Vero Kern and her dog Isidor

Vero Kern is a perfumer who has rocked the perfume world with a small but mighty body of work. Launching her .vero.profumo. line with three extraits in 2007, .onda., .kiki., and .rubj.; adding Eaus de Parfum of those three in 2010; and then a fourth fragrance in EDP, .mito., last year. This year, she brings us all four in a new concentration, Voile d’Extrait. With the same scent profiles as the extraits, but a lighter concentration and lower price, these are a welcome addition to the line. I have decided to review these as I would fragrances I have never smelled, to start fresh, and avoid the kinds of comparisons and contrasts to the existing versions that are bound to happen.

Oak Tree Meditation by Laura Iverson

I started with .kiki. Voile d'Esprit on an evening that was the end of a rather blue day. I have a touchy relationship with lavender: too much of the herbal side and I am sneezing, but I adore the floral, aromatherapeutic aspects. This is a perfect perfume for someone like me. When I sprayed some on, I felt almost immediately soothed, but also revived. It is pungent, and has herbal qualities which are softened by geranium and sweet opopanax. If a fragrance can be described as “spiritually uplifting”, then that is how I would describe .kiki., although it is light years more complex, interesting and beautiful than a mere aromatherapy oil. It envelops you in a perfect cloud of scent, and has decent longevity.

Notes: Bergamot, Citrus, Cassis, Lavender Absolute, Geranium, Opoponax, Caramel, Patchouli, Musk

Artwork for Peerless Tobacco

Perfumes that can scoop memories out of my mind and let me live them again are coveted and rare, and one of the best is .onda. Voile d'Esprit. When I wear it, I go to a place of comfort that is largely populated by my father, who always smelled good; a bit of cigar, some good cologne, a skin scent just like my own. This perfume takes me to the tobacconist’s shop, even though it has no tobacco notes, and to the big walk-in humidor I loved. It had a moist, earthy smell born of the wooden boxes and the finely rolled cigars within them. I would stand there inhaling while my Dad picked out his favorites, and some new ones to try. I think this perfume is so sensual that it can’t help but conjure memories of my sensualist father, who loved fine perfumes and spirits and color and texture and art. People describe this as a vetiver fragrance, and it is, but it is more complex, dark, peaty, and earthy than any mere vetiver could ever hope to be. The sillage is quite potent, and longevity is terrific.

Notes: Bergamot, Citrus, Mandarin, Ginger, Coriander, Basil, Iris, Ylang ylang, Honey, Vetiver bourbon, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Musk.

Precious Stone: Ruby by Alphonse Mucha

Neroli and orange blossom perfumes are high on my "love" list, and .rubj. Voile d'Esprit was instantly added to my favorites in that genre. It is not dewy and bright and green, but ripe and rich, like a blossom that has reached its absolute peak before sliding into decay. As the scent progresses, the aroma takes on an aspect I can only describe as waxy. It makes me think of some kind of floral unguent that might have been used way back when. This is not unpleasant or medicinal, but rather comforting and sweet. It’s a different kind of drydown than what I normally experience with orange blossom scents, and I like it. It wears fairly close to skin, and lasts several hours.

Notes: Bergamot, Mandarin, Neroli, Orange flower absolute, Tuberose, Jasmin, Cedar, Mousse de chène, Musk.

Magnificent Magnolia by Meredith Haley Sonsen

There is something about .mito. Voile d'Extrait that flings me back in time. It feels old-school and elegant, which magnolia perfumes can do for me. The fruity top notes add a lovely crispness to the sultry florals, and the galbanum adds mossy green notes. Again, the flowers are at their peak, and the champaca brings a tropical moistness. As my day went by, even though I was doing nothing exciting, I felt glamorous, like I should have red lipstick on. This is a very enjoyable fragrance, with moderate sillage and longevity.

Notes: Citrus accord, Peach, Magnolia Grandiflora, White Magnolia, Champaca Absolute, Tuberose, Galbanum, Hyacinth, Labdanum, Musk.

Ms. Kern is one of my personal role models for style, and her perfumes are just as stylish and timeless as she is. Every one, even if it is based on a commonly used heart note, has a unique edge. Wearing one of her creations is akin to wearing evocative, beautiful art on your body.

I received my samples courtesy of .vero.profumo.'s Italian representation Campomarzio70.

Tama Blough, Senior Editor

Thanks to the generosity of .vero.profumo. and Campomarzio70 we have a set of generously sized samples packaged in a beautiful purple pouch tied with red satin ribbon for one of our US readers. Leave a comment about your favorite in the line, or which of these appeals to you the most. Remember to let us know you are in the US. Draw ends November 1, 2013.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.