Ok let’s get this over with; yes it is another set of oud fragrances. I know everyone complains about this but really should we be complaining; especially when this latest collection comes from the ultra-luxe perfume house Xerjoff. Sergio Momo has shown a dedication to one paramount esthetic for Xerjoff; highest quality ingredients. Xerjoff has taken other well-known notes and by taking the best fragrant materials illuminated them like jewels in the perfect setting.  Knowing this dedication I expected that the ouds Sig. Momo would choose would be special and I wasn’t disappointed. There is even an oud accord here to be admired.

I’ve been saying it for a while now that my favorite ouds come from Laos and I was looking forward to trying Al Khatt because it has Laotian oud in it. What I am particularly fond of in the Laotian version of oud is this subtle floralcy hidden deep within. What I am extremely fond of in Al Khatt is how that floral quality is almost forcibly pulled out by the use of an amazing jasmine sambac to open Al Khatt. From out of that intensely floral note the Laotian oud arises in its woody glory and then a resinous benzoin, also from Laos, pulls the resinous facets out of the mix. Cashmeran and oakmoss create depth and vanilla adds a bit of needed sweetness to keep this from tilting into a too sharp finish.

Gao is just a decadent mix of ridiculously opulent notes that should crash and burn but instead it just burns into my consciousness. It starts with an insane amount of saffron from Spain and Iran. This is the most concentrated saffron opening I’ve experienced in a fragrance and I can’t imagine what it took to get this quality in place. It is ethereal, exotic, spicy and it holds the spotlight before letting the woodiness of nagarmotha and juniper form the bridge to the oud. This time it is a mix of Laotian and Thai ouds along with a patchouli amber. From the simple beauty of saffron to the powerhouse oud ending this is one beautiful trip.

Fars is the one Oud Star for those of you who like oud but really don’t want to have a lot of it in your fragrance that will probably be for you. Why? Because there is no oud in it. Instead there is an oud accord which slowly assembles and then just as quickly disperses into its component notes. It is like a shooting star of oud, if you don’t catch it you might not even notice it. Juniper, lavender, and bergamot open this with a traditional lavender centric set of top notes. The juniper persists into the heart as geranium, jasmine and cedar come together with it and the oud accord is almost assembled. Each component begins to click together and Fars becomes distinctly woody as vetiver and nagarmotha provide the final pieces to the accord. As soon as it is assembled it starts decaying as sandalwood and patchouli apply the olfactive force necessary to split it up. This is like watching disparate atoms form a molecule and just as quickly fly apart. It is fascinating to encounter.

Najaf is the Oud Star for those who like the way oud has been displayed in western perfumes since YSL M7. In Najaf the oud adds the exotic core throughout its development. In the top you get an herbal accord of sage. In the heart leathery osmanthus and clean cedar add orthogonal axes to the oud at the center. In the base is where this gets interesting as the oud faces off with tobacco and musk. The ending of Najaf is like a cigarette after lovemaking it just feels like the right coda to this fragrance.

If you think oud can’t ever be sweet then you have to try Mamluk as the gorgeous Indian oud at the core is surrounded by a slew of sweetness. It shows off the more woody feeling of the Indian version of oud by contrast. The opening is golden sunlit honey and a drizzle of caramel. This is another intense opening which strays right up to the edge of being too much before pulling back just before it could have turned treacly. Next the sweet quality is supplied from the floral notes of osmanthus in its more apricot guise and jasmine in her less skanky style. This is where the woody oud arrives and it is followed by vanilla and sweet amber. All throughout the sweet shifts in quality and the oud is the axis around which that sweet quality revolves.

If I’ve been, maybe, apologetic for the presence of the oud in the previous five fragrances Zafar is the one which takes no prisoners. This. Is. Oud. Period. If you have come to appreciate oud in all of its qualities and subtlety Zafar is a fragrance you must try. Not only is it Laotian oud it is Laotian oud from old trees over 15 years old. That extra age adds a more resinous quality to what is already an intense note. If that was the only jewel on display in Zafar that would be great but a truly spectacular incense from Oman is also present to take the resinous quality off the scale, in a good way. Zafar opens with a rose note sprinkled with black pepper to accentuate the spicy. The old trees Laotian oud takes over the middle of Zafar and the incense then swirls out of the oud. In the middle part of this development I felt like I was in a meditation garden surrounded by the most expensive incense sticks ever. It truly felt like a religious experience for me. Eventually vetiver and cedar break the spell but not for a long while. The two stars of this Oud Star take hold and try not to let go.

All of the Oud Stars had overnight longevity and above average sillage.

I have to congratulate Sergio Momo and the Xerjoff team as these six fragrances are each a shining star of oud. The two that shine brightest for me are Al Khatt and Zafar but if you like oud you have to see what Xerjoff can do with oud. Go out and catch yourself an Oud Star.

Disclosure: This review was based on samples provided by Xerjoff USA.

–Mark Behnke, Managing Editor