Fragrance Review Roja Dove Diaghilev: A Perfume in Three Acts + “Oscar Wilde And Sergei Diaghilov” 5ml Draw

 

If conjuring up spirits with perfume is a sin, then let my confession begin here. 

 

 

 

But I have an excuse.  We’re not talking about any old fragrance.  We’re talking about Roja Dove’s Diaghilev.For almost a week after my initial sniff, I was detecting this scent in my dining room despite wearing – of all things – Dior Fahrenheit.  At first, I attributed it to a phantom odor recall.  Ah, yes, I do get those.  Something akin to a drug flashback, or an olfactory daydream.  I thought it was, as the Rolling Stones said, just my imagination.  But it started getting strange.  It was too strong and too beautiful – as if a ghost was sitting next to me wearing it.  Only later did I discover the real reason – that paper blotter from my first sniff, dropped on a chair under the dining table.

 

 

 Now, of course, I'm supposed to say that I don't believe in ghosts.  Well, I would, except for the fact that I do.  For me, spirits aren’t spooky chain-rattling entities.  They are real forces in the information world, highly networked and profoundly influential.  Whether they share the consciousness of their hosts, I shall leave for others to decide.

 

Perhaps the spirit of Sergei Diaghilev was there with me.  Perhaps not.  But for several days, as I wore this scent dedicated to him, I could not help but think that if he were there, he would have loved it just as much.

 

 

Why?  I'll make it simple.  It smells – to this poor excuse of a scent critic – like a lost Guerlain.  It does not smell like a copy of any Guerlain I ever smelled, and yet it smells like a study of Guerlain.  Perhaps it was the liberation of Dove's assignment – to create a scent dedicated to the Mitsouko-loving Sergei Diaghilev – that freed him to do a true retrospective.  Perhaps he loved the very idea of Diaghilev as much as I love the very idea of every musician I've ever known – including my own son. 

 

 

Perhaps it was the ultimate academic brief for a Guerlain alumnus who – in my humble opinion – is not merely the Professor of Perfume, but the Carl Sagan of the fragrant universe.  Whatever the reason, I could smell the love of music, dance, and of the music and dance of perfume itself, in this fragrance.  And – oh, yes – the love of Guerlain.

 

 

I could go on, but you would probably say "Get a room!"  So I did.  For one sleepless night at the keyboard, inspired by this wonderful fragrance.    This passionate review, taking place somewhere in the dreamlike world of my alter ego, Redneck Perfumisto, pays homage to all the teachers of the musical and fragrant arts who I have had the honor and pleasure of knowing.If the spirit of Diaghilev should appear among theirs, it was only because he came to me on the fragrant cloud of a very special perfume.

 

 

The rapping of elderly knuckles on the apartment door gave away its cheap construction.  The old lady hesitated – doubting that any man residing there could be more than a charlatan.  Mustering up some belief, but unable to pronounce his name, she improvised.

"Doctor D.?  Are you home?"   Then, more bravely, "I have a young lady to see you."

Suddenly, metal and chain were in motion.  The door flung open.   A stout, well-dressed man in a terribly dated vest smiled at her.   His odd eyes made expression of more than bittersweet joy quite impossible.

"Please come in!   Allow me to introduce myself, Madame.  Ilja Davidov O'Hergé, at your service.”

The old woman fought an urge to ask for some kind of credentials.  Charmed momentarily by his pleasant demeanor, she told herself that she would snoop through his papers later.

"Well, Doc – if I may…"

"Most certainly, Madame!"

"This here be my best granddaughter Mitzl.  Say hi to the gentleman, Mitsy!"

"Mademoiselle – it is indeed an honor."

"Come on, Mitsy.  Talk to the man."

"That's quite alright.  No harm in a little feminine mystique!"

"There!  You see?  She don't act normal.  All the other girls is a-yakkin' and a-textin' away about that Bieber fellow.  And Mitsy just sits there.  So I brung her to your charm school."

"With apologies, m'lady – I most certainly do not run a 'charm school'.  However, I am said to have a knack for bringing out a young lady's inner beauty."

Carefully, the old lady leaned forward and whispered, nearly brushing her host’s goatee.

"That's what they tell me.  And that's what we need.  Inner beauty brung out.  You see, Mitsy here is a Guerlain."

