Le Labo: The Perfumista’s Perfumed Experience + “Foundation” Reader’s Choice Le Labo Draw

 

 

The Design of Parfum | The Art Direction of Place

 To every product, there is a story, to every story, there is a telling — and in every telling, there is a person that offers that tale.

• There is the brand — and its story.
• There is the nature and complexity of the perfumes — what are they, what is the character of their “notation.”
• There is the spirit of the brand expression and their relationship to the founding visioning.
• There is scale, light, materials, “volume,” spatial planning.

The nature of these elements, whether shopfront, manufacturing and craft space, materials lab or high end sophistication and salon-like environments — each of these can frame that quality. We’ve written about the dynamics of scent in place — scent design and mnemonic context –ranging from the spiritual to the specially retail, retold. Others comment, Chandler Burr, for example. There are the principles of delicacy and restraint, or the emboldened super spritz of retail. Or toxic.

To each, their own story.

In studying the range of scent spaces — places for selling fragrance — and working on designing for them, there is a link between the brand, the story, and how that place could be envisioned. Le Labo — the lab, sees the character of the scenting apothecary as a point of inspiration; and practice aligns. Every scent is carefully built to formula, creating the rightful balance against the receipt of ingredients. And every scent, in that manufacture, on site, is created in a manner that suggests both the signature of the preparer as well as the recipient.

Not everyone lives close to one of our labs and that, we know, creates great sadness around the world (to some extent. There are more serious and stinky things that create even greater sadness). To make your life easier however, one of our lab assistants will compound the perfume you decide to have by hand, print its label with the name of your choice, and send it to the address of your choice (you get to choose a lot). Then it’s up to the delivery man to do his job and he usually does it efficiently as he drowns himself in our testers every morning. Smell nice.

Custom made, on the spot — buy the product and it’s formulated with your name on it. That idea of customization is a consistent trend in the building of niche scents — the fragrance: small batches, built to suit. In store, or online: They offer more, to learning — and with products to match: their Olfactionary, a tool with a price and broad vocabulary.

“Our main goal is to help you “open your nostrils” in the same way good books open their readers’ eyes to life. Philosophers speak about “men with stitched-up eyelids” when referring to people who are blind to the basics of existence. Most of us live with stitched-up nostrils, having grown up in a world where smells are hidden away, and our olfactory senses left to wither.

Le Labo believes that it is about time that we open our eyes, breathe in deeply and take in all that life has to offer.

The Design of Parfum | The Art Direction of Place
Image from Le Labo

A translation in miniature of the Perfumers’ pipe organ, THE OLFACTIONARY is presented as a box with the 40 fundamental natural essences used in perfumery. This remarkable tool has served as a guide to perfume-makers around the world.

Forty 2.5 ml bottles containing natural essences suspended in an alcohol-based solution, representing the principal scents you find in perfumes. The box also includes a pack of olfactory keys or “blotters“ for sampling the scent of these essences.

There are other product offerings — home scents, vintage candles, books and detergents.

The Design of Parfum | The Art Direction of Place

My curiosity reaches more to the storytelling of place — a sequence of Girvin images:

An entry display, the shop front in Soho, NYC
The Design of Parfum | The Art Direction of Place

A roughened signing application, street side — like the website, unified presence and procession:
The Design of Parfum | The Art Direction of Place

A fragrance technician preparing an order, behind the counter at Le Labo
The Design of Parfum | The Art Direction of Place

The merchandising style — delicate, restrained and hand touched
The Design of Parfum | The Art Direction of Place

Imprinted tin wall treatments
The Design of Parfum | The Art Direction of Place

The Olfactionary
The Design of Parfum | The Art Direction of Place

An antique shelving arrangement
The Design of Parfum | The Art Direction of Place

From the back to the front, the apothecary, Le Labo
The Design of Parfum | The Art Direction of Place
The Design of Parfum | The Art Direction of Place

Ultimately, it’s the scents that count — the staying power of the fragrance is the foundation of everything that is built in the sense of retail design and fragrance. However, the nature of these dispositions is embraced and supported in:

the shop front — the story will begin on the street, at the entrance — what is the beginning of the telling?
– Le Labo’s detailing begins from the sidewalk — display at the entrance, street front signing applications; the total impression is carefully managed.
the entry portal — coming into the place, what experience can be found in the opening: the first step?
– There is an immediate waft of complicated scent renderings, warm and rich, but hardly overwhelmed — fragrance isn’t too much of an overpowering condition.
surveying the opening arrangement — what is the understanding of process?
– The first step reveals a service sequence of exploratory, studying what is around the guest — a counter, arrays of product; there is a sense that wandering is accepted; there is no precise sequencing of context in what to do next.

