New Niche Fragrance Review: Parfum D’Empire Musc Tonkin + Your First Perfume Love Draw

Kiss Goodnight by English School

The path that led me to the place where I write about perfume began in 1973 on my fourteenth birthday. It was that occasion where I asked for a bottle of Jovan Musk for Men. I can’t say I wanted it because I was sophisticated or stylish beyond my years. No, I fell for the ads that told me this would attract girls and at that age I wanted to attract girls. I loved it and would wear through two bottles over the next three or so years. It did help with the young women but in hindsight I believe it was more my confidence than anything musk related. It also kindled a much longer affair with musk which continues to this day. I prize my collection of musk fragrances and treasure my tiny vials of actual musk. With the ethical restrictions on sourcing the real thing I thought that my current love amongst these, Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan, would not be supplanted. The best part of this job is having that last statement proved to be erroneous.

First Love by Fred J. Sklenar

Marc-Antoine Corticchiato of Parfum D’Empire is one of the most uncompromising perfumers we currently have in the niche community and it is no surprise to me that he would take on the great challenge of making a musk fragrance without using proscribed ingredients. The limited edition Musc Tonkin is the result of this effort. Of all the musks Tonkin musk was one of the most prized and highly sought after. Supposedly only able to be sourced from a Himalayan variety of musk deer the trip alone was daunting. M. Corticchiato wanted to create a facsimile of natural musk using the ingredients available to him and even more he wanted to create an image of the elusive Tonkin musk. This effort has succeeded beyond any hope I could’ve harbored.

The First Love by Igor Rodionov

Musk is the note in perfumery which calls out to my inner caveman it is primal in its power, raw in its animal nature, and sensual in its ability to remind me of the closeness of two bodies entwined in love. It is a note not for everyone, the sheer feral nature of it turns some people off; in fact to those people they change that middle consonant to a “c”. I believe that is why the preponderance of sheer white musks are so popular because they carry many of the qualities of musk in much attenuated amounts. Musc Tonkin is the antithesis of that. Musc Tonkin is the equivalent of rolling around in the animalic splendor that is musk. It is intense. It is wonderful. It is a magic trick.

Paris Love by Vickie Wade

M. Corticchiato has recreated the smell of true musk by using a mix of many things. The reality of Musc Tonkin is so seamless I have to work very hard to get hints of what is here and even then it is more impressions of things than any belief I have that I know the secret formula behind Musc Tonkin. The heck with Coke this is a formula I would love to know. There are some highly indolic white flowers here, there is some strong resin and perhaps some myrrh, there is a bit of ozonic saltiness, there is an inky blackness, and there are other things I just am not sure of. M. Corticchiato, like Chandler Burr, asks me to appreciate the finished product and forget about the components and when it is as good as Musc Tonkin I find it easier to stop my mindful unravelling of structure and lose myself in the artistry.

Musc Tonkin has outstanding overnight longevity and way above average sillage, a little goes a long way.

Musc Tonkin is a limited edition of only 1000 bottles and I believe if this is truly all that will be produced this will become a bottle sought for many years to come; and anyone who owns one will wear a secret smile at having it.

My fragrant walkabout started almost forty years ago but Musc Tonkin reminds me that which captured my heart in the past still has the power to enthrall it again in the present. Merci M. Corticchiato at reminding me you never forget the first love.

Disclosure: This review was based on a press sample provided by Parfum D’Empire.

Thanks to Parfum D’Empire we have a very special draw for a 15mL press sample of Musc Tonkin. To be eligible you need to leave a comment on either the note which was your first love in perfume or alternatively your favorite Parfum D’Empire fragrance. We will draw one winner on December 1, 2012.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

-Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

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96 comments

  • shannon says:

    ooohhh … You have created quite a lemming here! This sounds just wonderful.

    My favorite PdE fragrances are Cuir Ottoman and Ambre Russe. Please don’t make me decide between those two, I love them equally!

