New Fragrance Review: Parfum d’Empire’s Azemour- Mémoire Olfactive de L’Enfance Marocaine and “Gift of Light” Draw

“If all my scents are a part of myself, this one is particularly dear to me."
– Marc-Antoine Corticchiato


Azemmour is a site of holy pilgrimage for Moslems and Jews alike.

This ancient Moroccan city, once under the rule of the King of Fez, is steeped in vivid personal memories for the creator of Parfum d’Empire. `

It was here that he rode horseback through his parents’ orange groves and

along the wadi.

Azemmour- in Portuguese- means “The Olives”.

This isn’t surprising, since this noble city fell under Portuguese fealty in 1486.

Even Magellan couldn’t vanquish the spirits of the Moroccans; soon after 1541, the Portuguese abandoned their strenuous efforts to maintain hierarchy there.

Marc-Antoine Corticchiato revisits his Moroccan childhood with tender vivacity.

The Azemour he portrays brims with sunlight: joyously zesty, painted in riotous hues of orange and green, by turns.

 

There is a singularly mouthwatering quality to this buoyant fragrance.

An explosion of citrus greets our nose; fleshy clementines, tangerine, grapefruit– raise their collectively juicy voice in praise.

It’s a Citrus Chorale; we are uplifted from the very start.

Our next movement is a beloved and familiar one, especially if you’re a fan of Parfum d’Empire [which I am…I own most of their work, and have ‘backup bottles’, too ;-)].

Spices of the souk surround us: coriander, cumin, black and pink pepper provide the piquant counterpoint, as they often do in Marc-Antoine’s compositions.

They ingratiate themselves into our good graces by insinuation, not cudgeling; one feels a deft hand at work.

 

Galbanum is undeniably verdant, wet, fresh- and cassis as counterpart ups the ante, even purring a little [as cassis possesses a curiously animalic aspect in itself].

We have HEART!

Neroli, orange blossom, rose in profusion accompanied by the lovely geranium, flesh out this composition with wanton abandon.

Floral ambrosia flatters the greenness, the spice, the citric tang.

What follows echoes grand chypres of yore, with a twist.

Henna imparts that dry sweetness ; it’s such a perfect partner for the coumarinic beauty of hay, with oakmoss on its heels.

Cypresses are intimated in the perfumed finale, graced by a distinct iodine note, however subtly employed.

You can feel the multiple facets of the environment- dry, lush, somewhat salty.


All that is needed is Marc- Antoine himself on horseback, galloping through the orangeries, the dunes and coastline.

[Small wonder that he began his youth contemplating an equestrian career.]


As we experience the shorter days of late autumn and approaching winter,

What better way to illuminate them?

Initially, I felt that autumn would NOT have been my ideal choice for the release of Azemour.

Now I perceive it as a fragrant boon, a gift of light in a dark season, and the celebration of that same light during longer days…

Azemour feels classic.

It is a consummately elegant chypre with a subtle drydown that is absolutely suitable for anyone, on any occasion.

Business or pleasure- it’s your choice.

You won’t be disappointed- unless you want an earthquake.

Azemour is no earthquake; it’s a celebration of light.


Senior Editor’s Note: I purchased my own bottle of Azemour [unsniffed !] long before I was asked to write about it.

We have a draw for five samples of Azemour courtesy of Fragrance and Art. To be eligible visit the site and check out the entire Parfum D’Empire collection and then come back and leave a comment on which is your favorite. Draw will end on November 17, 2011.

Your vote will count twice if you like Fragrance and Art on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Fragrance-Art/278164548882385 who are carrying some beautiful and hard to find brands.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilt perfume

Ida Meister, Senior Editor

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *


27 comments

  • I own Wazamba and Cuir D’Ottoman and love them both. Looking at the Fragrance and Art site, Iskander looks like a winner as does Azemour. I’m a sucker for anything with oakmoss.

  • Wazamba is my favorite. I was already sold when I saw incense, myrrh, sandalwood in the ingredients, being an Incense person myself and then I saw Cypress and Apple and I wondered how that would be. A bit of green and a bit of fruit. Yummm 🙂

  • Never tried any of them but I’m sure I will fall for either “Cuir ottoman” or “Ambre russe”. would be glad to try” Azemour”

  • I believe Azemour will be another love for me from the Parfum d’Empire range (I already have 5 bottles). 🙂
    But if I were to choose only one as my favourite, I’d go with Fougere Bengale.

    And I already liked Fragrance and Art on facebook.

  • Ambre Russe is very appealing to me, if I had to choose one. I’ve very much been wanting to try Azemour, though. Thanks for the draw!

