Fragrance Review: M. Micallef Black (Collection Ananda) and M. Micallef Exclusif Pomelos + What’s In A Name Perfume Draw

Lydia Hearst FlairMagazine

 Lydia Hearst by Alix Malka for Flair Magazine, 2006

Shakespeare may have said “A rose by any other name would smell as sweet,” but when it comes to perfume, names can be deceiving. Such is the case with two fragrances from M. Micallef: Black and Pomelos.

M. MicallefBlack CamilleRowe So ItGoes Magazine

M. Micallef Black (2011) Photo: Camille Rowe for So It Goes Magazine by Guy Aroch, Spring/Summer 2014

Black comes in a gorgeous, Swarovski crystal-studded black bottle that looks like something a genie would reside in, and that’s the only dark thing about it. While you would expect a scent with such a name to be heavy, mysterious  and include M. Micallef's signature oud,  it’s a sunny, feminine floral executed in optimistic shades of white and yellow. Created by Geoffrey Nejman and Jean-Claude Astier, Black (which is referred to as Black Ananda on some sites) opens with citrus top notes of bitter orange and lemon accented by a slightly sweeter plum. At this stage, the fruit notes are ripening  while the sparkling aldehydes tease the nose like a bottle of Perrier-Jouet Champagne.  The intoxication continues with a floral heart of spendy-smelling ylang ylang, jasmine, and a buttery, creamy tubereuse that skips the potentially headache-inducing indoles. Base notes of vanilla and musk combine to create a slightly powdery sensation, adding a youthful savoir faire to the mix. The woman wearing this has no problems greater than where to go on holiday. We know fragrance names often aren’t meant to be taken literally, but if we were naming this based on inspiration we probably would have called it "Heiress".

MbMicalle Exclusifs Pomelos Holly Mae Saker Elle France

M. Micallef Pomelos by M. Micallef(2002); Photo Model Holly Mae Saker, Elle France, 2014

Also composed by Geoffrey Nejman and Jean-Claude Astier, Pomelos was inspired by the citrus fruit of the same name, which is not unlike a grapefruit but sweeter. With such a name, you’d expect a cologne-like fragrance. Instead, for most of the journey you get an earthy floral. Pomelos does open with tart notes of mandarin, grapefruit, and rhubarb. Initially it smells to me like the pith of an orange, but that impression dissipates very quickly as the heart notes come to the forefront. Florals of peach blossom, jasmine, and lily mix with an iris that smells as if it was just picked from Van Gogh's   painting, with a little bit of the dirt still on it. Base notes of cedar and sandalwood ground the florals and a hint of musk provides a breath of fresh air. Pomelos leaves the impression of a countryside flower garden far longer than it does a breakfast fruit.

On my skin, both fragrances have excellent longevity (still noticeable overnight). Black projects sillage throughout the room, while Pomelos is more of a skin scent. Their names may present a paradox, but both perfumes have their own unique charm as the signature aesthetic of Martine Micallef  and Geoffrey Nejman is ever present. My heart at the moment belongs to The 2014 Art Collection Puzzle 2, but both Black and Pomelos are worthy contenders for my olfactory affection

Disclosure: Review based upon deluxe samples provided by M. Micallef.

Nancy Knows, Sr. Editor & Beauty Editor

martine micallef and geoffrey nejman of m micallef

Partners in love and in perfume:  Martine Micallef and Geoffrey Nejman of Parfums M. Micallef

Thanks to the generosity of Martine Micallef and Geoffrey Nejman of Parfums M. Micallef, we have a worldwide draw for one 100 ml  bottle of a CaFleureBon reader’s choice, Black or Pomelos.  To enter, please comment mentioning which one you would like to win (and why).Please let us know  your favorite M. Micallef fragrance along with where you live too.  Draw closes July 23, 2014

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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62 comments

  • My favorite Micallef is Ameera, which I believe may be discontinued? I’m grateful to have a full bottle of this as well as Night Aoud. I would love to win Black for the bottle as much as the fragrance notes! I reside in the USA. Thanks for the opportunity!

  • Anastasia says:

    My favorite M. Micallef ffragance IS Pomelos, it’s brilliant! I would love to win a bottle of Pomelos! Thanks for the great article!! I was delighted to learn about the romantic partnership behind the brand! Thank you for this generous opportunity!

