Over the last few years we have been treated to a number of different re-interpretations and re-imaginings of the venerable form of the simple cologne. Through those efforts I have been challenged, and delighted, to re-think my ideas of cologne. As a result I believe we are in a golden age of fragrance when it comes to cologne. One of the first to jump into this movement were the husband and wife team of Sylvie Ganter and Christophe Cervasel who created Atelier Cologne and the cologne absolue. For the last three years they have released eleven cologne absolues which have been some of my very favorite fragrances over that time period. For fall 2013 they are releasing the first two fragrances, in a new collection dubbed Collection Metal, called Silver Iris and Gold Leather. Perfumer Jerome Epinette is on board again to realize Mme Ganter and M. Cervasel’s vision.  

The flacons for this new collection include the titular metals infused into the glass. This gives them a reflective quality like a mirror and I think both of these new fragrances take their cues from the metals in their name as Gold Leather is warmer and Silver Iris is brighter. The contrasts between the two are striking and I found myself vacillating mightily between one or the other as my favorite. After having had them for quite a while I can say that Silver Iris is more immediately approachable and easier to love from first sniff. Gold Leather requires an opportunity to wear it before all of its pleasures are fully on display but once they are it is spectacular. Once again the team of Ganter, Cervasel, and Epinette have bottled something magical.

As I mentioned Silver Iris is an inviting friend asking you to come over and chat. When I first sprayed this on my skin it fairly shimmered off of it like a heat mirage in luminous waves. When I asked M. Epinette about Silver Iris he told me that he, “used a Kir royal accord (using black currant buds from Burgundy, where I grew up) to bring a fresh cold boost and some sparkles off of the top.” That “fresh cold” quality which I feel is as reflective as the metallic bottle is apparent throughout the development of Silver Iris.

Silver Iris opens with the “Kir Royale accord” along with the blackcurrant buds M. Epinette uses tangerine and pink pepper to create a luscious opening that just makes you want more. The heart delivers on that desire with a fantastic Iris Pallida as the centerpiece which is supported by a bit of mimosa and violet leaves. The transition from Kir Royale to opulent iris is executed flawlessly and the opening two-thirds of the development of Silver Iris feels effortless and fabulous. The base relaxes into a patchouli and white amber foundation sweetened a bit with tonka. It feels like the final warm embrace of a friend you have spent a lovely day with.

In 2011 I had the opportunity to sit with Mme Ganter at Esxence in Milan just prior to the European release of the first Atelier Cologne fragrances. While we were talking there was another vendor setting up next to her booth and it was an all-oud collection. I rolled my eyes and said something like how original and wondered aloud to her if there would be an Atelier Cologne oud fragrance. Very quickly forcefully and Taylor Swift-like Mme Ganter told me there would never, ever, ever be an oud Atelier Cologne. I laughed and realized never is a long time and in last year’s Rose Anonyme and Vetiver Fatal oud was used as a supporting note but it hardly rose to the level of keynote. Well never, ever, ever has arrived…sort of.

Gold Leather is without a doubt the most powerful Atelier Cologne to date and it is something which really pushes the limits of what cologne can be. M. Epinette told me, “In Gold Leather I imagined that an oud accord (smoky, tobacco, leathery) would marry perfectly with the cognac notes I have been using in this fragrance.”  When I asked him about Mme Ganter’s stated antipathy to oud in an Atelier Cologne he said, “Christophe felt in love with it immediately and it did not take much time for Sylvie to love it as well!!!” This provides enough evidence that one should never say never. The use of an oud accord instead of the actual raw material is what makes the core of Gold Leather so amazing.

Gold Leather opens with a boozy cognac accord consisting of bitter orange, rum, and saffron. It feels exotic and familiar at the same time. A very fast-moving heart phase of davana, eucalyptus, and plum opens the door to the stars of the show in the base. As a Senior Perfumer at Robertet M. Epinette has access to the raw material fractions they are producing and he uses two woody fractions of gaiac and cedar to form the foundation for the oud accord and leather to come together upon. By using the upper registers of gaiac and cedar without the heavier facets it allows for a slow settling into the depth that the leather and oud accords will provide. Once the oud and leather take over on my skin it is a 24 karat gold experience.

Silver Iris and Gold Leather have all-day longevity on me and above average sillage. As cologne absolues both are concentrated at 18%.

I have had the good fortune to have both of these fragrances to wear for about two months and they are really boon companions to have. They are so different that it was easy to match one or the other to my mood prior to applying them for the day. They truly feel like precious colognes I want to keep in a treasure chest with all my other precious belongings.

Disclosure: This review was based on lab samples provided by Atelier Cologne.

Thanks to our great friends at Atelier Cologne we have a very special draw as they have offered a 30 mL lab sample of both Silver Iris and Gold Leather. We are going to have two winners and this is a worldwide draw. To be eligible you will have to pick which one you want to be entered for in your comment. We will combine all of the Silver Iris entries into one pool and all of the Gold Leather entries into another and draw one winner for each. If you say you want both you will not be entered in either draw, you must make a choice. The draw ends on July 17, 2013.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

-Mark Behnke, Managing Editor