NEW FRAGRANCE REVIEW Atelier Cologne Ambre Nue + The Dark Side ( 200ml ) Draw

For all that a person craves the light there is an almost unnatural fascination with the dark. In the light you see everything laid out before you. The dark conceals things. You can’t tell where things end. All you can see is the beginning and if you take that first step into the dark you’re never sure if you’ll take the second step.

Easily one of my favorite new lines of fragrance is Atelier Cologne. The original five fragrance collection was all about light. They burst into life and turned the idea of cologne as something light and inconsequential upside down. Like anything I was curious to see whether the line could explore the dark as effectively. Last year Vanille Insensee was the first step into the dark and it was a sure-footed step at that. Even so I wanted more dark. I wanted a set of yang to go with the original five yins. When I met Sylvie Ganter, one half of the team behind Atelier Cologne, I told her just that. She reached into her purse and brought out a lab sample and asked me if this was what I was talking about. From the moment she placed a dab on my skin, I kept sniffing it; and realized this was exactly what I meant. Cologne architecture using bold heady notes. That day back in April this fragrance didn’t have a name. Today it is the brand-new seventh Atelier Cologne release Ambre Nue by perfumer Ralf Schweiger.

One of the things I truly enjoy about the entire Atelier Cologne aesthetic are these little stories they use to accompany each fragrance. Here is the one for Ambre Nue:

“We were staying in the mountains when we met them. She told us about a mysterious flower. He told us where we might find it. The next morning, near the top of the crest, in a moment, a scent seduced us. It was so unexpected and magical: a single flower capturing the wildest ambery bouquet.”

Ralf Schweiger pulls off a neat trick here as a fragrance named Ambre Nue has no amber as a distinct note in it but the notes that are present create an amber accord, an ambery bouquet if you will, and in that construction makes Ambre Nue something to be admired.

The opening of Ambre Nue is like the dying of the light as a very distinct green mandarin mixes with a slightly astringent floral marigold. It is an opening of sharp angles like the last rays of the sun as it slips beneath the horizon. The night begins in the heart with a delicate green orchid which is quickly dominated with hot benzoin and even hotter cinnamon. These are powerhouse notes harnessed expertly by M Schweiger. I think this might be one of the best cinnamon notes I’ve encountered in a fragrance and the benzoin is a near perfect foil for the cinnamon. The heart is a piquant black hole which holds me firm in its event horizon. At that balancing point between heart and base is where the amber accord appears. The base notes are labdanum, patchouli, and tonka and they combine with the heart to make up the components of M Schweiger’s bouquet. The labdanum and the patchouli are the main players but over time the tonka becomes more pronounced as Ambre Nue doesn’t want to leave you alone in the dark at the end.

Ambre Nue has above average longevity and average sillage. This has been the typical experience for me with these Cologne Absolutes from Atelier Cologne. Amber Nue is at an 18% concentration and that is where the longevity and sillage come from, I believe.

Ambre Nue is that second step into the dark I wanted to see from Atelier Cologne as it is definitely yang to the previous yin. Now I think I need to corner Mme Ganter at the upcoming Elements Showcase and ask her what’s in her purse. I think it will be very hard to be better than Ambre Nue, although I am hoping for another yang.

Disclosure: This review was based on samples purchased from Luckyscent.

Thanks to our friends at Atelier Cologne we have a very special draw of one 200mL bottle of Ambre Nue. To be eligible leave a comment telling us what you like about the dark. We will draw one winner using random.org on January 21, 2012.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilt perfume

–Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

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77 comments

  • Claudia says:

    I tried a little sample of this and will say, this one is a winner. Dark and quiet go hand in hand for me….the dark is relaxing and calming in many ways.

  • Cheesegan says:

    What I like about the dark are the stars. I love watching the constellations march across the sky and to see the moon rise and set. There is nothing like looking up at a beautiful night sky to realize how big the universe is and how small you are in it. I find this very comforting.

  • brooke says:

    I have been looking forward to this release. I find the dark to be most soothing – contemplative, a time to decompress, an escape from the fast-paced technology filled day.