There is a strength in aligning a comprehensive style — from identity to packaging, from shop sequence to service conceptions. The laboratory modeling for Le Labo is built on a rich presumption of the characterization of process — raw ingredient admixtures that are assembled on the spot, named and tabulated like a prescriptive benefit, extending the story of the Le Labo’s strategy of personal formulations. The next tier in experience development will always be merchandising — the integral styling of space; objects that tell a story, leaning back to the heart of the brand.

 

Contributor, Tim Girvin

Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/tim.girvin  Blog http://blog.girvin.com/

 

 CITY EXCLUSIVES ARE NOT INCLUDED They are: Aldehyde 44 (Dallas), Vanille 44 (Paris), Gaiac 10 (Tokyo), Musc 25 (Los Angeles), Poivre 23 (London), and Tubereuse 40 (New York)

For our Draw :Co Owner Fabrice Penot  wishes to offer a 50ml customized flacon of any Le Labo fragrance to one winning commentor.  To qualify choose your fragrance, click on this link and write what your  favorite part of the itnerview was   and what you learned in this article by Tim.  Draw ends July 2, 2011 EST
 

 

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53 comments

  • It was really a pleasure to read ’bout Le Labo again) – I just felt myself in their facinatin’ boutique again.. First time I found their corner in Amsterdam’s “Skins” and couldn’t leave without a bottle. It was Iris 39.
    What I learned? I didn’t know ’bout THE OLFACTIONARY yet. A brilliant idea!
    The best part of that interview ..was “beautiful scent has no gender”.
    I’d like to get Gaiak Tokio
    TNX!

  • I love the photographs of the apothecary! And the concept that we have stitched up nostrils and need to open them up and breathe and take in all that life has to offer. I was surprised to learn that they have other products besides fragrances such as detergents. I would choose Gaiac 10 Tokyo out of all of the fragrances listed.

  • taffynfontana says:

    I am dying to try Le Labo Baie Rose 26 (Chicago) its notes are some of my favorites. This new Le Labo article by Tim is fascinating I love that Le Labo is trying to have us open our nostrils. The apothecary style of the shops are excellent. The answer that caught my attention from Michelyns ‘ interview was Mr. Penot’s remarks about perfumery being an “industry” (sad word) that has a IDD (intention Deficit Disorder):people make perfumes with the intention to make money. this is not what we do: our original intention is truly to bring beauty to the lives of people through what we know, our craft, meaning perfume creation. Then if we succeed, eventually commercial success will follow. But it is a consequence, not an obsession. it is quite refreshing to hear that a successful company is putting their money where their mouth is. Thanks again

  • I`d choose Vanille 44 if it`ll be my lucky chance.

    The best interview part is the brief for my fave Iris 39: “the sexiest human being at a publishing house party of Saint Germain des Prés in May 26th 1931 at 11.30pm…”
    I found it in Colette for my dear wife & she loves it as I do.

    As for Tim Girvin part – the best are pics, for sure. And somehow I realized that old-fashioned style has never been faded or out of trends. that`s great niche to fill for perfumers.

  • the city exclusives are not included They are: Aldehyde 44 (Dallas), Vanille 44 (Paris), Gaiac 10 (Tokyo), Musc 25 (Los Angeles), Poivre 23 (London), and Tubereuse 40 (New York)

  • The quote I loved most about this article and a sentence that made me think a bit differently about perfumery is the one about the goal of perfumery being “opening up the nostrils.” It struck me as quite true that so much mainstream contemporary perfumery is either about masking the interesting and strange nuances of smell (the dirty, the challenging, the oddball smells that make us fanatics all hot and bothered), or removing individuality from scent with mass-produced dreck. I do understand that in Le Labo’s aesthetic–each individual scent is like a multi-layered beauteous gift! (well, gaiac 10 is a linear but beauteous gift).

