Lydia Hearst by Alix Malka for Flair Magazine, 2006
Shakespeare may have said “A rose by any other name would smell as sweet,” but when it comes to perfume, names can be deceiving. Such is the case with two fragrances from M. Micallef: Black and Pomelos.
M. Micallef Black (2011) Photo: Camille Rowe for So It Goes Magazine by Guy Aroch, Spring/Summer 2014
Black comes in a gorgeous, Swarovski crystal-studded black bottle that looks like something a genie would reside in, and that’s the only dark thing about it. While you would expect a scent with such a name to be heavy, mysterious and include M. Micallef's signature oud, it’s a sunny, feminine floral executed in optimistic shades of white and yellow. Created by Geoffrey Nejman and Jean-Claude Astier, Black (which is referred to as Black Ananda on some sites) opens with citrus top notes of bitter orange and lemon accented by a slightly sweeter plum. At this stage, the fruit notes are ripening while the sparkling aldehydes tease the nose like a bottle of Perrier-Jouet Champagne. The intoxication continues with a floral heart of spendy-smelling ylang ylang, jasmine, and a buttery, creamy tubereuse that skips the potentially headache-inducing indoles. Base notes of vanilla and musk combine to create a slightly powdery sensation, adding a youthful savoir faire to the mix. The woman wearing this has no problems greater than where to go on holiday. We know fragrance names often aren’t meant to be taken literally, but if we were naming this based on inspiration we probably would have called it "Heiress".
M. Micallef Pomelos by M. Micallef(2002); Photo Model Holly Mae Saker, Elle France, 2014
Also composed by Geoffrey Nejman and Jean-Claude Astier, Pomelos was inspired by the citrus fruit of the same name, which is not unlike a grapefruit but sweeter. With such a name, you’d expect a cologne-like fragrance. Instead, for most of the journey you get an earthy floral. Pomelos does open with tart notes of mandarin, grapefruit, and rhubarb. Initially it smells to me like the pith of an orange, but that impression dissipates very quickly as the heart notes come to the forefront. Florals of peach blossom, jasmine, and lily mix with an iris that smells as if it was just picked from Van Gogh's painting, with a little bit of the dirt still on it. Base notes of cedar and sandalwood ground the florals and a hint of musk provides a breath of fresh air. Pomelos leaves the impression of a countryside flower garden far longer than it does a breakfast fruit.
On my skin, both fragrances have excellent longevity (still noticeable overnight). Black projects sillage throughout the room, while Pomelos is more of a skin scent. Their names may present a paradox, but both perfumes have their own unique charm as the signature aesthetic of Martine Micallef and Geoffrey Nejman is ever present. My heart at the moment belongs to The 2014 Art Collection Puzzle 2, but both Black and Pomelos are worthy contenders for my olfactory affection
Disclosure: Review based upon deluxe samples provided by M. Micallef.
— Nancy Knows, Sr. Editor & Beauty Editor
Partners in love and in perfume: Martine Micallef and Geoffrey Nejman of Parfums M. Micallef
Thanks to the generosity of Martine Micallef and Geoffrey Nejman of Parfums M. Micallef, we have a worldwide draw for one 100 ml bottle of a CaFleureBon reader’s choice, Black or Pomelos. To enter, please comment mentioning which one you would like to win (and why).Please let us know your favorite M. Micallef fragrance along with where you live too. Draw closes July 23, 2014
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume