New Niche Fragrance Review: Maria Candida Gentile Noir Tropical and Finisterre + Sultry Jungle, Spiritual Sea Draw

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Maria Candida Gentile is a perfumer who has created a diverse body of unique, interesting, and beautiful perfumes. Her two new scents, Noir Tropical and Finisterre, are fragrances that showcase her skills as a perfumer. They are both wonderful but completely different from each other. As an artist myself, it intrigues me that Ms. Gentile can work on two such diverse projects, and not have them seem to have been birthed together. These are night and day, almost literally.

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Joan Crawford as Sadie Thompson in "Rain", 1932


Let's start with night, with Noir Tropical. When I was younger, I wanted to be able to wear vanilla extract, right out of the bottle. I think I tried it a few times, but it doesn't really last. I also remember the swoon I had the first time I opened an actual vanilla pod. There is something about the sweet, dirty, raw stuff that is so intoxicating. Ms. Gentile has captured something that I rarely smell in a vanilla perfume: the fact that vanilla comes from a plant grown in the jungle. This is earthy, sultry, and as far from a cupcake as it can get. The first aroma on skin is just like that wonderful whiff of an open bottle of extract, but then the perfume goes deep and dark, into the underbelly of the tropics. Very few fragrances actually live up to the “noir” that is getting tacked on to their names, but I can’t help but envision a twilight jungle, when colors start to grow dim, and the nocturnal animals start their love calls. Noir Tropical is a vanilla perfume like no other: no sugar, no cake, no smoke; just a touch of rummy richness but not boozy. It is a visceral vanilla, and very sexy, and evokes the jungle noir of "Rain". It has excellent waft, and good longevity.

Notes: Bergamot, almond accord, vanilla, rum

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Spirit of the Sea by Karen Hale

Finisterre, the perfume that is the day half of my comparison, was inspired by a spiritual walk that pilgrims to Santiago can add to their already long journey, which ends at the Cape of FInisterre in Spain. Dirty and exhausted, but uplifted, these pilgrims were encouraged to bathe in the sea, then burn one of their travelling garments. Even today, thousands travel to Santiago, and many continue their journey to Finisterre. Ms. Gentile has surprised me with this fragrance. I am usually a little bit hesitant about perfumes that have “marine accord” listed as the first note. However, I live by and love the sea, and have long felt a deeply spiritual connection to it. I love the actual smell of the ocean; briny, and full of the aroma of leviathans. This perfume smells like an ocean tinged with the smell of dry, hot trees along its edge. This isn’t a beach you lay out on to get tan. This is the path along the cliff; treacherous and sun-soaked. Sometimes a bit of salty spray hits your burning face and spots your limbs that have been covered in dusty fine sand. You reach Land’s End, and look out on endless deep blue water. This perfume is a perfect accompaniment to an oceanic journey, even if you are on dry land. It is not sexy and sultry, like Noir Tropical; rather, it is more energized and full of spirit. It sits close to the skin, and has very good longevity.

Marine accord, helichrysum, pine, gray amber, sandalwood

Both of these fragrances are very well crafted using a large percentage of natural materials. Ms. Gentile is a skilled perfumer, who can create perfumes that are both wearable and experiential; a rare accomplishment. I look forward to her next works.

I received my samples from Maria Candida Gentile. Noir Tropical and Finesterre are currently available at Twisted Lily in Brooklyn, NY.

Tama Blough, Senior Editor

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We have a set of samples for one lucky US reader. Please let us know which of these appeals to you, or if you have a favorite Maria Candida Gentile fragrance, and remember to state that you are in the US. Draw ends October 25, 2013.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

Editor's Note: for those of you lucky enough to be in the NYC area Maria Candida Gentile will be in town to debut her two new fragrances:

10/24 3 pm -6 pm: Personal Appearance at  Henri Bendel Fifth Ave -Special Gift with Purchase of any Maria Candida Gentile perfume

10/25 4 pm -7 pm: Personal  Appearance and US launch of her Home Fragrance line (Passeggiata Al Faro, Viaggio In Italia and Pineta Dopo La Piaggia)

Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary, 360 Atlantic Avenue, Bourem Hill, Brooklyn

Wine, lite bites Italiano and Gift With Purchase

10/26: Guest Speaker, Sniffapalooza Fall Ball luncheon – Mention CaFleureBon for a scented surprise.

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57 comments

  • I am in the US and both of these sound wonderful, Noir Tropical is calling my name. I am already a fan f some of her fragrances.

  • julesinrose says:

    I generally like anything vanilla, but I am more intrigued by Finisterre. I have yet to like any perfume with any references to air or sea. I live on the Atlantic Coast (and am in the US!) and love the scent of woods and sea, especially pine. So, Finisterre may be a “holy grail” scent for me. If so, bravo to Maria Candida Gentile! Whether I win this lovely draw or not, this will have to be a “must try!” so thanks for the post!

  • As much as I love vanilla (I always “spill” a bit on myself when baking), I really think Finisterre sounds more intriguing. I keep reading reviews of marines that actually smell pleasant and can’t seem to get my paws on any of them easily. I live in the U.S. Thank you.

  • I love the idea of a fragrance calling to mind a cliff above the ocean. Finnisterre sounds great.

  • Tama, I can’t wait to meet Maria Candida Gentile at Sniffapalooza as I have found her creations to be unique and with incredible depth. I have no doubt that these new perfumes are equally as exotic. Funny that you choose the Joan Crawford in Rain as the image for Noir Tropical… I love that movie and am imagining the sultry wet backdrop in which the movie portrayed. No need to enter me in the draw. But whoever wins, they will no doubt be very lucky!