"Really!"

The woman crossed herself.

"As God is my witness, she has Guerlain blood in her.  She ain’t got the name, but she's kin."

"Fascinating!  Indeed, I do believe I can see it."

"You're kidding!"

"Not at all, Madame."

"Why – you're just sayin' that.  I knew it!  You're no scholar.  You're…."

"Madame – please yourself to view my diplomas at your leisure.  But take heed of the true beauty in our presence, and dare not trample it with your doubts."

"Mitsy?"

"'Mitsy' – as you call her – is a classic beauty of the highest order.  There can be no doubt that Mistress Mitzl was named for her great-grandmother – the fabulous Mitsouko.  Yes.  Mitsouko – who stole the hearts of critic and performer alike."

"Well, I…."

"Mitzl, darling – let's have a look at you…."

"There.  Pouting as usual."

 

"Nonsense.  That 'pout' is nothing but lovely labdanum lips – warm and inviting, yet subtle…"

 And her bird's-nest of hair?  What about that?"

"Carefree topnotes of bergamot perfection!  She dares to remind me of the inspiring beauty of L'Heure Bleu!"

"Wait just a second, Mister.  You're not one of those pimp fellows…”

"Really, Madame.   As a man of the ballet, I have been called many things, but…."

"Forgive me, sir.  I…"

"Madame – with your permission, I accept.  Give me a month with your Mitsy, and I shall give you the beautiful young woman – no – the beautiful young Guerlain that was meant to be."

                                       ********************************************************************************************************* *************************

"Madame.  May I present the beautiful, mysterious, Diaghilev."

"Diaghilev?  What kind of name is that?  It sounds like a planet in Star Wars."

"My dear lady.  Exotic, perhaps, but so is our beautiful debutante."

"How come it ain’t a flower or something?"

"Madame.  Floral names are for strippers, trophy wives, and mainstream perfumes.  My sister as well, but let's leave her out of this."

"Sorry to offend, guv.  It's just so… Well, it's artsy."

"Madame.  Diaghilev is more than artistic.  She does not merely honor art.  She is art.  Every facet of her being tells a story – an honor to the era of her heritage, to her namesake, and to the scent he loved.  Hers is not a beauty imposed upon her by the lesser circumstances around us now.  Hers is a beauty born to return – rooted in history but flowering anew.  By her very nature, she transcends the modern world, remembering what art and joy cannot forget."

"My apologies.  Do go on, Professor."

"Mademoiselle."

"Oui?"

"As your final test, please take your leave.  You are free to go."

"As you wish.  Grandmother – good day."

"Charming!  How'd you get her to talk like that?"

"Positive reinforcement.  Come.  To the balcony."

"Oh, my!  You have a balcony?"

"Some may call it a fire escape.  However, I have no intention of leaving my music and piano behind in the event of inferno.  I shall play and sing to my rescue or my roasting."

"There!  There's me Mitsy!  Look at her!"

"Careful – let’s not interfere."

"The lady in the kimono is talking to her."

"I believe she just gave our lovely Diaghilev a compliment."

"Now that man."

 "A man of some means, I would say."

"Oh, my.  He's calling a taxi for her."

"It's her sophisticated chypre.  Just a hint of modernity, but classical in feel and construction.  A man of taste simply can't resist."

"I'm impressed!"

"Keep watching."

"Oh my.  That cowboy motorcycle person just threw his jean jacket on that puddle by the taxi."

"Yes.  He is undoubtedly intoxicated by hints of spice, as well as animalic and leathery undertones."

"Animal Undertones?  Lordy!  Is that the new line from Victoria's Secret?"

"You might say that."

"She's gone!"

"Ah, yes.  To the art museum.  Then the ballet.  Where she belongs."

"Oh my.  My oh my.  She's all growed up.  I think I'm going to cry."

"There, there.  Here – take my handkerchief."

"What do I owe you?"

"Not a thing.  The pleasure of seeing beauty to its rightful place is all that I require."

"Are you sure?"

 

"Quite.  Well, I suppose there is the small matter of paying that wonderful gentleman at Harrods for her new perfume.”

“A bottle of perfume?  Done.”

“Perfect.  However, I must confess.  That would be two bottles.” 

