greets the nose upon applying as lily-of-the-valley, surrounded with lush and verdant leaves, shimmers and shines. The website says often we must often look beyond the leaves and vegetation to find and see the true beauty of flowers and Nature. Muguet sets the stage for this perfectly and the foliage, though thick and full, is soft and easily parted as we peek beneath and beyond.

 

Diana Ross and The Supremes in Lilac

Beneath the leaves and demure innocence of muguet lies the sublime lilac and a sensual subdued jasmine rounded out by creamy warmth of magnolia. After the lily and leaves are behind us, lilac is the most prominent floral. Its subtle sensuality heightened by jasmine’s naughty but extremely playful nature. Magnolia, usually a rather forward floral, is here more in the background making it warmer and airier as opposed to heavier. The green opening fades, as the blossoms appear and open, but never quite goes away keeping it true to its name. If these three flowers were The Supremes, lilac would be Diana Ross with jasmine and magnolia as her back-up singers. They harmonize beautifully but lilac is always in the foreground leading the song while the green ensemble plays on.

A mix of airy and subtle mosses, light soft woods and pollen from magnolia make up the gentle but sturdy base of this scent. The moss is a softer more intimate green than in the opening, and the woods are not heavy sandalwood or even hearty cedar. The whispers of wood are more akin to ash wood or softer tulip tree or even watery willow. The rich dry grains of pollen add a soft golden (yet still unmistakably floral) glow to the finish without being musky or oriental. Something I find extremely novel in a floral and/or green perfume. We may have to push past the leaves, at times, to find the treasure of the flowers, yet Decou-Vert also reminds us not to get too fascinated with the flowers as the true beauty of Nature is in the whole picture. Sillage: above average. Longevity: very good.

The most interesting thing about this company is how and why it was formed. There are no marketing strategies here, no focus groups or corporate bottom lines. Labortorio Olfattivo was created to give those who want to make true artisanal perfumes and all noses involved are given free rein to create their idea of beauty, with no limits on creativity; so they can be as true as possible to the inspiration behind the fragrances and produce outstanding perfumes.  

Disclosure: Reviews based on samples from Laboratorio Olfattivo.    

–John Reasinger, Senior Editor