  • Feliciag says:

    What dont I like about the dark? I love the mystery of it the possibilities of it, what lies ahead of it, walking through it and sleeping in it.
    I love Dark Side of The Moon by the way start the track at the second lions roar for those who know about the Wizard of Oz and Pink Floyd connection;)
    Anyway, darkness is romantic and mysterious. Even emoitionally speaking. It is said to be a void but I think of it as a start a new begining. Its always darkest before dawn.
    I would enjoy trying Ambre Nue. Anything associated with the dark has got to be awesome;)
    Floyd, is on point!
    The dark cares not for you or of you. But you must caution it.
    Thanks to Cafleurebon and also to Atelier for this draw which I am doing in the dark the moonlight on my shoulder.

  • Carlos Powell says:

    I am NOT ashamed to admit that I am still to this day, AFRAID of the dark. I always sleep with something on…TV, Ipod, etc. To much dark and quiet, my creative mind starts……..THINKING, Thinkin, thin….

  • Cynthia says:

    Ambre Nue sounds intriguing. When I sleep my room has to be absolute dark. Any bit of light leaking through disturbs my sleep One of the best sleeps I ever got…in Amsterdam in one of those on site pod hotels. It was the middle of the day but inky black, I couldn’t see my hand six inches in front of my face. Lovely sleep!

  • Tama says:

    I like the dark – it is when my brain wakes up. Too bad it is also when I am supposed to sleep. But I also like to dream, so it works out..

    I want to try this – not a one of the Ateliers has really worked on my skin. Maybe this will be The One!

  • harper says:

    there are so many ways to answer the question —
    but the thing that comes to mind most insistently for me is simply this:

    the stars.

    the stars in a dark dark sky of night….

  • Lindaloo says:

    I love Vanilla Insensee. It’s not sweet and a “cologne architecture” always works well on me. Your review of Amber Nue is so appealing: marigold is a bitter touch I really like and I’m definitely looking for a good spice and am curious to experience this cinnamon, and how the tonka modifies the patch and labdanum in the base.

    As for the dark, I find that it forces it me to slow down, to stop using my sense of sight and instead to listen, to breathe more slowly and deeply, and to accept rather than to seek.

    Thanks for the interesting review and for the draw opportunity.

  • Sandi L says:

    I love the dark because with it at my house comes the quite. It gives me time to reflect, problem solve without distractions. Time to rest and restore which I am so grateful for.

  • Alica says:

    All the truth comes out in quietude, darkness when everybody sleeps. Then you suddenly know how the things are, it’s very special moment. I like darkness, especially in the miiddle of night when I seek for problem solution. I usually find it. Thanks for opportunity.

  • Irina says:

    wonderful post-all the things I love, from the best Pink Floyd to black holes-thank you
    Dark is the promise of light and being a Scorpio I like dark – it stimulates my mind, it encompasses all the possibilities

  • Jan says:

    There are things that can only happen in the dark. This may be due to the confidence that the lack of accusing daylight gives. Some beautiful, forbidden creatures emerge when the sun sets. Empires can be destroyed during the night. Some artists have inspiration only after dark. It is another realm, with its own rules…

  • Karen says:

    I’ve always been a dreamer. As a child, I didn’t mind going to bed. I loved the stage of the lights going off, I’d put my covers over my head, and just listen to my own mind and fantasize about the possibility of everything.

  • RM says:

    Like another commentator said above, I also need complete dark to be able to sleep. It’s also the best ‘thinking’ time for me – no visual distractions and total silence. Everything seems much quieter at night.

  • Laurentiu says:

    I like darkness because it is a hiding place of my thoughts. I always feel relaxed when outside or wherever I am is darkness.
    Thanks for the giveaway.

  • Tara says:

    I like the dark when I am inside and I can close the blinds and shut the world out. It’s time to curl up in bed with a good book. I like darkness in perfume because it adds depth, interest and sometimes danger. Perfumes without even a hint of the dark can be a little bland – although there is a time for everything.

    Many thanks to you and the lovely people at Atelier Cologne for the draw.

