New Natural Perfume Review: Filigree Follow and Lakmé (James Elliott) + Summer Flowers By The Salish Sea Draw

James Elliott of Filigree Natural Perfume (photo:James Elliot)

I live in the Pacific Northwest or as we call it “The upper left hand corner”, a region of mountains, misty primordial forests, the Salish Sea. For the nature lover it is pretty much heaven, and for the perfumista, increasingly a ground zero for fine natural fragrances of unnatural beauty. (House Of Matriarch, Rosarium Blends, House Of Orpheus among others…). l had occasion to sample a new range of naturals from perfumer James Elliott of Seattle whose perfume house Filigree is an independent perfume atelier “creating harmonies of the finest natural materialsin melodic themes. All fragrances are developed and handcrafted in small batches using only botanic ingredients. Each fragrance is certified vegan. These natural perfumes are designed to be provocative and create a memory for something unexpected to happen.”

Perfume blending beaker (photo: James Elliott)

James describes himself as a perfumer “supercollider” (LOVE that!) because he had no idea if these notes would necessarily come together, so he threw caution to the wind and smashed them together in a beaker. The perfumes border on non-traditional and all but one, are based on music. There are currently about 22 fragrances in his range and what gorgeous scents they are.

Robert with Brendan Vartan

On a short drive-by visit last November to Seattle perfumery House Of Vartan owner Brendan Vartan handed me a small sample of an as-yet unnamed perfume from Filigree Perfumes, and challenged me to pick out the notes. As luck would have it, my first hit was pretty spot-on, Oud, skank, and florals. Brendan explained that this was a scent that was being produced exclusively for House Of  Vartan, and it’s a beauty!

The Flower Duet (Lakmé)

Allow me to introduce to you the perfume now named.. Lakmé; inspired by romantic era composer Léo Delibes. “LAKMÉ”, named for the opera is a love song comprised of rose, jasmine, and lotus in oud. The perfect perfume to compliment one of the now-most-famous and ubiquitous opera pieces from Lakmé, “The Flower Duet.”

As a confirmed oud-hater, I’ve been in the perfect position to have my mind changed and the last few months have really become the “oud” era for me starting out with Dusita’s Oudh Infini, an oud of smooth and outstanding beauty, and now Filigree’s “LAKMÉ”, an edp that has again made me re-examine my feelings about oud. This is a truly gorgeous and creamy oud, masterfully blended to add support to the Rose and Jasmine without overwhelming them. The Lotus adds a perfect astringency to the mix helping to anchor the scent from becoming frivolous, and adding a very interesting depth and “zing”. Very vintage inspired, and very “me”. 

Jardins de Tuileries based on a photo by Brian Jensen

Filigree describes “FOLLOW” EdP  as “A romantic dream full of flowers: A stroll through the Tuileries in Paris, Allée Centrale leads you to Bassin Octogonal. Your fingers trace the sunlight on water, watching it sparkle like gods. You close your eyes and smell the fragrant blossoms in the summer evening air, filling your lungs with warmth and honey. An untold joy fills your body as you smile: this is paradise, this is where everything is in its place.”

Singer Heidi Berry apped by MC

“FOLLOW” is inspired by HEIDI BERRY an American singer-songwriter who recorded for Creation Records and 4AD in the late 1980s and 1990s.

 

Photo: Fashionandsounds

It may be winter but this perfume is summer in a bottle; a sharp citrus opening not unlike Hermés Eau De Pamplemousse Rose, complete with pithy and fleshy bitterness. The drydown brings a gorgeous slightly aquatic melon feel, as if you are floating on the water while eating a slice of watermelon as the sunlight shimmers and brightens all around you. Gorgeous. Absolutely gorgeous. Notes: Neroli, mimosa, osmanthus, jonquil, narcissus, linden blossom, ylang ylang (in organic jojoba oil)

Robert Herrmann, Contributor

Disclosure: Samples courtesy of Filigree Perfumes, opinions are my own.

Art Direction:  Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief.

Filigree Perfumes is available through their website: https://filigree.co (note that it’s .co and NOT .com) and select Washington State locations.

Editor’s Note: Lakmé is only available at House of Vartan, you can order online and receive free shipping but alas we have none to offer in this draw

Follow Huile de parfum and Edp

Thanks to James Elliott we have a draw for a USA  registered reader for 10 ml of Follow EDP  and a  Follow Huile de Parfum for a reader anywhere in the world. There are two winners. To be eligible please leave a comment with what you enjoyed about Robert’s review of Lakme and Follow, if you like to wear florals in the summer and where you live, Draw closes 1/24/2017

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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28 comments

  • “A romantic dream full of flowers” is something we need more in winter than in spring. I bet it smells lovely! I am in the EU and I’d love a huile de parfum vial. Thanks for the review.

  • “A sharp citrus opening not unlike Hermés Eau De Pamplemousse Rose, complete with pithy and fleshy bitterness. The drydown brings a gorgeous slightly aquatic melon feel, as if you are floating on the water while eating a slice of watermelon as the sunlight shimmers and brightens all around you. Gorgeous. Absolutely gorgeous.”

    This passage right here was so vivid I could actually smell it in my mind! I would absolutely love a vial of this as I love fruity florals, they go well with the Texas heat!

  • acquiredtaste says:

    I like that LAKME seems to change Robert’s mind about oud.Follow seems very refreshing and charming as it is liken to eating watermelon while floating on water. I live in Malaysia which is summer all year round so I enjoy wearing any types of perfumes including floral ones.

  • Richard Potter says:

    I love Robert’s reviews and am happy to see him having a revelation regarding oud. Lakme sounds enticing.

  • Both fragrances sound more than intriguing. And I was also once an oud-hater, now I can’t imagine my collection without at least one or two proper ouds. And yes, I wear flowers all year round!

