Every so often a random sample comes with a purchase, from a company you haven’t ever heard of yet, and you fall head-over-heels and the rest (as they say) is history. This is what happened to me when I received a TOCCA sample. The sheer beauty of the flacon, the plain yet elegant class of the packaging and the beautiful fragrances they contain all impressed me more than any other designer fragrances had in years. All of their scents contain beautiful blends and have amazing inspirations.
This company started in fashion in 1994 and released a wildly popular sari dress. They continue to produce fashion but it is their fragrances, more than their clothes, which speak to me. Their name sounds Italian, but the company is American and strives to combine an old world aesthetic to a more modern audience with the same finesse and grace. Gold leaf adorned boxes hold heavy high-quality Murano glass bottles capped with charming bird-and-leaves motif decorating their metal caps. The company motto: “Love Yourself” is inscribed inside every box lid.
Stella (2006) is a breathtaking perfume. An opening of blood orange and creamy lily is sweet, but never too heavy. It segues into a floral heart of smooth freesia and white diamond orchids. It’s smooth and sexy, bawdy but never tacky. Despite the litany of ultra-femme florals it contains, this perfume veers towards unisex with a finish of dry sandalwood and sheer musk but manages to stay just this side of feminine, giving it a sexy and impetuous charm. Blood oranges originated in 17th century Sicily and this scent hints at the intrigue and beauty of Renaissance Italy. Sillage: good. Longevity: above average.
Artist: Lori Baluk
Florence (2006), whose name means “blooming”, is a superbly green floral scent. An astounding opening of bergamot, pear and grapefruit leaves gives a glowing and vibrant green aura to the beautiful “old fashioned” rose heart draped with jasmine, gardenia and violet garlands and sprinkled with a pinch of tuberose. Without smelling like a flower shop this perfume captures the sophistication and elegance of maturity while managing to keep it lively and enticing. As it dries down, a stunning iris note adds the silken beauty of the blooms to the sharp green of its leaves and draws it into a clean woody freshness. Sillage: great. Longevity: very good.
Cleopatra (2007) has inspired and been immortalized in many perfumes. A well-balanced opening of tart grapefruit and sharp cassis is smoothed by lush greens giving it an immediate intensity as powerful as it is regal. A sultry heart of jasmine and tuberose is made even richer and sweeter with peach nectar, yet it is never too indolic or saccharine. Rich and full patchouli blends its dark charm with dry golden amber as they swirl into a vanilla musk that makes any other “Egyptian Musk” I have smelled seem cheap and tacky. This is truly a perfume fit for a Queen. Sillage: very good. Longevity: excellent.
Brigitte (2008) was inspired by the chic glamorous and care-free spirit of Brigitte Bardot. A unique opening of sweet papaya and tart rhubarb is dusted with ginger and saffron, resulting in a spicy and fruity delight. The contrast of these accords creates something at once warm and exceedingly fresh, just like Ms. Bardot herself. This interplay of opposites continues throughout as full and romantic Moroccan rose is offset by steely iris root and dry aromatic sandalwood is softened with clean white musk while a scent of warm pannetone bread adds a slightly gourmand feel. Sillage: great. Longevity: very good.
Giulietta (2009) is named for Giulietta Masina, the wife and life-long love of Italian director Federico Fellini and was inspired by their holidays on the island of Corsica. This begins with a delicious green apple aroma, sweet and crisp, surrounded by the soft ephemeral scent of pink tulips and sheer roses. As the heart opens, ylang ylang adds a sun-drenched floral fullness to more classic powdery notes, like lilac and heliotrope. Hints of soft vanilla kisses and beachy breezes follow until the warm sunset over the sea is discernible in the close of cedar, musk, amber and sandalwood. This is like a perfume portrait of a perfect day, spent with someone you love. Sillage: average. Longevity: good.
Bianca (2010) is Italian for white, and was inspired by a seaside café in southern Italy. It is predominately a green tea scent (and an amazingly true one at that). The opening of lemon Orpur with bergamot and lavender create a brilliance that is neither too “clean” nor too astringent. These notes accentuate the soft beauty of the tea leaves and magnify them. Dry jasmine touched with roses adds a teasing hint of sensuality. I can imagine drinking jasmine green tea and looking out over the Mediterranean while delicate winds scented with flowers growing nearby gently touch my skin. A bit of sugar added to the tea makes it even more delicious and musk adds just the right amount of “wow”. Sillage: average. Longevity: average.
Colette (2010) was what made me fall in love with this house. Inspired by the French libertine and writer of the same name, this was meant to capture her romantic writings and liaisons and be reminiscent of the scent of a lover that lingers, the morning after, on the pillow. Perhaps the most “male friendly” scent in the collection, this takes juniper, bergamot and pink pepper and fuses them to violet leaves, jasmine and pine needles. The result is something absolutely genderless and exceedingly soft, yet aromatic and tantalizing. Sheer incense adds a touch of mystique to this tryst as musk amber and woods create a sexy and soft, but not overly oriental, finish. Gentle and passionate meet sweet and soft-spoken. Sillage: below average. Longevity: slightly above average.
Graciella (2011) pays homage to the immortal Grace Kelly. Ever the statuesque and classic beauty, she was loved the world over and captured the heart of a real live Prince and this perfume unfolds like a fairy tale. Bitter orange meets sweet juicy apricots and crisp pear in the top as a royal bouquet of rose, iris and Casablanca lily blooms. Without any of the trite trappings of the typical “fruity floral” this perfume manages to be both, and yet remain classy and poised. Even though this comes off rich and opulent, its base of benzoin and musk makes it easy to love. Sillage: very good. Longevity: above average.
Violette (2012) tells the tale of a U.S. soldier on leave falling in love with a sales clerk at a fragrance counter in Paris in the 1940’s and their whirlwind romance. His dashing good looks are illustrated with nuances of bergamot, coriander and ginger, while her demure feminine beauty is brought to life with African violets, Bulgarian rose and black currants. All these notes combine into a blend of soul-stirring beauty the way their hearts must have when they first locked eyes and just “knew”. The depth and strength of their love is captured in mighty cedar and warm embrace of benzoin. Velvety cashmere musk mirrors their soft touches and the heat of their passion. Their time together may have been short-lived, but the beauty of that love will live forever. Sillage: very good. Longevity: good.
This house has managed to capture aspects of love and timeless beauty in fragrances and has done so at a very modest price. It is not too often you find such elegance and beauty in a perfume bottle for around 70 US dollars.
Disclosure: Reviews based on samples and bottles sent to me by TOCCA through Lexamedia.
Thanks to TOCCA we have a draw for a reader’s choice of a 50mL bottle of whichever one of the above reviewed fragrances you would like best. To be eligible leave a comment and choose your muse from these fragrances. We will draw one winner on November 16, 2012.
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.
-John Reasinger, Editor