New Perfume Review: Le Labo Santal 33: Ride ‘Em Cowboy (and Cowgirl) + “Deadwood” Draw

 

Cowboy by BJ Richmond at fineartamerica.com

 

Pop Culture during the late 50’s and 60’s was filled with catch phrases from cigarette manufacturers. “I’d rather fight than switch”, “You’ve come a long way baby”, “I’d walk a mile for a Camel”. Now if you’re a Gen X’er or a Millennial you probably wouldn’t know any of those phrases as they haven’t held their place in the popular gestalt. One cigarette advertising icon has survived to this day and has never really fully disappeared from the scene since its debut in 1955, The Marlboro Man. Say “Marlboro Man” and the imagery that is conjured up is that of a rugged cowboy at work on the ranch lighting up a cigarette after a hard day at work. As a kid, when smoking was more prevalent, my friends who smoked all smoked Marlboro because it was the brand that was considered cool.

 

 

The Marlboro Man was the source of inspiration for the newest addition to the Le Labo classic perfume collection, Santal 33. Santal 33 was released at all Le Labo stockists on May 1 and that just happened to coincide with the Sniffapalooza Spring Fling 2011 visit to the SoHo Le Labo store on that day. We had received the press release before our trip and here is the note list:

Australian sandalwood, papyrus, cedarwood, cardamom, iris, violet, ambrox and leather accord.

It was that next to last ingredient that tempered my anticipation as we approached the door. The last two exclusive releases by Le Labo also used ambrox. AnOther 13 was all about ambrox and because of that I was not a big fan. Baie Rose 26 was much better because the ambrox was kept under control and didn’t force its way into my consciousness. Instead it played nice with the rest of the notes and made for another memorable Le Labo release. What was Santal 33 going to be? Ambrox as the star or ambrox as a supporting player. The answer in the case of Santal 33 is ambrox appears hardly at all on my skin.

 

 

The opening volley of Santal 33 is a fusillade of smooth cardamom partnered with sharp violet and metallic iris. This works as a study in contrast as the zesty spice of cardamom counters the violet and gives the iris room to expand. It is here where the ambrox makes its appearance on me and it is so muted on my skin it feels like a drive-by. Now, one special aspect of trying new fragrances at Sniffapalooza is I was surrounded by a bunch of test subjects and on one perfumista’s wrist, in particular, the ambrox was present in all of its scenery chewing glory. So while my experience was nearly ambrox free your experience might vary. The sandalwood arrives and the Australian variety adds a dry austere feel of Sandalwood appropriate for a fragrance inspired by the American West. Papyrus and cedar give the sandalwood a little fresher feel than normal without pushing it too far in that direction. The base gets animalic as leather, most prominently, and musk close Santal 33 off with a very rugged feel.

Santal 33 has excellent longevity and above average sillage.

 

 Calamity Jane

Even though Santal 33 is inspired by a very masculine icon, Santal 33 is a very unisex fragrance. The top notes, with the sharp floral aspects, really do keep this right in the middle of the gender divide. Instead of focusing on the masculinity of the inspiration of Santal 33 I think one should instead focus on the individuality embodied by The Marlboro Man. Le Labo has always displayed an iconoclastic idea of perfumery and Santal 33 fits that aesthetic perfectly. While you won’t catch me lighting up a Marlboro after a hard day’s work, it is very likely you might find me spritzing Santal 33 as I relax in the evening.

Disclosure: This review was based on a sample of Santal 33 supplied by Le Labo.


Thanks to Le Labo we have a 1 dram sample of Santal 33 to giveaway.

Just leave a comment below naming your favorite advertising icon and which Le Labo fragrance they might wear. If you get stuck you cam use Don Draper of Joan, etc from Madmen

 

Or  choose a character from  Deadwood and name the Le Labo fragrance they 'wood' wear.  The draw  ends  May 6.

Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

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15 comments

  • I loved this but it didnt smell the same on me . It was more of a floriental with a bit of spice and bite Luckily the ambroxan hid itself

    On my skin Santal 33 would suit the Widow Alma Garret in Deadwood who was very feminine yet dealt with Mr Hearst and his men who tried to get her land ; she was a drug addict ….I am totally addicted!