    As for the interview, besides Penot’s sense of humor (of which we get glimpses of with the glib wording of the website), I enjoyed the comment he said about Macy’s and why he wouldn’t want Le Labo sold some place like that…that it wasn’t about what was being presented, but how the store was presenting it. I see a huge place like that in contrast to the pared down workshop-feel of the NY boutique and it all makes sense!

    While sad this draw doesn’t include city exclusives, I would be HEAD over heels happy to win a bottle of Labdanum 18.

  • In the interview, I like the part about taking the genders off the fragrances – yay! Why put scents in a box like that?

    I have first-hand experience of the Olfactionary – I was having a fight about a scent note in a perfume with my favorite SA, and so we went to that lovely box and figured it out.

    I like that the delivery guy scents himself!

    Fleur d’Oranger 27 is my pick!

  • My favorite part of the interview has to be the walkthrough from the sidewalk to the experience inside the store. The Olfactory is a pretty awesome thing too!

    As to what I learned, that would be about La Lebo in general, as this is a new and really interesting company to me!

    I also would have to pick Labdanum 18, I can’t get enough of Labdanum lately.

  • as Exclusives are not included, I`d choose Santal 33 then. Had never tried it yet!

  • I am not going to cite it but I liked what Margared Mead said, very true and worth thinking about. My choise would be Gaiac. Many thanks

  • ElizabethN says:

    Oh my, lovely draw! I would choose Rose 31, one of my favorite Rose scents. My favorite part of the interview was his explanation of why he doesn’t want to sell LL scents at Macy’s: “They’re asking you to fall in love in the middle of a highway!” And that they are vegan scents, which I didn’t know.

  • “Our main goal is to help you “open your nostrils” in the same way good books open their readers’ eyes to life. ” – very true, I meet many people who have no idea about this “olfactionary country”. My choice would be LE LABO IRIS. Thx

  • Thanks for this Le Labo article and the lovely accompanying pictures. As for what I learned: the Olfactionary was news to me and seems an excellent tool to “open [ones] nostrils”.
    I enjoyed re-reading the April interview with Fabrice Penot. Lots of interesting information, but my favourite this time was his finding personally inspiring the quote from Romanian philosopher Corian: “In a world without melancholy, nightingales would belch.”
    If I were to win the draw, I would choose Rose 31.

  • I have read great reviews about the fragrances from this house and not a single release seems to have disappointed the parfumistas. The best part of the interview for me is for sure to know they are vegan fragrances and this is what, I believe, is the word we have learned that no one is harmed.

    As for Tim’s part, the great pictures say it all. I love their style of antique shelving arrangement. And that’s true that staying power of a fragrance is the foundation without a doubt.

    My choice would be Neroli 36.

  • Great article! I liked the pictures of the apothecary and would definitely enjoy visiting a Le Labo store. The best quote from this piece, for me, is “open our eyes, breathe in deeply and take in all that life has to offer”… Should I win the draw, I would go for Patchouli 24…

  • I loved learning about the Olfactionary and seeing those beautiful images of the store. I wish I could go there in person. I guess a rant about the whole city exclusives idea won’t help at all? 😉
    Should I win, I’d be over the moon and I choose Labdanum 18.

  • My favourite part of the interview was this –
    “if you can bring a little edge of confidence, of smile, of well being with your creations, i am pretty sure that you are changing something on the big picture. it may sound weird but not for me… you could tell me that any perfume brand does that. i don’t think so. the difference is in the intention..”
    This is what perfume is all about to me and I also believe intention is all important.

    What I learnt from Tim’s interview was that Le Labo also offer candles, home scents, notebooks and even detergent!

    If I was lucky enough to win a bottle I’d choose Labdanum 18, thank-you.

