Bertrand Duchaufour and Maharaja Gaj Singh II

When Bertrand Duchaufour turns his mind to composing perfume which captures a specific place it is my opinion that is where his greatest body of work resides. The latest example of this style from M. Duchaufour comes with the release of Penhaligon’s Vaara. M. Duchaufour was commissioned by His Highness Maharaja Gaj Singh II on the birth of his granddaughter Vaara in 2011 to create a perfume with her name. Vaara the child has yet to turn two but her existence has given birth to one of the best new fragrances of 2013.

Maharaja Gaj Singh II and Prince Charles (New Grandparents both)

The Maharaja wanted a fragrance which represented his home in Jodhpur and so M. Duchaufour spent time in the area absorbing the vibe. This is not the first time that India has inspired fragrances by M. Duchaufour and there are some recognizable touchstones particularly around the use of rose in the heart. What I am always surprised with is how he can ostensibly work the same inspiration and yet be able to keep evolving the style associated with that inspiration. Over the last year I have mentioned that if you really group some of the fragrances M. Duchaufour creates you will be delighted at absolutely experiencing the evolution of a singular style around a singular inspiration. Vaara is a prime example of what I’m talking about.

The "Blue City" aka Jodhpur, India

Vaara sweeps you away to Jodhpur from its first moments as the opening gambit is an exotic mix of coriander sweetened with carrot seed. The scents of the spice market are represented by surprisingly strong saffron which despite its power lilts through the early development until it intertwines itself with two rose sources, from Morocco and Bulgaria, this is the central accord to Vaara. M. Duchaufour uses iris and magnolia as supporting notes but you have to focus to find them. The rose and saffron are ascendant for much of the development. Very slowly a sweet honey begins to coat the rose as the saffron recedes. Creamy sandalwood is the star of the base notes and it is accentuated to stay on the sweeter side by benzoin and tonka.

Vaara has all-day longevity and moderate sillage.

Vaara is an olfactory landscape full of the grandeur of an exotic locale but what always sets these kinds of fragrances apart in M. Duchaufour’s hands are the nuances. The saffron and rose are expected but the use of the carrot seed and benzoin to trend this sweeter is something that elevates these kinds of compositions from clumsy travelogue to something more lyrical.  What I do know is Vaara has found its way close to the top of my favorite fragrances of 2013.

Disclosure: this review was based on a sample provided by Parfum1.com

Thanks to Parfum1.com we have five samples of Vaara to giveaway. This is a worldwide draw. To be eligible leave a comment naming your favorite of M. Duchaufour’s travel inspired perfumes or your favorite Penhaligon's London fragrance. The draw ends July 29, 2013.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

-Mark Behnke, Managing Editor