New Fragrance Review: Beaufort London Fathom V (Leo Crabtree) 2016 + Full Fathom Five Thy Father Lies Draw

reclamationsculptureandphotobyjasondecairestaylor

Reclamation, sculpture and photo by Jason deCaires Taylor

 

Full fathom five thy father lies;

Of his bones are coral made;

Those are pearls that were his eyes:

Nothing of him that doth fade,

But doth suffer a sea-change

Into something rich and strange.

Sea-nymphs hourly ring his knell:

Ding-dong.

Hark! now I hear them—Ding-dong, bell. — Ariel, The Tempest, William Shakespeare

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The Tempest, Metropolitan Opera, photo by Nichola Vachon

Breaking through the sea, currents dragging like sirens towards the rocks, a sudden great gasp of air. The crash of darkening surf, of brackened water, moist air under a glowering grey sky, of salt spray,  of the ocean in storm. This is the smell of shipwreck.  It is also, uncannily, the opening of Fathom V.

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The Tempest by Ivan Aivazosky, 1886

The fifth in Beaufort London’s Come Hell or High Water collection Fathom V is based loosely on Shakespeare’s great swansong, The Tempest. As the play begins, Prospero, deposed Duke of Milan and now magician, conjures a terrible storm which sinks the ship of his antagonists, forcing them to the isle which is now his dominion.  

mermaid-in-seaspray

Photo by Federico Bebber

Fathom V opens with radiant violence: a shock of frigid sea of shivering skin. My immediate reaction was a sense memory of being caught in an undertow in the Atlantic as a child. I have never encountered anything in perfumery that conveys so emotionally and accurately that first moment of coming up for air in an icy sea.

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Manchones Reef, sculpture by Jason deCaires Taylor

What emerges in the first few minutes are a potent drowned lily, simultaneously watery and fleshy, surfacing with indefinable, camphorous aquatic notes from which calone is absent. These elements begin to give way in the first stages of Fathom V’s development to mossy, deep green notes but return in waves throughout the perfume’s development. Stepping back and smelling Fathom V at this point is akin to watching waves breaking in the shoals; their force diminishes but remind again of their turbulent origins.

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Photo by Benjamin von Wong

Shakespeare’s Caliban and the plotters aboard the wrecked ship represent the muddy, baser elements of humanity, while the young couple Ferdinand and Miranda, who find tenderness amidst tragedy, show the redemptive path of love. Ariel, the spirit from whose song the perfume takes its name, becomes the unlikely reminder of the need for earthly compassion. Like its namesake, Fathom V contrasts dark and light elements. Fathom V combines its early saturated notes of freezing water and damp air with above-ground scents of wild nature and humanity. Where there is chill from the lily and aquatic notes, there is also warmth from pepper and cumin as the perfume expands. Where there is sea salt, there are the ground aromas of leaves and roots in the perfume’s middle stages.

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Full Fathom V by Jackson Pollock, 1947

In the next few minutes, a surprisingly human earthiness cuts through the bracing oceanic notes of the opening. The sunless green that emerges in the next few minutes is the living moss of the ocean’s floor, murky, velvety, tactile. In the middle stages, the contrasting elements in the perfume begin to merge, the changing movements of the sea. Moss and a very subtle vetiver create a dark green note that eddies around the lily and aquatic notes, like the menacing shadows of sea grass beneath the glass of the water’s surface. The lily note sings plaintively above their shadowy depths like Ariel’s song, its corporeal fleshiness warmed by the sweat of cumin.

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 Sculpture and photo by Jason deCaires Taylor

While The Tempest begins turbulently, it is a tale of metamorphosis and redemption, where opposing forces reconcile and magic is abandoned for prosaic human existence. While revenge is his initial motive, Prospero changes course. Aided by the spirit he keeps captive, Ariel, Prospero transforms from avenger to pardoner, from wizard to a man reconciled with his mortality. Ariel is returned to the air; Caliban to the earth where at last he becomes master of his island. The mariners retreat to the sea to carry them home, where as Prospero knows, every third thought will plot his death.

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Derek Jacobi as Prospero, photo Royal Shakespeare Company

The fathoms of the ocean wherein lie the wreckage of Prospero’s past give way to the fathoms of the earth, in which Prospero, breaking with enchantment, pledges to bury his magic.

But this rough magic

I here abjure, and when I have required

Some heavenly music, which even now I do,

To work mine end upon their senses that

This airy charm is for, I’ll break my staff,

Bury it certain fathoms in the earth,

And deeper than did ever plummet sound

I’ll drown my book.

