New Niche Fragrance Review: Mona di Orio Les Nombres D’Or Violette Fumee – Mona’s Scented Memoir for Jeroen + Slave to Love Draw

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I often wonder what it would be like to have one of the perfumers I admire so much take a stab at turning my memories into a fragrance. Jeroen Oude Sogtoen the co-founder and business partner of Mona di Orio Parfums got to live my dream. As they worked closely together Mona told Jeroen that she wanted to make a fragrance just for him. Over two years Jeroen would share memories of his life and time in fashion and Mona would take it all in. Mona taught Jeroen about raw materials as he smelled many in search of the right ones to capture his memories. They were originally going to call the perfume Passion but when Jeroen told Mona the fragrance had to be a combination of violet and pipe tobacco the name changed to Violette Fumee.

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Lanesborough Hotel -Hyde Park, London

I asked Jeroen why those two things and he told me, “Violet (flower and leaf) are my link to luxury. I once stayed in the ultra luxe Lanesborough Hotel in Hyde Park London. All of the rooms, soaps, and body lotions are scented with violet. This was what luxury smells like, I thought. Mona would further educate me on violet as, an ingredient, it can be “innocent” and shy containing an underlying power or if it is overdosed it can keep you from smelling anything else. I love the contradiction and Mona set out to create a sparkling Champagne with sugared violet leaves accord for me.

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Hajenius -Amsterdam, Holland

For the pipe tobacco I wanted to capture the memory of the pipe my father smoked which I loved the smell of. To give Mona something to work with we went to one of the most beautiful cigar and tobacco stores in Amsterdam Hajenius and together we selected a beautiful mix of pipe tobacco which Mona used as inspiration. I am still surprised how she captured its essence.”

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Bryan Ferry (Photo by Perezztroika)

Once the core ingredients were in place Jeroen also gave Mona some musical influences to try and capture. He used two songs by Bryan Ferry to describe the mood he wanted Violette Fumee to have. The first song was “More Than This”, from Mr. Ferry’s Roxy Music days, which Jeroen felt “smoldered with passion”; the second song was “Slave to Love” from Mr. Ferry’s solo career which embodied  “sexy contrasts” as well as “daring to wear florals” and the “confidence” necessary to do that for a man.

Jeroen Oude Sogtoen of mona di orio parfums

Jeroen Oude Sogtoen (Photo Courtesy of Jeroen Oude Sogtoen)

Along with that beginning, over the two years of development, they would also choose to add lavender as Jeroen says, “I believe it is a wonderful scent which needs more attention. Not the usual version you find in commercial products which smells old fashioned. I wanted the version most people experience when they squeeze it fresh on their hands, herbal and floral together.” Myrrh would go in the base based on a trip to Greece when Mona and Jeroen visited a Greek Orthodox Church. Other touchstones from Jeroen’s life would include a cashmere scarf, soft suede, and opoponax resin. These are the stories of the man that Mona would distill into liquid form and create Violette Fumee.

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Violet Fumee was originally created for Jeroen’s use only but with Mme di Orio’s untimely passing away in 2011 he felt he couldn’t keep it to himself anymore and so is sharing this very personal creation with the rest of us. I make no secret of my love for violet and after speaking with Jeroen about the inspirations with which Mme di Orio had to work with to say I was waiting with anticipation would be underselling my emotion. When the bottle showed up earlier this week I immediately applied it to my skin. Right away there was freshly crushed lavender, the violet encased in tobacco smoke, and the myrrh. This is what Mme di Orio does when she is at her best as she takes the brightly familiar and adds in the deep shadows to make them transform into something wholly different.