  • Liz K says:

    I saw this on their website the other day and have been waiting for someone to review it. It sounds gorgeous. My favorite Parfum d’Empire fragrance is Ambre Russe. It is, in fact, one of the top contenders on my xmas list. I would love the opportunity to try the Musc Tonkin.

  • Subbie says:

    Ambre Russe seems to have quite the following here, and I must follow suit. It is also my favorite.

    Oddly enough, Jovan Musk for Men was what started my love of perfume also, although more than 20 years later. My dad always wore copious amounts when he dressed up. I could always smell him coming. It was wonderful.

  • FearsMice says:

    Hate to sound like a copycat, but Ambre Russe is my favorite of the line, too. Thanks for this remarkable draw.

  • Alisa N. says:

    My first favorite note was rose. I was a child and liked my mom’s friend’s fragrance that featured tea rose.

  • thescentinel says:

    Jasmine. Always has been, always will be.

    And just so you know…I love musk SO much, I’ve been wearing different musk perfumes on a daily basis for the past six years!

    This sounds beautiful, thank you for sharing 🙂

  • Jim says:

    I recall my first bottle of cologne I ever had was Jovan Musk for Men and I received it as a Christmas gift from an aunt. Over the years, I’ve had several musks, including Lorenzo Villoresi’s, Keihl’s, and Musc Ravageur to name a few. I’m not sure if it’s my favorite note still, but it certainly was the first note I loved – that bottle at a young age left an impression!

  • d3m0lici0n says:

    Wow, what an excellent review. I’d love to try Musc Tonkin
    My favorites from the Parfum d’Empire line are Cuir Ottoman, Wazamba and Ambre Russe.

    Thanks.

  • Kathryn says:

    Patchouli would have been the first perfume note I fell in love with, however it took me an age to figure it out. I am always assured that anything containing patchouli will match both my skin and personal tastes.

    Thanks for the draw!

  • Brooke says:

    I am delighted to read this review.. I have been a musk fan since my tween years when I would buy Skin Musk at the drugstore with my allowance. To this day, I wear musk fragrances but my preferences are toward the animalic. My favorite PdE is Equistrius. Thanks for the draw.

  • Lorraine L says:

    Parfum d’Empire is one of my favorite houses. There are so many of the scents that I love – Wazamba, Azyaide, Eau Suave, Ambre Russe. But my favorite, and the one on my Xmas list, is Equistrius.

  • Nick Ley says:

    Vanilla has to be my first love in perfume. Guerlain’s Spiritueuse Double Vanille and Tom Ford’s Tobacco Vanille have to be my top winter scents.

  • alexander says:

    I have always been attrackted by perfumes and I can’t say
    which was my first note that I loved,but I remeber the first time I went reeeaaalyy crazy about a fragrance when I was a kid.
    My mother and I was out for a walk and we went into a perfumery and I remember they showed me a few things but I didn’t paid attention because I wanted something else in that moment.A week after she bought me want I wanted I saw a blotter in on of her magazines and I recognized the picture it was the same fragrance they showed me then YSL Live Jazz.I peeled off the blotter and when I smelled it I was very sorry I chose to ask for something else.I couldn’t stop sniffing that blotter for days.It was staying in my poket and I was always thrilled to inhale this magical scent.
    I guess that was my first addiction to fragrance back in 1999 but i’m not sure what I liked about it the most.

  • Mujo says:

    My first love in perfume notes is patchouli. The first Parfum d’Empire I adored was Eau Suave and later on Azemour les Oranges. I would love to try Musc Tonkin.

  • Irina says:

    My first love in perfume was muguet
    my favorite PdE is Ambre Russe
    would love to be able to try Musc Tonkin, thanks for the draw

  • Borko Boris says:

    My first love in perfume notes was musk. That warm smell which gives an angelic aura to the wearer still is my preferred note.

    Thanks!

