New Niche Fragrance Review: Memo Paris Luxor Oud + Waft Like an Egyptian Draw

King Tut is lavishing his wife Angkhesanamum with perfume

When it comes to how a specific ancient civilization smelled it is arguably Ancient Egypt which might have been the most pleasantly fragrant historical period. It is often cited as where perfumery began. So when perfume houses touch on Ancient Egypt as their inspiration they usually focus on the richer set of ingredients on the perfumer’s palette. Memo Paris, as part of their Les Echappees series of fragrances, have sent their perfumer Alienor Massenet back in time to create Luxor Oud so we can all waft like an Egyptian.

 ancient painting of a Pharaoh in the Valley of Kings near Luxor

I was excited to try Luxor Oud because the last time Mme Massenet used oud it was in the spectacular Shams for Memo, also. In Shams she found a series of spicy notes which tamed the rough beast that is oud in perfumery. If she caged the beast in Shams, for Luxor Oud she chooses to put it on a leash. The oud in Luxor Oud is the foundation of the pyramid Mme Massenet creates but despite the name it is not the whole story of Luxor Oud. Luxor Oud feels like something a Pharaoh would wear, a honeyed balm of a perfume which imparts an opulence that just never quits.

George Owen Wynne Apperley:A Dancer in Ancient Egypt

Mme Massenet opens Luxor Oud with a mix of ripe berries and mandarin. You might look at that and expect something overtly sweet but in the case of Luxor Oud it instead has a much more subtle fruity character and it plays very well into the rich honey accord that slowly oozes over everything. There is also a rich rose that lingers just under the surface of the honey. This is not rose as the focal point this is rose as grace note. The honey is what dominates the heart of Luxor Oud. As the honey accord begins to decay a couple of the components, cypriol and cistus, create another accord that of an astringent balm. The presence of the oud, along with patchouli, makes up the base of Luxor Oud. This is where the oud has the chance to exercise a little more of its forceful nature; having patchouli as counterbalance keeps it from being too overbearing.

Luxor Oud has outstanding longevity and above average sillage. I received two compliments while wearing this at work one day. It really is a crowd-pleaser.

Louis Armstrong playing the trumpet for his wife Lucille at Giza 1961 

Every time I think there is nothing more under the sun which will illuminate oud, a talented perfumer reminds me how wrong I am. Mme Massenet, as she did with Shams, shows her mastery of this ubiquitous note. Her choice of how she presents it and surrounds it makes it something special. In Luxor Oud she uses it as the support for everything she wants to accomplish. For me, this is the best oud of 2012.

Disclosure: This review was based on a bottle supplied by Memo Paris.

Thanks to the generosity of Memo Paris I will make a  2.5mL decant of Luxor Oud to giveaway  before its launch  overseas in November. To be eligible go visit the Memo Paris website and let us know which fragrance you think would be your favorite. We will draw one winner on October 17, 2012.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

-Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

 Art direction- Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief

The Bangles- "Walk like an Egyptian"

Editor's Note: In an email exchange with John Molloy, I told him I wasn't fond of Oud fragrances. He replied "Luxor Oud is about sensuality and if you don't love it I will buy you dinner in New York". Looks like dinner is on me and I will be wafting like an Egyptian. -Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief

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67 comments

  • I want to waft like an Egyptian with Luxor oud and burn with Moon Fever the leather side of Vetiver
    Oh puleeez let me win this
    Cool picture of Louis Armstrong btw

  • Amberosmanthus says:

    I think I would love Memo Shams, but Luxor Oud is very tempting. Who could resist your choice as best oud of 2012? That is pretty high praise. Thanks for the draw.

  • Luxor Oud sounds amazing. Moon Fever sounds like one for me. Quartier Latin is a favorite of mine!

  • Either Sundance or Janat. I didn’t realize they had such a great sample program! Will be ordering some…

  • An oud in the house of the sun-Shams shams oud sounds divine but Luxor Oud will be heaven and the Egyptians certainly knew how to prepare for that. Luxor the town is very magical if not overrun by tourists but pick the hour and you can imagine the history unfolding before your eyes. Lovely review, thanks

  • I was just on the Memo Paris site a couple of weeks ago and was taken somewhere else by Shams. I was especially fond of the imagery created by Granada and would love to smell Siwa, since it has been a personal inspiration as well. The whole collection is beautiful.

  • My fav from this line are Manoa and Shams. I plan to sample Luxor Oud as soon as possible. The composition sounds interesting and little bit unusual.

  • I think I would fall in love with Manoa. However, I also believe, (since reading this article), that Luxor Oud may also be a favourite. Honey sounds delish.

    Thanks for the draw!

  • Thank you for the draw! Your review of Shams made me think that this wo!ld be my favourite Memo fragrance1

  • Well I think I’d like them all with Shams a bit ahead! Would love to smell Luxor oud too !! Thank you for the draw!

  • It’s impossible to choose just one as they all sound fantastic! but since I have found a new love in osmanthus I would love Inle. The bottles are gorgeous! Wouldn’t it be great to have seven of them adorning one’s dresser 🙂 ??

  • just breathe says:

    yet another line I should explore…. It’s great that they sell samples.I like Moon Fever for both the name and the notes (love citrus 🙂 !) thanks for the draw!

  • I own and love Shams, but Luxor Oud is surely going to appeal to me, as I am a lover of the oud note!

  • I would like to try them all! They sound sooo fabulous!
    I would start with Inle, an osmanthus and tea perfume,
    and then…

  • Memo looks line a line I will have to explore further.

    I like the sound of Inle, but best oud of 2012…what can I say?
    Thanks!

  • Luxor Oud sounds wonderful! Thank you for the review.

    From the website, I’m most intrigued by Moon Fever or Shams Shams Oud.

  • “…honeyed balm of a perfume”
    I think my favorite might be Luxor Oud!
    From the website: Shams Oud, Manoa, Moon Fever, and Granada all look amazing and very ‘me’, probably in that order.

  • I already kno I luv Shams (utterly gorgeous), Moon Fever & the lovely Manoa, from the collection. (Which are, by the way, ALL excellent !) … However I have a feeling I’m going to adore their new release Quartier Latin (as I used to luv Kretek Ciggies). – But I’m not yet completely tired out of oud, so very much looking forward to Memo’s version. Luxor Oud might just become my top fave one. …
    Thanx for the draw ! … (& if I am lucky enough to win, let’s hope I won’t be late redeeming once again.) 😉 *sigh*

  • Manoa is currently my favorite from the Memo line but your description of Luxor Oud made it sounds like it can be my next favorite =)

  • According to the notes, I’d like to try Granada. Jasmine and orange blossom is always a good combination for me.

    Thanks!

  • I’m excited you found a new Oud! The honey/Oud combo does sound delicious. I too want to “waft” like an Egyptiian. Lol
    Manoa also sounds great.

  • I cannot pick just one. Manoa, Shams shams Oud and Inle are calling my name. Thanks for the draw.

  • Memo Manoa is the one that has thus far captured my imagination, but Luxor Oud sounds FABULOUS. Thanks for the draw!

  • Inle, “an osmanthus submerged in a cloud of tea,” would be my scent of choice from the memo line, but frankly, I’d probably wear and love them all. Thanks for the draw!

  • Shams Shams Oud and Siwa sounds great :D. Siwa as I’m a sucker for vanilla perfumes, while Shams Shams Oud as I have not smell most of the ingredients.

  • Of the three listed on the website, Granada sounds like it might be the best. The “popcorn” in Siwa would be a dealbreaker for me, since I don’t want to smell like popcorn in any form. I do like oud, so Luxor Oud would probably be preferable to any of the others.