  • Svitlana says:

    I think the dark helps us concentrate on the taste, odor, thought. It is easier to collect our thoughts, to detect the odor, taste when we close our eyes, nothing diverts our attention from the main point in the dark.

  • Jules says:

    I’m most definitely more an admirer of the “dark” rather than the “light”. (Although both certainly have a place). When it’s dark is when I come to life and am at my best. All things interesting, mysterious and thrilling come from the dark side. “Light” is just far too bland and “goody-two-shoes” for me. ;o) … I mean let’s say life was a Disney cartoon, where would we be without the intrigue, wit, camp humour, danger, majesty, and pure entertainment value of the villainous “dark” characters ? They’re always the best part ! …
    ~ (Please enter me into the draw. Thank you !)

  • Jade says:

    What I like about the dark is the fact that when faced with it, your other senses come alive; being robed of sight, you learn to rely on smell, touch and sound.

  • Vanessa says:

    Wow, a “piquant dark hole” sounds like a must sniff! I like the dark because candles only look atmospheric at night, and as Tara said, I like a bit of a darker edge to perfumes sometimes.

  • Ines says:

    I love how dark somehow makes me feel safe and cocooned after a hard day. Dark is when all the most restful things in my life happen so I cannot but feel relaxed and myself during the dark hours.

  • Rockinruby says:

    I love the quietness and solitude of night. I love walking along deserted city streets that bustle by day, or stepping out in the country under a blanket of the brightest stars you’ve ever seen.

  • Ursula says:

    I associate an amber scent with a darker color. The “night” can be warm within the dark shadows.

    I am curious about that scent.

  • jsut breathe says:

    The dark is the unknown and the potential for any possibility…I love that 🙂

    I tried Orange Sanguine not too long ago and LOVED it. i think I will fall head over heals for Ambre Nue as well.

    Thanks for the draw!

  • brigitte says:

    The dark is part of my morning routine for three seasons of the year. From fall to spring I stand on my deck at 5am gazing at a vast and pitch black sky that is filled with a multitude of stars and often lit by a full moon. At least three times this year I have witnessed a shooting star. This ritual always leaves me with a sense of awe, wonder and appreciation for all that is.

    Atelier always does magic. I am sure that Ambre will be magical too. Thank you for this generous draw!

  • AubreyZ says:

    Wow. I haven’t tried this one yet but you make it sound incredible.

    Has everyone tried the Atelier bar soaps? They are well worth it– one bar of the Grand Neroli lasted 6 months in the shower, and it is the most pleasant smell to wake up to each morning. It may be my favorite bar of soap ever!

    regarding the dark– I love the way it envelops you in quiet. Nothing is better than when it gets dark and cloudy during the day from a dark storm, and everything sloooowwwsss doooooowwwwnn. Doesn’t it feel like life is moving super fast to everyone? It’s nice when it’s calm.

    Atelier- please continue to come out with great scents!

  • Gypsy Parfumista says:

    The darkness envelops the unknown, and cloaks mysteries. It is only by walking through the dark and facing our fears that we reach and appreciate the light.

    As a child I was quite frightened by the dark until I spent my first night in the woods. A whole world of sounds, scents and sensations opened up to me. When you rely on light (and sight), you can be fooled! Being in the shadows helps you to hone and refine your other senses.

    A whole world of mystery is opened when you embrace the darkness. The night is infinitely more intriguing to me and I , for one, cannot wait to try this newest Cologne Absolute from Atelier. Thanks for the great piece Mark AND to Atelier for the wonderful prize!!

  • shellyw says:

    The dark brings quiet. peace time to think about the things hidden in the dark… In other words a change of focus.

  • Lisa A says:

    I love the quiet dark, especially on a spring evening when the stars are out and the crickets are chirping. Nighttime is relaxing for me.

  • Robert C says:

    Nothing mysterious or sublime about my love of the dark: darkness for me means sleep- a precious quantity when you have small children.