  • SBWhite says:

    Marc Antoine Corticchiato is a genius and I have read that this fragrance was coming out but I haven’t seen it anywhere yet so thank you and to MAC for giving us an opportunity to win Musk Tonkin
    The first fragrance I remember falling for was Egoiste by Chanel
    That commercial with all the women opening the windows if a villa shouting Egoiste is burned into my mind
    It was such an unusual scent for men and way ahead of its time with carnation and rose which wasn’t usual notes in men’s colognes in the early 90s
    I bought it at Macy’s and got a lot of compliments from the ladies
    Which was the point
    Musc Kublai Khan has been my benchmark niche musk so if Musk Tonkin outdoes it, then those who want our musk scents full force are in luck and better buy a couple of bottles

  • TaffyJ says:

    My very first love was probably the jasmine in my mother’s Emeraude. Just writing about it calls up the fragrance. Such a beautiful thing.

    Thank you for this very special draw!

  • Pau says:

    I love tuberose note, and I like how it projects in 3 Fleurs by Parfum D’Empire, so definitely this is my favorite fragrance made by this company.

  • MariaA says:

    Well my first love was LouLou by Cacharel, I went through a LOT of bottles while in highschool. At that time Body Shop’s white musk was very popular but my love for musk started a while later! Thank you for the draw!

  • Amer says:

    My first true love note was vetiver but of course I didn’t know at the time. I didn’t pay much attention to ingredients then and of course there was no internet or perfume community to help me. In retrospect I realized that every single perfume I ever bought (and loved) had Vetiver in it. Encre Noire was, is and will be my go to vetiver.
    Tonkin Musk is the release that got me most excited this year. I just NEED to try it. I have to know for myself.

  • Asali says:

    Mark, this is a beautiful review. I MUST TRY THIS, it sounds perfect, but oh, that it’s limited… I completely agree that M-AC is one of the most uncompromising in the niche perfumery, and would LOVE to win this.
    I always loved animalic notes, and think my first love note was probably bee wax/honey when it smells slightly like cats fur. And my favourite Parfum d’Empire scent is Equistrius with it’s amazing iris leather combo.
    Thank you for this wonderful draw

  • Ela says:

    Thank you for such a great review and draw of this precious edition!
    I always loved realistic accord of leather, therefore Cuir Ottoman was a winner for me.

  • marcopietro says:

    I admire mr. Corticchiato and I appreciate all of his creations, the latter sounds simply fantastic.
    My favorites from the Parfum d’Empire line is Fougere Bengale, I love it!

  • Jan says:

    My first love in perfumery was amber, in its spicy-herbal version in Ambre Sultan. I like many Parfum d’Empire perfumes, but my favourite is Aziyadé, with its fresh cola-like and cumin-laden scent. An exotic and unusual delight!

  • brie says:

    Oakmoss was my first loved note in perfume….it was ubiquitous in all of the glorious vintage scents I adored and wore as a child of the 70s. I also loved musk and there were so many around back then that were quite affordable (Jovan Musk, Aviance Night Musk, Body shop White musk,,,,,)
    thanks for the draw!

  • just breathe says:

    Frangipani… which continues to be one of my favorite notes. I have never had the pleasure of trying a parfum d’Empire on my meager perfume budget. I would love to try this one!

  • Venus says:

    Let me tell you a story
    Girl has crush on boy
    Boy asks girl out
    Boy smells so sexy
    Girl gets hot and bothered
    Boy wore Calvin Obsession
    Musk
    Alas story must pause here as the rest is rated R
    Fantastic review of one of niche perfumes most uncompromising Perfumers
    Story continues
    Boy meets girl many years later at a reunion as a man
    Man wore Musc Ravageurs
    Woman marries man
    Man would smell great in musk Tonkin
    The rest would be for mature audiences only

  • Isa says:

    Orange blossom or begamote, I don’t know because I was a child but I have always loved the scent of my first colognes.

    Thanks!