  • Lovely article- I always follow Le Labo’s activities- this brand really stands out from the more and more crowded niche market. My favourite part of interview was about recent co-operation with Anthrolopogie (I love these candles!) and when it comes to the article- the store design part was the most interesting.
    Rose 31 would be my natural choice- as I am big fan of rose notes. Thank you!

  • I loved the entire interview, but my favorite part is Tim’s evocative photos. It is obvious that Le Labo is a brand of sophistication, quality and with a deep committment to its customers…qualities that are sadly lacking today in perfumery. I love the concept of ‘opening up our nostrils’ and becoming more aware, not only of scent, but of our world, our lives and the possibilities in them.

    Were I to choose, my scent would be Ambrette.

    Thank you for a wonderful interview!

  • Charlotte says:

    I consider Le Labo’s fragrances to be masterpieces. I have never tried their Musc or their Tuberouse, but I would love to!

  • mariotgomez says:

    Tim, thanks for the article and especially the pictures. Here in SF, we have a Le Labo counter inside Barneys, I look forward to the day I get to visit one of the boutiques.

    My first scent was Bergamote 22. I would choose Vetyver 46 if would be the lucky winner. In November, the City limited scents will be available at Barneys SF. I am looking forward to exploring those.
    M

  • Queen Cupcake says:

    I enjoyed all of the interview. My favorite parts of the interview were these:
    “…it is hard to imagine a less efficient way of changing the world than making perfume… but still, with Le Labo, we are trying to make the life of the people who wear our perfumes more beautiful … and doing NO HARM creating these perfumes…if you can bring a little edge of confidence, of smile, of well being with your creations, i am pretty sure that you are changing something on the big picture. it may sound weird but not for me… you could tell me that any perfume brand does that. i don’t think so. the difference is in the intention…”

    and also:

    FP: “i believe that the way you connect with a perfume is a very important moment of your relationship with it… the way you try it, the quality of the environment around you, the number of stimuli around while you experience the scent. This is what i don’t connect with at Macy’s in that case: the idea to sell a maximum of bottles, with the maximum of noise, in a minimum of square feet has an impact of the customer experience. Come on, they are asking you to fall in love in the middle of the highway…”

    A philosopher perfumer! I loved it. I enjoyed those photos of the shop, and learning about the story development & approach, beginning at the sidwalk. Also, that there was the sense that “wandering is accepted”. As we know, not all who wander are lost!

    I would love to win Iris 39.

    Thanks for the drawing!

  • I enjoyed learning that Le Labo products are vegan!
    I’d have to select Iris 39, i think.

  • NancyKirkland says:

    I have never seen a serious perfume interview that talked about a first kiss or what someone wore to bed before this one that is. My favorite part was where Fabrice said that he has never designed perfumes with gender in mind. I wear a lot of older sultry scents from the 1980s that have more in common with today’s masculines than feminines so that makes sense to me.

    From Tim’s article above I learned the most from the photos since I have never been to their stores. I also liked this quote “Our main goal is to help you “open your nostrils” in the same way good books open their readers’ eyes to life.”

    If I won, I would choose Labdanum 18. I have not tried it yet but it sounds like my kind of perfume from what I have read!

  • I have read again the interview. Last time I said that my favourite part was when they talk about gender on fragrances. Today, I’d say that my favourite answer is when Fabrice Penot talks about his first kiss, when he was a teenager. I loved the way he described the feelings of that moment.

    If I won, I’d choose Labdanum 18. I won’t stop trying to get that perfume!

  • sonia garcia says:

    I remember the interview from that link, I like the part where he mentions that Le Labo fragrances are genderless, and for this one I would love to see the Olfactionary, pretty cool concept there, and the pictures from the boutique, I visited the LA boutique once and the service wasn’t that great, I prefer to try them when I go to Barneys instead. If I win (PLEASE!!!!) I’d love to get Rose 31.

  • I loved the quote about falling in love on a highway. I remember visiting the olfactionary not long after it first opened. I enjoyed reading about the concept of the business and how the ethics and aesthetics have played out in a commercial setting. The interview was terrific! I hope that someday they make a Washington scent! Please enter me in the drawing. I just finished my 2nd bottle of Labdanum 18 (still have my bottle from when they called it Ciste!)

