New Fragrance Review: D.S & Durga HYLNDS Foxglove + The Wandering of Oisin Draw

david seth moltz and kavi durga ds durga  cafleurebon

David Seth Moltz with Kavi Durga

It’s not a secret how much I adore D.S.& Durga; I think David Seth Moltz and his wife Kavi (Durga) Moltz have created one of the most exciting artisan lines of recent years. Based in Brooklyn the couple have stoked the scented fires of perfume addicts and writers like myself. I own Bowmakers, Mississippi Medicine and Burning Barbershop, three extraordinary formulae of erudite and chthonic reverence. Mud, smoke, cypress, shellac, seared limes, caramalised lavender, varnish and wood dust… all these things resonate through the Durga world.

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HYLNDS Perfume Montage Photo: The Silver Fox

For me there was always a sensation that David Moltz might develop and hone his Durga skills in new and exciting directions. This happened in 2003 with the release of HYLNDS, a trio of three quite remarkable eaux de parfums, Bitter Rose, Broken Spear, Isle Ryder and Pale Grey Mountain, Small Black Lake. Then came the gorgeous Spirit of the Glen, collaboration with the Glenlivet distillery in Speyside on the west coast of Scotland, a rich, swirling scent inspired by the accords and effects produced during the distillation of the Glenlivet 18 malt. There were obviously rich echoes of Durga in the new HYLNDS portfolio but this new collection smelled somehow more magical and richer in tone, paying homage to the veils hanging silently and secretly between our worlds and the next; most specifically in the northern European climes, in Celtic, Manx, Angle, Irish, Pict, Orcadian and Gaelic myths and traditions. Many of these cultures have powerful storytelling traditions obsessed with the travelling of love and desire across the shimmering voids.

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Photo: Foxglove flowers The Silver Fox

Foxglove is the latest addition to the HYLNDS line and I think it might be David Moltz’s most concealed and dazzling composition to date. It is a scent of vigil. The desolation of lonely attendance over a love lost to time. The perfume is inspired by the story of Oisin, the Irish warrior poet, his fairy lover Niamh and the mystical land of Tir Na Nog, the tempting Land Of Youth. Foxglove is Niamh, watching devotedly over the final resting place of her lyrical lover. David Moltz visited Oisin’s resting place and found a solitary foxglove about 20 feet from the grave. This lonely bloom, keeping vigil, was the catalyst for David’s perfumed imagination to wander, wonder and create.

You who are bent, and bald, and blind,


With a heavy heart and a wandering mind,

Have known three centuries, poets sing,

Of dalliance with a demon thing.

From Book I of ‘The Wanderings of Oisin’ by W B Yeats.

HYLNDS fox glove d.s &Durga cafleurebon

Photo: The Silver Fox

The story of poor doomed Oisin and his faithful love is the most wonderful inspiration for a HYLNDS scent. Reading the notes on paper, especially the suede, iris and peach skin lying deep in the base made me crave it. I knew it would be beautiful. The opening flare of citrus peel is just delicious, like sudden summer rain. It’s oddly wet too, damp with juice. Champaca lends radiance to the soft, supple suede. This note is hugely amplified by a muted mauve iris and to a certain degree by the weird carrot effect (from the Queens Ann Lace), which smells anisic and woody. It becomes obvious that Foxglove is something out of time, a masterly echo of classical French perfumery tenets.

It is the remarkable peach skin note that really wows in Foxglove. The odour of ripe peaches is one of life’s most sensual experiences, a scent like none other, heightened I think by the blush velveteen pelt of the fruit. No other fruit has the same sensation. In fragrance it is the luscious anchor of Mitsouko, Jacques Guerlain’s spicy essay in aching melancholia from 1919. Gucci’s porn-drenched trashy neon Rush is soaked in a incendiary peach effect thrown over the mix and then set on fire. Parfums Thierry Mugler used it beautifully in the heady dark cocoa flanker of Angel in the Le Goût du Parfum series in 2011. The peach added a much needed balance of tropical sweetness to the dense chocolate and caramel blend.

CAFLEUREBON FOXGLOVE  D S Durga

Digital Art: Michelyn Camen (Glitche)

Foxglove is remarkable, potent perfumery, radiant with originality, yet somehow manages to evoke a sense of vintage beauty and reverential echo. The projection and tenacity are both amazing; I fell asleep with it sprayed across feverish forearms and woke after eight fitful hours with the most wonderful skein of golden fuzzy lactonics and the remnants of soft malleable suede. I’m finding it hard to resist the obsessive wearing of this HYLNDS oddity, it has me utterly bewitched.

 Disclosure – From my own collection

HYLNDS Collection by D.S. & Durga is exclusive to Barneys New York  and also can be bought online D.S & Durga 30ml/ $180

– The Silver Fox, Senior Editor and Editor of The Silver Fox

d s and durga foxglove

Photo: D.S & Durga

Thanks to D.S. & Durga we have a 10ml hand decant of Foxglove for a US reader. To be eligible, please leave a comment as to what you found compelling about TSF’s review and your favorite D.S. & Durga Fragrance. Draw closes October 27, 2014 (Please note the winner will need to be patient as Seth will have to get a special sample made)

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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29 comments

  • The combination of sweet fruit and suede is compelling. It sounds like the perfect fall fragrance. US resident — thanks for the draw.

  • Everything about this scent sounds divine. I own Siberian Snow and LOVE it. Thanks for the draw. I live in the U. S.