  • Sujaan says:

    One of my favorite things to do is take a walk in the dark. I grew up in the country where it was extremely dark at night. Taking walks at night was like being invisible. I loved that! Now I live in Manhattan where every street is somewhat lit at night in varying degrees, however my nighttime walks are still wonderful but in a different way. I love seeing the apartment windows lit up and because we are all desperate to make the most of our square footage, it is always interesting to catch glimpses of how other people design their space.
    Amber Nue sounds so intriguing, from the notes I cannot even conjure up what this will be like in person. I look forward to trying it.

  • Anna in Edinburgh says:

    What I love about the dark is being wrapped up and cosy and listening to the wind in the trees and any wild weather outside. I’ve always loved that sense of being comfortable and safe because, on the other side of the glass and wall and door, all hell is breaking loose in the darkness!

  • Arthur says:

    I like that the dark can provoke so many different reactions and emotions in people — anxiety or fear, excitement or exhilaration, tranquility or peace — the same way an interesting perfume can! I’d love to try Ambre Nue. The cinnamon-benzoin heart sounds fantastic for winter, and for me, you can’t go wrong with a patchouli-labdanum drydown.

  • Ccc says:

    I love light with 2 exceptions: in clothes and fragrances. And I love dark in them because it gives them personality, depth, mystery and elegance.
    Ambre Nue sounds just right. Dark. As I like it.

    Thank you.

  • Monica H. says:

    There is comfort in the dark.. but I really like the dark because it brings out the light in contrast~

  • Kristi says:

    When I think of the dark and fragrance, what I like most is the quiet, the stillness of it. The comfort, there’s a snuggle factor involved somehow. The dark scents make me feel like I’m in the most comfortable room, on the most comfortable couch, wrapped in a chenille throw, ready to devour a delicious book while eating the most decadent of chocolate.

  • JessieB says:

    I love Vanille Insensee as well; I had to have it. On this…I love dark that is light, like a moonlit night. There’s something magical about that kind of light that makes me feel very alive indeed.

  • ololiuqui says:

    In the dark we can’t see,but with disappearing of the light the other scenses are sharper.It’s time to be with yourself and your imagination.

  • MariaA says:

    What I love most of the dark is the silence that comes with it, sometimes so intense you can hear your own heart beating.

  • d3m0lici0n says:

    The dark always invite you to be in a reflexive mode, always when you are in the dark you start thinking more and your other senses become more active. Just looking at the dark sky and contemplating the stars is an awesome experience.

  • ana says:

    i like the dark because it’s soft and sensual and quiet. i like that your mind is more calm and focused:the noise dies down and your thoughts are sharper and clearer.

  • Olga says:

    I would love to try this one, and I have a feeling that even 200 ml wouldn’t be too much based on Mark’s description!
    I am, too, fascinated with the dark. One of my favorite things about the dark is that it changes things. What looks one way in the light, looks different in the dark, and the same goes with the sounds. The same, in fact, goes with the smells!
    One of my favorite quotes about dark comes from a magician in a story written by G.K. Chesterton, “Everything is different in the dark[…]Perhaps you don’t know how terrible a truth that is. All you see are pictures made by the sun, faces and furniture and flowers and trees. The things themselves may be quite strange to you. Something else may be standing now where you saw a table or a chair. The face of your friend may be quite different in the dark.”
    That is what I love about the dark. Everything is different in the dark, it is a whole new world only a few of us choose to know.

  • Nina Z says:

    I love smelling perfume in the dark, so every night before I go to bed I put on “nighttime perfume,” something deep and rich. Then as I fall asleep (and when I wake in the middle of the night), I can inhale a beautiful fragrance as I drift off. (This fragrance sounds dreamy–did you say CINNAMON?)

  • Lynne1962 says:

    The dark is mysterious and comforting! I also associate “dark” with Melancholic music. I love minor key pieces,,,and used to listen to dark classical in college when I studied! I like dark roses in perfume, more than light ones. Bring on the dark—and thanks for the draw!!

  • shannon says:

    I love the dark night sky in winter … just past a fiery sunset, the darkness is like velvet-y ink. Stars are the most brilliant diamonds known to man, scattered across the blackness. I could stare at the sight for hours, mesmerized. I do my best thinking then.

