Interview with Bertrand Duchaufour: The Different Company “Oud Shamash-Bi Scentuality”

 bertrandduchaufourcafleurebon

Everytime I look for hidden meanings, I often discover (quote attributed to Sigmund Freud) "Sometimes a cigar is just a cigar."

Such is the case with the new release Oud Shamash for The Different Company. So why speculate when M. Duchaufour was so kind as to agree to an interview? The only mystery of this oud will be on the skin.

Hello Bertrand. You are working on many fragrances…now we are intrigued by your first perfume for The Different Company

BD: It's true, I am very very busy but for such interesting  projects.
  
Did you choose the name 'Shamash'? Did you know of its etymological non Christian origin of a sun god of ancient cultures? PS in a Hanukah Menorah the Shamash is the lead candle that lights  all the others is called the Shamash?

BD: I didn't choose the name at all and I didn't even know what it was meaning…

 


Photo courtesy of The Different Company  

What was your brief? How closely did you work with Luc Gabriel?

BD: I worked with Luc Gabriel, the CEO of The Different Company on two different oudhs, in parallel. It was a challenge to work two different ways on such a rich product, just for making  it understood it's possible to explore a lot of facets, in different compositions. The work can be done infintitely…
 
There are so many oud fragrances, and have been since the beginning of civilization. In creating Oud Shamash, what did you bring  to this ubiquitous note, that has never been done in West, during the past thirty years? 

BD: I wanted to bring a sensuality which never existed before, in a masculine way, and in a feminine one ( the oudh of Th D C )

 

Photo courtesy of www.lartisanparfumeur.com

Was Al Aoudh for  L'Artisan Parfumeur an etude, a precursor for embarking on this journey?

BD: No because Al Oudh of LAP is already something accomplished (excuse my self-confidence) .

IMHO, you are certainly entitled to feel self confident!  For Oud Shamash did you use any ancient techniques of extraction i.e used in the making of Arabic oud attars? 

BD: No, I used the most beautiful raw material I had to my disposal, that's all.
  
 

  Étienne Dinet was a French Orientalist painter who later converted to Islam. His understanding of the Arab language and culture set him apart from other artists in his genre.

Can you please send me a painting , poem, musical piece or a photo that evokes this scent for you!!!

BD: Imagine it's like a rich thick brocade or a deep 'cramoisi' velvet, adorned with gold shaped sanskrit letters … (Editor's Note: I chose this beautiful painting above)

Why is the series called Excessive Collection ?

BD: Because of the price of the JUS itself !
 

When will you debut additional OUDs.

BD: The second oudh for the Different Company will be launched supposedly in September…

How many?

BD: I don't know but I don't want to stop here…

Maybe you will be in NY for our modest wedding!!!!

BD: It will be difficult because I will be at my niece's wedding during the same period…  but I congratulate you on your wedding, hoping it will be the most beautiful spring of eternal happiness!!! 

Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief

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5 comments

  • You know, I just assumed that the Perfumeur at least had input as to a composition's naming. So that little tidbit was shocking to me!  
    I'd like to sniff this simply because I tend to do well with BD's creations; even when I don't LOVE them, I find them interesting .  But overall, I'd say I'm just about Ouded -out. 
    Oh, and hopefully with BD in the lab, just maybe we'll see some TDC with actually longevity! 

  • In theory, I'm 'ouded out", not because of the note itself, but only because it has become such an obligatory, trendy release. On the other hand, with BD behind the helm, I don't really care what note is featured. I just want to sniff what he creates.

  • Michelyn – you're getting married?  How wonderful! I don't know if you've posted it on the site before (I must have missed it). Congratulations! What are you planning on wearing, scent wise?

  • The part about creating the perfume without knowing the name was unexpected for me too. Very interesting. I wonder if there were any limitations posed by the company? Something like what notes to use/not to use, price of ingredients, targeted age group, etc.

  • IMHO we expect too much from our rock stars of perfumery… Those who are for hire work under the direction of a Creative Director. In this case what is important is that Bertrand was directed to create the best oud perfume money can buy. If you follow my interviews thru out the year, M Duchaufour picks his projects and will refuse one that does not allow him to create Art. otherwise he would crank out flankers with anyone. Do you remember Joe Cocker’s or Randy Newman’s You can take your hat off!