There is that moment when a perfumer hits an inflection point and their creativity takes an exponential jump upward. In 2011, one perfumer I believe found herself on that upward trajectory is Charna Ethier of Providence Perfume Company. Osmanthus Oolong, Cocoa Tuberose and, my favorite of last year Rose Boheme are all examples of a creative vision at its most fierce. Of course the inevitable question of whether Ms. Ethier can continue to create at such a level is one of those interesting things to watch for this year.
Thankfully she didn’t keep me waiting long as her first release of 2012, Hindu Honeysuckle, has been my companion for the last two days. Ms. Ethier strives to create an exotic fragrance which also encompasses the place honeysuckle holds within Hindu spirituality. Honeysuckle is called Madhumalati in Sanskrit and if broken into its compound parts that word translates roughly as “Honey Jasmine”. For Hindu Honeysuckle Ms. Ethier works with a deep jasmine sambac from India and surrounds it with a skillfully chosen group of notes which not only add some figurative sweet but some sense of place, as well.
The sweet jasmine sambac is where Hindu Honeysuckle opens. Jasmine is a sweet floral note beloved by many but as a note it also contains a bit of something less sweet. We often characterize the indolic heart of jasmine as “dirty” but here Ms. Ethier turns it to something different. I would call the jasmine in Hindu Honeysuckle “earthy”. There is an alive quality to this jasmine note and one could say that I shouldn’t be surprised that a botanical perfume feels alive but this seems even more supernatural than it should. The earthiness that is present in the jasmine is matched by ambrette seed imposing a botanical musk and a very green vetiver. Coriander adds spiciness to the middle part of the development of Hindu Honeysuckle. The coriander had a bit of a sweaty aspect to it almost like cumin in that particular aspect. Rose is the final piece of the puzzle as it adds its floral intensity to this mix and elevates it above the earth and into the spiritual.
Hindu Honeysuckle has average longevity and average sillage, typical of an all-natural perfume.
Hindu Honeysuckle is a beautiful example of the complexity natural perfumers can achieve by using the best natural components. As far as Ms. Ethier is concerned Hindu Honeysuckle continues her ascension begun last year. One can only wonder how high she can reach before the end of this year.
Disclosures: This review was based on a sample of Hindu Honeysuckle provided by Providence Perfume Company. Providence Perfume Company is represented by Sens Unik the company owned by Cafleurebon’s Managing Director Didier Cholay and Editor-in-Chief Michelyn Camen.
Thanks to Charna Ethier we have a full bottle of Hindu Honeysuckle to give away to one lucky reader. To be eligible visit the Providence Perfume Company website and leave comment saying which fragrance you think is your favorite. The draw will close on January 28, 2012 and one winner will be drawn via random.org.
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilt perfume
–Mark Behnke, Managing Editor
–Art Direction, Michelyn Camen, EIC
Editor’s Note: Charna Ethier will be at the Elements Showcase in New York City January 30-31, 2012 presenting Hindu Honeysuckle at booth 6-03 and the rest of the Providence Perfume Company line of fragrances.