Tom Hiddleston and Tilda Swinton as Adam and Eve in Jim Jarmusch’s Only Lovers Left Alive, 2013
There’s a reason the Tree of Knowledge in the Biblical Garden of Eden was a fruit tree. The Book of Genesis depicts Adam and Eve, the world’s first pair of lovers, as innocent until they quenched their thirst with its ripe, juicy flesh. While the new limited edition M. Micallef Art Collection fragrances Puzzle No. 1 and Puzzle No. 2 are said to be inspired by the games lovers play, they could just as easily be inspired by the idea of original sin.
Parfums M. Micallef Puzzle No. 1 and Puzzle No. 2
Besides Martine Micallef’s stunning flacon design, the only thing puzzling about these fragrances is how such sweet notes were crafted so sensually by Geoffrey Nejman and Jean Claude Astier. The list of notes for each fits the category fruity floral, but it’s as if the perfumers worked backwards in time to create the origins of that perfume species.
Mona Johannesson by Oscar Falk for Elle
Puzzle No. 1 is the more feminine of the collection, and can be said to symbolize Eve’s determination to taste the forbidden fruit. It opens with juicy notes of lemon, orange and peach that waft like petals in a breeze. The heart of No. 1 is the womanly guile of osthmanthus, also known as sweet olive, a blossom with a scent reminiscent of apricot, contrasted with a strong backbone of orris and gilded with jasmine and vanilla. Base notes of tonka, gaiac, cedar and benzoin ground it without detracting from its airiness.
Puzzle No. 2 is more overtly sexy and brings to mind the carnal knowledge gained in exchange for expulsion from paradise. It opens with a strong grapefruit resting on a bed of green blackcurrant leaves, and at this stage could be considered cologne-like. Its gorgeous heart of cassis (supported by geranium, jasmine and vanilla) thrilled me; unlike other fragrances which feature the note, it is absolutely pure and true here without the slightest hint of pet odor. A deeper base made up of musk, vetiver, patchouli and cashmere wood weaves itself into the cassis to bring midnight to the garden of good and evil.
Edita Vilkeviciute Vogue Espagne 2010
Although I am not often a fan of layering fragrances, I tried it with these two on several occasions and have to report that, like jigsaw puzzle pieces, they fit together perfectly. Longevity on both is excellent, and for me one spray of each projected sufficiently to be noticed by and complimented on by others, which delighted me. This good girl has a sinful side too.
Disclaimer: Review based upon deluxe samples provided by M. Micallef for promotional purposes.
— Nancy Knows, Sr. Editor and Beauty Editor
Thanks to the great generosity of M. Micallef Parfums, we have a worldwide reader’s choice draw for a bottle of Puzzle No. 1 or Puzzle No. 2. To enter, please comment noting your favorite M. Micallef fragrance and indicate which of the two you would like to win. Like the M. Micallef page on Facebook if you want your comment to count twice. Draw ends June 21, 2014
M.Micallef Boutique in Dubai
Editor's Note: The married couple behind the brand, Martine Micallef and Geoffrey Nejman, are spending a great deal of time away from Cannes opening Parfums Micallef boutiques; 12 are scheduled to launch in Dubai. Puzzle 1 and 2 are currently not available in the USA, which is a shame. They are available at First-In-Fragrance.