According to Camille Henfling, the Netherlands-based perfumer and creative director behind the Von Eusersdorff line, the Von Eusersdorff family was prominent in trading rare oils and flower essences and running apothecaries as far back as the fifteenth century. As a direct descendant of that lineage, Mr. Henfling made a late-career decision to carry on his heritage and create perfume. Studying in Grasse to hone his skills, and working with an experienced team, he has created a line of well-made perfumes that are based on classic perfumery notes. He launched the line in 2010 with Classic Patchouli, followed by Classic Myrrh, Classic Mimosa, and Classic Vetiver in 2011.
Blue Oranges by Jeffrey Terrison
The newest addition to the line is Classic Orange, released this year. Starting with a fresh, crisp orange, with a marmalade bitter edge, this is an engaging, wearable entry into the more complex, less cologne-style citrus scent family. It would be appropriate to wear to a family dinner or holiday event where you want to smell good but not clash with the food or traditional décor aromas. It could certainly be worn year-round, of course, but I have an eye toward the upcoming seasonal festivities, and can see this as an easy choice. Nicely done, with moderate sillage.
Notes: Sicilian blood orange, petit grain, black tea accord, osmanthus, Haitian sandalwood, musky notes
Mimosa by Marion Hedger
I started my foray into the rest of the collection with Classic Mimosa. I enjoy the scent of mimosa (or acacia) and am always intrigued by perfumes with that note. The perfume opens astringent and leafy, with the mimosa making its presence known right away. I enjoy the dusty, sunny nature of this note; it’s not dewy and pretty like many florals, but smells like dry grasses and heat. As the fragrance settles in, it develops a slightly soapy nature, like a really good French linden spa soap. The opening sillage is voluminous and bright, but it settles down to the occasional surprise wisp pretty quickly. Next to skin, the drydown retains that dryly grassy nature, and is quite lovely.
Notes: bergamot, neroli, green leaves, mimosa, violet, rose, marine, musk, orange blossom, vanilla
Grasslands 5 by Nanci Erskine
Classic Vetiver is heavy on the citrus and light on the vetiver. Vetiver can easily overwhelm a scent composition, so it’s nice to find a clean, light vetiver perfume that also has some substance. The fragrance has enough complexity to make it interesting and let it stand out from other perfumes that feature this note. As the scent settles down, it delivers a pleasantly clean, slightly spicy aura. It’s a worthy addition to the vetiver genre.
Notes: grapefruit, bergamot, lemon, geranium, elemi, peppercorn, cedarwood, black patchouli, Haitian vetiver
Fantasy Forest by Wei Wei Hua
Myrrh is so warming; it’s one of my favorite cold-weather perfume aromas. Classic Myrrh is a lovely, incensey, woody, dark perfume that envelops you in a warm cloud of rich smokiness. It is not so smooth that you just fall into it, though; there are peaks and valleys, from the sudden crispness of violet leaf to the deep patchouli. I had interesting impressions while wearing this, of tromping through a dark deep forest full of spiritual magic wrapped in smoky skins and furs. It is a very enjoyable, long-lasting perfume.
Notes: incense, cedar leaf, petitgrain oranger, guaiac wood, violet, sanderwood, black patchouli, vetiver, Spanish cistus
Underground – Plans by Samuel123
Everyone who knows my tastes knows that I do not shy away from patchouli. Classic Patchouli is true to the spirit of the ingredient, with some sweetness added in just to balance out the drier facets of the note. I am surprised by this perfume, though, because despite the accompanying notes, it is unabashedly dark. When my nose is close to my skin, it is almost like smelling deep, moist earth. Hovering above my skin are the tonka and vanilla playing off of the darkness to add some sunshine. The sweeter notes come forward at the far drydown as it all settles into a warm skin scent. It has moderate sillage and good longevity, and patchouli afficionados will apreciate it.
Notes: bergamot, black patchouli, vanilla, tonka bean, sandalwood
I enjoyed testing the Von Eusersdorff line; it has variety, it is well-made, and each fragrance plays homage to its main note whilst still giving each some individuality. I’m looking forward to seeing how this line progresses.
I received my samples from Von Eusersdorff New York. The line can be found online at First in Fragrance and Jovoy, priced at €115 for a 100 ml bottle. We hope to see it in the US soon, as well.
Tama Blough, Senior Editor
We have an amazing international giveaway! Thanks to the lovely people at Von Eusersdorff New York, we have a deluxe draw prize consisting of a full 100 ml bottle of your choice, plus a set of five 10 ml samples (one of of each fragrance in the line, as shown above), plus extra goodies. Please let us know which of these you would pick for your full bottle, and what part of the review caught your eye that made you attracted to it. Please be specific, and only pick one. This draw is open to all readers. Draw ends November 15, 2013.
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.