Fragrance Review: Therapeutate Parfums Taosi  (Rodney Hughes) 2015 + Self-Portrait of a Perfumer

Self Portrait: A Perfumer by Rodney Hughes©

 

"I am connected to the world through a mobile device,

But scent is my hearts desires to illustrate what the soul needs.

I am nature, a phenomena happening on an invisible canvas

Painting landscapes of oil and absolute, Reaching towards heavens applause

An earth fallen Angel, black winged and irreverent, a sermon in the making

Yes, you can smell me I am the perfume scenting the temple,

A multi-sensory veil of illusion awaiting the birth of beings unprecedented in valor

I trail the spirits of earthen vessels at the pit stop of their greatest creation story, wise beyond stars in the cosmos

If I were a color, I would be black for in she, the rainbow resides double bridged and unabbreviated

I am fragrant like a sound wave tracing through the galaxy a distinction captured in the hidden I

A perfumer and my mobile device” -Rodney Hughes, 2017

Rodney Hughes of Therapeutate Parfums

Rodney Hughes, formerly the Natural Perfume Editor for ÇaFleureBon and the highly lauded perfumer of Therapeutate, his exquisite line of perfumes are another milestone in my growing and deepening love of natural fragrances. The world of natural perfumes is a whole other slice of the perfume pie, a brand new rabbit-hole to dive into. It has been a grand and very interesting adventure indeed. Not only have I met wonderfully talented and terrific perfumers, but so much of natural perfumery is tied to historical context (…and I love history), that the opportunity to delve further into the past has opened up for me, a whole new chapter in my personal annals of perfume.

Ruud van Empel © ( This painting reminded MC of Rodney as a child; I saw photos and he always dressed beautifully and still does)

It’s like discovering that your world of fragrance has expanded twenty-fold. I write this because in working my way through Therapeutate Parfums by Rodney Hughes’s marvelous range of all-natural perfumes, it is crystal clear that we often look to the past to create for the contemporary, and this concept when done well, can shatter any preconceptions you might have about how history actually IS driving modern perfumery. Much has been written about Mr. Hughes’s wonderful creations which have garnered acclaim, reviews abound, as well as well-deserved awards, including ÇaFleureBon’s Best Natural Perfumer 2016. So it was a surprise to discover that his glorious aromatic fougere “Taosi” has flown under the radar when it clearly deserves LOTS of attention.

Still from William Kentridge's video Notes Toward a Model Opera

Taosi is named in honor of China’s ancestral roots in Africa and the migration from Africa to Asia thereby establishing the first five Chinese dynasties. Historically dismissed as myth or legend, it is only recently with the advent of modern DNA research, that the proof of African genetic markers has been found in the first Chinese population. The fragrance also references a cataclysmic deluge and the green and lush re-awakening of the land after such a global re-set.

Madeline Jones' Wonderful Garden, 1977, mixed-media collage, 14 x 16. ©

Taosi is an aromatic fougere in the classic sense, but also so much more as it changes and morphs throughout the wearing. This stunning perfume opens with fresh spring-like herbal and citrus notes shot through with pepper, nutmeg, and the cool minty breath of rosemary. Underneath is a hint of the oakmoss in the base to come. The middle is a fantastic explosion of florals overlaid with that same oakmoss, and the emphasis is on the dewy rose and spicy dusty geranium, ultimately transforming into a quasi-gourmand drydown made sweet with vanilla, and underscored with creamy jasmine and buttery ylang. Wearing this beautiful perfume kept reminding me of something beloved, but I couldn’t quite put my finger on it.

 

Jacob Lawerence The Lovers 1946 ©

The first day of wearing it, you could still smell it as I went to bed. That night at about 2:00 a.m. my spouse woke me to ask if I had dabbed some of my magical vintage L’Heure Bleue Extrait by Guerlain, and that’s when it clicked for me. Vintage L’Heure Bleu Extrait in all its powdery glory. Taosi is not the same of course, but there is definitely a similar vibe and DNA. Taosi has longevity that few naturals do…10 hours and more. Thank you Mr. Hughes, you have created yet another spellbinding bottle of beauty in Taosi. Notes: lime, neroli, pepper, bergamot and orange, lavender, rosemary, basil, geranium, nutmeg, rose, hyssop and laurels, vetiver, vanilla, ylang-ylang, oakmoss, jasmine and spikenard Himalayan (jatamansi).

Disclosure: Many thanks to Rodney Hughes for supplying the samples, and the opinions are my own.