  • Darilyn says:

    Mark, what a great review! In high school, I wore
    Alyssa Ashley Civet, and her Musk. I really felt
    they were “man magnets”!!! I would love to win this
    draw…thanks!

  • Ramona says:

    OH My Gosh! I haven’t sampled everything from Parfum d’Empire, but the ones I have sampled are glorius and always clamouring for attention! Samples dont fix my need for nearly long enough and I NEED! I just NEED!
    How will I narrow down the selection and choose only a single scent and then indulge in a FB?? Cuir Ottoman? Ambre Russe? Wazamba?
    Now, I must try Musc Tonkin and become even more anguished at trying to pick a single scent. Oh, the PAIN! WHY was I not born with a silver spoon in my mouth?
    I may end up in a psych ward trying to make this decision!
    Thank you and Parfum d’Empire for the draw!

  • Fernando says:

    My first perfume love was Eau Sauvage, a gift from my parents long, long ago, and an unforgettable one. I still have the remnants of my second 200 ml bottle.

    Musk Tonkin sounds wonderful. My first and only experience with Parfums d’Empire was their recent orange perfume whose name I’m blanking on…

  • MissP says:

    My first love frag note was probably fresh cut grass, first perfume love Jovan Musk — which I actually still wear, lol. Love the sound of Musk Tonkin! I haven’t tried Pd’E. Thanks for the draw.

  • Noxa says:

    Ambre Russe of course!
    My bottle’s kind of dying on me, so I’m using it just in special occasions. I adore that scent.
    🙂

  • Gabry says:

    My first love in parfume was Farina 1709 of my grandma. I was 5 and that was i 1960… All mine first love in perfume was Guy Laroche Fidji in 1973…(like Mark!)

  • GregS says:

    The first cologne I had as a young man was DRAKKAR in the late 80’s early 90’s I used it pretty extensively, but I also dabbled with Polo & Coolwater. Thanks for the draw.

  • Joaquim says:

    Equistrus is my favorite!
    And my first love in perfume was Tresor by Lancome, my grandma weared this untill her last minute.

    Thank you for the draw!

  • farawayspices says:

    My first love was the apple blossom scent of the rosy pink Tinkerbell perfume that I had when i was a little girl, the memory of which reminds me of when life was sweet and simple.

  • Heather F says:

    Awesome draw, as ever. My favorite PdE fragrance is Cuir Ottoman, for both myself and my partner (it smells amazing on him).

  • Dionne says:

    The note I feel head over heels first was iris, and my fave PdE is Cuir Ottoman, with Equistrius very close behind it.

  • Shiloh says:

    Hmm, my first love in perfume would probably have to be a musk. Of course, at the tender age of 12 it was Malibu Musk, a fruity drugstore spray that typified the early ’90’s (at least to a pre-teen). I liked the fruity/floral open, but I fell in love in with the light musky “grown-up” scent. From there, musks were my forbidden love. Vanillas and Ambers became more acceptable to those around me, but the true lovelies in my life were always the musks. What a lovely draw, thank you!

  • sfsassy says:

    My first love in perfume was amber. When I first starting wearing perfume it was the early 90’s. I remember loving Mackie, which was not really for a young girl. I am pretty sure that was heavy on amber and musk. But I loved it!

    Thanks for he draw!!

  • RusticDove says:

    Let’s see, I’m trying to remember. I suppose my very first perfume was Muguet de Bois, so LOTV would be my first perfume note love, which is ironic since that note is difficult for me these days. Also, my first boyfriend gave me a bottle of Chanel No 5 and I thought I was sooo sophisticated wearing it! So my second love must have been nose tingling aldehydes!

    I haven’t tried many of the Parfum d’Empire line, but I do love Cuir Ottoman. Very exciting draw!

  • Sandi L says:

    Wonderful article 🙂 seriously they all are so enlightening. Favorite first note love was musk in my favorite first love worn by my grandmother as well Caron Tabac Blond. Thanks for the opportunity in the draw and the graciousness of the draw.

