The very mention of the name Tom Ford hints at stylish and indulgent designs, over-the-top advertising and, usually, controversy. The mention of the name Noir (or black) brings to mind something dark, brooding, mysterious and intriguing. This perfume does both names justice. When I think about the color black, I think it never goes out of style. It goes with everything. How does one define the absence of color, let alone give it an aroma?  In a year that saw a lot of lighter and fresher fragrances and flankers released, it was nice to see this house do something a bit darker, for men, and release it in an eau de parfum concentration!

Tom Ford’s creations, both in perfumes and on the runway, are hit or miss with me. Even those that miss have an uncanny ability to still come off as stylish. When he puts together an outfit or a look he blends many elements and textures to achieve his ideal. This is also the case with his perfumes. Some of these are way “too much” for me or just not my style. Some, like Noir, are classy while still radiating comfort and a hint of luxury.

“Black/Noir”, at least in the perfumista’s lexicon, usually means heavier, darker or sweeter. Something that is more fitting to be worn at night or that gives the feeling of the night is not easy to define. If you think about it, there are actually many different shades of black or levels of darkness. Noir is not “pitch black”. It is more of a warm black that has added some shine and glow to the shadows while maintaining its cool yet dark demeanor. There is a bad boy leather-jacket black and there is a smooth woolen overcoat black. This perfume is more akin to the latter.

The opening is very sharp with the combined citric aspects of both tart and juicy bergamot and fresh lemon verbena. These are balanced by the combined spiciness of pungent caraway and a demure pink pepper. The result is something warmer and deeper, yet still refreshing, and the addition of violets creates a feeling that is a bit powdery and slightly floral. It doesn’t really smell all that black or dark yet, but it does smell good and well-blended. This is a shiny black, something dark that reflects light.

The heart of this scent is lovely, and my favorite part. It is built on a fulcrum of green iris and clary sage that perfectly unites a full aromatic green with a deeper cooler earthy one. Sassy and sweet flowers sit on one end of the see-saw and warm masculine spices sit on the other. Here is where this scent actually reminds me of something older and more vintage. It is sexy, robust and enticing. Eventually the spices win out, but the flowers still linger slightly in the background adding a bit of softness and a silken caress. Here is a slightly metallic black, catching moonbeams and refracting iridescent swirls.

The ultimate finish on this is ambery and resinous. The spices dry up eventually, cooling down to reveal a gorgeous blend of incense gums and heavier base notes. These are not smoky incense fumes but instead the gums and crumbly solids that, when burned, will emit those heavenly odors. When dark patchouli is added, along with a sheer golden vanillic glaze, it becomes a sweet and balmy delight.  Oozing mystery and swirling odors from faraway lands with a healthy dose of heady musk, this perfume creates an aura of manly seduction while remaining shadowy and secretive. Here is the beauty of the dark unknown and all the possibilities it contains.  

Does this perfume smell “black”? It captures some aspects of black and is definitely something that works better at night when it is cooler and darker. Noir, in literature and cinema, often meant “dark”. Noir manages to live up to its name without getting lost in the crowd of other black fragrances. It reminds us that without light (or white) there really can’t be any darkness (or black). “Always in style” and “Goes with anything” would be good tag lines for this particular scent. With a lot of different shadows Tom Ford has woven something as cool and elegant as it is warm and comfortable. Is Noir the “new black”? Not really. It is most definitely a new “take” on a rather hackneyed theme, and that is enough for me to be impressed. Sillage: above average. Longevity: very good.

Disclosure: Review based on eau de parfum spray sample from Tom Ford Beauty.

–John Reasinger, Editor