I have been looking forward to trying Ineke Ruhland’s seventh fragrance, Ineke Gilded Lily, since she told me about it last April. When we met she described it as “Shakespeare meets manga”. It was a description that intrigued me as the idea of the brightly colored Japanese comics and illustrations paired with something more classical set my imagination off on its own flight of fancy. Thankfully, Ms. Ruhland chose to keep her flight more grounded as her choice was to create a fruity chypre with a heart consisting of the Japanese Goldband Lily (lilium auratum). One of the things that I am impressed with time and again is the dedication of the best artisanal perfumers and Ms. Ruhland is one of those. To truly understand the Goldband Lily Ms. Ruhland planted some in her Bay Area garden and took the time to experience the Goldband Lily as a living thing before converting it to an accord. This leads to the creation of an olfactive lily that is very modern feeling and feels different from other lily focused fragrances out there. In many ways Gilded Lily doesn’t try to “gild the lily” as much as to frame it. By using a group of fruit notes at the top and the Shakespearean classic chypre components in the base Ms. Ruhland is able to fully explore all of the facets of her central accord.

 

The first two corners of the frame consist of pineapple and rhubarb. These are two excellent choices as the pineapple adds a tempered sweetness while the rhubarb adds tart to the proceedings. This is a bright sharply defined opening and it allows for the lily to make its appearance slowly as first a sharply green aspect grows out of the rhubarb which then allows Gilded Lily to fully flower as the slightly acerbic floral facet contrasts the pineapple. Many times a fruity floral beginning goes so sweet it can unbalance a fragrance, Ms. Ruhland keeps a firm hand on her components so the balance is maintained throughout the early stages. The fruity floral character persists for quite a while but then the other two parts of the frame around the lily click into place as first oakmoss and then patchouli create the very familiar chypre base. Ms. Ruhland also adds a pinch of labdanum which imparts even more depth. The chypre base takes the lily accord and leaves behind the floral character and now accentuates the more fully green aspects of the Goldband Lily. Those familiar with lily of the valley will recognize the almost metallic character that arises within the embrace of the oakmoss and patchouli. It never gets quite as intense as lily of the valley does but it clearly shares a kinship.  

 

 

Gilded Lily has excellent longevity and above average sillage.

Gilded Lily never rises entirely to the level of explosive color I was expecting from the “manga” tease. It really is more “Shakespeare” in that it fully explores a central note by surrounding it with the familiar and allowing that familiarity to introduce us to something new. By that assessment Ms. Ruhland succeeds on all counts as she takes the Goldband Lily and displays it to full effect in a fruit and chypre frame.

 

Disclosure: This review was based on a preview sample of Gilded Lily supplied by Ineke.

-Mark Behnke, Managing Editor