 

If you would like to try the finished product we have a 5mL sample of Roja Dove Diaghilev to giveaway. To be eligible leave a comment saying where you would like to be found wearing Roja Dove Diaghilev…the ballet, the theatre, a museum or someplace else  and for extra credit name your favorite Diaghilev production and Oscar Wilde Play or Book Draw ends August 27, 2011.

 

 –Neil Sternberg, Contributor

 

Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, EIC  

 

 

Editor's note:  Why Oscar Wilde  and  Diagilev? Dear readers, they were contemporaries and Neil presented Act 2 of this review of Roja Dove's Diagheliv in a style reminiscent  of Oscar Wilde 'Importance of Being Earnest'. Diaghilev was a tastemaker, a despot, a hustler and a genius, as was Wilde. They moved in the  same artistic circles. In Paris in May 1898, Diagheliv went to see Oscar Wilde,  and ten years later Wilde created the costume design for "Tragédie de Salomè." Act 3- Mitsoukou was created in 1919

 

"A work of art is the unique result of a unique temperament"-Oscar Wilde

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30 comments

  • What a spectacular draw 🙂
    I would most definitely wear Diaghilev during International Arts Festival Diagilev PostScriptum in St. Petersburg, this coming October…
    http://www.diaghilev-ps.ru/en/
    I would love to see the last production in a series of Ballets Russes – Nightingale opera by Stravinsky, adaptaion of H-K Andersen fairy tales, all my absolute favorites from early age 🙂

    Oscar Wilde book – Lady Windermere’s Fan: A Play About a Good Woman

  • I was first captivated by a recording of The Firebird when I was in high school. That recording (on vinyl, of course, and performed by the Seattle Symphony) inspired me to immediately seek out more Stravinsky.

    The Rite of Spring was next. I listened intently, and read everything I could get my hands on about Stravinsky, Diaghilev, and Nijinsky.

    This was the 1970s, and I would still give almost anything to see Nijinsky dance in The Rite of Spring, commissioned and produced by Diaghilev, written by Stravinsky.

    As for Oscar Wilde, I didn’t discover him until my college days. And while his “Ballad of Reading Gaol” remains my very favorite of his poems, “The Importance of Being Earnest” is still brilliantly funny, and no one should miss it on stage!

    If I were to wear Roja Dove’s Diaghilev, it would be to an art house movie theatre screening of “The Red Shoes.” The Landmark’s Century Centre Cinema in Chicago would do quite nicely.

  • splendid and so witty review… thank you
    I would like very much to try ” the finished product” and I think of 2 events it would have been most appropriate for me to wear it ( would it had been ” finished” at that time): the re-opening of Palais Garnier with Kylian’s “Arcimboldo” and at the performance of ” le tour du monde en 80 minute” in Laussane,only two weeks after the departure of Maurice Bejart (audience and dancers weeping toghether)
    as for Oscar Wilde, my first ever full text read in English, was”The Picture of Dorian Gray”I struggled but I loved it-more recently and, by bias of perfume reading, ” De Profundis”
    I would love to see Diaghilev’s “Apollon musagete”- I had the chance to watch large excerpts from his fantastic “L’apres-midi d’un faun”

  • i positively *adore* diaghilev (the perfume, that is.)

    it is, indeed, a guerlain of the best old school kind.
    no, really.
    this perfume alone establishes mr. dove as a great perfumer in my book.

    at one point, not too long ago, i was going to buy a bottle only to find that the dove-site did not have it available.
    at all.
    i got terribly annoyed — and then i forgot about it.
    but now i remember: i *really* want some!

    and i would like to be found wearing it — ah — frolicking… 😉

    p.s. fave production: oh, the rite of spring, without a doubt.
    shocking even now: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4coES_ei4PU&feature=related

  • This is a fascinating review; a lot of nice phrasing…love the comment that the fragrance “smells like a study of Guerlain.”

    I would wear Diaghilev to a Paul McCartney concert; it would be an absolute thrill for three of my senses.

    I too would love to see Diaghliev’s “Apollon musagete”; I read that it was a collaboration with George Balanchine, Igor Stravinsky and our gal Coco Chanel, so it has to be genuis.

    I’ve seen Oscar Wilde’s play “An Ideal Husband” and thought it was well done. Interestingly enough, our current society might be a better fit for Mr. Wilde’s wit and subtle cynicism than his own time.