  • Wonderful review. I am a huge fan of her fragrances. Tough to decide between the two, but I think I will go with Finnisterre. I love seeing how perfumers incorporate helichrysum into perfumes.

  • Chris Schaefer says:

    These both sound exceptional. I think that the Noir Tropical fascinates me the most but both sound delightful. I am in the US.

  • Ms Gentile is an amazing perfumer. I have been looking forward to trying her new scents. “Earthy and sultry” sound wonderful to me; Noir Tropical is beckoning.

  • Oh my, I can’t wait to try Noir Tropical.
    Sideris, followed by Hanbury, are my favorite perfumes from her line. Ms. Gentile is a lovely, gracious woman.

  • I haven’t tried any of her fragrances, but Sideris is high on my To Try list. Both of the new ones sound great, but I can’t resist the “vanilla twilight” of Noir Tropical. I’m in the US.

  • oh boy! I would love to try finesterre. not least for the shipping forecast resonance it has. but I am coming round to well-crafted aquatics, to my tremendous surprise.
    I do live in the US. my favourite mcg is also the only one I have smelled, the magnificent Burlesque.

  • It sounds like we share the same feelings about vanilla! I have been looking for that “extract” scent. I would love to try Noir Tropical! I live in the US. Thanks for the draw!

  • I would love to try Finisterre. Usually I’m not fond of marine inspired perfumes, but I know that Maria Candida Gentile doesn’t make run-of-the-mill fragrances so I’d like to try this one. I live in the U.S. Thanks for the draw.

  • Doreen Stelton says:

    Finisterre sounds amazing and I would love to try it. I am in the US. Thanks for the lovely review and the draw.

  • Lady Day is a great scent from this line. Both sound intriguing, would like to try Noir Tropical. I am in the US, thanks for the draw.

  • USA
    Thank you for these reviews and the draw! “Visceral vanilla” is a great phrase, my favorite would be Noir Tropical. Sideris has captured my imagination too.

  • I have not had the opportunity to sample any perfumes from this house yet but I would love to start. They both sound wonderful but Noir Tropical has me the most intrigued. I am in the U.S.

  • I’m in the US and have yet to try anything by Maria Candida Gentile. Noir Tropical sounds fantastic!

  • Both perfumes sound interesting…but could Noir Tropical be THE vanilla I have been searching for? Like Goldilocks and the Three Bears, some are too soft, some are too hard, but this one could be just right. I am in USA.

  • They both sound fascinating, though Noir Tropical sounds especially intruiging. I love her Sideris (and I live in the US). Thanks as ever for the draw!

  • wefadetogray says:

    Noir tropical sounds delectable. I too love the smell of raw, dense vanilla.
    I live in the US

  • Both Noir Tropical and Finnistere sound amazing, but I think I’m most intrigued by Finnistere. I normally hate any perfume with marine notes, and your description fascinates me enough to want to try this. I am currently loving Maria’s Cinabre perfume, which is a very different, beautiful rose. I live in the US. Thank you for the draw! 🙂

  • helical gnome says:

    I am in the US
    I think Noir Tropical sounds perfect. Whats not to love about vanilla, rum, almond and bergamot.

  • These both sound nice, but Noir Tropical sounds more like something I would enjoy. Thanks for the chance and I live in the U.S.

  • Both of these perfumes sound wonderful! I think I would really enjoy the not-so-sweet vanilla in Noir Tropical, so I think I might like that one the best.

  • As a man some would say that I am not supposed to wear vanilla but the mostly natural “Noir Tropical” sounds wonderful via the description.

  • Darn you Tama! After about 100 years of wearing and collecting perfumes, I decided I have more than I’ll ever use up and so have pretty much stopped buying and stopped reading blogs. But you keep showing up on my FB wall, and I always like what I read, so here I am! You’re bookmarked.

    BTW, these both sound wonderful – not a bit of white musk in sight! Love it!!

  • My favorite Maria Candida Gentile is Burlesque. Noir Tropical sounds gorgeous! Thanks for the wonderful reviews. I’m in the U.S.

  • Elizabeth T. says:

    Finisterre sounds lovely, and I live in the US. I have not had a chance to try anything from this line, but have heard great things so hope to soon!

  • My favorite Maria Candida is Lady Day. I am more drawn to Noir Tropical, but you have made Finisterre sound very interesting, Tama. Thanks for the descriptions and the draw. I am in the US

  • Noir Tropical sounds amazing.I’m always on the lookout for a new tropical scent.I’m in the US.Thanks for the draw!

  • Both of the above fragrances are appealing but Noir Tropical sounds so great. I love “Gentile” the basil is wonderful and the smoky trail of the vetiver is supreme.
    I’m in the USA.

  • Wow. Yeah, I really need to try both of these; Noir Tropical sounds slightly more “me” as you describe it, but Finisterre sounds pretty amazing as well. I’m in the US; thanks for the draw!

  • I live in the US.
    I have been looking for a ‘sea’ scent, and would love to try Finesterre.
    Thanks for the draw

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    i feel more intrigued by noir tropical which seems like a boozy vanilla..i am in the state

  • USA…Noir Tropical…I want a sexy vanilla for the winter…the oic of Joan Crawford is AWESOME! Need to see that movie.