Fragrance Review: Cacharel Noa- Close Encounters of the Perfume Kind

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Audrey Tatou as Amelie

Sometimes a perfume trail can bring pleasure or pain, especially while riding the subway. Close encounters of the commuter kind can find us running away to avoid a scented sting, or perhaps we find ourselves close-up to an incredible fragrance that is just on the tip of our tongue, and with a swift exit, it is gone forever. As a perfume writer these drive-by encounters tend to fuel and delight me. Once on street level the fun continues as perfume seems to merge with the pace of the city streets. I spot luxurious sidewalk whiffs,  Le Labo Santal 33,  Hermes Jour d’Hermes, Angel,  Olfactive Studio Flashback.

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Evening on the Hudson by Leon Dabo

Perfume encounters also happen in elevators. Making the ride up or down for better or worse, or sometimes even magical. One magical moment recently happened in the early morning a few weeks ago as I was on the way up to the office. I felt a tres Amélie (the 2001 film) moment coming on. Before I noticed the stylish young woman in a cobalt blue mohair coat with a perfectly hued pout. It was her incredible, yet delicate scent that woke me up. The elevator suddenly filled with a magical perfumed landscape that I had never encountered before, and as I inhaled I was transported to some transparent hazy world that I found hard to distinguish, was it floral, ozonic? I looked slowly up, and there was a young woman with sparkle in her eye, and it made me happy to fantasize that this young woman might love fragrance as much as I do. We smiled at each other as we parted.  Later that day, we stood waiting together for the elevator. When I asked her how her day was going. In a French accent she said she was nervous because it was her first day as an intern. It was apparent that she had no reason to worry; she was just perfect. We entered the elevator together and I just had to ask her the dreaded question….what fragrance was she wearing? She said, “It is Noa by Cacharel, you might not know about. I didn’t.

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 Olivier Cresp and his 1998 creation made me instantly think about how his compositions tend to gently perplex, and whisper not to be identified specifically. They want to be experienced. Noa is a beautiful round composition that transports my mind to delicate studied landscapes. The landscapes of Tonalist painters who wanted to show the quiet and mystical side of nature. The fragrance sings one harmonious tune, and remains strong in its will to remain subtle, yet striking. A dear friend mentioned it was one of the most underappreciated fragrances of the 20th Century. I agree.

–Valerie Vitale, Editor

Have you ever asked someone you didn’t know the name of their fragrance?  What do you think is an underappreciated perfume?

Editor’s Note: Please join us in congratulating Valerie on her promotion to Editor. I agree with Valerie that Noa flys under the radar. It is available at Parfum 1 for under 50.00 or at Fragrance.net

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21 comments

  • Sandi L says:

    I love perfume encounters like this. I have asked on several occasions this very question. Loved reading this article and Congratulations, Valerie on promotion to Editor. Now I’m going to check out the links posted for this under the radar. 😉

  • ringthing says:

    Oh, Noa is lovely, a perfect background scent. I don’t have opportunities for many perfumed encounters but usually when I ask, it’s a drugstore musk that smells so good.

  • bohobabe says:

    Oh I wish I could get in lifts and be blinded by beauty but instead all I ever sniff is sweet synthetic florals!!! Ack! Although there’s this air stewardess here in my apartment block who wears I think Chanel Coco Mademoiselle. You’re too lucky Valerie! And congratulations on your promotion!
    Oh. I have tried Noa. A long time ago. I had a miniature but don’t remember how I got it. I did remember enjoying the scent though. Must check it out again.

  • ringthing says:

    Oh, I forgot to mention my favorite unappreciated perfume: Mauboussin
    Histoire d`Eau, perfect for fall, with cardamom and a green tangerine note that smells like potpourri and lasts forever. And bonus, found a decant of Noa in my stash, I’ll wear it today. Congratulations, Valerie!

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    i have Noa’s mini tucked somewhere..really beautiful bubble-like container…i have smelled some wonderful perfumes but never have stopped anyone to ask for the name.i just stand there and smell for as long as the scent lingers in the air

  • julesinrose says:

    Congratulations, Valerie!
    Thank you for a lovely story.
    I have been delighted and amused when I’ve caught a whiff of something lovely and discovered (after asking) that it was the person’s cheap shampoo. One comes to mind, and it reminded me not to be such a snob about scent.

  • Poodle says:

    Noa is really a scent that flies under the radar. It’s beautiful yet for some reason never had the popularity it deserves.

  • Barbara says:

    I ask people what they’re wearing all the time. One time it was Guerlain, the rest of the time it’s Elizabeth Taylor or some Victoria’s Secret or Bath and Bodyworks thing.

    What surprises me the most is when somewhen tells me they don’t know or don’t remember. Are they afraid I will “steal” their scent, or do they really not care, which is something I can’t fathom!