    One of my favorite quotes from Mr. Wilde:
    “We are all in the gutter, but some of us are looking at the stars.”

  • taffynfontana says:

    I love this review!! Roja Dove sounds exquisite I would love to wear on my nape so my husband could draw close and caress my neck. I enjoy Oscar Wilde’s biting satire one of my favorites is Lady Windermere’s Fan, its deliciously wicked.

  • I would love a chance to try Roja Dove’s Diaghilev, is it available to purchase again? I would love to be found wearing it while watching the Royal Ballet at the Royal Opera House in Covent Garden, London.

  • At the Metropolitan Opera House in NYC attending an opera production. Thanks for the draw!!

  • Scentual healing says:

    I don’t remember ever reading such a creative review
    The style definitely reminded me of Oscar Wilde
    I suspect his ghost and Segei Diaghilev are making merry
    Definitely want to try this or any of Mr Dove’s fragrances as they are difficult to buy in the US
    My favorite Wilde book is the Picture of Dorian Gray
    And I saw the Firebird
    How interesting that history converged in his review
    I would wear Diaghilev any place where I wanted a gallant gentleman to take notice
    Please enter me in the draw

  • This sounds wonderful: A fragrance which projects the love of music, dance and Guerlain, it is a must try:-)
    I would have loved to be in that famous premiere of Sacre du Printemps wearing this scent, a reconstruction was made of Sacre but the shock of the first night must have been mindblowing. Of the musical pieces which Diaghilev commissioned for the Ballet Russes, this is my favourite.
    Of the surviving choreographies, les Noces is amazing, and incredibly modern, and will, I think, take my favourite spot. with L’apres midi and the stunning firebird close behind. All amazing ballets with great music and sets composed for them.
    Favourite Wilde, definitely The importance of being Earnest, I remember reading it in the tube, and constantly breaking out in laughter. Love it.
    Thanks for the highly entertaining post, and for the draw 🙂

  • Francesca Belanger says:

    Great post! I’d wear Diaghilev to the opera, especially something Russian.

    My favorite Oscar Wilde play is, natch,The Importance of Being Earnest,

    And I wish I could have seen Diaghilev’s production of Scheherezade.

  • I would wear Diaghilev while visiting the British Museum 🙂

    I have never seen a Diaghilev production, but my favorite book by Oscar Wilde is “The Canterville Ghost”. Well, actually it’s a short story.

    Thanks for the draw!

  • Where to wear Diaghilev? Why, to the Metropolitan Opera House of course!

    My favorite Ballet Russe production, from the time of Diaghilev, would have to be “Le Sacre du Printemps”, simply because it was so radical. I also love the drawings I have seen of the costumes.

    Favorite play by Oscar Wilde: “The Importance of Being Earnest”. Favorite book: “The Picture of Dorian Gray.”

  • I would love to wear this fragrance in Paris, seeing all the haunts of Diaghilev & Wilde. I loved “The Importance of Being Earnest”, and “The Picture of Dorian Grey” was a wonderful & disturbing read.

  • Oscar Wilde is my Patron Saint. I love “De Profundis” because it is so human and filled with fault and blame, unlike his usually so polished veneer. I would wear Diaghiliv to wash my dishes and pretend I was somewhere els.

  • chayaruchama says:

    Oh, Neil-
    I’m with Wendy, re De Profundis, but I love Wilde’s children’s stories, too…
    Especially the Happy Prince, SO sad !
    I adore Stephen Fry’s embodiment of Wilde in the film!!!

    I would wear Diaghilev to bed, to work-
    Anywhere I feel like it ;-0

    Such a hoot, Mr. Redneck ;-0
    Great job !

  • Thank you, everybody – I do love writing for such a kind and literate audience (it’s a bit scary, actually). Most of all, thanks to Michelyn for letting me smell this wonderful scent, which I never expected to try, much less review.

    I plan to wear my sample to the next evening at the ballet or symphony – no matter what. But also for a walk in the woods this winter – I think it would be perfect.

    Roja Dove has emphasized the sensuous nature of this fragrance, and I must agree after experiencing the full development. The opening is inspiring and the heart is captivating, but he drydown is wonderful and warm – almost but not quite gourmand. All that is missing – a lady’s neck or shoulder. (Or to be fair to Dove, the scent, and Diaghilev himself – perhaps a gorgeous man’s chest!)

