Stella McCartney Chiffon Dress via W Magazine

As I stood in front of Dior’s Collection Privée at Bergdorf Goodman, I realized how fortunate I was. The Collection became available in New York City this September, and prior to that one had to work hard to get a hold of any of the thirteen fragrances. The beautifully hued and impeccably placed perfume bottles stood side by side with their magical magnetic tops that twist back and close automatically. There were three rows of single note raw materials to smell and experience. It’s absolutely ingenious to place the raw materials so close to the finished fragrances, it helps to deepen the entire experience. Dior’s single note of Leather Oud makes one finally understand the meaning of “noble” raw materials; the clear Oud was nothing like anything I could have imagined. It was as if I smelled fine aged balsamic vinegar or perhaps a smooth grappa. Roberta, Dior’s fragrance expert was engaged and super helpful with additional insights. I had Eau Noire in my hand and on my pulse points. I left Bergdorf knowing the evening was off to an excellent start, perhaps even a noble one.

Alexander McQueen Oyster Dress of Silk Organza

That same night, I dreamt about fabric. Yards and yards of floating silk chiffon, that turned into weighted silk organza. The dream was peaceful; chiffon was floating all around me, and then the organza dropped down from out of the sky and wrapped itself around my body like a protective cocoon. When I woke up in the morning, Eau Noire with all its tenderness and warmth was still on my skin.

I realized the dream had given me insight about the structure of the fragrance. The warp is the thread that runs the length of fabric; and tends to be made of stronger material; the weft is the thread that runs from side to side, which is more flexible. Similarly in this fragrance, the warp, or the strength of its structure comes from the Helichrysum flower, also known as Immortelle, or Everlasting. This note is honeyed, syrupy, and has undertones of tobacco, and is the strong vertical fiber of this fragrance. Eau Noire's weft opens with a fragrant crescendo that is herbaceous, anisy, camphorous, and balsamic thanks to the incredible Lavender and Licorice notes. As these slowly settle, they have the same protective cocoon effect, like the organza in my dream. Virginia Cedar and Vanilla Bourbon bring a neat sweetness to its base. The simplicity of Eau Noire’s structure lies in its contrasts, initially it makes a grand entrance then it turns around and becomes the quiet sensual slow burning one in the room, this makes it an incredibly intimate fragrance.

Eau Noire was created by Perfumer, Francis Kurkdjian in 2004 under the guidance of Hedi Slimane, as part of a trio for men, but this woman joyfully wears it.

–Valerie Vitale of Soliflore Notes, Monthly Contributor