  • Since the City exclusives are not included I would choose the Vetiver 46….in actuality…they are all fabulous.

  • d3m0lici0n says:

    I really like all Le Labo creations I have Santal 33, Patch 24 and Neroli 36, they are excellent quality products but like the Michelyn mentions in the interview , sometimes they sound too elitist and I really don’t like that, also the idea of the exclusives is a thing that I really don’t like about the company, but I really try to focus more on the fragrances and not on the other stuff, like other entry mentioned before the Boutique in 3rd Street in LA really sucks, the reps are too hip for common people like us…
    If I win I’d love the Rose 31 , (I doubt it after my comments)
    :p

  • Well done because it shows that even niche perfumery depends in many cases on clever marketing. Somewhat different then it is done by Coty. But it is all about finding a underserved niche among perfumistas, consitent storytelling, greating the brand image and leveraging this image.

  • Iris 39 is my favorite tested so far from Le Labo.

    The “white socks to bed” comment was such an anti-Marilyn Monroe answer I did a little lol.

    As far as learning from this article, the following tidbit taught me that even fabulous perfumers with a crisp, streamlined business model have to work to generate brand zazz, “The next tier in experience development will always be merchandising — the integral styling of space; objects that tell a story, leaning back to the heart of the brand.”

  • ololiuqui says:

    I remember that interview and I don’t know exactly why but I remember the Margared Mead quote “Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful and committed citizens can change the world, Indeed, it’s the only thing that ever has”.I realy enjoyed this interview .it’s always interesting to find some info direct from the creators sharing their ideas,but I realy enjoyed the scense of humor here.The “clever” conversation makes me think in other way about the perfumes and their creators.Thanks for this article and hope to have the chance to try some of Le Labo scents.

  • I liked the coment about shopping at Macys, and from the article I was really interested to learn about the Olfactionary (I’d really love one of those!)
    If I’m the lucky winner I’d like Iris 39.

  • From the article, what really resonated with me was the bit about opening our nostrils, the way a good book opens the reader’s eyes. This is especially meaningful to me because of the way a good fragrance is not just a scent, but each has its own story, the telling of which begins with the opening, moves through the different chapters, and winds down, though doesn’t end, with the drydown.

    The interview touched me in the same way with the part about why Le Labo was not sold at Macy’s. I totally get that, each fragrance’s story includes the moment in which you first spritz it, where you are, who and what you’re surrounded by, the whole sensory experience encompasses all of that. And, that moment can be a poignant one.

    I greatly enjoyed reading these, and If I were to win this generous draw, I would be
    honored to have the choice of Labdanum 18.

  • Great to re-read the interview, so much banter going on, it has such an atmosphere about it. My favourite part is about making the world a better place “but still, with Le Labo, we are trying to make the life of the people who wear our perfumes more beautiful … …if you can bring a little edge of confidence, of smile, of well being with your creations, i am pretty sure that you are changing something on the big picture. it may sound weird but not for me… you could tell me that any perfume brand does that. i don’t think so. the difference is in the intention…”
    And, with regard to Tims contribution, I especially enjoyed the ‘Olfactionary’.
    I’d love the chance to win Labdanum 18. Thanks to Ca Fleure Bon and Fabrice Penot, for this wonderful draw.

  • ololiuqui says:

    The “language of fragrance is universal and as books the scent can send message.Presenting a fragrance is very important to help peolpe understand the concept behind the construction of the scent.Finding or building the right space to present it can be as important as the fragrance for the approach of the concept and the idea to the audience.I always admire when people taughtfuly pay attention to every detail as in this case “Le Labo’s detailing begins from the sidewalk… “.
    I would encourage the idea of exploring scents and “open your nostrils”.The life is full of different scents which we pass by most of the time.A lot of information we cary coded with a specific scent a memory or a place realted to that scent.So naturaly it’s a scense which we are builed to use but we forget to.
    It will be difficult to pick a fragrance from Le Labo I still haven’t tryed anything from them yet.May be Rose 31 or Oud27.

