New Fragrance Review Tommi Sooni Passerelle: Golden Flowers + Go Native Sample Draw

One of the best discoveries last year was the Australian perfume house of Tommi Sooni. Creative Director Steven Broadhurst and perfumer Brent Schlitter have a very synchronized vision and the first four fragrances from Tommi Sooni showed that these two gentlemen could create perfume as good as anything found in Europe or North America. In fact if I had any little bit of constructive criticism it was that I wanted to see a Tommi Sooni fragrance which was inspired by Australia and the rich floral environment that exists down there. I guess I must have been synchronized with their thoughts because the fifth Tommi Sooni release is called Passerelle and while it has a French name this is very representative of its country of origin.

In the press release for Passerelle it is mentioned that the goal for this fragrance was to use Australian flora to create a perfume with French character. What Mr. Schlitter ends up doing is taking a group of flowers and expertly keeps layering them on like an olfactory florist adding a new flower to his display as Passerelle develops on the skin. We are so used to the different white flowers and rose carrying the floral banner in most floral fragrances. In Passerelle this is almost a different beast entirely as it is golden flowers which impart a sunny floral glow throughout the entire time Passerelle is with you. It is this deep golden hue which hearkens back to Australia and it is the classic deepening pyramid which creates the very long bridge to France.

Mr. Schlitter chose wisely throughout Passerelle and it is the opening set of notes which let you know you’re not in the Northern Hemisphere. He takes silver wattle, or mimosa as it is known elsewhere, with the presence of myrtle adding a more unique floral component but the use of tea tree adds the exotic locale to the top notes. This opening is amazing as the sweet floral quality of the wattle and myrtle are contrasted with the slightly camphor-like tea tree. Boronia, jasmine, honeysuckle, and golden trumpet are added by Mr. Schlitter stem by stem as the floralcy of this just builds and builds. In many floral extravaganzas like this there is a point where I want to shout “No Mas!” The beauty of what Mr. Schlitter is doing here is that he keeps layering on the floral layers but these are not heavy hitter florals for the most part and by adding them in piece by piece it allows the wearer to appreciate each new addition. The base is a beautifully sourced Australian sandalwood which is the perfect foundation for Passerelle as it nods to both Australia and France in the final evolution.

Passerelle has outstanding almost 24-hour longevity and above average sillage.

If you love floral fragrances you must try Passerelle it is one of the best fresh floral fragrances I have tried in a year or so. Mr. Broadhurst and Mr. Schlitter have truly created a bridge just far enough between Australia and France. All it takes to travel this bridge is to spray on some Passerelle.

Disclosure: This review was based on a sample provided by Tommi Sooni.

Thanks to Tommi Sooni we have three samples to giveaway to three readers. To be eligible leave a comment on a native flora to where you live you would like to see used in a fragrance. We will draw three winners from all comments on August 5, 2012 via random.org.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilt perfume.

-Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

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51 comments

  • I would like see Mock Orange, Usnea ( a type of lichen, makes interesting smelling tinctures) California Bay Laurel, Nootka rose, Star Flower, used in perfume. Resin from Ponderosa pine is also nice.

    Thanks for the blog and for the draw.

  • Wow Passerelle sounds stunning. The idea of golden flowers and sandalwood knocks me off my feet
    beach found ambergris a hundred years old
    I can dream!

  • I live in Virginia, US…. so all I can think that would be lovely in a perfume would be – moss (from the rivers) and woods (maybe oak?)

  • Canan Pamuk says:

    Native flora in my country in the middle of Europe are mainly medicinal herbs:
    thyme, chamomile, plantain, lime blossom, birch leaves, lungwort, primrose, mullein, wormwood, hyssop, lemon balm, mint, calendula, marjoram, angelica, sage, oregano, cumin, hollyhocks. Bouquets of fresh and dried herbs could be a fountain of nice smells.

  • I am in Western Australia so I am familiar with all these native plants.
    Wattle is everywhere here in early spring…makes me sneeze, but boronia would make an amazing perfume.
    Our sandalwood is smooth and creamy and just gorgeous!
    Would love to try Passerelle.

  • Scented Memories says:

    I am from Eastern Europe and I would like to smell a perfume with acacia flower…

  • Sara Boorman says:

    I love the fragrance of cowslips that we get in the UK, it is a pretty little yellow flower & despite its name it has a delicate sweet scent.

  • Trumpet flowers on the hardy trumpet vines that can take over a porch rail or fence. Or the smell of dry maple leaves in the fall.

  • This sounds luscious! While not native to my area, we have a few Hong Kong Orchid Trees in my neighborhood. Bloom colors vary from white to mauve to fuscia to purple and the scent is understated and beautiful. When an entire tree is in bloom the light delicate floral odor can be noticed a block away- plus they bloom in December and January-just lovely to the eye and the nose! Thanks for the draw 🙂

  • I love a good floral bouquet. This one sounds amazing!

    I would love a fragrance inspired by Galium verum.

  • Sunflowers, I see them around here…would love to smell a perfume that had the true, sweet scent of a real sunflower. They are gorgeous smelling. Really didn’t like Sunflowers…total disappointment and no sunflowers.

  • This fragrance sounds amazing. I love florals, and I would love to see a true Honeysuckle fragrance…all the ones out smell so artificial too me.

  • Magnolias here in the south! And plenty of peach blossoms since its the Peach state after all.

  • A luscious huckleberry perfume would be a dream come true for me. Most huckleberry-scented items don’t even come close to capturing the wild allure of those tiny tart-sweet berries. Thanks for the draw!

