Maria Candida Gentile is a perfumer who has created a diverse body of unique, interesting, and beautiful perfumes. Her two new scents, Noir Tropical and Finisterre, are fragrances that showcase her skills as a perfumer. They are both wonderful but completely different from each other. As an artist myself, it intrigues me that Ms. Gentile can work on two such diverse projects, and not have them seem to have been birthed together. These are night and day, almost literally.
Joan Crawford as Sadie Thompson in "Rain", 1932
Let's start with night, with Noir Tropical. When I was younger, I wanted to be able to wear vanilla extract, right out of the bottle. I think I tried it a few times, but it doesn't really last. I also remember the swoon I had the first time I opened an actual vanilla pod. There is something about the sweet, dirty, raw stuff that is so intoxicating. Ms. Gentile has captured something that I rarely smell in a vanilla perfume: the fact that vanilla comes from a plant grown in the jungle. This is earthy, sultry, and as far from a cupcake as it can get. The first aroma on skin is just like that wonderful whiff of an open bottle of extract, but then the perfume goes deep and dark, into the underbelly of the tropics. Very few fragrances actually live up to the “noir” that is getting tacked on to their names, but I can’t help but envision a twilight jungle, when colors start to grow dim, and the nocturnal animals start their love calls. Noir Tropical is a vanilla perfume like no other: no sugar, no cake, no smoke; just a touch of rummy richness but not boozy. It is a visceral vanilla, and very sexy, and evokes the jungle noir of "Rain". It has excellent waft, and good longevity.
Notes: Bergamot, almond accord, vanilla, rum
Spirit of the Sea by Karen Hale
Finisterre, the perfume that is the day half of my comparison, was inspired by a spiritual walk that pilgrims to Santiago can add to their already long journey, which ends at the Cape of FInisterre in Spain. Dirty and exhausted, but uplifted, these pilgrims were encouraged to bathe in the sea, then burn one of their travelling garments. Even today, thousands travel to Santiago, and many continue their journey to Finisterre. Ms. Gentile has surprised me with this fragrance. I am usually a little bit hesitant about perfumes that have “marine accord” listed as the first note. However, I live by and love the sea, and have long felt a deeply spiritual connection to it. I love the actual smell of the ocean; briny, and full of the aroma of leviathans. This perfume smells like an ocean tinged with the smell of dry, hot trees along its edge. This isn’t a beach you lay out on to get tan. This is the path along the cliff; treacherous and sun-soaked. Sometimes a bit of salty spray hits your burning face and spots your limbs that have been covered in dusty fine sand. You reach Land’s End, and look out on endless deep blue water. This perfume is a perfect accompaniment to an oceanic journey, even if you are on dry land. It is not sexy and sultry, like Noir Tropical; rather, it is more energized and full of spirit. It sits close to the skin, and has very good longevity.
Marine accord, helichrysum, pine, gray amber, sandalwood
Both of these fragrances are very well crafted using a large percentage of natural materials. Ms. Gentile is a skilled perfumer, who can create perfumes that are both wearable and experiential; a rare accomplishment. I look forward to her next works.
I received my samples from Maria Candida Gentile. Noir Tropical and Finesterre are currently available at Twisted Lily in Brooklyn, NY.
Tama Blough, Senior Editor
We have a set of samples for one lucky US reader. Please let us know which of these appeals to you, or if you have a favorite Maria Candida Gentile fragrance, and remember to state that you are in the US. Draw ends October 25, 2013.
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.
Editor's Note: for those of you lucky enough to be in the NYC area Maria Candida Gentile will be in town to debut her two new fragrances:
10/24 3 pm -6 pm: Personal Appearance at Henri Bendel Fifth Ave -Special Gift with Purchase of any Maria Candida Gentile perfume
10/25 4 pm -7 pm: Personal Appearance and US launch of her Home Fragrance line (Passeggiata Al Faro, Viaggio In Italia and Pineta Dopo La Piaggia)
Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary, 360 Atlantic Avenue, Bourem Hill, Brooklyn
Wine, lite bites Italiano and Gift With Purchase
10/26: Guest Speaker, Sniffapalooza Fall Ball luncheon – Mention CaFleureBon for a scented surprise.