  • Francesca Belanger says:

    I can’t really say what my first note-love, but my first perfume love was Jicky. And my favorite Parfum d’Empire is that luscious Osmanthus Interdite.

  • yash says:

    My first love in perfume would be jasmine…heavenly, indolic jasmine…My favourite Parfum d’Empire would be the boozy and sumptious Ambre Russe
    Thank you for the draw

  • Tama says:

    Oh, my gawd, this sounds amazing. I have been resisting reading about it because it is rare, I am broke, and everyone is swooning at the mere idea.

    I had a lot of perfumes growing up, but when I discovered a good patchouli oil, that became something of a signature. I could just as easily say it was heliotrope, or rose, or powder.

    I am still exploring Parfums D’Empire but I do love Osmanthus Interdite.

    Thanks for the great review and draw!

  • Canan Pamuk says:

    My first love from oriental fragrances is Aziyadé. I like this fragrance, the story about a Girl, I love Istanbul…Aziyde is a fragrace that contents all my senses and mind too…

  • Alica says:

    Tuberose was my first love and still belongs to my top notes. From Parfum d’Empires I would choose Wazamba. Thanks!

  • Maureen says:

    My first expensive perfume was L’air du Temps in the crystal doves bottle. I still like it , but I now like oriental types as well as florals. Thanks for the draw.

  • Patty says:

    Oh, drat you Mark! I have a review ready to go on Saturday, and you beat me to it. Stinker.

    I adore this one completely. Even the PdEs I don’t like I admire. They are fast becoming one of the most interesting lines out there that I look forward to whatever they do.

    But he outidid himself on Musc Tonkin. Easily my favorite PdE and favorite musk.

    OMG, that Capcha thing just kilsl me. This shouldbe that hard.

  • Datura5750 says:

    My first love was Jovan musk for men, I still love it, I’m wearing it today!
    I love Wazamba!

  • Rebecca says:

    Am not sure what my first perfume love was (probably something that the boys wore when I was a teenager… Tommy Hilfiger or something like that…) but my first niche indulgence was Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan. I love it!

  • Dana says:

    My first fragrance I remember asking for is Babe. I loved the spices in it and I still love spicy fragrances. It was pretty darn good for a drugstore fragrance. This new frag by PdE sounds amazing.

  • Jackie b says:

    I remember being lured in by Mystere in the 80’s and wore it to death, but secretly would probably still wear it if it were the same now.

    PdeE….love Cuir Ottoman and even Wazamba in a strange piney kind of way.
    This musc sounds so fabulous!

  • Tony says:

    My fave PdE fragrance is ambre russe and my first love in perfume is versace blue jeans , which I am not sure of the note. .. Thanks for the draw!

  • Deanna G. says:

    Musk was my first love, too. I remember buying Jovan’s White Musk for women when I was like 15. It was my first “grown-up” perfume.

  • lovethescents says:

    Parfum d’Empire had me at Osmanthe Interdit. It was my first osmanthus love, and still is, to this day! thank you for this wonderful draw!

  • Lean S says:

    Rose was my first perfume note love. I remember smelling it in my grandmothers perfumes. Thank you!

  • Claudia says:

    Rose was my first love also, but my love for different notes has grown and my favorite PdE fragrance is Cuir Ottoman. I am definitely dying to try this one.

  • sherapop says:

    Oscar de la Renta was my first perfume love, and it was my signature scent for something like four years–I refused to wear anything else! (-;

  • Holly F. says:

    This is so exciting, I’ve been VERY interested in trying Musc Tonkin. My first fragrance “love” note was vanilla, and I have since experimented with it in many different incarnations. Musk is my current fascination, and I’m absolutely taken with the descriptions I’ve read of Musc Tonkin. I would love the chance to try this!

  • CCC says:

    I really don’t remember being in love with a note. I was more interested in the whole composition.
    I love 75% of the PdE. So many so good!
    My latest fav is Azemour . Love it!

