Malagasy artist Christophe Jean Michel is better known under the alias of Fofa Rabearivelo (no relation to the poet Jean-Joseph)
‘Make no sound, do not speak: eyes, heart mind dreams are about to explore a forest…A secret but tangible forest.’ Jean-Joseph Rabearivelo, Madagascan poet, 1901-1937
‘14°S 48°E’ by Vero Kern
If you use the co-ordinates in the title of this captivating perfume, you will find yourself located in the north-eastern part of Madagascar, near Ambanja: vanilla and ylang-ylang country.
Photo Courtesy Richard Lüscher Britos Natural Terroir Perfumes: Malvin Richard, Lukas Lüscher and Serena Britos of Richard Lüscher Britos Natural Terroir Perfumes
Malvin Richard, Lukas Lüscher and Serena Britos launched Richard Lüscher Britos Natural Terroir Perfumes in 2013. Malvin and Lukas are long-time friends who share a mutual passion for the marketing and minutiae of fragrance. Malvin’s father is Jean-Claude Richard a well known perfumer, so he has been exposed to the world of olfaction from an early age. Serena Britos is an expert in ethnobotany, a science that aims to explore the complex and vital relationships between man, cultures and fauna. Her knowledge and experiences were essential to the idea of creating niche perfumery using only natural raw materials inspired by the concept of terroir.
Terroir (‘land’ in French.) is a term more commonly associated with viniculture referring to a specific set of environmental conditions – soil, climate, geography etc – that impact on the taste and finish of the wine. Richard Lüscher Britos have endeavoured to map the key olfactory influences and traits within specially chosen fragrance terroirs across the globe. These include 04°N 74°W : Canton of Valais in Switzerland, 14°S 48°E’: Ambanja in north-eastern Madagascar, 44°N 03°E: Causse Méjean in Southern France, 04°N 74°W: the coffee plantations of Columbia and 38°N 16°E Calabria in southern Italy.
‘14°S 48°E’ Illustration Courtesy of Richard Lüscher Britos Natural Terroir Perfumes
14˚S 48˚E is Vero’s elegant fiction of Madagascar, lush with rain and steaming soil, skies exploding with water on the crops of cocoa, rice, pepper, coffee and vanilla in the fields below. Vero’s olfactive manifestation of this fertile terroir is a sublime mix of research, botanical fact and her own perfumed virtuosity. It is a scent of beauteous place and atmosphere, assembled with the utmost grace and delicacy. Vero has demonstrated great restraint in her handling of the key ylang-ylang motif, a note that can drown formulae with its unctuous fleshtones.
Painting: Christophe Jean Michel Rabearivelo Fofa
Almost perversely, she has ghosted this most fleshy of blooms, starved it until only a translucency of desire remains, an ambient glow of spice-washed petal and aerated corsage. Madagascan green mandarin, Messina lemon and the fragile crumble of baies roses (pink peppercorn) add texture and sweet heat to the floral haze. It is lightly dusted in cocoa and a lithe frangipani note imparts a little moist mystery.
‘14°S 48°E’ Illustration Courtesy of Richard Lüscher Britos Natural Terroir Perfumes
There is a strange roasted corn nuance in the base that I think is the vetiver Vero has used…. It throws me backwards to childhood, winding down the windows of air-conditioned cars as we travelled dusty African wreck-strewn roads, smelling roasting corn in the heated air, cooked by women dotted along the routes, thrilling flames with lovingly shaped cardboard fans, back and forth over the squealing cobs. Corn never tasted as good again.
Perfumer Vero Kern
I asked Vero if she could elucidate her scented workings for me; I was intrigued to know how challenging it was working with organic and natural materials. ‘..I wanted to create the terroir scent with complete oils, so no fractions or isolates….The difficulty with complex oils is that they are proper blends with sometimes up to 400 components and therefore must be very carefully mixed together. I had the additional problem with my main component of Ylang Ylang as the use is restricted by IFRA. After many trials however it seems time now, that my creation, my tropical coastal jewel, reflects the many facets of its unique terroir.’ Vero Kern, July 2014
Painting: Artist Christophe Jean Michel Rabearivelo
Ah… my dear Vero… a coastal jewel indeed. The more I wear this secret and tangible scent, the more I fall in love with it. 14˚S 48˚E is outstanding olfaction by a perfumer at the height of her powers and deserves scrutiny, skin and a certain kind of romantic obsession.
–The Silver Fox, Senior Contributor and Editor of The Silver Fox
Disclosure – My own collection
Sample Set 44°N 03°E Mystic Violet Hills by Andy Tauer, 04°N 74°W : Canton of Valais in Switzerland, 14°S 48°E’: Ambanja in Madagascar, 44°N 03°E: Causse Méjean, 04°N 74°W: the coffee plantations of Columbia and 38°N 16°E Calabria in southern Italy.
We have a sample set of 2ml each of all five Richard Lüscher Britos Natural Terroir Perfumes 44°N 03°E Mystic Violet Hills was composed by Andy Tauer). for a US, EU or Canadian reader. Please leave a comment with why you would want to try 14˚S 48˚E, and what you found intriguing about this review by August 6, 2014 and where you live. You can follow Richard Lüscher Britos on Facebook to learn more about the founders journeys and olfactive philosophy.
Editor's Note: I chose the beautiful paintings of Malagasy artist Christophe Jean Michel (better known under the alias of Fofa Rabearivelo). His works appeared in St. Petersburg exhibitions about 10 years ago and attracted attention by their exceptional tranquility and authenticty, having an almost magical quality. I felt his splendid art helped bringThe Fox’s review of 14°S 48°E to life. When choosing the paintings it is through synchronicity that the poet Jean-Joseph Rabearivelo and Artist Fofa Rabearivelo share the same name, not google, which freaks me out a bit. -Michelyn Camen, Editor-in Chief
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