  • you smell!!! says:

    I read the other Le Labo entry with the interview and find some interesting opinions there, some of them not the same as mine but the thing I liked the most are the all le labo creations are vegan and it is not at the expense of some other precious lives and also their high quality , about the new article I’d love to visit the boutique , it looks really awesome and to take a look to the Olfactionary, amazing product there but I can tell that is a really expensive one! If I win I’d love to get some Rose 31 for me please.
    Many Thanks and happy 4th of july!

  • the part that i really like from from the interviewis the answer of this question “I read that bergamot treats acne and skin conditions… have you done any studies on whether bergomote 22 can help those afflicted?” just epic. well i think this article tell about the basic of le labo i’d say. nice
    if i win, Rose 31 please.

  • The best thing about the article was learning about the Olifactionary. As I live in Sweden there are so many notes in perfume that I´ve no idea how they smell like in real life (linden blossom, tuberose, immortelle, the list goes on and on). The Olifactionary would be so useful to me!
    If I´m to win I´d like Iris 39, please. Thanks!

  • taffynfontana says:

    oops I missed the part about city exclusives not being included my next choice would have to be Le Labo Iris 39. I’m crossing my fingers and wishing really, really hard. 🙂

  • I think the store has a cool vibe to it. Love this made to order sort of idea and the personalized label. My favorite part is that there is no gender assignment to their fragrances. If i had to chose i would chose Labdanum 18 or the Tubereuse 40
    Thank for this great draw.

  • I like the statement in the interviw …..I agree… does not make any sense… we’ll take the “femme” out ! let’s free these men… a beautiful scent has no gender, seriously, we are actually planning to stop “naming” the genders of our perfumes… these were just to indicate a certain sensibility and help the discovery of the scents in our stores… but they have all been created with no gender in mid in the first place
    And that is what i truly think about the Le Labo fragrances too….like i said Labdanum 18 would be a choice of mine or Rose 31

  • To all
    It’s rare when an owner of an uber luxe perfumery reads an article and says I want you to offer a flacon to support this kind of writing. We thank Tim for a different perspective on fragrance as a delivery system of an unique identity // one where consistency of taste level,quality,price,design are éléments of Olfactive branding
    Every marketing exec should read this piece every perfumista should enter this draw
    When you are both like Tim and me Branding and ideas not just the jus alone are key elements in what defines Success and differentiation on an over crowded market ; there is a cache like no other
    Now I am the first to grumble about city exclusive but the unobtainable is always what we long for

  • Carlos Powell says:

    Great article! Very interesting read, about a very innovative perfume line. I would choose Fleur D’Oranger 27. Thanks for this wonderful draw!

  • Carlos Powell says:

    I like the part about the scent mules. I wish the city exclusives were more accessable. Tom’s article was great. Seeing the photos and how the Le Labo experience comes together.

  • I love how he said “Come on, they are asking you to fall in love in the middle of the highway…” which is so true. I’m just so amazed with how much intricate thought goes into the atmosphere and experience while in their lab. I’d love a chance to try the Oud.

  • I liked that about the kiss:
    gosh i was bad… i remember more the moments after than the kiss itself; i left the girl on a sidewalk on my mountain bike and i was flying… going so fast, with a smile on my face, with the optimism of someone who would have just been told he will never get sick…
    I can imagine his face, ha. 😉

    I would like to try Oud.

  • Another wonderful draw! On this article, I loved the photos, like leafing through an old photo album. The shop looks like an old apothecary. On the older article I appreciated the way Fabrice Penot’s sense of humor came through in his answers to several of the questions. I also was happy to learn what the numbers mean (the number of ingredients). I never understood that. My pick would be Neroli 36. thank you!

  • What a funny interview! I loved the part about having a lot to choose. Of course the photos were killer as well. I would pick “Oud 27”.

  • What I liked in the interview:

    FP’s sense of humor:

    What is your favorite 4 letter word?
    FP: CAFÉ

    What I learned from Tim:

    That the Le Labo fragrances are compounded to order because of the aim of being like an old-fashioned apothecary, where healing medicines were compounded to order.

    Which fragrance I would choose: Patchouli 24