    I can’t wait to try Musk Tonkin!

  • Akimon says:

    My first love was turpentine, the violet kind. Still looking for a scent that really has a good note like that, though there was a champa attar that came close once. I like different kinds of musks, too, especially botanical ones like ambrette seed, but I love truly animalic ones when they’re done right, as Musk Tonkin is promising to be. My favourite scent from Parfum d’Empire is Ambre Russe, a properly decadent amber.

  • Michael says:

    Amber, and particularly the Labdanum in amber was the first note I fell in love with, and still love very much to this day.

  • Amy V says:

    My first love is violets. When I was quite young my Mum gave me a little bottle of violet perfume from the chemist shop – it came with a little violet-embroidered hanky! She had been given violet perfume as a child too, and still has the tiny bottle.

  • mridula says:

    My first perfume was L’air du temps. My father gave it to me when I turned sixteen. i was too ignorant to appreciate it but looking back I love the memory. My favourite first perfume note love has to be rose. I’ve been reading about Musc Tonkin, that it is limited edition just makes it so irresistible.

  • Monica H. says:

    My first love was also violets, I remember trying to seek out all the violet scents I could and SL Iris Silver Mist is the perfect one =) I also adore musks and find it to be a note that makes me feel free to be a little sexy =P

  • harper says:

    oh, leather, definitely.
    originating in my father’s faves (starting with knize ten)
    and leading me from anteaus to cabochard to tabac blond and beyond.

  • Jeff B says:

    My first love was anything with pine or woodsy notes. I wanted to smell like a Christmas wreath. I believe Aspen was my first fragrance love. My favorite Parfum d’Empire is Ambre Russe.

  • Candice says:

    OOhhh…how fun. My first love in fragrance was vanilla. I’ve since moved on (mostly:) to much darker notes. My fave PdE is Wazamba. Thanks for the draw!!

  • mim666 says:

    Please count me in to this amazing draw! First comment appears to have been eaten. Your review made me crave this scent intensely. I adore MKK and would probably fall in love with this one!

    I love Fougere Bengale and also enjoy Equistrius, but there are many scents I have yet to try in the PdE line…

    My first love-note was vanilla; I had a vanillic scent from Claire’s and a solid from a hippie store, both around middle school. Got compliments from people on the solid of the wow, something smells great here! variety. Wore too much of the spray once and tried to scrub off in the bathroom to little effect until I used some nasty industrial soap….Kept them in my locker until the glass perfume bottle dropped and broke in the hallways–yikes!
    I stuck to hipieish solids and oils for quite a while after that, and moved on to amber and patchouli.

    I also tried musk then but while there was something appealing, the kinds I found were fairly harsh and soapy white musks and it wasn’t love—yet. Then I grew up and found grown-up musks and the rest is history!

  • Julz says:

    My first luv note was Amber … which is probably why my fave Parfum d’Empire is Ambre Russe. … Please enter me into the marvellous draw. (Thanx !)

  • RosemaryR says:

    My earliest memory of loving a note, is clearly Hibiscus, My Grandparents garden was full of them, full bloom it was pretty and it smelled really good. My favorite Parfum D’Empire is 3 Fleurs.

  • Musette says:

    My favorite note is rose (I think). But it has to be done right. My favorite Pd’Empire is Eau Suave. Big surprise there, huh?

    this is one of the most highly-anticipated releases EVAH! Even I, who am not normally a Musketeer, want to try this one!

    Thanks for the incredible opportunity!

    xoxoA

  • labelleetlabete says:

    Paradoxe by Pierre Cardin. First I had a tiny sample bottle from a set my mom got in the mail. When we travelled to Paris I saved for months to be able to go to Galleries Lafayette and pick up a full size bottle, that was 1987, it is long gone now, and it’s no longer in production. CB I hate perfum’s Fire from Heaven is a little reminiscent, but perhaps it’s just how it makes me feel.