    Indeed, I can recommend this one to the gents with no qualms, and in particular for my fellow “retroscentuals”, who love the old styles.

    I find Diaghilev’s life fascinating, and particularly his connection to Wilde. In some ways – improbable as it seems – the young Diaghilev reminds me (both in his likeness and his description) of Freddie Mercury in his early days. All three men flowering very differently, but gloriously.

    Again, thank you all for your kind words and wonderful thoughts!

  • Neil I am so glad you liked Diaghilev
    Your review just lent itself to a Wilde play
    I agree that our readers and our Contributors are really special and I hope you stay the redneck perfumista and not a bluestocking perfumista
    You add so much and we are happy you are on the team

  • Very well written! I really enjoyed this, and thanks for the draw. My favorite Oscar Wilde play is The Importance of Being Earnest. I also love The Picture of Dorian Gray. Favorite quote ever: “We are all in the gutter, but some of us are looking at the stars.”

  • I have raved and raved about Roja Dove’s gorgeous creation Diaghilev over on my blog ….
    you do not need to enter me in the drawe , I have a huge stash of Diaghilve …
    hardly a day goes by that I don’t wear it !
    The 250 ml aluminum flacons are available on his website , well worth the price .
    This amazing fragrance sits somewhere between Sous le Vent and Mitsouko , an eligy to the Guerlain library of scents no longer made or reformulated . Of all the 100’s of fragrances I own and have sampled over the years , it is by far my favorite . It justs pushes all my on-buttons !

  • Thanks for the very entertaining review. I definitely want to enter this draw as I’ve heard nothing but wonderful things about Diaghilev.
    My favourite Oscar Wilde play is The Importance of Being Earnest and the Diaghilev production I would most like to have seen is The Rite of Spring.
    I’d love to wear Diaghilev anywhere, but I’d enjoy wearing it to an upcoming production of a new movement-theatre piece, Tosca Cafe.

  • I have never smelled anything by Roja Dove and this perfume is on the top of my list of new things to try. I am looking forward to wearing this to a symphony concert, perhaps Stravinsky’s Rite of Spring (my all time favorite piece). ROS is an amazing work and the performance at the time caused rioting in the streets! The opening line – solo bassoon – is primative and dissonant. Audiences at the time were used to melodic classical ballet and this piece – instumentation, scoring as well as dance style and costumes – was so different. It was uncomfortable, primative.

    As for Oscar Wilde, I read Pictures of a Dorian Gray years ago and was captivated by the story: sell your soul and remain young and beautiful while your portait ages. It’s a great work.

    Thanks for the draw! I hope I win so that I can be introduced to the world of Roja Dove.

  • Most excellent piece! Not having had the pleasure of smelling any of Roja Dove’s this would be most welcome.

    Dorian Grey is the one for me (hailing from Hollywood it resonated).

    As for where to wear: The Metropolitan Opera House of course, on my horse in Carmen at the top of Act IV. Spread the gorgeous scent about!

  • Ah!
    This was an incredibly enjoyable read. One of the best ones in some time. Bravo, bravo!

    I would like to wear this assertive yet delicate and elegant scent for my first public workshop! Then for a dinner that would follow, and then for my time alone under the stars with my notebook, taking notes about the workshop and reflecting on the new path my life of the soul took me and my workshop participants. If it cannot be a working day, then a date with my husband, a nice dinner downtown and then a Symphony — they are playing Igor Stravinsky, of course.

    My favorite Oscar Wilde was Star-Child — yes, when I was a little girl. It is Dorian Grey now, hands down.

  • Neil what a great read! So glad to be able to partake of your skills.. I loved this article and what a great opportunity to experience Roja Dove to a lucky person. I loved The Importance of Being Earnest. Where would I wear this? Probably anywhere depending on how confidient I was feeling. I loved Neils comment It smells like a lost Guerlain.. I must admit I am a G Fan 😉 Great break out article Neil and I am sure you enjoyed the Sample.

  • marcopietro says:

    I’d like to wear this fragrance everywhere sitting in front at a fiery sunset, listening Debussy. I love “The Importance of Being Earnest”.