New Niche Fragrance Review: DSH Perfumes Arome d’Egypte + Ancient Occult Eternal Draw

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz is one of the most prolific perfumers out there. What makes her scents so unbelievably amazing is that they are not carbon copies of one another, or flankers. She has taken us through the ages, across Italy and the Mediterranean then introduced us to historical figures with her perfumes; now she’s taking us back in time to the ancient land of Kemet (Egypt). This perfumer, in my opinion, has a true gift. I can think of very few others who could take 46 notes (4 being botanical accord blends) and create something as beautiful as her Outlaw Perfume Mata Hari. A few other companies have tried to capture the beauty of the ancient land of the Pharaohs or the dry desert-like austerity and enticing opulence of this era. Dawn has done it flawlessly (and also done her research and homework).


Arome d’Egypte is an all-natural eau de perfume constructed around spikenard (nardostachys grandiflora). Spikenard (or “nard”) is an aromatic mentioned multiple times in the Bible; in both the Old and New Testaments. It has been used in the compounding of sacred incense for centuries before the birth of Christ; and was used, after his death, in the sacred temples (both first and second) in Jerusalem.  Nard is used in various ways in Ayurvedic healing, the recipes of Apicius in ancient Rome and was a luxury in ancient Egypt. It is from a plant in the valerian family and grows in the Himalayas in Nepal, India and China at altitudes of 9,000 to 15,000 feet. It was this perfumed oil that Lazarus’ sister used to anoint the feet of Jesus. The essential oil of spikenard is used usually as a base note in perfumes and has an earthy, almost musty, smell with hints of balsamic green. Here, Dawn has elevated it to the heart of the scent and created a glorious fragrance.


When I think of ancient Egypt, I think of warm resins (frankincense, labdanum, etc.) and also sweet dry flowers, the thick and lush annual fertility of the Nile River against a stark desert background. Sweet swirling incense and magical potions brewed by sorcerers and necromancer’s dark concoctions spring to mind also, or the billowing sails of Cleopatra’s barge perfumed with floral essential oils. Upon applying this magical philter, I am struck, almost instantly, with its richness and its depth of character. It takes me a few minutes (and repeated wrist sniffs) to parse exactly what is going on. The initial opening (most likely due to the alcohol medium reacting with top notes of bitter cassia and woody spicy cinnamon bark) resembles a fine cognac with its intoxicating vapors.

 

As it begins to settle, a bit, it truly becomes something that smells altogether ancient; only in the most enticing and elegant way. Spikenard, as I mentioned earlier, can be musty and rather off-putting…even dirty-bordering on “nasty”. Here, however, it is accented (and smoothed) with Australian sandalwood and balanced with old-fashioned rose (rose centifolia) and jasmine grandiflorum. The combination of these notes makes me feel as if I have been allowed to open an actual wooden box from a museum exhibit that smells of centuries old aromatics, dried flowers and very smooth and aged wood, still somehow magically preserved. The oldest known bottles of perfume (discovered in Sumerian archaeological digs, dating back over six thousand years) must have smelled something like this, when they were opened!


The finish on this is, truly, an embarrassment of riches. Golden amber raises its voice, slightly, above a chorus of incense resins as they all sing in harmony. Myrrh gum, olibanum (frankincense), labdanum and tolu balsam engage each other in such a way as to truly create something that would, if burned, most certainly catch the noses of the Gods. Exotic and soul-stirring, yet slightly medicinal and camphorous, while never getting overpowering this dry down surrounds and comforts you. The woody musky touch of ambrette seeds and cedar from the Atlas Mountains support this structure and keep it from becoming too sweet or too resinous. Arome d’Egypte, at least for me, truly captures the magic, the mystery and the timelessness of this era…in a perfume. What could be better? Here is a most excellent fragrance choice for the cooler upcoming autumn days that perfumes your space without annoying others, who may not necessarily enjoy rich darker, more oriental, incense fragrances.


Dawn describes this scent with three words: ancient, occult and immortal. I concur. It brings the qualities of spikenard: meditative calm, sharp herbaceous facets together with the “feeling” of ancient perfumes and does so with a modern natural flair while mirroring the opulence of the French perfume tradition. I can just imagine someone like Hatshepsut, Imhotep or Nefertiti dabbing this scent on, from a glazed clay jar, and swooning at its beauty. Sillage: very close. Longevity: above average.


Disclosure: Review based on a mini perfume sent to me by DSH for review.   

Thanks to Dawn Spencer Hurwitz and DSH Perfumes we have a 5mL bottle of the pure perfume version of Arome d’Egypte to giveaway. To be eligible leave a comment on your favorite Egyptian or your favorite DSH fragrance. We will draw one winner on October 6, 2012.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

John Reasinger, Editor

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74 comments

  • My favoirte Egyptian is Hatchepsut, 1508–1458 BC she was one of the most succesful pharoahs. She inaugurated a long peaceful eraand looked swell in a a beard.

  • favorite dsh: prana.

    dawn, do you still make this?
    i’ve always loved it,
    and it was the first time anyone ever used oud that i know of.
    many years ago now.
    and i mean: many.
    (did i say many?
    i meant: MANY.)
    hard to believe,
    but that was a time oud was a word few had ever heard —
    except perhaps in connection with a musical instrument.

    ha!