  • Black sounds wonderful — I think the bottle is beautiful, and the citrus and plum combination sounds intriguing! US resident. Thank you for the draw!

  • Thank you for this great draw!I am in the US and I would love to win Black for its combination of citrus and white flowers. Of course, I also really love the bottle. My current favorite M. Micallef fragrance is Ylang in Gold.

  • I’d love to win Black. That bottle is gorgeous. And the notes also sound fascinating.
    Unfortunately, I haven’t had a chance to try any of M. Micallef’s perfume. Hopefully this will be my introduction to the line. I’m in Canada

  • My favorite is Nasreen. I’d love the Pomelos, because I like grapefruit. I’m in the US

  • Black would be my choice, but its very hard for me to pick my favorite Micallef fragrance since there are several that are quite beautiful. Ylang in Gold is gorgeous, so is the Mon Parfum Cristal. And the bottles are works of art, gorgeous. I am in the US 🙂

  • silvrolive says:

    I would love to try Pomelos for the juicy top notes and the peach blossom, jasmine, lily, iris combination. It all sounds delicious!
    I live in the US. Thanks for the draw!

  • Taffynteddy+1 says:

    I would like to try black I love the notes plus that the scent is loud and unapologetic. I live in the U.S. I have yet to try a M. Micallef fragrance Thanks again

  • Black for me — I’m a big fan of citrus and plum! Of those I’ve tried from the house, I really like Yellow Sea. I live in the US.

  • I am with Claudia, picking a favorite M Micallef if a difficult task for me as well. I own several and each is a favorite every time I wear it. Ylang in Gold is a favorite as well as Pomelos, not to mention my gourmand love of Aoud Gourmet, Black is also on that list, in no way am I heiress but it certainly makes me feel like one. I would choose Black as mine is almost gone and I’m starting to panic. The bottles are just as exquisite as the perfumes the enclose. I am in the US.

  • Nyal Dillimore says:

    I have no M.Micallef scents but would love to own one<3
    Black would be my choice because tuberose is one of my absolute favourite notes, as is jasmine and vanilla. I am only just getting into Aldehydes, I have mostly been an Oriental fan up until now. I love Citrus scents too but after trying 'Black by Kenneth Cole' and wanting more than the scent had to offer, I believe 'Black by M.Micallef' will satisfy my perfume needs;)

  • I admire M. Micallef’s Rose Extreme. Such a gorgeous bottle for a remarkably beautiful rose fragrance. I would love to try Black because it sounds gorgeously luxurious. I am in the US.

  • I would fancy winning the M. Micallef Black- very chic! I have not had a chance to try the other perfumes by M. Micallef so perhaps this would be my favorite. generous draw, thank you. I live in New Zealand.

  • Marcopietro says:

    Both fragrances sound beautiful, but my choice is Pomelos. I love Citrus, grapefruit and rhubard. About Black, I have some difficulty in digesting tuberose and aldehydes.
    I live in Italy.
    Thanks for the great draw!

  • I’d like to try Black, I too am drawn to that bottle and I prefer the note structure to Pomelos.
    I’ve not tried many from M.Micallef, I think I liked their Orient Vanilla best.
    I’m in the EU, ty

  • I live in the UK many miles from a serious perfume store so such items of beauty are so rare. I would get almost as much pleasure from handling and looking at the Black bottle as I am sure I would get from wearing the wondrous sounding scent inside. I have been lucky in sampling dome of the M. Micallef Oud collection which were truly lovely but this sounds wonderfully feminine. Good luck to all 🙂

  • Black would be my choice. Description sounds wonderful and the bottle is very beautiful too.
    My current favorite is Arabian Diamond.
    I’m in Russia. Thanks for the draw 🙂

  • Black ! for the plum and the genie. this will be my favorite Micallef, as i didnt have the chance to know them. I live in EU

  • I live in the US and I would love to try Black. I haven’t a favorite Micallef yet- maybe this could be the one.

  • I am a fan of M. Micallef, after trying many samples, my favorites are Vanille Orient and Ananda. I would love to own a full bottle, and my choice would be Black, as I would love to find a scent with tube reuse that I can enjoy. I live in the US. Thanks for this amazing draw!