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Mona di Orio (Photo: www.kicksmeets.nl)

Violette Fumee opens up with the smell of fresh lavender. As Jeroen mentioned this is not the lavender of laundry products this is the herbal slightly floral quality of lavender as if you have just crushed it in your hand. We have lavender growing outside our house and this is just what I experience when I pick a sprig. It is beautiful and Mme di Orio adds oakmoss to keep the opening from ever getting close to the laundry room. A beautifully luminous bergamot supplies the sparkling olfactory Champagne, Jeroen requested, to usher in the violet. As was mentioned above getting the balance right with violet is not easy and it is poised here between the introverted and extroverted forms as if on a fulcrum. Mme di Orio uses rose to preserve the delicate balance. Vetiver and sage make up the tobacco accord supporting the violet on clouds of smoke drifting in the air. It is right here where the name and the inspiration all come together in a glorious moment. Cashmeran adds the soft sweet fabric for myrrh and opoponax to attach themselves to as Violette Fumee finds a soft resting place to finish.

Violette Fumee has all day longevity and above average sillage.

violette fumee mona di orio

I have to offer my deep thanks to Jeroen not only for sharing the memories that went into inspiring Violette Fumee  but for sharing this very personal creation with the rest of us. It is another reminder of how Mme di Orio truly was operating at the peak of her abilities when she was taken away from us. Everything that makes the best of her creations stand out is on display in Violette Fumee; the use of shadow, the twist on raw ingredients, and finally the passion. Mme di Orio might be gone but we will always have Mona in our lives every time we wear one of her fantastic perfumes and Violette Fumee is right up there among her best.

Disclosure: This review was based on a sample provided by Mona di Orio Parfums.

Violette Fumee will be launched in September. Thanks again to the extraordinary generosity of Jeoren Oude Sogtoen we have three 5mL rollerball press samples to giveaway.  This is a world wide draw. To be eligible leave a comment on what the keynote would be if a perfumer was making a fragrance based on your passions or what your favorite Mona Di Orio perfume is. The draw will end on July 24, 2013.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

Editor’s note: It was Mona’s birthday this past Friday July 19 and I thought it was a neat bit of synchronicity to have this new release to wear on what would have been her 44th birthday.

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90 comments

  • What a lovely, moving account. The keynote in my hypthetical memoir would probably be real Mysore sandalwood with labdabum. And my favorite Mona di Orio perfume is probably the new Eau Absolue.

  • My favorite Mona Di Orio is Jabu. It so a heart warming opening for me. It takes me to my childhood when my mom would do my hair while I ate my bowl of Trix cereal before school. Good times.

  • My favourite Mona di Orio perfume is Vanille. It is so utterly perfect, and it makes me feel like a pirate. The keynote in my fragrance would have to be gin or tea

  • Without a doubt, my keynote would be peony: the full, round, white variety streaked with a random trace of crimson on one or two petals. They smell less citrusy and bright than the pink and magenta peonies, with a faint, fresh rosey smell. It’s fun to think about what the other notes would be, and how they would unfold, and interact with one another. Joeren really did get a precious gift, and it was so generous of him to share it with everyone. It really sounds gorgeous.

  • My keynote would have to be vanilla. My favorite Mona di Orio scent is Vanille. This is an exciting draw! thanks

  • My keynote would probably be tonka, or perhaps a tea note. Thanks for the lovely draw!

  • My keynotes would have to be Heliotrope and chaparral with a beautiful heartnote patchouli. I am a fan of Mona’s creations, so difficult to choose a favorite for me but I do adore Nuit Noire and find it brings balance when I’m off kilter.

  • Carol Sasich says:

    Beautifu review – it sounds like my favorite will be Violet Fumee…I would love a bespoke fragrance centered around orris root . It’s dual nature warm/powdery and cool/minerally always fascinates me .

  • Thank you for a wonderful story to go with what sounds like a beautiful perfume. If I had a keynote for a perfume, it would jasmine.

  • Monica H. says:

    My keynote would be Osmanthus or Linden… and my favorite MdO so far is her Oud because there has simply been nothing else like it!!

  • The note that represents me more than anything else is orris. I am an orris maniac. Favorite from the collection so far has been Vetiver.

  • Heather F says:

    I love so many of Mona di Orio’s perfumes, particularly Ambre, Oud, and Vanille (though Nuit Noire is up there too). My keynote would be labdanum. Thanks as ever for the draw!