    Thank you for the draw. I live in the EU and I look forward to trying Filigree perfumes for quite some time.

  • fazalcheema says:

    Any perfume that makes you reconsider a note has to be good as the review implies Lakme may even impress those who hate the oud note, just like Oudh Infini. I enjoy florals not on;y in summer but even the winter as well. My choice will be Follow EDP. I am in the US.

  • “Your fingers trace the sunlight on water, watching it sparkle like gods. You close your eyes and smell the fragrant blossoms in the summer evening air, filling your lungs with warmth and honey. An untold joy fills your body as you smile: this is paradise, this is where everything is in its place.” Sounds wonderful! I very love natural perfumes. And I very like to wear florals in the summer. I live in Europe. Thank you for the opportunity.

  • doveskylark says:

    I appreciate Robert’s review here because I have now discovered the beautiful music of Heidi Berry (listening to her song “Follow” right now and it’s transporting me to a dream). I now also know about the beautiful opera “The Flower Duet.”
    I love to wear jasmine essential oil with my favorite leather fragrances.
    I live in the USA.

  • I like the way Robert lovingly describes Lakme as a perfume as “very vintage inspired and very me.” It’s so nice when a perfume speaks to you right away. Follow sounds just beautiful, we all need summer in a bottle sometimes and perfumes that capture wildflowers and honey are rare and wonderful. Those are the florals I enjoy wearing. Thanks for the review and introduction to Filigree and a new perfumer (to me); I’m in the US.

  • “Summer in a bottle” was enough to draw me in. Florals are great at any time for me. Lakme also sounds divine. I live in the USA.

  • I have loved reading about James’ journey , Delibes and Lakme one of my favorite classical pieces of music that connection between the oud and the Lotus.A tricky but obviously a successful one! Inspired by vinatge- heck- if I wasn’t into wearing a floral I would now! So I do like ‘florals’ in all seasons, there’s always a time and a place and the moment can be created…but to create summer when you wish- that sounds like a lot of love has gone into that perfume. Thanks for the generous draw for the internationals 🙂 I’m in NZ

  • I love the music to perfume inspiration. The beautiful Lame, what a great piece to use as a perfume brief. I love sharp citrus notes and aquatic notes too, so I’ll Follow you any where! I would like to try the oil version since I prefer scents that wear close to the body. I’m in the US, thank you for the draw!

  • I love the pairing of the fragrance with the Opera. Lovely review by Robert. I do wear florals, especially in the winter. Thanks you for the draw. I live in the USA.

  • Miss Almond says:

    I love the idea of summer in a bottle. I love wearing florals regardless of the season and I’d be very happy to try Follow. I live in Europe. Thank you for the draw!

  • The Lakme sounds gorgeous, although I also can have trouble with ouds. Do they do samples I wonder? The description of Follow as summer in a bottle is enticing right now. I think I would like it. USA. Thanks for the reviews!

  • Both perfumes sound utterly gorgeous, and I always want to try any perfume inspired by an opera. I’ve been looking for a perfume that suggests watermelon without being a full-on aquatic, too. I generally prefer florals in the spring, in weather that’s pleasantly sunny but not too hot. I’m in the US.

  • I appreciate that he has changed his mind on ouds!

    Florals in the summer… I don’t know if I wear them yet! I didn’t start liking florals until this winter. I’m in the USA.

  • cinnamon tree says:

    Lakme sounds very interesting (I myself also have changed my mind about ouds) but Follow sounds even better. I’d love such a burst of flowers in winter. Thank you for the draw. I live in the EU.

  • What a wonderful piece of music. I’ve heard it so many times but now, in addition to the review of the fragrance, I feel like I have discovered something new. A must-try for me. The same applies to Follow and a romantic flower garden which I believe is captured in the bottle. This must be a real beauty. Thanks for the article.

    (EU)

  • I love wearing florals during summer and anytime during the year. What I enjoyed most about the review is how the descriptions of the fragrances are inspiring me to expand my fragrance collection to add more lighter, less heavy fragrances and more floral fragrances. It’s also getting me excited about spring and summer. I love how it’is summer in a bottle. Especially when it’s the middle of winter here. I live in the US. Thank you so much.

  • I love summer in its every form, but “summer in a bottle” in winter is especially appreciated! I wear florals all the time because I love them.
    I live in the EU, thanks!

  • “A sharp citrus opening not unlike Hermés Eau De Pamplemousse Rose, complete with pithy and fleshy bitterness” sounds great and exciting, and so un-winterlike! A perfect scent for gray, cold days.

    Love the photo of Jardins de Tuileries!

    Thank you for the draw. I live in the EU and I’d love to win this tiny beautiful bottle of hdp 🙂

  • Summer flowers in winter sounds great. Jonquil, narcissus, linden blossom in Follow suggest a stunning, rich and beautiful combination that will never grow out of fashion. Rose, jasmine, lotus and oud in Lakme also sound tempting.

    Thank you for the draw. Greetings from Norway!

  • I admire this touching metaphor of a perfect scent: “this is where everything is in its place”. There are only a few fragrances which make me feel this way and sadly some of theme are already discontinued. So I am desperately searching for new ones.
    Great article, thanks! I live in the EU.

  • I am putting Lakme on my “to try” list. An oud fragrance able to turn an oud-hater into someone who is able to appreciate this note, must be worth trying! Follow also seems to be interesting. “A sharp citrus opening not unlike Hermés Eau De Pamplemousse Rose, complete with pithy and fleshy bitterness” reallly speaks to me.

    Thank you for the draw and introducing me to Filigree brand. EU.

  • I enjoyed Robert’s review of Lakme and Follow and reading about his gradual conversion to oud. I live in the US and wear florals year-round.