  • Francesca Belanger says:

    Beautiful, evocative name. And the list of notes makes me swoon—so many of my favorites. Now I’d love to sniff the sum of their glories collected in Azamour. From this line, I love Eau Suave and Osmanthus Interdite. I must get over to MiN to check out the rest again.

    Lovely post, Ida.

  • Oh, this sounds fabulous. I am a Pd’E fan and own several. I cannot choose between Ambre Russe & Wazamba as to which is my favorite.

  • Parfum d’Empire has such a well done and wearable range, I’m a big fan of theirs. I particularly love Equistrius and Osmanthus Interdite and would love a chance to try Azemour.

    I have “Liked” Fragrance and Art on FB. Thanks for the draw!

  • I love the sound of this one! Azemour les Orangers
    has all my favorite notes – orange, clementine, tangerine, grapefruit, citrus, galbanum, orange blossom, rose, hay, moss… yum! Amber Russe is also on my list to try. So many interesting scents from this line. Thanks for the Draw!

  • I already know that I love Wazamba and Ambre Russe. I’d love to try Azemour. P d’E is not afraid to use rich contrasts and sumptuous accords, no “shower fresh” scents here!

  • Sorry, but there’s a touch of misinformation in the above text which I felt urged to correct. (Otherwise we all know how “misinformation” can run riot on the web. Especially if no one bothers to correct some of it ;o)

    I’m afraid “Azemmour” does NOT mean “The Olives” in Portuguese, as stated above. … “Azemmour” the word is actually derived from an old Berber word : “Al-Zemmouri”, which means “wild olive tree”. And “azemmur” can be roughly translated to “wild olive”. (Although the Berber word now for “olive” is “ouzoud”).
    Portugal did however conquer the Moroccan city back in 1508, and in Portuguese the city is called “Azamor” (a basic translation of azzemour).
    Incidentally “The Olives” in Portuguese would actually be : As Azeitonas. (“azeitonas” the word probably also derived from Arabic).

    So, with all the “pedantics” over (Sorry !). My fave Parfum D’Empire frag is probably “Aziyadé”. (Though I’d probably be torn between it and “Cuir Ottoman” if I were forced to give one up ;o).
    ~ Please enter me into the draw. (Thank you !)

  • I love all Corticchiato’s Fragrances and my favorites are Fougere Bengale and L’Eau de Gloire. I’m sure Azemour will be another great scent. Thanks for the draw!

  • Yeah, I was thinking that Azemmour didn’t sound as a Portuguese word at all! 🙂

    My favorite Parfum d’Empire is Yuzu Fou. It’s fresh and delicious!
    I like Wazamba too, and I have tried almost all the fragrances in the line and they are really good.

  • I’ve already sampled, and liked, Fougere Bengale and Equistrius. Besides Azemour, the two I think I’d most enjoy are Wazamba and Aziyade. I love incense, and earthy, but I also like lush edge-of-gourmand-but-interesting-too scents. Azemour sounds like a really intesresting chypre, with not only ‘moss’ but hay and henna in the base. I’d love to try it!

  • I would srsly love to try each and every one, they all sound absolutely divine. But as I can’t get enough hay lately, I’m currently yearning for Azemour les Orangers… thanks for the draw.

  • chayaruchama says:

    Thank you , Jules, for your correction of erroneous information !
    Damn those faulty sites 😉

    I’m most appreciative.

  • I would love to try Azemour les Orangers! I haven’t tried anything from this line — sounds great!

  • Paul-Laurentiu says:

    My favourite of the bunch is Cuir Ottoman. I love leather and iris therefore I love Cuir Ottoman.

  • I own a beautiful bottle of Wazamba, and I think my next favorite might be Iskander. The new one, Azemour, sounds marvelous.

  • What a beautiful article,the illustrations are so inspiring!Can’t wait to try Azemour-so far Wazamba and Fougere Bengale are my favourites!Thanks for the draw!!

  • Azemour sounds very intriguing.
    My favorite Pd’E? This is easy: Cuir ottoman.
    Thnaks for the draw.

  • Thank you for the lovely review. This is a perfume line of great beauty, I find it very difficult to choose ONE favourite, but perhaps it would be Fougere Bengale, closely followed by Wazamba, Eau de Gloire and Equistrius. You see, too difficult 😉
    Can’t wait to try Azemour.
    Thanks for the draw:-)

  • What a great review. All of these fragrances sound wonderful. I would probably like Azemour, as I love classic….perfume(chanel girl), furniture, music, everything. Please enter me in draw…thanks.