  • Chapeau Clack says:

    My memoir scent would revolve around soft leather. A sumptuos floral leather chypre, that’s what it would be!

    Thanks for the wonderful article and the giveway.

  • What a beautiful review. My keynote would be copal, both the resin and the smoke. Thank you for the draw.

  • leathermountain says:

    I love Eau Absolue. It’s the only one of Mona di Orio’s perfumes I have had the chance to smell so far. It’s completely different from everything else I’ve smelled, and I see what you mean about “she takes the brightly familiar and adds in the deep shadows to make them transform into something wholly different” — in this case, transforming the Eau.

    I feel connected to iris, another note with fulcrum potential.

  • My hypothetical fragrant creation would have to be based on gardenia. It evokes such happiness when I smell it. Thank you for this exciting draw!

  • Oh wow the perfume and the process sound so neat!

    Mine would be based around either honeysuckle or jasmine. Maybe leather, but I think that would be more the rest of my family. A touch of it in the background would be nice, because there was so much of it in our house growing up.

  • Dubaiscents says:

    I would want my scent to be based on frankincense and iris and leather. I love so many of Mona’s scents (and can’t wait to smell this one!) but, I think my first, Oiro, is my favorite.

  • Beautiful article!
    Hard to chose just one favorite among Mona’s creations but I guess it’s Lux (for now)
    My keynote would be leather.

  • It’s hard to pick a keynote, but I’d probably go with vetiver for the versatility. Originally when trying the vetiver staples I found it cold and uninteresting, but since I’ve found lovely creations less literal.
    My favourite Mona di Orio is Vanille, the combination with bitter orange works very well.

  • My favourite Mona di Orio is Nuit Noire, it is from her first collection of perfumes and I hope they will start selling it soon!!

  • My favorite Mona Di Orio perfume is Les Nombres d`Or Vanille.
    Thank you for the draw!

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    for me the keynote would be suede if a fragrance was being made for me…kind of plumy and dry suede

  • alexander says:

    I like perfumes containing strong basenotes Oud,frankincense,leather,oakmoss,patchouly,myrh.But when a fragrance is done brilliantly I just can’t resist.
    I would be perfectly happy with Mona’s Oud it is exceptional and I love it.

  • My favorite Mona di Orio is Vanille. It’s such a wonderful journey… As for the keynote in a perfume that’s build around my passions, it’s hard to pick just one. I have to go with at least three keynotes: olibanum, pipe tobacco and rose.

  • Someotherspring says:

    My keynote would be Ylang-Ylang, because it’s so lush-and I want a lush life! It would probably be tempered with something crisp like white grapefruit and/or basil. Thanks for this draw and the wonderful story of the making of this fragrance.

  • My favorite scent from Mona di Orio is Vanille. If I had to chose a note i would be oakmoss!

  • What a heartbreakingly sweet story..Mona Di Orio was an artist in the truest sense of the work… Many many thanks to Jeroen Oude Sogtoen to let her live on through her work… My favourite from many favourites would be the extremely underrated Amytis…
    Thank you for this draw!

  • PatriciaC says:

    I’m thinking iris would have to be a base not-mostly all the scents i like have iris in them.I also love vilet as well- Thanks for the drawing sounds wonderful!

  • FearsMice says:

    A perfume based on my passions would have to include a rich, spicy carnation! Thanks for the draw.

  • Vanille from MdO is my favourtie. It transports me to a place of intrigue and mystery. A keynote which represents me is Vanilla. I find myself gravitating to anything with it in it.

    Thank you for the draw!

  • Jasmine and tobacco. Morning. Smoking a cigar in Jasmine garden. No woman, no children. just cigar and subtle jasmine smell. Heaven.

    I own Oud by Mona. I was looking for this kind of smell since visiting OAE and smell something. Actually Mona made a real present for me – Oud. Everything I ever wanted from parfumes.