  • DSH Inner Sanctum is my very favorite dark rose. I love it. Thanks for the draw, I think Dawn’s a genius.

  • My favorite Egyptian goddess is Isis; if I have to pick a real person my vote goes to Akhenaten–what a radical that guy was! Thanks for the draw!

  • The words Arome D’Egypte conjure up such a sense of mystery and exoticism.
    I love ancient Egypt, and my favourite Egyptian has to be Nefertiti. If only that statue could talk…
    Thanks for the review

  • I think I also have to go with Nefertiti as my favorite Egyptian. This perfume sounds amazing- I have never smelled Spikenard, and it was interesting to learn a little bit about it through the review! Thank you for the draw, as always.

  • Omar Sharif could count as one of my favorite Egyptians!
    As for DSH, the expansive Cimabue is a favorite.

  • My favorite Egyptian scent would have to be Mermade Magickal Arts Kyphi incense. Although it is not a liquid perfume, the rich complexity, and stunning nuance they put into this rare art transports me to the Nile more deeply than any other perfume I’ve encountered.

  • I would love to try Arome d’Egypte. It sounds wonderful. My favorite Egyptian is Cleopatra.

  • Favourite DSH is Pandora followed closely by the outlaw, Mata Hari. Arome d”Egypte sounds fascinating.

  • When I was a young teenager I became fascinated with Toutankhamon, as I grew older I became more interested in his dad: Akhenaton!
    By the way, I wonder what other perfumes contain spikenard? Any idea, anyone??! I’ve heard of Eau de Jatamansi by L’Artisan and I’ve already tried Rêve Etoilé by Shantara… Any other one?

  • I have so many favorites from Dawn’s line. Right now I’m loving my coffret of perfumes from the YSL collective she did.

  • Apart from the pyramids which is obvious I’d say Cleopatra and the Sphinx!! Thank you for the draw!

  • I’ve tried only Nourouz, Kohl Gris and Winter White by DSH. They are all well rounded but Nouruoz is the one I loved!

  • I adore DSH scents and my absolute favourites would be the serene Celadon and the comforting Cimabue…I think Dawn has done justice to Arome d’Egypte;.My favourite Egyptian would be the Roman Egyptian era female astronomer aand philosopher Hypatia..Thank you for the draw..

  • This sounds great – I want to open a box containing “an embarrassment of riches”!
    I love Cimabue. Omar Sharif was amazing, I didn’t realize he was Egyptian until reading the other posts.

  • I have not tried her line, but you got me with
    “an embarrassment of riches”!!!!
    I would have to choose Cleopatra.
    Thanks for the draw!

  • When I was 8, I discovered Howard Carter and the Tutankhamun exhibition in the British Museum-it started a lifelong passion for all things ancient. Thanks for the draw!

  • This sounds like an absolute must have!
    I am not familiar with DSH scents yet so can’t comment on that but my favourite Egyptian is Nefertiti

  • Akhenaton is my favorite egyptian. An idealist pharaoh and husband to Nefertiti.
    I am so curious about this! To me the musty aspect of nard is far worse than say patchouli or other potentially musty notes. It smells almost of fish! The drydown though smells of musk, fruit and herbal tea. Strange right?

  • I haven’t tried any of DSH creations yet, but I think have to order samples right away! Arome d’Egypte seems to be exactly the kind of perfume I adore!
    Thanks for the great review, and for the draw!

  • My favorite Egyptian is Miral al-Tahawy, the author of a lovely slim volume called “The Tent.” Thanks for the draw!

  • My favorite Egyptian is Omar Sharif!!! An amazing bridge player! My favorite DSH is Xander 😀 My favorite DSH PERFUME is Cimabue.

    Thanks for the draw!

    xoxoxoA

  • My favorite DSH is Pandora, an AWESOME spicy leather, a gem from the past, now.
    Thank your for the draw!

  • What a wonderful opp and great review, John. One of my favorite DSH perfumes is Antiu, from her earlier Egyptian series. It’s a wonderful green almond scent.

    Thanks again for this draw.

  • DSH favorties: I like Fresh Ginger, Bois du Chocolat and Hippie Chic, among many others.

    Egyptians: does Moses count?
    Hatshepsut was pretty cool too.

  • Thank you, John, for your absolutely gorgeous review of Arome d’Egypte! I am truly honored. (And that fabulous image of David Bowie takes the cake!!!) ox

  • Hello, Harper! 🙂 How kind to remember the oud in Prana… 🙂 Yes, I do still make it. I hope that all is well with you… so happy to see you here at CFB! oxox Dawn

  • I hope Moses counts, because he is my favorite Egyptian 🙂
    By the way, I have never been to Egypt yet.

    Thank you for the draw!

  • My favorite DSH, that I’m looking forward to wearing around the holidays, is December, and I’d love the chance to try Arome d’Egypte!

  • My favorite Egyptian is Naguib Mahfouz. I haven’t had the chance to try any DSH scents yet… the website has so many options that make it difficult to choose just a few. Thanks for the draw.

  • Wow wonderful read..Loved Musette answer favorite DSH is Xander 😉 Mine too.. Love Vanille Botanique! What an opportunity..Thanks so much for the draw.

  • DSH wasabi shiso is my favourite. Will have to go and sample we Egyptian range of perfumes after this lowly review!