Irina Adam
Natural perfumer Irina Adam of Phoenix Botanicals creates fragrances inspired by remembrances of places, journeys and the grandeur of nature. Crafted of 100% natural, and 85% or more organic, plant essences in a base of gentle jojoba, her perfumed oils are all compounded by hand in her Brooklyn studio. They all radiate simple beauty and still contain all natural healing and aroma-therapeutic qualities. With her new collection, Ms. Adam takes us on a walk over hill and dale, to the creek in the valley bringing it all to life, including not only flora but fauna.
"Lavender Fields 1" by Lorraine Westwood
A sensation as bright as sunlight surrounds you, as Lavender Noir melts into the skin. You feel uplifted as you pass by the wildflowers growing along the trail, releasing their soft scents when brushed by a hand. A patch of wild lavender appears, as the forest ends, blowing in the breeze releasing its soft woody floral scent on a warm wind, while moss clusters blow from gnarled branches at the edge of the clearing. Wading through this thicket of purple petaled stalks, small mushrooms are crushed underfoot. The only “noir” here is the release of that earthy but fertile aroma that blends seamlessly with the fougere feeling already unfolding. Rounded out by touches of smoke, this fragrance quiets to a docile skin scent that smells verdant and clean, but not soapy or too herbal. Smelling “of” nature and not just “like” nature, this waxes slightly darker than most scents in this genre, yet it has the texture of fine lace filigree on skin. Sillage: average. Longevity: very good.
Notes: bergamot, lavender, wildflower petals, tonka bean, smoke, mushrooms & oak moss.
"At Hillard's Creek" by Jindrich (Henry) Degen
Although I love the texture violets give perfumes, the straight on intensity of the aroma can be off-putting for me. The idea of a violet soliflore had me feeling a bit nervous, yet Violet Creek is not that kind of perfume. This is not the dandy powdered Parma violet in all its pomp and ceremony; this is the softer gentler viola sororia, what I call “backyard violets”, that proliferate in the grass at the edge of the creek. A leafy green opening adds the olfactory impression of a softly meandering stream. The fresh zing of ginger fused to the soft leaves accents the subtle sharpness of the smooth purple petals and adds a hint of rose to magnify its simple elegance. Vetiver and tufts of moss add the finishing grassy touches to this perfumed locale. Though this maintains a pervasive green and subtle floral persona, it dries to a warmer sweeter resin-kissed finale, warm and fresh simultaneously. This is the violet for me. SIllage: slightly below average. Longevity: fair.
Notes: ginger & spice accord, violet leaves, rose, vetiver, smoke, benzoin, oak moss.
"Kokee Pueo" by David Kelly
In her newest fragrance, Ms. Adam has brought to life the Hawaiian white owl. Inspired by nightly sightings of the wild and magnificent bird, while visiting there, Ka Pueo attempts to capture its grace and might. An aromatic and woody perfume that is also uplifting wafts from the skin immediately. Balmy spice tinged floral notes swirl with shimmering pine as this rises upwards. As it levels and soars gracefully, soft jasmine and Palo Santo wood capture its sleek yet soft feathers and protective presence. Its rapid dive and silent landing, on a tree branch, are incorporated in the finish of vetiver, soft frankincense and tonka bean. This maintains a quiet and calm, almost spiritual, presence that wraps you in a gossamer veil, as opposed to a heavy coat of twigs and blossoms. Substantial and intriguing, while being stealthy and subtle, this perfume defies classification. The perfumer calls it “dreamy” and “unisex” and I couldn’t agree more. Sillage: slightly above average. Longevity: good.
Notes: ginger lily, sustainable Palo Santo, pinyon, jasmine accord, tonka bean, vetiver, frankincense & wood.
All of this company’s fragrances are perfumed oils (not EDTs or EDPs) and all are vegan, gentle and 100% natural. While many natural perfumers use grape and/or grain alcohol in their perfumes, Ms. Adam does not. These perfumes all exude natural essences without the added scent of alcohol or its aid on projection and development. Sillage and longevity ratings above are based on this.
Disclosure: Reviews based on samples sent to me by Phoenix Botanicals. These fragrances are available on the Phoenix Botanicals website.
John Reasinger, Senior Editor and Natural Perfumes Editor
Thanks to Phoenix Botanicals we have three 4 ml bottles of perfume oil to give away. Three readers anywhere in the world will win and each have their choice of one of the three perfumes reviewed above. To be eligible, please leave a comment stating which of these three perfumes you would like to possibly win (or try the most) and your favorite place to walk in Nature. Draw will end at 5 pm EST on February 22nd, 2014.
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.