The House of Amouage was founded nearly 30 years ago, by a member of the Omani Royal Family. They desired to fuse ancient olfactory traditions with the aromatic future; not an easy task.
To their credit, Amouage has done what very few still do these days: they choose fine perfumers, utilize the finest materials, and give them carte blanche with no expense spared.
And this has resulted in many formidable, full-bottle-worthy perfumes of exquisite intricacy and unwavering quality.
Another feather in Amouage’s cap- they have wonderful representatives.
In particular, Sabine Hernandez, whom I see far too infrequently [due to the inconvenience of geography! ] but with whom I joyfully rendezvoused on July 1st -when Aedes de Venustas hosted the pre-launch of their newest addition, The Library Collection, Opus I, II, and III.
True to form, Karl, Robert, and Miguel were consummate hosts; mineral water, Bellini’s, and Prosecco for all. Sabine and her colleague were in attendance, with samples for those present; the boxes are adorable, svelte mini-matchboxes covered in palest silken cloth.
Presentation is paramount; if one is going to invest in something as expensive as an Amouage- it has to be beautiful, too.
Therefore, the boxes are elegant and resemble bound editions; the frosted glass flask, within, resembles nothing so much as a slim, elegant volume.
The label, in gold- announces the Opus and Roman numeral; the cap is gold-plated and embossed with the Amouage shield.
Christopher Chong, the creative director for Amouage, was “inspired by the recollections and fragments we acquire on our journey; the fragments that collectively represent a tome of memories … the notion of the hidden treasures in a library “.
Opus I:
Instant besottment.
Swoony.
This must be what the books in the seraglio wear …
[According to Amouage’s copy, it is “inspired by the start of a pilgrimage in search of knowledge”.]
Referred to as “a glorious Chypre fragrance”, this luscious beauty clearly bursts with complexity.
Bigarade trumpets its arrival; plum and cardamom clamor for attention.
It is potent, no doubt about it.
The heart overflows with floral abundance: ylang -ylang, rose, jasmine, tuberose, lily of the valley …
The base is elaborate, but feels seamless: papyrus, cedarwood, guaiac wood, frankincense, tonka bean, sandalwood, and vetiver.
So…
Floral chypre oriental ?
Lushly sweet, decadent, intoxicating, it becomes creamier with wear…
Opus II:
“a majestic Fougere “ – meant to invoke old books, well-worn leather armchairs, dark wooden shelves.
This is a rare pleasure; something that feels traditionally ‘masculine’ but transcends that appellation.
Top notes of lavender, absinthe, pepper, and pink pepper are crisp, sharp, and pungent.
The black pepper adds dryness to an already dry herbal introduction.
Cinnamon and cardamom accompany such beautiful rose and jasmine, in the heart…! Underpinnings of cedar, patchouli, amber, musk, and frankincense lend ease and comfort-
With perhaps a soupcon of the mustiness you might associate with venerable libraries.
This is a very addictive aroma which grows on you; fougere or chypre [yes, I KNOW there’s no bergamot in the top!], it straddles categories in such a delightful way-
You won’t bother with the details.
Opus III :
“inspired by the art and science of the creative process “.
This fragrance is intensely satisfying, and the most linear of the collection.
“Floral Oriental” it is, indeed.
Delicate, fresh flowers [mimosa, broom] are spiced with carnation, nutmeg and thyme for a lilting melody.
Dynamic violet [orris? ionones?] intones gently with jasmine, ylang-ylang, and orange blossom- not as weighty as it sounds.
The ambrette and musk anchor the florals, with papyrus, cedarwood, sandalwood, and guaiac wood treading very softly.
Benzoin and vanilla round it all out in a harmonious fashion.
I am loathe to liken one scent to another…
But the drydown reminds me of Nez a Nez Marron Chic.
True, there is no chocolate nuance- but the dessert-like sweet texture is as sumptuous.
Perhaps it’s all that woody resinousness with benzoin and orange blossom combined with violet / iris which they commonly share.
Truly, there is something here for all tastes.
The goal was to transcend gender; all three are to be worn by anyone.
To my knowledge, this is the first time there is NO Amouage “man or woman”.
These scents will first debut in London, at Harrod’s-
And will soon be available in the U.S.
My sincerest thanks to the good folk at Aedes and Sabine Hernandez for the samples provided and their hospitality!
[All quotes are from the Amouage company literature provided.]
–Ida Meister, Senior Editor