One of the best discoveries last year was the Australian perfume house of Tommi Sooni. Creative Director Steven Broadhurst and perfumer Brent Schlitter have a very synchronized vision and the first four fragrances from Tommi Sooni showed that these two gentlemen could create perfume as good as anything found in Europe or North America. In fact if I had any little bit of constructive criticism it was that I wanted to see a Tommi Sooni fragrance which was inspired by Australia and the rich floral environment that exists down there. I guess I must have been synchronized with their thoughts because the fifth Tommi Sooni release is called Passerelle and while it has a French name this is very representative of its country of origin.
In the press release for Passerelle it is mentioned that the goal for this fragrance was to use Australian flora to create a perfume with French character. What Mr. Schlitter ends up doing is taking a group of flowers and expertly keeps layering them on like an olfactory florist adding a new flower to his display as Passerelle develops on the skin. We are so used to the different white flowers and rose carrying the floral banner in most floral fragrances. In Passerelle this is almost a different beast entirely as it is golden flowers which impart a sunny floral glow throughout the entire time Passerelle is with you. It is this deep golden hue which hearkens back to Australia and it is the classic deepening pyramid which creates the very long bridge to France.
Mr. Schlitter chose wisely throughout Passerelle and it is the opening set of notes which let you know you’re not in the Northern Hemisphere. He takes silver wattle, or mimosa as it is known elsewhere, with the presence of myrtle adding a more unique floral component but the use of tea tree adds the exotic locale to the top notes. This opening is amazing as the sweet floral quality of the wattle and myrtle are contrasted with the slightly camphor-like tea tree. Boronia, jasmine, honeysuckle, and golden trumpet are added by Mr. Schlitter stem by stem as the floralcy of this just builds and builds. In many floral extravaganzas like this there is a point where I want to shout “No Mas!” The beauty of what Mr. Schlitter is doing here is that he keeps layering on the floral layers but these are not heavy hitter florals for the most part and by adding them in piece by piece it allows the wearer to appreciate each new addition. The base is a beautifully sourced Australian sandalwood which is the perfect foundation for Passerelle as it nods to both Australia and France in the final evolution.
Passerelle has outstanding almost 24-hour longevity and above average sillage.
If you love floral fragrances you must try Passerelle it is one of the best fresh floral fragrances I have tried in a year or so. Mr. Broadhurst and Mr. Schlitter have truly created a bridge just far enough between Australia and France. All it takes to travel this bridge is to spray on some Passerelle.
Disclosure: This review was based on a sample provided by Tommi Sooni.
Thanks to Tommi Sooni we have three samples to giveaway to three readers. To be eligible leave a comment on a native flora to where you live you would like to see used in a fragrance. We will draw three winners from all comments on August 5, 2012 via random.org.
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilt perfume.
-Mark Behnke, Managing Editor