Hermes Eau De Citron Noir (Christine Nagel) 2018 + New Perfume Review + Bottling Umami Draw

Hermes Eau de  Citron Noir by Robert H

Learning of a new fragrance release from Hermes makes me jump for joy, and the past month or so has seen a veritable blitzkrieg of new perfumes from the house; the very latest being Eau De Citron Noir. In its deep sapphire blue bottle, Citron Noir is built around an accord using Middle Eastern Black Lime as its base, a smoked and preserved citrus used in cooking and food preparation. It’s a common staple throughout the Middle East kitchens; “Noomi Basra” in Persia, (or most commonly “Loomi”) and it can be a challenging and a hard love for many Westerners. Its pungent/fermented sun-dried presence can overwhelm and a little goes a long way. Fortunately Christine Nagel has used a light touch in Hermes Eau De Citron Noir, and the dry smoky bitter note adds something deep and interesting to the composition as a whole.

Christine Nagel of Hermes©

Following a path through the olfactory universe of hesperidia led me into a vast world, dotted with surprises, with citrus fruits. Finger lime, Buddha's hand fruit, Eureka lemon… So many unusual varieties of citrus appealed to me, but it was the smoky and distinguished black lime that finally stood out as the key note." -Christine Nagel

Buddha's hand fruit via flickr

Hermes Eau De Citron Noir is akin to bottled umami, that elusive fifth savory taste that chefs strive for in their culinary pursuits. Opening with an almost floral blast of citrus, the black lime accord very quickly adds a smoky and pungent depth to the perfume which lasts throughout the drydown to the very end. The tea note adds to the overall astringency and the guiac wood, although slightly synthetic smelling, manages to help smooth out any rough edges

Crack seed/ Li Hing Mui via tumblr

This is a scent that I find personally comforting; it takes me right back to my winter childhoods on Maui in the 60’s. It is the scent of that Hawaiian “crack seed” that keiki (children) and Aunties snack on while gossiping, playing cards or just hanging around. Crack seed, originating in Asia as way to preserve fruit and seeds through drying, salting, and sugaring, is a long-time tradition in the islands that kids are raised on. My favorite was always the dried salty/sweet/sour red plums called Li Hing Mui, and the scent of Eau De Citron Noir is just that. Hermes Eau De Citron Noir (like crack seed) may not appeal to everyone, but when we bought our bottle in Paris at the flagship Nocibé store on Champs Élysées last week, the SA informed us that it had been flying off the shelf, and was a huge hit with the BCBG (Bon Chic Bon Genre) crowd, and I can see why. For them it may be something exotic and different, but for me it is a part of my childhood bottled.

Notes: Black lime accord, lemon, Lapsang Souchong tea, Buddha’s Hand citron, Guaiac wood..

Disclosure: The bottles and opinions are my own.

-Robert Herrmann, Senior Editor

-Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

Thanks to Senior Editor Robert Herrmann, we have a 50 ml. bottle of Hermes Eau De Citron Noir for one registered reader In the USA, so be sure to register if you have not done so. To be eligible please let us know what appeals to you about Robert’s review of Hermes Eau De Citron Noir and what taste do you crave…savory, salty, sweet, sour, bitter or umami. Draw closes on 4/25/2018.

.We announce the winners only on our website and on our Facebook page, so like Cafleurebon and use our Site feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

 

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23 comments

  • I’ve really been interested in this one. Sadly I haven’t smelled those crack seeds, but that is one interesting comparison. I cannot wait to smell this one and experience that lovely umami and soothing sensation!

  • doveskylark says:

    The picture of the crack seeds reminded me of the pickled plums (umeboshi) I used to make every rainy season (June) when I lived in Japan. If you make them right, you are rewarded with a mouth-puckering sour- salty taste. The Japanese believe one umeboshi a day can keep the doctor away. They are a bit of an acquired taste for many people, though. I wonder if black lime has any similarity to umeboshi. I definitely crave sour tastes.
    I live in t he USA.

  • You had me at crack….seed. Very interested in this for the smoky black lime. Thanks for the chance. USA

  • This post is lovely and created an interest in Hermes Eau de Citron Noir. It was the mention of Maui however that elevated this fragrance! I’m in for anything that can remind me of the Hawaiian islands. And yet I like the taste of sour. In the USA

  • The use of the dried citrus notes reminds me of some Persian food, which uses dried lemons, or some Gulf dishes (like kabsa) which uses dried limes. The smell is really something else. Very lovely. Definitely piques my interest.
    My tastes for food varies depending on mood. Though kind of in the mood for something sweet right now
    I’m in the US

  • fazalcheema says:

    I didnt even know there is a thing called black lime. Hermes Eau De Citron Noir seems to pay tribute to Elena style with citrusy and tea notes while Christine adds bitter smoky elements to create a new twist on cologne. thanks for the draw. I think I crave sour tastes. I am in US

  • It would be fun to try the umami flavor in a scent. I crave all of the above tastes except sweet. In the US. Crack seed? I’m definitely going to Google that, lol.