    Ad icon? The little guy who said it’s time to make the donuts. Sugar glazed or heavily powdered would be
    City exclusive for Paris Le Labo Vanille 44 which I think is ironic because I don’t think Fabrice and Eddie would like such a Hi Lo comparison

    Using Mark’s description imho Calamity Jane would wear Santal 33

  • I'm dying to try this! But it's a bit difficult for me to answer this as I grew up in Beirut during the 80s, so my ad references are probably very different. Except that the Marlboro Man was everywhere (I can recall that theme in a heartbeat)! One of my favorite ads growing up (the one that made me realize I was gay, actually) is Davidoff's Cool Water. Though it's a bit pointless to assign a different perfume to such an iconic perfume ad, if I had to pick a Le Labo perfume for it, it would probably be Neroli 36: that salty marine note in it is perfect for the image of sea water on tanned skin!

  • Thanks very much for the draw.  My favourite advertising icon is The Michelin Man and of course he must wear Le Labo's Patchouli 24 – it would enhance the scent of rubber tyres beautifully!

  • I need to give Santal 33 another good wearing. I could detect the ambrox, although it didn't irritate me as badly as it does in other scents. (Another 13, I'm looking at you). Luckily, it faded, and I was left with more of a dry woody iris scent. The musk seemed pretty muted on me too, also a positive, because I seem to have difficulties with musk overload in some new releases. All in all, I enjoyed it and I'll try it again to more thoroughly explore its nuances. I don't need to be entered into the draw, since I've already sampled this and I have a drop left.

  • I love the Marlboro Man & had a huge crush on him! So manly, strong and dusty lol. Michelyn I loved Deadwood and the Widow Alma Garrett was one of my fave characters. Perfect scent. I adore sandalwood probably more than any note ( see the Chanel raw sandalwood bottle on my FB, I considered grabbing it and running!) and I count MPG Santal Noble, Samsara and Chanel Bois des Iles among my favorites….lovely post.

  • My favorite advertising icon is Snuggle bear. It's so cute! I have always wanted one 🙂
    I haven't tried any Le Labo scent, but I think he could wear Fleur d'Oranger 27.
    I'd love to try Santal 33. Sandalwood is one of my favorite notes and it could be my chance to try a Le Labo perfume at last.

  • kathleen says:

    I don't have a favorite advertising icon.  I don't like ads, they feel intrusive, to me.  I do like a bit of sandlewood, and would love to try this new scent.

  • I really dislike advertising icons, too, but I'd have to say that one personality that tickles me in an ad is John Hodgman in those Apple ads. He's the antihero of the ad, and totally awesome. I think he would wear the Chicago exclusive Baie Rose, because it sounds like a snappy and not-taking-itself-too-seriously kind of fragrance. Please enter me in the draw!

  • I love the old Coppertone ad with the puppy pulling on the the little girl's swimsuit bottom. When I saw that as a kid, I knew the school year was almost over and it would be time to head to the pool .  What would be she wearing besides her Coppertone? CB I Hate Perfume 1966 At the Beach?  But then it's a little girl so perhaps L'Artisan Ananas Fizz would work with it's citrus notes. But she's so cute she wouldn't need either one!
     
    So glad you were able to try this–thanks for the review.

  • This probably won't mean anything to most of you as I don't know if anyone not in the UK had the Milk Tray Man, but he would have worn Rose 31.  Something debonair.

  • my favorite ads has been iPod ones with "liquid dancing" people.
    i have never tried le Labo, but judging by the description Bergamote 22 will work!

  • Funny enough, I really liked the Marlboro Man since those ads were prominently featured on my dad’s Playboys that I used to borrow (for the articles!). There was a no-nonsense ‘getting it done’ atmosphere to him that I’ve not seen in any advertising since: it’s almost the end of an era to me. And IMHO, (since I’ve not tried Santal but would like to) I think he’d wear Oud 27 – which is what I’m wearing today and currently my favorite from Le Labo that I’ve tried so far.

  • I'll pick Al Swearingen of "Deadwood" (he's my favorite character!), and choose Tabac Aurea from Sonoma Scent Studios as his fragrance.

  • Current favorite advertising icon has to be Dos XX's Most Interesting Man in the World……….ah, but would he wear Lonestar Memories? or Shalimar? (because he knows what he likes).  Me, I'm obsessed with Patchouli 24, but would love to try this one………..