  • julesinrose says:

    Though I wouldn’t mind wearing a scent that makes me smell like an hieress (lol) my pick would be Pomelos. I’m a fan of both lily and iris notes and prefer my scents to be close to the skin. I have a packet of Micallef samples right now and haven’t tried them yet, so I don’t have a fave just yet. Thanks for the draw. Am in the US.

  • I like the Micallef Vanille Aoud. And I’d like to win the Pomelos just because I would prefer something with citrus than tuberose. 🙂 isa

  • When it comes to favorite Micallefs, I have two: Gaiac and Nasreen. I would like to win Pomelos as it’s one that I’ve been interested to try… it kinda fell to my back-burner, so this feature was a nice reminder. 🙂

    I am in the US. Thanks for the draw.

  • Jeannie 07 says:

    Black would be my choice because its notes from bitter orange and lemon, sweet plum fruit notes, ylang ylang, jasmine, creamy tubereuse up till its base notes of vanilla and musk…. really this perfume must be one of the kind!!!!
    Also because of its name since black is one of my favorite colors and because of its bottle which is a unique masterpiece.
    Forgive me but I never had the chance to even try one of M. Micallef’s perfumes.
    I hope Lady Luck will do me the honor to experience one.
    I live in EU and I thank you for this lovely draw.

  • I love Micallef perfume and avante garde and royal rose oud are favorites
    I would like to win Black
    Beautiful !
    Great review

  • Smack dab in the middle of summer, Pomelos sounds like just the ticket! I think Gaiac is my favorite M. Micallef fragrance, but would love to sniff both…Pomelos wins this time out, though, and I live in the U.S.

  • Jennifer Witt says:

    I would love to try Black. The fact that it is long lasting appeals to me, plus the notes sound lovely. I don’t have a current Micallef favorite, they are all so nice… I live in the US.

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    thanks for the extremely generous draw…i am attracted to Pomelos more because it has many notes i enjoy such as iris, musk, sandalwood and cedarwood..another thing i like about it is that it is more intimate than Black which has greater sillage though most people prefer high sillage…some notes like musk in my opinion are better suited to skin scents …i am in the US

  • This brand has some wonderful, non-harsh ouds that I love: Gourmet, Rose and regular. I have been wanting to try other things. Recently, I sampled their Rouge and it was wonderful. Id love to win the Black because that bottle is simply stunning. Im in the US.

  • rodelinda says:

    I would love to try Pomelos because it’s more of a skin scent. My favorite M. Micallef fragrance is Black Sea, and I live in the US. Thanks!

  • Choosing one of these is tough, but I decided on Black because of the heart notes of ylang ylang, jasmine, and tubereuse. This sounds like drama! The bottle is also lovely, but I’m more interested in what’s inside. I like Gaiac by M. Micallef very much. I’m in the US.

  • I live in the EU and would love to try Black. I haven’t had the chance to try many Micalelefs but my favorite so far is Rouge No. 2.

  • Black sounds beautiful and a perfume I would like to wear on a summer evening in Hawaii. That would be my choice. I will look out for this brand when I am next in New York. I am traveling for the next 2 weeks but I am in the US.

  • I’ve tried Pomelos which I like for it’s brightness, but I’d love to try Black! It sounds divine, with the fruit, vanilla, and creamy tuberose, so that would be my choice! My favorite Micallef is Note Vanillee. I am in the US!

  • Black would be my choice . I like the juxtaposition of the dark bottle and the bright perfume. I have tried and liked many Micallef’s but my favorite is Rose Extreme or Watch.

  • Both of these sound wonderful and exciting. From the notes listed, I can only imagine how great both these must smell and Nancy did a great job at describing the smells. Based on that, I would most likely enjoy Black for its beautiful intoxication.

    I’m in the US

  • I have yet to try any Micallef scents, but Black sounds amazing. It sounds like a lovely blend of richness and tartness. I am in the US; thanks for the generous draw.

  • Black sounds great and the bottle is just beautiful !
    My favorite is Note Ambree. Thanks for the draw, from Romania.

  • To be honoust I haven’t had the opportunity to test enough Micallef fragrances to form an opinion of my favorite. That said until now I preferred Gaiac.

    I live in the Netherlands and my choice would be Pomelos, because in no way I’m carefree enough to pull off Black and besides that Pomelos sounds perfect 🙂

    Thanks Martine and Geoffrey for this wonderful draw. And thanks to ÇaFleureBon for making this draw possible.