  • dissed says:

    There’s something about the dark that seems safe and warm, even in winter. It’s . . . private. As if I’m alone, and everything is mine.

  • Suzy Q says:

    I like how quiet it is at night, late, in the dark. It’s especially nice with a dark beer or deep red wine.

  • Evgeniy says:

    Darkness changes things – it brings depth and mistery to things that are simple and usual at daytime))

  • Ragna says:

    Darkness gives my sense of sight a break and allows my other senses a chance to heighten.
    I love to walk at night without any artificial light around…just the stars and moon.

  • Bridget B says:

    Dark can be peaceful, heavy, spooky and confusing. I’m so curious if that’s how this fragrance comes across, like the dark side of the moon?

  • David W says:

    I like the disorientation and loss of the familiar… Everything seems hyper-real and dreamlike at the same time.

  • naheed says:

    As long as things are in dark they remain mystery and probably that’s the reason that when the element of darkness comes into fragrances, it makes a mysterious statement for the wearer.

  • Isa says:

    Dark allows us to enjoy of some of the most fascinating things in life: fireworks, shooting stars, a quiet movie theater with just the brightness of the screen, beautiful skylines…

    And complete darkness is relaxing and we can think clearer, and it is calming when our head aches. Darkness makes us experience the world with the other senses, like smell or touch.

  • mim says:

    Ambre Nue sounds delectable!

    I like the dark…in so many ways, for so many reasons.

    I like ‘dark side of the moon’ and so does my mom, whose album I ‘borrowed’ in high school!

    Dark and deep colors look a lot better on me than pastels and brights, and I think I enjoy looking at them more generally.

    To me, darkness is less about mystery and more about depth.

    I like how the absence of light, of visual input, heightens all other senses. For me, esecially sound. I love listening to the rain in bed at night.

    I love the night, when the world is quieter, and also the ‘darker’ more melancholy or contemplative kinds of music. I even prefer notes in fragrance that are often considered ‘darker’ (patchouli, woods, resins, spices etc) as opposed to bright, cheerful notes like most florals and many fruits.

    I like how darkness has depth that allows one to perceive vastness, distance, as in the night sky, and highlights by contrast: the Milky Way (not visible in the cities, but visible when we go camping, and leave our flashlights off to take walks at night); diamonds, like stars, seem to sparkle more brilliantly on deepest velvet.

    I like how in the dark, everyone looks the same…

  • Amer says:

    In the dark one loses one’s self and transcends limitations set upon them by the physical body. The scents of night are smelled by the pores of the skin more than by the nose. They permeate all and awaken the senses. For the true perfume lover entering the night is like a state of lycanthropy. All perfumes have their roots in a night somewhere.

  • Maureen says:

    I like how darkness envelops you like a warm blanket. In the winter I like “darker ” fragrances that envelop you as the darkness does. I would love to try this Ambre Nue…thanks.

  • Andy Thornton says:

    Sometimes you just want to wear something dark. I used to own a great leather jacket that was like a second skin. When I put it on, it made me feel warm and comfortable, I loved that jacket. The same can be said of a good dark cologne.

  • Eva S says:

    At night when everything is quiet and peaceful the darkness wraps around me like a blanket and I can relax.

  • Holly F. says:

    I used to find my solace under the night’s cloak of darkness- honestly, that’s even how I thought of it in my head! In the past couple of years, especially since my daughter was born, I’ve lightened up a bit. But, I still think one of the coziest times of the year is when we “fall back” and turn the clocks back an hour. I may be one of the few who actually cherish that extra hour of darkness.

  • Candice says:

    I love when it’s dark, son is asleep and I can just relax and think about the day without distraction. Thanks for the draw!

  • Haunani says:

    I’m just catching up here. Not sure if I’m in time for the draw, but please enter me if I am! The dark? I’m very drawn to two dark colors: indigo and deep purple, partly because they set off my favorite color of yellow-orange. 🙂

  • DrK says:

    I would like to be a part in the endless darkness of the space and I would like to see how it is to observe the point light, the Earth, from space. That’s what I imagine when the word “dark” appears in my mind. Thanks for the giveaway.