Perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Petfumes has released four fragrances for Spring 2014. Two are new – Metropolis and Peony (from the DAWN line), Fire Opal, a reinterpretation of the scent by the same name from a few years back and White Lilac which has happily been rescued from the archives.
"Spring Peony" by Mindy Newman
For something warming and airy that is also floral and vernal, there is Peony which is composed around thick full blossoms accompanied by a remarkable chorus of floral notes singing peony’s praises and celebrating her. A violet leaf accord and petit grain punctuate the bright opening of bergamot and neroli, recalling the dark bitter leaves and budding stems of the bush. A sensual weaving of rose oil and absolute trimmed in Egyptian geranium accents her creaminess, warming to a piquant precociousness. When all is sniffed and done, oak moss, tamed gently by iris root, creeps over sandalwood and Indian patchouli while its strange sharpness becomes tinged with balmy tolu and animalic ambergris. This perfume has shown me what a complex beauty this short-lived flower can truly be. Sillage: above average. Longevity: above average.
Dawn has restored the scent White Lilac is an uncommon perfume. Lilac is a flower that does not give up its aroma through distillation, so this fragrance is composed around a stunning accord that smells photo realistic. Adding drops of honey to crisp apple and sweet clover recreates that fruity fresh initial whiff we catch on warm winds. Lighter and more ethereal than purple lilacs, the white lilac is rarely represented in perfume. Subtle neroli lends powdery aspects to the composition as beeswax increases texture, rounding out the more indolic notes. This stunning floral rendering is anchored firmly with ambrette and musk. White Lilac is an excellent example of a blended soliflore, because it smells very genuine to its namesake. I have many scents in my collection that celebrate my all-time favorite flower; this outshines them all. Sillage: good. Longevity: very good.
"Metropolis" by Angelo Cerantola
Metropolis is targeted to lovers of smoky and woody perfumes. Dawn meshes modern accents like glass, metal and concrete with the primordial wonder of the natural world. Her layering of bergamot, aldehydes and petit grain over sandalwoods, rich patchouli and a double-dose of musk had me enraptured. A blending of geranium and blood-red roses add class and a hint of passion as animalic notes smolder and writhe. Thick yet supple leather, and the aroma of motor oil unite sexy and dirty, in the finish, with an underpinning of mossy elegance. Landing squarely between modern sophistication and intense primal ferocity, Metropolis is magnificent. Sillage: above average. Longevity: excellent.
"Fire Opal 1" by Marta Zamarska
The warm iridescent glow of the flame-colored gem sparkles in Fire Opal 2014.This scent was originally released as “Fire Opal, orange no.2” from the Chroma collection was one of my first DSH samples and an instant love for me. This reformulation, was inspired in part by a conversation with Editor-In-Chief Michelyn Camen about the need for more happy and uplifting fragrances after a long and trying winter. In this version, the focus is on brilliant stone itself more so than the fire within. The original was a spicier citrus and finished on a woody incense base. The newer version amplifies the citrus with a burst of green at the top. sweet orange (what Michelyn calls “nature’s Prozac”) and Israeli blood oranges. The addition of black tea to the fuller floral body of this adds grace to a chypre finish complete with moss and patchouli. Sillage: above average. Longevity: good.
These perfumes sang to me of spring and rebirth, and as always, I anxiously await anything new from Dawn's talented imagination.
John Reasinger, Senior Editor and Natural Perfume Editor
All four scents are available for sale on the company’s website in various sizes and concentrations. Those interested in the original Fire Opal (Orange no.2, natural) can email Dsh@indra.com or call the shop in Boulder, CO. There are bottles left for sale, though it’s not listed online. The two versions are different and I highly recommend the first.Each perfume’s extensive list of notes and ingredients are listed on the DSH Perfumes site and are directly linked above.
Through the generosity of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz and DSH Perfumes we have a sample set that includes 3 ml of all four fragrances in EDP concentration to give to one US reader. To be eligible, please leave a comment stating which of these perfumes you might like best and that you live in the US. Draw will end on April 23, 2014.
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.