  • JAntoinette says:

    I have always been fond of Lux, but I don’t believe it’s still produced – a pity because I always felt it was quite underrated. My keynote? Gardenia. But then again, there is something timeless about violets.

  • My keynote is Lime or Amber. Love the both of them. My favorite fragrance in her line is the Vanille. Though all of her fragrances are off the charts great. Would love to try this new fragrance. Thank you.

  • Iris would be the note most embraced in my own fragrance. It can be so many personalities, but always my favorite.

  • Lavender, violet, myrrh…wow! I love all these notes but wouldn’t have thought to put them together. I can’t wait to try this one.
    I love so many notes, but Orange blossom always makes me smile and feel happy. Just as long as it’s not soapy.

  • Thank U for the draw…
    I’ve always loved Mona’s creations…
    Among my favourite there are Chamarré, Nuit Noire, Oiro, Rose Etoile d’Hollande…
    I love roses, so If I could have a besboke fragrance I’d ask for roses, labdanum, oakmoss and patchouly.
    thanx

  • Anita Monroe says:

    My keynote would be Coriander. When I smell that I am back in my house with water views out of every window.. Since storms happened frequently, I’d want the scent of fresh rain included.

  • My favorites from MDO are OIRO and Musc.

    My keynote is Osmanthus.

    Thanks for the draw.

    ~Dawn

  • If I had to choose one keynote, it would be iris. Ask me in a month or two, and my preference would probably change. My favorite Mona creation is Oud.

  • Michelle U says:

    The keynote would be fig! 😀

    Thank you for this wonderful review and for the draw!

    Wish you all the best!

  • The keynote would be iris.
    Great article, and also a little sad because of the passing of such a wonderful artist. Thanks for the draw.

  • until very recently i would have said the key note for any fragrance i would have designed would have to be some type of wood — probably the scent of jeffrey pine, trunk and brown needles (still a favorite.)
    but since i discovered it this year, it is now violet (and yes, leaf and flower): i love most original jolie madame (leather and violet), and the discontinued lavande velours (lavender and violet).

    and so i will have to get a bottle of this new one, once it’s available. it just sounds perfectly up my alley.

  • My keynote is leather!

    My favourite Mona’s fragrance is her Oud, simply fantastic! 😉

  • I really can’t wait or the new perfume! My favorite Mona’s perfume is Vanille, trully amazing and Oud is a very close second. If there was a perfume made for me I would definately choose Elemi as the keynote, for some reason I am very drawn to irs scent! Thank you so much for sharing this story with us and for the draw!

  • ringthing says:

    My keynote would be incense, and my favorite Mona Di Orio perfume is Vanille, although I haven’t tried Cuir and I think I would love it. Thanks so much for the special draw.

  • I’ve only tried Eau Absolue, but liked it very much. Gorgeous fragrance.

    My keynote would be iris or vetiver…I’m a bit crazy for both at the moment!

  • I am still exploring Mona’s work, but own and love both the Vanilla and Cuir in the Les Nombres d’Or series.

    My keynote might be linden; it is a very transporting scent to me although I can’t relate it to anything in particular in my life.

  • This does sound intriguing. My keynote would probably be ginger, since I am addicted to the stuff. Though hyacinth could give it a close run.

    Happy birthday, Mona. You are very much missed.

  • Mona di Orio is one of my favorite perfumers, and it would be hard to choose one favorite from her line. If I had to, it would probably be the oud – or the vanilla, or the tuberose …

    I would love to try Violette Fumee. Thank you for the drawing!

  • My keynote would be vanilla or immortelle.
    And my favorite perfume of her line is Vanilla (surprise surprise.)

    Thanks for the draw.

  • Mona’s Oud is a marvel, and probably my favorite. I think about her often, and would love to try Violette Fumee. I live in the U.S. and thanks very much for the draw!

  • My keynote would be Rose. I love all of Mona’s creations but her Rose makes everything right in my world. I would love to be able to try Violette Fumee! Thank you so much for the opportunity.

