New Niche Fragrance Review: Thirdman Eau Nomade + Nouveau-Cologne Full Bottle Draw

Art-Nouveau-03

We are in the middle of a cologne renaissance. There have been a number of companies making what I call “Nouveau-Cologne”. The idea is to respect the traditional cologne architecture but not necessarily, or perhaps essentially, the concentration precedent. The original eau de colognes were initially bracing, full of bright notes that lasted for an hour or two. If you wanted it to last all day you probably needed a travel spray to re-apply at least once if not a couple of times. The Nouveau-Colognes have the same set of bracing brightness attached to them but they also add lighter woods or musks to persist after the more volatile notes have disappeared. Along with upping the concentration of perfume oil so that you are applying more right from the start these two things lead to a long-lasting cologne. Among the perfume houses leading the charge on this front is Thirdman.

bruno jovanovic

Bruno Jovanovic

In the spring of 2012 Thirdman released three examples of this type of cologne I am writing about. The one irritating part of these releases was Thirdman chose to hide the names of the perfumers at the time of their debut. I thought that was a shame because these three colognes were all very good and to effectively pull off the trick of having long-lasting cologne that still felt light is not easy and those who did it deserved the credit. As the year developed Thirdman came to the same conclusion and so it was revealed that Eau Profonde was by Clement Gavarry and Bruno Jovanovic did the other two, Eau Moderne and Eau Monumentale. Bruno Jovanovic was tapped to create the fourth Thirdman fragrance Eau Nomade which has just been released.

There are three listed notes for Eau Nomade; cardamom, blood orange, and Sicilian lemon. You might look at those and think there is no way Eau Nomade has any longevity and, at least in my testing, you would be incorrect. M. Jovanovic expertly blends those three notes and uses the skill of the perfumer to make them last all day on my skin as Eau Nomade conjures up a desert milieu full of dust and sun. M. Jovanovic delivers cologne with a spicy swirl over a duet of sunny citrus.

 eau nomade thirdman

M. Jovanovic as he did with the same number of notes, three, in his previous two Thirdman colognes knows how to separate each note into a distinctive part of the development before allowing it all to mix and persist at the end as a single accord. For Eau Nomade the Sicilian lemon plays the part of the desert sun bright and unrelenting with a tart intensity. The cardamom swirls into the mix complemented by the lemon but providing a piquant edge which cleaves the citrus facets of the lemon away leaving the slightly lemon aspects of the spicy cardamom ascendant. The final player is blood orange and this is a note that so often just smells like orange. If you have ever encountered a blood orange there is a richness to it that goes beyond the garden variety orange. That rich deep quality I have found to be rarely captured in a fragrance or at the very least overwhelmed by the other notes surrounding it. In Eau Nomade there is no competition and it coalesces beautifully as the citrus facets match the lemon and the rich facets match the cardamom. Once this accord clicks into place this is where Eau Nomade lingers until the end. As I’ve said they aren’t listed but at the very end I believe I detect a tiny bit of ambrox and synthetic white musk. They only really become detectable to me many hours after I’ve applied Eau Nomade but it makes sense that they are there as a way to increase the longevity but not to impose their will on the central notes.

Eau Nomade lasted through a typical work day both days I wore it with above average sillage in the beginning before wearing very close to the skin for the latter part of the day.

Thirdman has become a very reliable source of these Nouveau-Colognes and they are perfect for the summer as I wore all three of the Thirdman colognes last summer a lot and Eau Nomade will go right to the top of that rotation because the blend of citrus and cardamom is exactly my cup of cologne.

Disclosure: This review was based on a sample of Eau Nomade provided by EM Distribution.

Thanks to EM Distribution we have a 100 ml bottle of Eau Nomade as a draw for one US reader. To be eligible leave a comment naming your favorite cologne, nouveau or not. This is a US only draw and the draw will end on April 28, 2013.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

-Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

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48 comments

  • wefadetogray says:

    I think my favorite cologne which I wear only in the Summer is Citrus Verbena by L’occitante. Thanks for the draw 🙂

  • This sounds great! Dior Cologne Blanche (discontinued – boo!) is my favorite cologne. Another that I wear often is Caron Eau de Reglisse. Thank you for the drawing.

  • Victoria Casey says:

    Don’t laugh but I have a bottle of Avon’s Moonwind cologne that I really like.

  • This sounds really nice – I will have to check it out.

    I have always had a soft spot for 4711, but have a lemming for Fleur de Cedrat by Guerlain. I also like Mugler Cologne.

    I live in the US!

  • I’m in the US and in the summer, I keep a bottle of 4711 in the fridge for really hot days. Eau Nomade combines blood orange and cardamom, how could it not smell great.

  • I am such a fan of this line and must say my favorite Colognes are Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine, Atelier Cologne Sous le Toit and Thirdman Eau Profonde. US addy here…..:)

  • I was just reading about this fragrance and made a note to try to get a sample. My favorite cologne right now is Atelier Grand Neroli.

    Thanks for the terrific draw!