Miranda - The tempest, by John William Waterhouse

Miranda The Tempest by John William Waterhouse, 1916

In its final stages, the oceanic notes of Fathom V recede like waves at low tide. While its coldness remains an undercurrent, its dominant notes transform from the ferocity of their opening into a gentler fragrance of mossy, leafy florals over which muted salt and spice hover like a misted sun. Our revels now are ended. 

Notes: earth, green leaves, aquatic notes, cumin, lily, black pepper, vetiver, moss, salt. Exceptional longevity and sillage.

– Lauryn Beer, Editor

Disclosure: I received my sample from Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary. Thank you.

beaufort-london-leo-crabtree

Leo Crabtree is the founder of Beaufort London draws his inspiration from Britian’s Nautical History

Editor’s Note: A Fathom is a unit of length equal to six feet, chiefly used in reference to the depth of water, connoting six feet under.  Fathom V was our Best of Show for new fragrance at the Tranoi Parfums NY Exhibition. You can read our reviews of Vi et Armis here and 1805 Tonnere here.

 

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Fathom V, photo Beaufort London

Thanks to the generosity of Leo Crabtree of Beaufort London, we have a 50 ml bottle of Fathom V  for one registered reader in the US, EU and Canada or thanks to Twisted Lily for our US readers, a sampler of all five fragrances Vi et Armis, 1805 Tonnere, Couer de Noir, Ligum Vitae and Fathom V

To be eligible please leave a comment with what appeals to you about Fathom V based on Lauryn’s review, if you have ever read or seen The Tempest performed; where you live and your choice of either sampler set or bottle should you win. Draw closes 10/14/2016.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

 

 

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45 comments

  • What a great review. I love this part: “Fathom V combines its early saturated notes of freezing water and damp air with above-ground scents of wild nature and humanity.” Shakespeare inspiration is a great idea, I’d love to try this perfume. I’d choose a bottle of Fathom V. I am in the EU.

    I’ve read “The Tempest” first at school (kind of being forced to do so) and, for the second time, as an adult, returning to Shakespeare of my own free will.

  • “I have never encountered anything in perfumery that conveys so emotionally and accurately that first moment of coming up for air in an icy sea.” Wow! sounds awesome… For many years, The Tempest is my favourite Shakespeare play.

    My choice would be a bottle. Thank you for the draw! I live in the U.S.

  • If the fragrance matches the story, it must be a really unique composition. I’ve never tried any perfume comparable to “the smell of a shipwreck” and I even can’t imagine its smell. My favorite part of the review are the photos of the sculptures by Jason deCaires Taylor. Awesome!
    I’d be very happy to get a bottle. Thank you! I live in Poland, EU.

  • Very interesting and nice review. I have never read or watched The Tempest. From the review Fathom V sounds amazing, my choice would be the full bottle. Thanks for the chance. I live in Europe.

  • Beautiful review! The opening sounds very intriguing. I really like the book and going to watch the movie.
    My choice is a a 50 ml bottle of Fathom V. Thank you! (EU)

  • Miss Almond says:

    Sounds absolutely stunning. I have to try it, I think Fathom is completely different from other aquatic fragrances.

    I’ve read the play years ago and watched a modern interpretation of The Tempest last year.

    I’d like a bottle if I win. Thanks for the draw! I live in Europe.

  • What a remarkable and evocative review.

    I’m a fan of the brand, but I’ve yet to sample this one. I dislike aquatics, but love green fragrances, so this might be the one that appeals to me.

    I have read The Tempest, but never seen it live. I should really address that.

    I live in Australia.

  • Excellent photos! I am very intrigued by Lauryn’s mention of the deep green mossy note, this is my colour and lately I’ve been craving a perfume to match. I saw the Tempest performed in Vancouver a few years ago, it was stunning. I live in Canada, thank you!

  • Beautifully written review! I have never seen or read The Tempest, but its melancholic drama is obvious in reading about it. The fragrance sounds haunting and mysterious. I’d love to try it! Ambergris is one of my favourite notes, in particular because of its saltiness, so I’m very curious about Fathom V. I live in Canada and my choice would be the bottle. Thank you.

  • Lauryn writes in such a beautiful literate style combining the fathom v fragrance review with passages of the Tempest which is one of my favorite Shakespeare plays
    My favorite is her description of the opening a shipwreck violence and shock
    I would love the bottle
    I live in the USA

  • I haven’t wanted this note mix with aquatic notes since I read about it some time back. Reading the review this sounds like something anything but linear. I read the Tempest in school never seen the play. Would love to win this bottle. USA

  • fazalcheema says:

    Fathom V seems to be clearly inspired by The Tempest as it has note to represent both the world above the ground as well as below the ground in the sea. It not only contains cool aquatic elements but also warm earthy elements. I did try to see the movie The Tempest but didn’t finish it because the Shakespearean language was too much for me. My choice will be the bottle of Fathom V . I am in the US.