  • Nemo says:

    Congratulations for your promotion, and thank you for the lovely story! I think for some reason, I ask men what they are wearing more often then women. That is probably because not very many men around my building wear perfume, and so it is notable to me that that particular person actually takes the time to find a perfume that they enjoy! I also find that men are more likely to have one “signature scent.”

  • AD says:

    Noa is a charming one – soft and more interesting than what I initially expected it to be.
    I never asked anyone what they’re wearing but I remember smelling Coco Mademoiselle on someone walking in front of me and it was really good. I only wish it smelled as good on me.

  • Qui says:

    Such a beautiful review I feel as I was with you on that elevator
    I haven’t heard of noa but will seek it out immediately
    Thank you for the links too
    Once in London, about 7 yrs ago was at a friend of a friends party and I chatted with a woman who smelled heavenly. That is how I discovered Orris Noir. I bought it at their shop.Alas it did not work for me , but I smell it and I have wonderful memories of my travels

  • Harper says:

    ah, my niece, when she lived in italy, used to wear this one:
    i have visions of riva in the fall
    (mist rising from the lake and all.)

    and congratulations, valerie 🙂

    also, i do habitually ask people what they are wearing.

  • Sue K. says:

    I was riding the Rapid Transit in Cleveland with a friend, now gone, many years ago. Back then the Muslim vendors sold perfume oils that came in metal cans and weren’t copies of other fragrances. Some of them, like Somali Rose, were pretty good. The best of all was one called Darba. I have no idea what this fragrance might have been because I’ve never smelled anything like it before or since. It was an exotic floral oriental that dyed my skin yellow. The sillage was remarkable. An older gentleman was sitting in front of us and turned around to ask in an Eastern European accent, “How long will last this beautiful fragrance?” He has a look of reverie that made me think he was hearkening back to another time in his life. I told him, “At least until tomorrow.”

  • taffyj says:

    Congratulations, Valerie, on your promotion to editor!

    I do ask people what they are wearing. I try to catch up to people who waft wonderful scents. Perfume stalker.

  • Cynthia says:

    My first exposure to Noa was years ago in a department store, before I started dodging the perfume sprayers waiting at the entry. I was spritzed with Noa and was pleased enough with how pretty it was to buy a bottle. It is long gone, but perhaps I need to check it out again. I have often asked people what perfume they are wearing, but the time that stands out was when I stopped a business meeting to ask a woman what was her scent. I HAD to know. It was Estee Lauder Private Collection. I still love it.
    Congratulations on your promotion to editor!

  • Devon H says:

    Congrats Valerie! I’m so glad you spotlighted this fragrance. I’ve been wanting to explore more of old Cacharel’s stuff. I have been a long-time fan of Anais Anais, but for some reason I haven’t ever taken the time to explore Noa and LouLou. Thanks to you, I’m already hunting online for a bottle. I can’t turn down peony. 🙂 Also, I ADORE the movie Amelie!

    I often ask people what they are wearing, I feel no shame! Even if I’m just curious and don’t particularly care for it, I always say, my that smells nice, what are you wearing? Almost everyone smiles and quick to share.

  • Valerie says:

    It’s freeing to wear a perfume that can live as it wants on its own terms, void of current trends, hence NOA. Thanks so much for your responses and kind wishes too. Valerie

  • Gypsy Parfumista says:

    I know *I* love to be told I smell good and also love “turning people onto new perfumes” when they ask me what I am wearing. I always ask people what scent they have on…and even though I am loathe to admit it, the scent I have complimented most women on is B&BW Warm Vanilla Sugar!!

    IZOD, Liz Claiborne Graphite Blue and Kundalini (by XOXO) are all amazing scents you can get for a song at any discount retailer (US) like TJ (TK in EU) Maxx or Marshall’s.

    I have a small decant of NOA from a dear perfumed pal in London, UK. I am going to endeavor to dig it out and wear it as it is cool (not cold) and rainy here in the Northeastern US today. Its notes of fruity musky green-kissed peony, prancing into a warm floral heart and resinous incense dry down would be just the ticket today.

    Thanks for reminding me about this beauty, Valerie! 🙂

  • Rebecca hodges says:

    While visiting my mom I noticed on a dresser in a spare room a small collection of Avon vintage bottles/juice. One of them was “here’s my heart” I must’ve smelled it 10,000 times as a kid and thought hmm Avon eh well as a smarter and wiser person now let me say wow it’s a beautiful fragrance and I sure wish I could get my hands on a bottle. Just lovely soft powdery floral.

  • Eva says:

    Maravillosa reseña pero el creador es Olivier Cresp y no Harry Fremont. Amo a Noa, es la fragancia que me define.

  • Julie B says:

    This is an old review but loved reading it. I loved Noa back when it first came out. I don’t keep fragrances too long – I wear them out, and then I move on to something different. However I decided to pick up a bottle of Noa again. I’m making it my “retro” pick lol. I don’t know how it will hold up with the noses of today 20+ years later? Will it smell dated on me? Who knows we shall see. But still smells so soft and beautiful to me, so that’s all that matters!