  • I grew up in a very European household with copious amounts of 4711 bottles in all sized floating around the house….this would be my favorite cologne as it conjures up memories of my childhood.

    thank you for such a generous draw! I reside in the US

  • just breathe says:

    Orange sanguine is my fav cologne…makes me happy whenever I sniff it 😀 !!!
    thanks for the draw…I live in the US.

  • My hat is being thrown in because I have no idea what in the world this would smell like! It sounds right up my sister (who lives in the US)’s alley though. She loves all that is citrus, and I like the people close to me to smell good!

  • My favorite is probably the old chestnut 4711, but I also love Atelier’s Grand Neroli, and keep meaning to try the Mugler… I live in the US.

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    my favorite cologne is vintage Eau de Guerlain…the most authentic interpretation of citrus in my opinion though i like the artistic interpretation of eau Sauvage better

  • I live in the US and my favorites eau de colognes are : Acqua di Parma, Hierbas de Ibiza Mistral Patchouli and CdG Vetiveru.

  • In US. Love Eau Moderne and Eau Monumentale. And have a feeling I’ll love Eau Nomade even more. Thanks for the draw.

  • Sounds like my cup of cologne too! Currently my favorite cologne seems to be Atelier Rose Anonyme, although I am often going to my other Ateliers like Ambre Nue or Vanille Insensee. Thank you to EM Distribution for the generous draw!

  • I’ve been on a cardamom kick ever since spraying on D.S.& Durga’s Coriander a few weeks ago. I find the way it starts green and goes warm-spicy on my skin completely alluring, and I would very much like to smell how cardamom pairs with citrus as in Eau Nomade.

    That said, my favorite cologne is Diptyque’s L’Eau de Neroli. I’m in the USA and thank you for the draw.

  • sillage4ever says:

    Lately I’ve been wearing the heck out of Eau de Guerlain. Maybe Eau Nomade is the next step in my citrus-centered smell journey.

  • I’ve got to say I really do love the classic 4711. It launched a genre for a reason. I also do so much love Atelier Cologne Vetiver Fatal, although on my husband mostly.

  • helical gnome says:

    I am in the US
    I dont know much about colognes. I havent smelled many, I guess, but I like L’Eau des Hesperides Cologne
    Thanks!

  • I love Caron Pour Un Homme, it’s fresh and simple.

    Eau Nomade sounds like it could be a new favorite, I love cardamon so much!

  • Wow !!! Great Article and Draw !!! I attended an Atelier event last night in NY and sampled a few colognes. The presenter mentioned the history of “Cologne” and alluded to 4711 – which I love ! Heard only good things about Thirdman and would love to Sample !!! Thank you.

  • Sounds wonderful. I am a fan of Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine, Atelier Cologne Sous le Toit too. Would love to try this line. US reader here..

  • Linda Scott says:

    4711 is what I always think of when I think of cologne. However, I reach for Ebba’s By Sand when I want something light and refreshing on hot days – so pretty!

    I live in the US. Thanks for the lovely and generous drawing!

  • I always think of 4711 when I think of cologne! One of my favorites is Guerlain’s Eau du 68. I live in the US and thanks for the draw! 🙂

  • Charles Briggs says:

    I’m really enjoying A Lab On Fire “Liquidnight”. This is simply beautiful for spring and summer here in Oklahoma. I recently read of your line on Fragantica and it immediately peaked my interest. I enjoy out of the norm. Thanks a million for the opportunity.

  • i have a HUGE bottle of vintage chantilly cologne — and i love that stuff. it has a distinct orange note (that later dries down to a lovely spicy ambery skin-scent.) i found that bottle in an antique store and am very glad i bought it (on a whim). it is so large (16 oz !!) that i will never use it up 🙂

    for a fresher cologne, my fave would be hermes eau d’orange vert — it has a light muskiness that i adore (and it reminds me of a dear friend — now dead — who used to wear it in the summer.)

  • perfumefumes says:

    I love the idea of re-imagining eau de cologne, and this new scent sounds very intriguing. Thanks for the draw opportunity; I’m in the US.

    I have to say that my favorite “nouveau cologne” (great phrase) at the moment is Bruno Fazzolari’s Five — it too is a re-imagined take on the classic eau de colgne formulation. Five has wonderful herby and citrus bursts with a mineral quality and a long-lasting drydown. Summer here we come!

  • The one I keep coming back to is Cologne Bigarade (FM).

    Thanks for reminding me to pull it out soon!

  • lumpkinluv says:

    I really enjoy Jean Marie Farina by Roger&Gallet it is fresh and my Nana would wear it so it brings back fond memories. I live in So Cal Thanks.

  • Mugler’s and Tauer’s cologne are two of my favorites. I also enjoy BBW’s Coconut Lime and Verbena. I live in the U.S.

  • I’m pretty sure it’s not a nouveau cologne, but one fragrance that has haunted me for about 10 or more years is JAR’s Golconda. Your review of Eau Nomade actually reminded me of it, because Golconda has very few notes, and the few it does have, are a similar juxtaposition of bright (floral — carnation — as opposed to citrus) and spicy (clove?). The architecture is quite different from Eau Nomade though. While I’m not a big fan of citrus scents, I’d like to try Eau Nomade this summer.

  • my dad had a jo malone that was nice. i don’t have any cologne, so this house intrigues me.

    I live in the US