  • I saw the Tempest years ago but am a bit foggy on the details. I loved this review and how it evoked feeling of being underwater, in the sea. Very nice review! I have not tried anything from this line, so I would enjoy trying the sampler. Thanks . US

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    What a wonderful review. It looks “The Tempest” was written for Fathom V.
    The smell of shipwreck in absence of calone with a tone of lily, mossy & salty freshness. The transformation from the initial to the dry down is tempting and my favorite note oakmoss with freshness. Never try any of Beaufort London perfumes.
    Thanks to the generosity of Leo Crabtree of Beaufort London & the opportunity provided by Cafleurebon to participate by giving my relative address residing in NY. My choice definitely is 50 ml bottle of Fathom V.

  • Iuno Feronia says:

    Wow! While reading the Review I gasped for air, I almost could feel this perfume. Thanks a lot, also for some Shakespear in the morning ;-)) I am a real Shakespearean fan, I have read all of him.

    Thanks for the draw, I live in the EU.

  • Descriptions like icy sea, mossy, deep green notes, turbulent, damp air are exciting and make me want to try this scent. I have never read or seen The Tempest performed, this the first time I’m hearing about it. I would like to win the bottle; I live in Europe.

  • Lauryn’s review has sparked my interest on this amazing contrast of light and dark. I’ve never read or watched The Tempest.
    I live in Europe and my choice would be a bottle. Thank you!

  • hugogrotius says:

    As always Lauryn reviews are amazing: so complex, so opulent and so vivid. I really enjoyed Lauryn’s remark on how this perfume smells like shipwreck. That must’ve been quite and experience- I would love to experience it myself. As I wasn’t educated in UK, I am not so familiar with all of the Sheakespeare’s work: I do know Hamlet, Midsummer Nights Dream, Makbeth and his sonnets. I live in Poland, EU
    Thank you for the draw!

  • marcopietro says:

    Great review! What evocative and engaging description! The references to the stormy sea and Shakespeare’s play are vivid and fascinating. Another fragrance with strong character by Beaufort that I must try absolutely.
    I live in EU.
    Thanks!

  • Fathom V sounds like a great perfume: another winner for me, because only such good Quality products can make some( Lauryn I’m looking at you) write such fantastic review. Congrats! I am truly fascinated with this whole antagonism going on in Fathom V.
    I have seen the Tempest staged for the polish TV. It was wonderful.
    I live in the EU. Thanks

  • Breaking through the sea, currents dragging like sirens towards the rocks, a sudden great gasp of air. The crash of darkening surf, of brackened water, moist air under a glowering grey sky, of salt spray, of the ocean in storm. This is the smell of shipwreck. It is also, uncannily, the opening of Fathom V.
    This alone triggers my curiosity!! It sounds mysterious and different from anything else and that is exactly what i like in my hunt for new gems!
    I have never seen or read The Tempest but am triggered for that too. So on my “want to do” list 😉

    I live in the Netherlands and thank you!

  • This was a wonderful review! I read the Tempest in college in a course on Shakespeare. Unfortunately, I have never seen it. The imagery that accompanied the article was also really great too. This is what intrigued me the most about Fathom V from Lauryn’s review: “Fathom V opens with radiant violence: a shock of frigid sea of shivering skin. My immediate reaction was a sense memory of being caught in an undertow in the Atlantic as a child. I have never encountered anything in perfumery that conveys so emotionally and accurately that first moment of coming up for air in an icy sea.” My choice would be the full bottle. I live in the US and thanks for the draw! 🙂

  • Great review! I have read the Tempest at the secondary school (translated to my language). I love fragrance description “Fathom V contrasts dark and light elements. Fathom V combines its early saturated notes of freezing water and damp air with above-ground scents of wild nature and humanity. Where there is chill from the lily and aquatic notes, there is also warmth from pepper and cumin…” And I love a note that Fathom has an exceptional longevity and sillage. Thanks! I am in EU.

  • I’m not really a big fan of aquatic scents but this one sounds absolutely lovely! I read The Tempest when I was in my early teens and I remember being sucked into it completely.

    I would love to win the full bottle. Thank you! USA

  • Fathom V sounds intriguing because most f the aquatic perfumes I know are light, fresh and optimistic, whether this one sounds much more intense and even dangerous (or is it just the unsettling pictures and the spirit of a Shakespearean play?) Anyway, I’d love to try it and I’d like a bottle if I win. Thank you for so interesting recommendation! I live in the EU.