  • The article is gorgeous. I was never try M. Micallef fragrance yet. My choice would be Black because the notes are very interesting.
    I live in Europe.

  • This review is fantastic. I was never try M. Micallef fragrance yet. My choice would be Pomelos because the ingredients are very lovely.
    I live in Europe.

  • Donna Spiegel says:

    I am actually drawn to both of the notes. I love the citrus, especially this time of year and the floral aspect of the Black fragrance also pulls me because I often find myself having to decide between those two fragrance notes. I haven’t yet tried any of the M. Micallef fragrances, so would be delighted to have the opportunity now of course. Thank you very much for the draw. I live in the US. I love the photo that is at the top of the article. Such a great use of colors. By the way, the couple looks so in love!

  • Oh my goodness, how to choose? They both sound so lovely. I would probably choose Black, as the bottle is gorgeous, but the notes in Pomelos could have been made for me!

    I live in the US, and of the samples I have tried from M. Micallef, my hands-down favorite is Rose Extreme. I know it sounds silly, but I got tears in my eyes the first time I sampled it!

    Thank to Cafleurebon and Ms Micallef and Mr Nedjman for this generous draw. (They are such a romantic couple!)

  • Cynthia Richardson says:

    I would like to win Black because it sounds ultrafeminine and I love ylang-ylang. This sounds deliciously floral and juicy. I have not tried any other M. Micallef fragrances. I live in the US.

  • Hard choice! I would love to try both but Black a little more I like the addition of plum and the bottle is gorgeous. Don’t yet have a favorite – would love this to be it! I’m in the US.

  • Haven’t tried anything yet from M. Micallef. I do want to try their ouds. The black bottle is definitely magically genie like. Tuberose is a very fascinating note for me even though I don’t wear but i find it a very complex note. It almost has a bite to it. No wonder many classics have been made around tuberose. Such fragrances become very much a reference study of perfumes for me or I can give this beauty to someone special.
    Thanks USA.

  • One of my favorite houses, this! I have Ameera, Arabian Diamond, and Ylang in Gold. Oh and Gaiac, of course. I would love to win Black because I am a ylang/jasmine/tubey fan and I would be fibbing if I said it had nothing to do with that fabulous black bottle with Swarovski crystals! I live in the US. And thank you 🙂

  • DeePanda893 says:

    I would like to win Black because of the ylang ylang and tuberose notes. I do think that Pomelos sounds equally as lovely and hope I can get around to smelling it! Sadly, I haven’t had a chance to smell any M. Micallef creations yet. I live in the United States.

  • I’ve liked all of the Micallef perfumes I’ve tried. Even the ones that are not entirely my cup of tea are really beautifully done. My favorites so far are Pomelos and Rouge No. 1. I’m in the US, and I would choose Black if I won the draw–that bottle is irresistible.

  • Pomelos is one of M. Micallef’s fragrances I like very much, though I haven’t worn , only tried it a couple of times. And I would like to win this one. It is not a cologne, but with a cologne freshness. It is not a chypre, but with a chypre elegance.
    The other scent I love from M. Micallef is Sous Le Figuier – succulent intense fig I cannot get enough of!
    I am in the EU.

  • I would love to enjoy a bottle of Pomelos. It sounds lovely!
    Of the fragrances that I have tried, Ylang in Gold has been the most amazing.
    I live in the U.S.
    Thanks for the draw.

  • Valentine girl says:

    Once I went backpacking in Thailand and stayed in a small village very far to the north. One night, on my way to the communal dining table for dinner, the air was permeated with the most incredible fragrance that was emanating from a huge tree that was covered in white blossoms. I asked someone what the tree was that smelled so good and was in full bloom… oh, that would be the pomelo tree, was the response. Oh it smelled incredible & I would love to try Pomelo. Also having lived and worked in Arles for a summer, I appreciate the Van Gogh reference. Besides Pomelo, I always wanted to try Ylang in Gold. The bottles are absolutely exquisite. USA resident.

  • I would choose Black – never smelled any of them but I like tuberose note in perfumes and prefer floral composition. Thanks for draw. Greetings from EU.

  • I would love to try Pomelos because of its lighter aspects. I haven’t tried anything from this house yet so I’d really love to get my hands on some. I live in the US. Thank you for the generous draw!