  • As always I enjoy Roberts writing. I love salty/sour anything and this in particular sounds unique and interesting. Crack seed might be something I need to try also!

  • Over the past few years my lifelong preference for sweet has given way to cravings for salty and sour, though I admit a sweet flavor is always a welcome treat.

    As a child my dear friend spent a month each summer visiting her grandparents and aunties and uncles in Kaui. My friend always brought back bottles of Horlick’s malted milk tablets and bags of plum crack seed to share with me. They were marvelous treats.

    Remembering the unusual and wonderful taste of Li Hing Mui makes me crave a sniff of Eau de Citron Noir. A new scent from Hermes is always a thrill, and that blue bottle is divine. Thank you for the review. Citrus, tea, and woods sound like a winner to me. I am in the US, many thanks for the generous draw.

  • doowtnehpets says:

    The middle eastern black sounds super unique and interesting. I tend to crave sweet.

  • Lord Kelwynne says:

    This reads like another dream scent with a smoky black lime. I am a fan of all things guiac, so this becomes even more enchanting. I myself prefer things bitter generally. I drink many liquors that are herbal and pronouncedly bitter.

    I have worn Hermes scents for decades. I certainly look forward to what this has to offer. I am in the US in Pennsylvania and thank you for the draw.

  • I’m not familiar with the black lime and wonder if there is any similarity to the preserved lemon which is used in Moroccan cooking. Certainly the combination of the citrus with that smokey tea and woods sounds awesome. I love the taste of sweet things as I’ve gotten older. Thanks for the draw. I’m in the USA

  • I didn’t know they had crack seeds in Hawaii. In Southeast asia they go by a different name, but I’m sure they are just as sour. Interesting review, the use of smoked black lime sounds like a creative note that only Hermes would use. They do make some really great fresh fragrances. Since its breakfast time, I would love to eat something savory…maybe eggs. I am in CT, thank you for the draw.

  • James Sherwood says:

    I like Robert’s writing style. It is a pleasure to read. My daughter is on Oahu, and my son is on the island of Hawaii , the big island. I must ask them about crack seeds. I am also very fond of Hermes fragrances. Jim, East Coast USA.

  • Andie Paige says:

    Smoky bitter note intrigues me the most. I would love to experience this twist on a citrus fragrance. I am definitely drawn more towards bitter!

  • Sounds like this would be a very challenging scent to create. Balancing notes that should contradict one another. I love fragrances with tea notes. A smokey lime sounds very intriguing as well. Another beautiful scent by Ms. Nagel, created for Hermes, is Eau De Rhubarbe. Tangy, crisp rhubarb very refreshing. I love Hermes and Ms. Nagel’s work. I would also love to try Galop d’Hermes a leather, rose and the bottle looks absolutely stunning.

  • I’m intrigued by this black lime accord and would love to win this draw! Thank you Robert for your review. I am in the U.S. and I’m craving sweet and salty these days.

  • I’m having a hard time imagining an umami aspect to a fragrance, so that alone makes me want to try it. I mostly love savory/salty/umami foods, with the occasional sweet craving, and almost no interest in sour or bitter tastes. That said, I will definitely hunt down some crack seed if I’m in Hawaii. Thanks for the drawing! I’m in the US.

  • Robert great to hear you spent some time here in Hawaii. By far my favorite is the part about Li Hing Mui. We now use li hing powder on many dried fruits and arare or kakimochi even chilled pineapples. Thanks for the draw. From Oahu,Hawaii

  • Just Add Light says:

    I’m definitely a fan of anything sweet, salty and savoury. Before reading Robert’s article, I had difficulty fathoming a fragrance that can be both citrus and smoky. What a wonderful juxtaposition! Perhaps that’s why the sour, bitter and umami creation intrigues me so much…it reminds me of another one of Christine’s compositions that I own – Lalique White for men. Whereas that one is light, bright and crisp, I can definitey see Citron Noir being the perfect counterpart. — Darkness and light — in perfect balance. I have an address in North Carolina.

  • I love the notes of this fragrance!
    I tend to be a fan of savory or salty items. I usually crave things like hummus (I eat hummus nearly every day!)
    I live in the US (Pennsylvania)

  • Eau de Citron Noir sounds really good. Would like to try this and hopefully own one day. I like a bit of everything. Enjoyed this review by Robert and thanks for the giveaway.
    California

  • Hi, and thanks for the draw! The article was very descriptive and informative I really enjoyed it! I crave the sweeter fragrances, and I’m located in the U.S.