New Niche Fragrance Review: Comme des Garcons X Monocle Scent Three: Sugi + Sample Draw

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Easily two of my favorite fragrances of the years 2008 and 2009 were the collaboration between Comme des Garcons and the global affairs magazine Monocle. Prior to Comme des Garcons X Monocle Scent One: Hinoki’s release I had never heard of Monocle. The Editor-in-Chief of Monocle Tyler Brule and the longtime Creative Director at Comme des Garcons Christian Astuguevieille hired perfumer Antoine Maisondieu to helm the inaugural effort and a year later Comme des Garcons X Monocle Scent Two: Laurel arrived also signed by M. Maisondieu. I was looking forward to yearly “issues” of this fragrant magazine but since 2009 there hasn’t been a new addition. At the end of the summer I received my sample of Scent Three: Sugi, again composed by M. Maisondieu, and have completely exhausted my sample. This is the best of this very exemplary fragrance collection.

Maisondieu

Antoine Maisondieu

All of the Commes des Garcons X Monocle Scents share a common theme of sophisticated simplicity. There are so many fragrances which have as a stated goal to achieve an Eastern minimalism. Comme des Garcons X Monocle has never claimed to be one of those but almost effortlessly achieves it without overtly trying. The name Sugi comes from the Japanese name for Cryptomeria, a member of the cypress family. Like Hinoki before it that sense of a singular woody note as an almost meditational focal point is what makes this series stand apart. It starts off as a raw plank of cypress and over the hours on your skin it is elided down by time to a smooth polished plank.

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Jomon Sugi A > 2,000 yr. old tree in Yakushima, Japan

The opening of Sugi is a mix of cypress and black pepper. There is a hint of the almost mentholated grace note that comes off freshly hewn wood and the pepper is there to make that persist. The early moments are enjoyably quirky and the more I wore this the more I looked forward to my imaginary Paul Bunyan swinging his axe to level another cypress tree. Then M. Maisondieu takes a fantastic orris and like olfactory sand paper it rounds off all of the rough edges and turns Sugi into a sweetly woody middle phase. This is as simple a pairing as you could encounter but M. Maisondieu lets the orris impose its will transforming the cypress into something more refined. Now that we have a nicely elegant wood it is time to stain it dark with vetiver. The vetiver really doubles down on the wood but in an extremely understated way.

Comme des Garcons X Monocle Scent Three: Sugi has all-day longevity and deceptive sillage. It feels so light I often thought it had worn off only to find it again like a long-lost friend.

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As you read through the description above I can imagine you’re thinking this could be overwhelming but it is as light as a feather and that is the magic M. Maisondieu pulls off with Sugi. It really is the Zen-like aesthetic so often spoken of. Every time I wore Sugi it was a perfect companion for the day; a fascinating conversationalist but it also knew when to be quiet. Sugi caps off a great 2013 for Comme des Garcons and has cemented its return to the top of the niche heap.

Disclosure: This review was based on a sample provided by Comme des Garcons.

Thanks to our friends at Luckyscent we have one sample of Sugi to giveaway to one US reader. To be eligible leave a comment on your favorite Comme des Garcons fragrance and that you live in the US. The draw will end December 8, 2013.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

-Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

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34 comments

  • It is really difficult to pick just one favorite CdG fragrance. I have a few. But If I were forced to pick just one, I would say Avignon.
    I am in the US.

  • Someotherspring says:

    I’m in love with the classic Odeur 53. Both fragrance-wise and conceptually, it is a low-key STUNNER. I’m in the US.

  • Cdg is my favorite line. It’s hard to pick only one scent as a fave, but I would have to say Wood Coffee is one of my Hg scents. I love it!

    Thanks for the draw. I am in the USA.

  • The only FB of this line I own is Incense Kyoto! I may need to make it a point to explore this line next year. Great review, Mark. I’m in the US.

  • I fell in love with the new CdG Black. I wear it almost every day. I’m also a huge fan of CdG 2011 with all the bizarrely alluring industrial glue goodness. Haven’t picked this one up yet but keep sniffing every chance I can.

    In the USA!

  • I have not tried any of the CdG perfumes, but I love the sound of Sugi. If I had to choose another CdG perfume that sounded like a perfect match for me, it would be Monocle Scent One Hinoki. I am in the US.

  • Commes des Garcons was my gateway to niche perfumery and I have many loves from the many series, but CdG 2 is probably my favorite, and one I feel is overlooked sometimes. Sugi sounds like something I’d like or maybe love 🙂 I’m in the US, thanks for the draw and review.

  • wefadetogray says:

    I have tried only two Comme des Garcons perfumes: Daphne and Zagorsk and I like both of them! Zagorsk took me a bit to get used to but now I really like it.
    Thanks! And I am in the US.

  • Sounds like Sugi plays to CdG’s strengths. My fave is Hinoki on the weekend and Kyoto during the week. I live in the US.

  • My favorite is CDG Man 2, on my husband. I bought him the big bottle, and it is his second. I’m also quite fond of Kyoto. I live in the US. Thanks!

  • I like Zagorsk alot! But want to try several more in the CDG line, and Sugi will be added. I am in the US.

  • maysamassimo says:

    My favorite is Rhubarb, from the Sherbet series. It’s really delicious. I’m in the US. Thanks for the draw!

  • Chris Schaefer says:

    I have only tried Kyoto and I really enjoyed it. I would love to try Sugi.

    I am in the US. Many thanks!

  • I actually haven’t tried any CDG fragrances! Although I really want to try A New Perfume, with the crazy twisted bottle and packing tape note. Thank you for the draw – I do live in the US!

  • Odeur 53. Can’t beat it! Thanks for the opportunity to try this fragrance. Sounds great. -Joe US

  • Hinoki is my favorite, actually. I’m sure I’d love this new one! Sounds great! In the US, still.

  • helical gnome says:

    I have only tried Wonderwood and being a fan of woods in general it really spoke to me. I like it!
    I am in the USA. Thanks for the draw!

  • I would narrow my favorites to Comme 2 Man, Sequoia, and Kyoto. My mom loves the 2 Red Carnation sample I got from Luckyscent. I received an email on this fragrance and have been excited to try this. Great opportunity. I’m in the USA.

  • Sarah Lathrop says:

    I love Avignon from the incense series; it is so realistic and just a dry murmuring comfort scent. Great for winter.

    I live in the U.S. and would love to try this sample. Thanks for the give-away.

  • I don’t have a favorite from this line because I don’t have easy access to these fragrances. Maybe this will be my first? It sounds wonderful. I am in the U.S.

  • I adore the spiciness of the original Eau de Parfum…but would love to sample this one! I live in the U.S., and thanks for the draw!

  • I don’t know which is my favorite, but I think I would really enjoy Holygrace Undercover. I am in the US. Thank you for the draw.

  • Goodness, Anoine Maisondieu looks like a handsomer version of Jacques Brel (my musical idol)!

    I absolutely adore Hinoki, though I am fond of a number of other CDG fragrances, especially the incense series.