  • I love Lily of the Valley and it’s native here. But of course there allready exist perfumes with lily of the valley. =)

  • A plant native to the Pacific Northwest that has not been used in a perfume? I think Oregon grape would be a good one. At first I thought they had no scent, but then discovered that once the flowers open, they have a very strong, sweet “pollen” fragrance. I wouldn’t want it as a perfume per se, but it would make a nice addition to many floral accords.

  • Not a lot of flowers that grow in Maine have a strong smell, and none of them will be “exotic” in any way. I do love the smell of the honeysuckle that grows in one of my neighbors’ garden, and of our lilacs in the spring. Do lupins have a smell?

  • I don’t need to be in the draw but I agree with you completely!! I joked with someone that it could be called Fleur de Fleur de Fleur de Fleur. It is one of the best purely floral fragrances I have smelled in a very long time.

  • You’re going to laugh : Milkweed. yep, Milkweed –we have at least 2 varieties here in Michigan: pale yellow flowers which are very lightly scented and a mauve-y pink variety which smells just gorgeous! I let a few grow in my garden about 10 years ago because my daughter was interested in raising Monarch butterflies (which was a really cool experience) and that is when I discovered that those blossoms are wonderfully fragrant! Now, my daughter is way, way past the “bugs are cool” phase of growing up but I still allow a patch of milkweed to grow in my flower beds. They smell great and somedays we’ll have a dozen Monarchs flitting around doing their thing. Can’t beat that!

  • Datura5750 says:

    I have a big patch of sweet alyssum outside my window, a hint of that in a sent would be nice!

  • matildaben says:

    Unfortunately I do not know enough about flowers to know if there are any that are especially native to Seattle. But one scent that we get a lot of here, which I love, is the smell of newly rained on sidewalks.

  • Tama and Mark
    I don’t think I can remember smelling such a beautiful floral fragrance
    The perfume really evokes burying your nose in a breathtaking bouquet

  • It would be wonderful to have the chance to try Passerelle! This is sort of cheating, but I love the nasturtiums that have become naturalized in coastal northern California. Besides being beautiful, they have a wonderful peppery green scent that I’d love to see prominently featured in a fragrance.

  • I see & smell tons of gorgeous bright red & orange trumpet creeper here by the beach in southern NJ, but I don’t hear of many fragrances that specifically feature it. I suppose the closest would be Angel’s Trumpet, and I think it has similarities to honeysuckle, as well. I’d love the chance to try Passarelle!

  • Amberosmanthus says:

    Catalina Perfume is a California native that smells of fine wine. I think it would be a lovely addition to a fragrance. Thanks for always keeping the questions an interesting challenge.

  • I don’t know if it’s native to California but it grows here and I’d love to smell Daphne odora in a perfume form.

  • I would love to try Passarelle!

    I love the scent of lily of the valley bushes which I googled– pieris japonica. They’s everywhere here but not native to America. The only scents I can think of as being really native to New England are cranberry, squash, blueberry….just don’t know enough about native wildflowers.
    I like cranberry and crabapple too, but not alone, and woods like pine, yew, oak, maple, also honeysuckle, wild roses… but need to learn more about flowers.

    thanks for the review and draw!

  • Funnily enough because I’m an Aussie that grew up in the country, a true-to-life wattle tree scent is what I crave. So far I have only been sorely disappointed by a majority of mimosa (wattle tree) scents.

  • Easy question! I have always wanted a perfume which reminds me of the countryside in january in this side of the world. It smells mainly to almond blossoms, my favorite scented flower. I know many perfumes contain almond but almond blossom scent isn’t easy to find.

  • I would love a fragrance that showcases the heavy, honied, musky scent of the species clematis (aka Sweet Autumn clematis). Not sure if it is actually native or just naturalized, but it is extremely invasive and ornaments all the small towns around here from late summer to frost with masses and masses of creamy white garlands. This, and dry grass, is the scent of late summer to me. If you added sycomore and shiso, you’d be even closer. The Passarelle sounds beautiful. Thanks for the draw!

  • I am extremely excited about this one! Love the other fragrances from the brand, love the florals. Yay!

    I’d like to see butterfly bush used in perfumery. It smells lovely and would take a nice place in a floral bouquet with jasmine, irises, roses… I’d ask Ineke to work on that. Or Calice Becker!

  • Michelle U says:

    Linden flowers or Linden Blossom from Europe! Linden smells really special! 😀 Thank you! 🙂

  • farawayspices says:

    I had yellow roses in my yard growing up- no idea what variety they were, other than that they grew big, beautiful blossoms that had a sunny rose fragrance, with a fruity note particularly when in full bloom. Always searching for that note of my memories!

  • I would love a perfume that smells like wild blackberry bushes when they bloom. It is a sweet wild scent but very light.

  • It would probably have to be the yellow roses that are grown in the gardens near my house. They have a wonderful, light lemony scent that reminds me of sunshine and spring.

  • Well…. it’s not a flower but an herb – wood mint. It grows in redwood forests and is in the mint family, though it smells nothing like mint. It’s a clean, smooth, pale green/gray smell. Very fresh. It always makes me smile.

  • gypsyqueenmother says:

    Though it is classified as a weed, I find the blossom of the thistle Plant to be a soft enchanting green aroma I would love to see in a light scented floral perfume

    Thanks for sharing! 🙂

  • I love cala Lillies for their singular beauty. I don’t think they have been used in perfumery so why not

  • This sounds lovely! Where I live in Northern California, the scent of the trees overpowers the flowers and shrubs. I often smell redwoods and coniferous trees. Every once in a while I will get a whiff of eucalyptus. What always remains constant is a mineralic feel and smell in the air.

  • That would be the Matricaria chamomilla that I used to pick when I was a little girl.

  • I live in Hungary, Europe. In our garden there is a locus-tree and under it an elderberry-bush. When they are blooming together, there is a fantastic scent near them. I would like to sniff it from a perfumebottle too.