–Robert Herrmann, Contributor

Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in Chief

Thanks to the generosity of Rodney Hughes and Therapeutate Parfums, we have a draw for 10 ml of Taosi EDP for a registered reader in the US and Canada.  To be eligible please leave a comment with what appeals to you about Robert’s review of Taosi, if you are familiar with Rodney’s work and where you live. Draw closes March 1, 2017

We announce the winners only on our website and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

 

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17 comments

  • Richard Potter says:

    Oh, Robert, your words enslave me. This sounds fabulous and reawakens my curiosity about this brand. This sounds fabulous.

  • sserser says:

    Loved the review – the description definitely reminded me of “something beloved”, something so familiar and intimate but hard to define. I’m not familiar with Rodney’s work yet but am really looking forward to learning about it thanks to this post. I’m in the US. Thanks!

  • Angie Cox says:

    Simple I am a huge fan of L’Heure Bleu and the chance to smell something similar stirs my senses .

  • cardinalmind says:

    Wow from former editor now a perfumer! The vivid description of the scent along with his experience with the fragrance is what appealed to me. I’m not familiar with Rodney’s work and is looking forward to smelling it.
    I live in Hayward, California.

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    Thanks for the review. Aha…. Taosi has similar vibe and DNA of Vintage L’Heure Bleu Extrait. That’s wonderful and the longevity is another plus point. Definitely for me. Never tried any of Therapeutate Parfums till today.
    Thanks to the generosity of Rodney Hughes and Therapeutate Parfums and Cafleurebon for the opportunity to participate in the draw by letting my relative adess in NY, US.

  • fazalcheema says:

    This is an educated review as I was not aware of Chinese ancestral roots in Paris. The comparison to L’Heure Bleue is also intriguing. I have not tried anything from Rodney yet. Thanks a lot for the draw. I am in US.

  • BlessedTA says:

    Interesting article. Thanks for the history lesson – I wasn’t aware of the Chinese/African migration.

    Thanks for the draw. I’m in Canada

  • Gail Gross says:

    DNEM even though I would LOVE to try this! My first experience of a fragrance by Rodney Hughes was Royal Water. I fell in love with Royal Water when it was a finalist in the Summer of Patchouli Love project a few years ago. Rodney is such a talent – perfume, visual art , poetry! Amazing.

  • doveskylark says:

    I love L’Heure Bleu and I love nutmeg and pepper, so I would very much like to try this fragrance. That a natural perfume can last for so many hours makes me want to try everything from this line.
    I live in the USA.

  • liquidasset77 says:

    This has been a very insightful review of what a aromatic fougere brought to life by words should be. I’m from Detroit Michigan and this is my introduction to this dynamic perfumer and his line. I can’t wait to sample and hopefully one display his fragrance line in my shop.

  • Ellen M says:

    I also wasn’t aware of the Chinese African connection. Loved the review. I’m not familiar with Rodney’s work, but I would love to become acquainted. Thanks for the draw. I live in the USA

  • Greg Sh says:

    I’m not aware of Rodney’s work. This fragrance sounds great! Loved the read. It being long lasting is a big plus in my book. I’m in Canada and thanks for the draw

  • ntabassum92 says:

    I love anything that smells like vintage but isn’t vintage (aka harder to find intact.) Also, so fascinating to hear the history, I had no idea of such a migration but it is amazing. I am not familiar with Rodney’s work, but would like to be – and I am in the USA.

  • Sudi says:

    Spikenard Himalayan (jatamansi) is a smell that evokes childhood memories for me as I am from that region.

    I am really curious as to how it will be combined with all the other notes mentioned.

  • hofken says:

    Robert’s review of Taosi was both entertaining and informative, especially that “China’s ancestral roots in Africa and the migration from Africa to Asia thereby establishing the first five Chinese dynasties.” I live in the US and am not yet familiar with Rodney’s work.

  • Rox says:

    Perfume as an invisible canvas, what a thought! I learned some history today as well. Great read. I adore L’Heure Bleu, so I’m sure this would be awesome. I’d love to try. Thanks for the draw! I live in the U.S.

  • allaces says:

    Just based off of the ‘transformation’ of the fragrance that is described it sounds very intriguing. From a spring like herbal to oaks and florals to a gourmandish fragrance:) I am not familiar with Rodneys work but would love to try it out. I live in the USA. Thanks again for this review and sharing the knowledge and for this giveaway.