  • This sounds like a beautiful fragrance and a wonderful addition to Mona’s legacy. I would love to smell this as I haven’t had the opportunity to smell any of Mona Di Orio’s creations. I think if I had to pick a note I would choose anise. Honeysuckle and lilac make me smile, too.

  • The story behind the perfume is very touching and the depth to which note was selected is amazing. Of the notes that were selected, I can only imagine how good this one really is.

    If I was create a fragrance to reflect my life it would have to be amber for warmth qualities and guaiac wood for resilience.

  • What a nice review. I am a huge fan of di Orio’s work and look forward to this one.

    Thanks for the draw opportunity. My favorite Mona di Orio scent is still the luminous Jabu.

  • Laurentiu says:

    I really like vanilla and I see that vanilla is already present in a Mona di Orio fragrance, so I suppose that I have to try that one.

    Thanks!

  • thanks for the generous giveaway
    I would love a perfume based on tomato leaf
    Vanille is my favorite of Mona’s fragrances I tried till now

  • My keynotes are leather and jasmine, and my favorite Mona’s creation is Cuir (and I own a full bottle, wonderful)
    Thank you for the draw!

  • What a talent. What a loss. She was a bright star and I think her work speaks for itself.
    I havent’t tried all her creations, but it’s a high priority for me. I think her scents are highly recognisable.
    And Jeroen got a breathtakingly beautiful gift. Often the bittersweet memories are the deepest and most precious.

    As I mentioned, there are some scents from her which I have to try yet, but from the ones I have tried, I liked Chamarre the most.

    What would be my keynote, based on my passions? I would pick one, that matches my passions with my favorite ingridients. So it would be opopanax.

  • What a generous giveway – it’s worldwide, fortunately!
    My keynote is musk, but I am mad about violet and rose, as well. Rspectively, my favorites from Mona’s line are Musk and Rose Etoile d’Hollande. I loved Chamarre but it’s sadly discontinued now.

  • My favorite Mona di Orio perfume is Rose Etoile de Hollande. Mona will be with us always through the wonderful perfumes she has created. Violette Fumee sounds excellent. My keynote would be linden because I love this note.

  • My favourite is Mona’s Oud. I never thought osmanthus and oud could go so well together.

  • What a beautiful tribute! It showcases her amazing talent, as well as her generous heart. I’d love to be able to try this fragrance.

    My favorite of Mona’s scents is Rose Etoile de Hollande, and my keynote would be oakmoss.

  • My keynote would be heliotrope. I love Mona’s Musc. Thanks so much for the draw!

  • Wow! This perfume sure is a treasure. How nice it can be shared and appreciated more widely! Pipe tobacco sure appeals a lot to me… it is
    such a lovely smell. I wonder what my keynote would be… Hay always enchants me so let’s go for hay!

  • My keynote would have to be lavender. I just love the smell, makes me so happy.

    Thanks for the draw!

  • What beautiful memories and beautiful perfume. Such a sad thing for Mona to be gone. I need to try more of her legacy of scents.

    My keynote would be incense. I have always loved burning incense and incense perfumes – the complexity of smell, the holy and sacred, and it lingers on touching everything. I lost my baby a few months ago, and I like to think that he touches everything about me, like incense, his brief presence on earth sacred and memorable, forever in my heart.

  • Beautiful,beautiful article!My favourite of Mona’s work is Vanille,closely followed by Oud and Rose Etoile de Hollande.My key note would be iris!Thanks for this!

  • My favorite fragrance by Mona is Oud. It’s a hard choice because I love each and every one of them. I would choose neroli as my keynote. Thanks for such a generous draw!

  • Les Nombres d`Or Vanille, definitely my favorite, what a beautiful vanilla scent, not cloying like some tend to be

  • I hope she can hear our birthday wishes from the great beyond. I love Les Nombres d`Or Vanille.

  • I absolutely love the smell of coffee! Any coffee-based scents are heavenly to me. Thanks for the draw.

  • I know the draw is over but it was crazy that while I was reading this I was wearing my “signature” combo of violet and smoky tobacco accords!