The Fragrant Folk of FRAGments 2014

(front row near: Mario T. Gomez, Heather Kauffman and Paul Kiler; second row; Iris Moore, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz and Maggie Mahboubian; Third Row:  Ellen Covey and Tania Ruben; Fourth Row: Sherri Sebastian, Ashely Eden Kessler, Saskia Wilson-Brown, Daniel Karasofski ,Irina Adam and Amber Jobin

 June 14, 2014, perfumer Maggie Mahboubian collected a good representation of Indie perfumers for the second annual FRAGments underground and artisan perfume show in Los Angeles. I was unable to attend, but  based on Guest Contributor Stevie Wilson's Event Report , it seems like a fine time was had by all, and I was lucky to receive a package of assorted offerings from the perfumers in attendance. Most of the vendors were artists well-known to me,  to ÇaFleureBon and to our readers, like Ellen Covey of Olympic Orchids, Mario Gomez of Mario Tomas, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes (how I would have loved to meet her!), and her protégé, the 2014 Art and Olfaction award winning Amber Jobin of Aether Arts, among others. But as I perused the samples, I realized that though a name was familiar, maybe the perfumes were some I only smelled briefly or not at all. I decided to just tease you with an example from some of these collections.

Spider Leaf photo by Asia

Of course, one of the perfumes would have to be from the show’s hostess, Maggie Mahboubian of Lalun Naturals. I received a sample of her Phenomene Verte II, a new version of her Phenomene Verte containing "felted botanicals" which was part of her "Touch Me" Installation. Phenomene Verte II is a complex natural scent that has a sunny, warm center surrounded by herbs and flowers. I visualized a complex nest made of a variety of twigs and herbs and blossoms, with a golden, pulsing orb in the center, glowing softly. Maggie both grows and wildcrafts plants for her own tinctures, which gives her fragrances a distinct personality.

Notes: Artemisia californica tincture, Yarrow tincture, Lime Leaf tincture, Jasmine grandiflorum tincture, Bay Leaf tincture, Rosemary tincture, Thyme tincture,Amber accord, Vetiver, Lavender absolute, Labdanum

Still from "Jules et Jim" by Francois Truffaut

Heather Kaufman’s brand, Jolie Laide, has perfumes named after French movies, and Jules et Jim, one of the more famous French films, is also a good jumping-off place to inspire perfume. Oakmoss is the basis for a woody fragrance that is great for a walk in the Great Outdoors. It’s a cozy, intimate scent, with a soft mossy drydown, and is all-natural. If you like scenting your scarves when you go strolling to watch teh seasons change, Jules et Jim would be a good one.

Notes include: coumarin, oak moss, lavender absolute, bergamot

Goddess White Tara poster

I had heard about Libby Patterson Organics, but hadn’t tried any fragrances. As a fan of orange and orange blossom, naturally I gravitated to White Tara Love Goddess, which is nicely loaded up with those aromas. Juicy bright orange essence with orange blossom and jasmine bloom on the skin, with orange essence at center stage. The juiciness warms up a bit toward the drydown, but never loses that sweet orange aroma. The combination of these ingredients may seem simple, but achieving that kind of airiness in a natural perfume is difficult. This one is transparent and lovely, and I’m impressed.

Notes: citrus, sweet orange, orange flower absolute, jasmine sambac, jasmine grandiflorum and benzoin resinoid

 

This is just a taste of the excellent craftsmanship represented at FRAGments. I hope Maggie keeps this up and I can go next year.

My samples were provided by Maggie Mahboubian – my thanks to all the perfumers!

Tama Blough, Managing Editor

Thanks to the generosity of Heather Kaufman of Jolie Laide and Libby Patterson of Libby Patterson Organics we have a special draw for two USA readers.  Your choice of 15 ml EDP  Jolie Laide Jules et Jim or 10ml White Tara Love Goddess  from Libby Patterson.  Please let us know  your choice and what appeals to you about this article and the fragrances I reviewed. Draw ends July 13, 2014

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