Estee Lauder has released its first truly new scent, neither a flanker nor a seasonal version, since 2008’s Sensuous with its first major worldwide launch in the past ten years, since Beyond Paradise. Modern Muse takes many notes we have all smelled before and, under the skillful hand of Master Perfumer Harry Fremont, has been molded into something that is much more than a soliflore; yet, slightly less structured than your typical fragrance. It’s bursting with sensuality and savoir faire, yet exudes an elegant simplicity.
This perfume has no less than five “key inspirations” from the bottle to the name to the scent, and even where and how the media ads were shot. NATURE: The key ingredients in this were inspired by things growing in Harry Fremont’s own garden. The pristine beauty of the delicate flowers and a simple garden combined with the complexity of today’s woman create the map for this fragrance. TRAVEL: Two of the key notes in this create an “east meets west” vibe with jasmine Sambac from China and a special blend of patchouli essences combined with other flowers and a light twist of citrus. DESIGN: An homage to the original Youth Dew bottle (with its gold bow), this strong glass bottle is topped with a bow of its own, in basic black. FASHION: The one-of-a-kind dress you see in the ad (worn by model Arizona Muse) has eight bows on it. These, along with the ninth bow, on the flacon, mirror the nine muses from Greek mythology. ART: The television commercial was filmed at the Guggenheim Museum, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, in New York City-yet another overlay of modern art superimposed over an historic background.
Jasmine Flowers by Charoon Boonsuan
M. Fremont decided to do things a bit differently with Modern Muse. Forsaking the classic top, middle and base notes approach to fragrance our perfumer has created a dual impression of two very distinct and contrasting chords. The accords, sparkling jasmine and sleek woods, used here are augmented further with a bevy of almost burlesque floral notes. According to the press information, this allows every woman to experience the perfume in her own way. Many will be pulled toward the fresh florals while many others will respond to the warm woodiness. “How does this fragrance speak to you?” is the question the SA may ask you when you go to test this scent at the Lauder counter. It spoke to me in a sexy whisper, firmly, in the most pleasant comforting voice.
Fresh Sambac Jasmine Flowers
A shiny silken thread of sambac jasmines, Chinese and domestic, are woven throughout this from start to finish. The opening of splendidly sweet and invigorating mandarin gives the jasmine a fresh, yet almost beguiling “good girl’s gonna go bad” demeanor. Do not let this fool you! This is no “plastic fruit and fake flowers” perfume. The jasmine is loud and proud, at times almost a bit too strong…notice, I said almost! It emits a playful sensuality, then as it warms and dries on the skin it gains floral momentum as it heads towards a simply divine woody musky finish. Other major players are tuberose, which adds a slightly smoky dry aroma, with honeysuckle and lily lending sprinkles of creamy spiciness and tender breath of fruitiness. It will be quite obvious, to most perfumisti, that this is a modern perfume; however, it smells better than most of the scents from comparable Houses that cost the same amount, or more.
The second darker, woodier accord is composed of two patchouli oils that come together to capture shadowy earthiness with gentle wooden beauty. Madagascar vanilla adds an oriental undercurrent with its soothing golden aura, without becoming a toothache-inducing gourmand. I believe amber wood has something to do with this, adding a dry richness to the tender flowers. Modern Muse is classified as a floral woody musk, and its meets each and every criteria for that, with an emphasis on the musk. The jasmine(s) are lovely enough, singing their duet accompanied by a floral ensemble, but to me it is the constant bass beat of musk, synthetic but just animalic enough to be interesting rather than off-putting, that brings this on home.
My first wear was almost all jasmine. My second wearing (resulting from a 1.5 ml vial spill/overdose) was jasmine and tuberoses to the extreme, with some vapory spices. My third wearing, sprayed from a tester bottle just three times, finally showed me its darker and slightly more interesting side a couple hours later. With each donning of this juice, she shows me a bit more of herself, making me fall for her just that much more. Yet she keeps her distance, while still enchanting me. Much like that ever elusive “Muse” sought after by so many creative types for inspiration, this perfume flashes in, burns brightly then fades more quickly than I imagine most would like. Clinging to you like a thought or pleasant daydream our Muse lingers, a sweet memory, just for us and those we let close enough to share it. Sillage: slightly below average. Longevity: fair to average.
Disclosure: Reviews based on samples and tester sprays from my local Estee Lauder counter.
–John Reasinger, Senior Editor