Azzaro Paris has done the unthinkable. With the recent release of Chrome United, it has in my opinion outflanked the original. No one was more surprised than I when I spritzed on the newest iteration of the classic 1996 Chrome and found myself surrounded by something akin to the original, yet infinitely darker drier and more intriguing. I have often wondered why there were never (or hardly any) releases of “noir” aquatics. Instead of another slightly tweaked sunny bright aquatic, this is a sharper cooler more laid-back evening moonlight type of nautical.
Chrome, amazing for its time and a classic today, was more the citrus aromatic that had fruity undertones and more floral notes than spices. The only thing even vaguely recognizable from the 1996 original is the tea note, adding freshness and a robust leafiness, and the clean but musky drydown. Where each and every flanker in this line thus far has concentrated more on the bright and the brilliant, Chrome United is more of a green woody spicy aroma that captures the shadowy darker side of the sea.
The sparse but pungent opening of bergamot’s cooling blast is tempered with Sichuan pepper and herbaceous coriander seed. A dry but effervescent beginning gives way to a lush juicy green heart balanced by strong black Indian (Ceylon) tea. Chrome United is already as brisk as the night air, damp as it is with salty sea spray and all around the warm late summer ocean air rushes past you. Verdant violet leaves and black tea create almost gossamer floral harmonies dissipating and recurring softly throughout its development.
As this settles and calms upon the skin, it continues to radiate a relaxing calming woody green that is strange and striking, yet familiar and slightly savory. The normally watery leaves of the violet have been calmed and somewhat, sharpened by the tannins in the tea, but add freshness to the otherwise darker richer smelling tea. After all is said and done, this lingers on indefinitely as a clean slightly green aura that has wisps of subtle sweetness with just the right amount of white musk seeping into warm cedar wood. With a rather formulaic note list, this scent far surpasses a great many mainstream fragrance releases exuding both a streamlined sensibility and compelling charisma.
Chrome United was meant to reflect good times spent relaxing with close friends. I personally can’t think of anywhere more relaxed and at the same time as exciting as sailing through the night, under the moon and stars accompanied by a crew of your closest friends and loved ones, straight onward into the approaching dawn. This more modern take on the original is classy and confident, while remaining unpretentious and down-to-earth. Here we have a rather superb retooling of a classic scent, with definite modern watermarks, that take the whole line in a new and exciting direction. For once, the news of a new blue/aquatic flanker has put a good strong wind in my perfumed sails. Sillage: good then closer. Longevity: good.
Disclosure: Review based on bottle sent to me by Azzaro Paris via Clarins Fragrance Group USA
Thanks to Azzaro we have a full bottle of Azzaro Chrome United to giveaway. This is a US only draw. To be eligible leave a comment naming your favorite chrome thing. The draw will end September 22, 2013.
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-John Reasinger, Senior Editor