  • concertslover says:

    For some reason reading this keeps reminding me o the Rhyme of The Ancient Mariner poem. Talking about the depths of the ocean and the name Fathom is reminiscent. I haven’t had such a green aromatic type fragrance in a long time. Id like to try it just to be sure it is not a little to much on the floral side. The patchuli, tangerine and cedar blend strikes me as an interesting mix. Thanks for the draw.
    From USA

  • This sounds lovely. Always looking for a great, salty fragrance…and you this review had me at “mossy”. I’m in Arizona and would love to give this (and the others from the line) a try.

  • cinnamon tree says:

    I love the review and the fact that this perfume have The Tempest as an inspiration. I can’t imagine its smell, sounds interesting but very complex. I’d love to win a bottle and lose myself in this underwater world. I live in the EU and thank you for the draw!

  • Sounds great and so British – in a best possible sense! I like the idea of a fragrance series being inspired by British history. I look forward to try Fathom.

    I’ve watched The Tempest years ago, now I want to see or read it again.

    Thanks for the draw! I’d like a full bottle. I live in the EU.

  • I have never read The Tempest but now I want to. Both the play and the perfume sound very inspiring. I like the notes, especialy cumin,moss, and black pepper. Thank you for this review. I live in the EU and my choice would be the bottle of Fathom V.

  • mmmmadmichal says:

    Although the winter is coming and I am bracing myself iit is always very good to have a perfume that would antagonize current situation. I find Lauryn’s review to be simply great! I like that fathom V represents “scents of wild nature and humanity”. A huge thank you for everyone for the draw. I live in EU- so I would like a full bottle and I have not seen the play yet!

  • This house sounds wonderful. I’ve been on a salt kick and am intrigued by the idea of a cold seawater salt perfume. I’m in the USA and would like a full bottle of Fathom V should I be selected.

    I read The Tempest in college and it made me sad that my first introduction to Shakespeare was high school’s Julius Caeser.

  • What an evocative review! So much is suggested here: shivering skin, drowned lily, mossy notes, breaking waves, leaves, roots, human earthiness…. I need to try this fragrance for sure.
    I have read The Tempest, always loved it.
    I would choose the 50ml bottle.
    I live in the USA.

  • I love the review, I think it shows the spirit of “The Tempest” better than many performances. I haven’t smelled Beaufort fragrances but I am so fascinated by this review I can’t wait to try them and I’d like a bottle. I am in the EU, thank you for the draw.

  • I have never smelled any Beaufort scent but this one inspired in the violent nature and the work of one of the most important writers is appealing to me, moss, black pepper, earthiness, lily…sounds delicious!
    I live in EU and I would choose the 50ml bottle.

  • Thank you all so much for the comments. The Tempest is one of my favourite plays, with such sad, lyrical poetry. he photo of Derek Jacobi is from the greatest production I have seen yet of it — 1982, the RSC, with Mark Rylance as Ariel and the late great Bob Peck as Caliban. For those who need an introduction to the play, I recommend Derek Jarman’s beautiful, weird film from the 1980s. But nothing beats seeing it in the theatre!

  • Great read! I’d love to try this “scent of wild nature and humanity” although I haven’t read The Tempest yet. But it sounds as interesting as the fragrance. I live in Europe and I’d love to get the bottle. Thanks!

  • Wayne Hollander says:

    I’ve had my eye on this house for a few months (thanks to Cafleurebon!) and this sounds wonderful. I’m interested in experiencing the salt and the sea – without the calone, as was very pointedly mentioned! I have never read “The Tempest,” perhaps it’s time? I love the way the review used it to portray the development of the perfume. I live in NYC – thanks for the chance!

  • Ah, to dive into this stormy sea of scent… the experience must be beautiful. I love the smell of wet moss and this is the most interesting aquatic perfume ever. Not an easy one, that’s obvious, but I’m sure it’s worth trying. I’d choose a bottle. Thank you for so fascinating read.

    (EU)

  • Wow amazing review the pictures are just crazy there are so much emotions and passion! I’m a fan of oceanic notes most of them are sunny and bright this one seems to be darker and deeper and I would like to have it in my collection.

  • Wow amazing review the pictures are just crazy there are so much emotions and passion! I’m a fan of oceanic notes most of them are sunny and bright this one seems to be darker and deeper and I would like to have the bottle in my collection.
    EU

  • I love the review. It was a real pleasure to read it and the choice of pictures is amazing (Jackson Pollock was a genius and I’m happy to see his painting linked to this perfume). I’d love to try Fathom V. I live in the EU.

  • The eerie imagery drew me in to this review. Fathom V sounds unlike anything else in my collection. I played the part of Ariel in an elementary school production of the tempest when I was in the 5th grade, but I haven’t seen a professional production! I’d love to win the bottle. I’m in the US, thanks for the draw.