  • That sounds complex, gorgeous, and amazing. I’m particularly taken by the peach/suede combo bolstered by iris and champaca. I definitely need to try this one! I’m in the US; thank you for the fabulous draw!

  • julesinrose says:

    I must admit I find everything The Silver Fox writes to be compelling!
    How can one resist a scent that is “remarkable, potent perfumery, radiant with originality?”
    My other admission is that I’ve never tried a DS & Durga scent, even though I’ve looked at their website many times and am besmitten with the descriptions. So, I’d love to try this! In the US. Cheers!

  • A “concealed [yet] dazzling composition” in the HYLNDS line? With iris and peach? I want it! My favorites are Isle Ryder and Spirit of the Glen (admittedly, those are the only ones I’ve tried so far). I’m in the US; thanks for the draw.

  • Wow. What a fun review to read. I’ve yet to smell any peach scents – and I’d love to give this a try. I think the backstory about Tir Na Nog is really interesting – it’s amazing the creativity these artists have. I’ve never tried a DS & Durga scent, though Spirit of the Glen also sounds like one I’d love to try. Thanks for the draw, I’m in the US!

  • What a lovely source of inspiration! I have smelled and enjoyed several other D.S. And Durga scents(Burning Barbershop and Boston Ivy) and would love the opportunity to give this one a try! Peach and apricot? Yum! I have a U.S. Mailing address. Thank you for the draw.

  • I love the story behind the perfume. How romantic! The description of the perfume is wonderfully haunting as well, and I didn’t know that Queen Anne’s lace had a smell! I am in the US, thank you.

  • Peach, suede AND a W.B. Yeats connection? Swoon! I have no familiarity with D.S. & Durga scents, but I’m very intrigued in the entire line. I live in the U.S. And now I need to go spray on something.

  • The Silver Fox writes beautifully of this beauty. Fortunately Barney’s carries HYLANDS so i headed there & bought their last bottle. It os like no other floral composition that I own.

  • Elizabeth T. says:

    I love the the notes suede, iris and peach skin. And a damp citrus top sounds intriguing. I absolutely LOVED Isle Ryder. I would love to sample more from this line and imagine I would be equally impressed with Foxglove! Thank you for the review and draw! I am in the US.

  • I haven’t tried anything from DS and Durga, unfortunately, but I love foxglove flowers and the listed notes sound beautiful Peach is one of my favorite notes. Also love suede and iris. I’m in the US.

  • A faithful love lost to time….. oh my! somehow this gets right into the heart of ME! Sounds bewitching and yet the comfort that I’m deeply in need of at this moment in time. BTW, Foxy congrats on the new roll of Senior Editor!!! I am in the US.

  • The line, “The desolation of lonely attendance over a love lost to time”, makes this a compelling try. Favorite Durga is Bowmakers. 🙂 USA

  • My favorite DS Durga is Poppy Rouge.
    I am really curious about his one as peach and Yeats together is an interesting Combo!
    Foxglove sounds amazing

  • I am intrigued by the review of this scent because of the allusion to vintage inspiration. My spouse has Pale Gray Mountain and it is one of my favorites for him to wear.

  • The description of fragrant dripping peaches makes me really want to try this. In fact, I must order samples of this whole line. I haven’t tried any of them yet, but they sound very creative.I am in the US.

  • I’m hoping this is dark and “unisex” along with being perfect for winter weather. I already like Boston Ivy. Live in U.S.

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    My curiosity arises from the fact that Silver Fox calls the fragrance melancholic and radiant at the same time as if it is a mourning scent and also a scent to cheer oneself. My favorite D.S. Durga creation is Burning Barbershop. Thanks for the generous gift. I am in Brooklyn, NY- US, just as the founders are.

  • I still haven’t tried any of the HYLNDS scents but did try some of the early D.S. & Durga perfumes. Grapefruit and another I can’t remember the name of. I liked them but wasn’t in to perfumes enough at the time to think I needed them. I live in the US and would love to try Foxglove as I love peach and, as always, the Silver Fox has tempted me. Thank you.

  • I have not tried any of the DS & Durga perfumes. This one sound intoxicating. I love peach and Champaca. Would also love to try Siberian Snow soon. Thank you for the draw

  • Peach skin and suede sound lovely together. I’ve never tried any DS & Durga fragrances, but now I want to. Thanks for the drawing! I’m in the US.

  • Cynthia Richardson says:

    I love the names of the fragrances and would enjoy experiencing how “mud, smoke, cypress, shellac, seared limes, caramalised lavender, varnish and wood dust” can be crafted into a fragrance. I have not yet had the pleasure of wearing a D.S. & Durga Fragrance.

  • The Silver Fox has described this scent beautifully. And the odor of ripe peaches is very sensual. There is nothing like it in the world. As soon as you cross the Georgia border during the summer, the air is filled with the aroma of sweet juicy Georgia peaches. It permeates the air and it smells wonderful! I cannot wait to smell this scent. I’m in the U.S. Thanks so much for the draw! I haven’t smelled anything from D&S Durga as of yet, but that can change.

  • I really enjoyed the sensual description of the peach skin note. I have yet to try a DS & Durga fragrance. In the U.S., thanks!

  • The description of the textures of the perfume really drew me in–fuzzy suede, peachskin pelt… I want to go read about Oisin now, the story behind the name is very touching. Havne’t tried a DS & Durga scent yet but Spirit of the Glen and Isle Ryder look like they could click with me.
    USA
    Thanks for the review and draw!