Every September provides me with vicarious joy as I read the reports coming in from Pitti Fragranze in Florence. As I read what people think and discover my mental checklist begins to be populated with the perfumes I am most excited about trying. From the 2013 edition right at the top of my list were the two new releases from Parfums MDCI, Cuir Garamante and Nuit Andalouse. I thought it would be another few weeks before I got to try either of these but then I got a pleasant surprise as I walked into Osswald NYC on Sunday morning of the recent Sniffapalooza Fall Ball 2013. I asked as I entered “What’s new?” and then I spotted the bottle with the bust as a cap and there was Cuir Garamante.
The Ruins at Germa- The Ancient Capital of Les Garamantes
Claude Marchal, the owner and creative director, of Parfums MDCI has always directed the perfumers who create the fragrances for his line to take the familiar and make it unfamiliar. Cuir Garamante’s name comes from Les Garamantes a lost tribe of the Sahara. Their lasting mark on the region was the development of a series of interconnecting tunnels which transported water called Foggaras. I found that inspiration especially apt as I wore Cuir Garamante. On the surface it is an ambery leather fragrance but underneath that template there is a lot going on beneath as spices, flowers, and woods tunnel within and without through the amber and leather.
Claude Marchal (Photo via Frangipani blog)
Right from the first moments the leather is in place and it is joined by amber in the presence of ambrox. The ambrox and leather accord blend together like hand in glove. Then a bit of nutmeg tunnels its way onto the top. As it subsides a berry note, identified as rose berry in the official notes, comes forward. Then saffron completes the spicy catacomb under the foundation. Rose, oud and papyrus add wood and florals with a bit of watery green to further decay the leather and amber. The final interstices are provided by vanilla, sandalwood, and incense. This sense of notes which interact and sort of undermine the strong core of the fragrance make Cuir Garamante a constantly evolving fragrance on my skin.
Cuir Garamante has all day longevity and average sillage.
Once again Parfums MDCI has provided an unusual look at something familiar. This time M. Marchal allowed a subterranean sabotage of the central accord to create something much greater than just a leather and amber fragrance. It is a fantastic addition to the Parfums MDCI family.
Disclosure: This review was based on a sample provided by Osswald NYC.
Thanks to Claude Marchal we have a sample of Cuir Garamante to giveaway. This is an international draw. To be eligible leave a comment on either your favorite Parfums MDCI or which one you might like. The draw will end on November 11, 2013.
We announce the winners only onsite and on our Facebook page, so Like CaFleureBon and use our RSS option…..or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.
-Mark Behnke, Managing Editor