Esxence 2018: Le Galion L’Ame Perdue (Rodrigo-Flores-Roux) 2018 –Perfume Review + Soul Salvation Draw

Illustration by Homer Conant, c. 1920s

 “Each flower is a soul opening out to nature." Gerald De Nerval

Natalia, photo by Lucretia Lee

The soul is said to be the essence of life, the fragile, incorporeal aspect of our ourselves. Damage a soul and it goes adrift, waiting for grace to restore it. Perfumes, too, have a sort of soul, an individual essence that can distill other times, people, even particular feelings for us. When overlooked by time, they are lost, falling out memory. The first fragrance of the great Paul Vacher, owner and perfumer of Le Galion, became such a l’ame perdue (lost soul). But now, Le Galion creative director Nicolas Chabot and Givaudan master perfumer Rodrigo-Flores Roux have reclaimed it. Le Galion L’Ame Perdue , beautifully reimagined as a modern floriental with a distinctive vintage shimmer.

Nicolas Chabot and Rodridgo Flores-Roux

No one creates florals with a more fine-tuned sense of history than Flores-Roux. In his hands, the past and present are seamlessly interwoven, and his mastery of blending retro styles with modern ingredients is showcased beautifully here. Le Galion L’Ame Perdue opens like a sepia painting of a still-life: bright dabs of citrus come forward, gauzed over. The lemon is stripped of acidity; the orange, the bittersweet aroma of peel rather than juice. Paring down the tartness and sugar allows the flowery aspects of the fruit to blossom. As the citrus rounds out, a fresh, ingenue Jasmine skips in, and the dance of florals that dominates L’Ame Perdue begins.

Ziegfeld Girl, c 1920s

The second stage brings out a bit of vixen. Lily, with its nutmeg creaminess, and banana custard ylang catwalk their way into the middle, all sultry fleshiness. As they move into the foreground, a tickly, muted spiciness – white pepper combining softly with cardamom – adds a masculine tinge that balances all that voluptuous sweetness. The fragrance sways a bit between masculine and feminine here, before a velvety rose nudges Le Galion L’Ame Perdue back into a more overtly floral direction.

Femme Universelle fashion editorial, photo by Giampaolo Sgura for Vogue Germany, Feb 2014

In the middle stages, Flores-Roux reaches back through time. Vanilla and amber lay down an oriental carpet for the florals to recline on, in echo of 20s orientals such as Shalimar. The longer Le Galion L’Ame Perdue sits on the skin, the richer it becomes. Benzoin, vanilla and woods transform that florals into a golden sumptuousness that feels vintage. But the citrus never fades away, as it so often does, stepping back quietly, allowing balsamic and woody notes to seep through. The continual presence of citric and spice notes lightens the composition, giving it a modern-retro duality

Linda Evangelista, c. 1995

Drying down, the citrus melds with woody and spice notes and comes to rest on its ambery, resinous bed. This lovely creation ensures that Vacher’s first fragrance is no longer lost, but a modern beauty with an old soul.

Notes: Lemon and green mandarin from Sicily, cardamom, coriander seeds, white pepper, datura scentrek, Jasmine Egypt & sambac imperial absolute, Bulgarian rose, ylang ylang moheli, red lily, cloves, cinnamon of Siam, plum, mirabelle, patchouli Singapore, amber, benjoin Sumatra, balsam of Peru, rosewood, duo of vanilla extracts (Madagascar and Mexico Papantla) honey, Adriatic oak moss.

Thanks to the generosity of Nicolas Chabot, we have a 100 ml bottle of Le Galion L’ame Perdue to give away to one registered reader in the U.S., Canada or Europe. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about Le Galion L’ame Perdue based on Lauryn’s review, where you live and if you have had a chance to try any Le Galion perfumes. Draw closes 5/19/2018.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like ÇaFleureBon and use our Blog feed … or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume. 

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40 comments

  • Gabriel Garcia says:

    L'ame Perdu, sounds bright and modern but with a retro vibe, that on Rodrigo hands can activate that air of the past, I have admired his work closely.Las Vegas NV

  • DespinaVnt says:

    I’m very drawn to the perfume’s chameleonic character and its modern-retro duality.
    Its soulful, melancholic name is also very attractive to me.
    I’d be thrilled to try it.
    I have been blessed to smell Le Galion’s iconic Sortilège in its vintage formulation, and it was truly glorious.
    I also love the contemporary Cologne Nocturne and Sang Bleu.
    I live in EU (France).
    Thank you,
    Despina.

  • I have wanted to try Le Galion L’ame Perdue ever since I first heard about it. I love the name and the notes and the work of Rodridgo Flores-Roux. He created one of my top 10 favorite perfumes. Lauryn’s review confirms that L’ame Perdue is a very lovely fragrance. I have not tried any Le Galion perfumes. I live in the USA.

  • Le Galion house is one of the kind, because of its retro/royal appeal, having a true heart of art and not a mainstream approach. I absolutely love the original Sortilege, my Mothers favorite, which is a wonderful creation, sadly Le Galion is really a rare find in my country in Europe, having a chance to try L’Ame Perdue would be real treat.

    I live in Europe, Lithuania.

  • What a spectacular review – I love the way Lauryn casts the notes of the fragrance as characters acting out a scene on stage! L’Ame Perdue sounds like one of those compositions that seamlessly blends both modern and vintage sensibilities – those are some of my favorite types of fragrances.

  • I’m not a big fan of florals but Lauryn’s review was awesome. Now i think i will have to try this juice 🙂 Thanks for this nice draw, i live in the EU.

  • Richard Potter says:

    Great review! I love the thought of Lily and Ylang doing a cakewalk. I adore Le Galion, especially Sortilege and Sang Bleu. I also love Rodrigo, especially El. This sounds like a winner for me. USA

  • What a perfect name for this perfume! This review confirms that this is a complicated composition carefully constructed. I like the idea that “the citrus never fades away.” I live in the US.

  • I have never had a chance to try any of Le Galion perfumes, but I always wanted to, maybe because the name of the house. The galleon ships are always impressed me. The most beautiful ships made ever. Those large, wooden, warships looked like that they were have even soul…
    Anyway, back to the fragrances. L’ame Perdue sounds wonderfully from the base of the review. And the notes sounds also fabulously. Thank you for the chance. I live in Europe.

  • Le Galion is my favorite perfume brand and I use Sang Bleu and Cologne. I have tried and liked several other Le Galion perfumes too but these are my favorites. Now I have earlier got Iris, Sortilège and Snob as samples for my wife and while she really liked them all, I always felt that there is something extra special when she tries something on that has this bit of spicy, oriental, sensual notes. Reading the review for L’Ame Perdue above, I realise that this is my wifes perfect Le Galion perfume that I have been missing. Warm, a bit mysterious, spicy and at the sime time floral. I would love to be able to present her with a beaufiul surprise gift.
    I live in Sweden.

  • joan mansbach says:

    I can envision my Mother in a sumptuous veil of Sortilege. It was her favorite and I recall her letting me hold the bottle. Scent definitely creates such a memory. And now, reading of this tantalizing mix that Le Galion has composed only makes me more desirous of its captivating possibilities. How I love the concept of a modern beauty with an old soul. Add to all this the fact that I am addicted to lush florals, I can hardly wait to experience L’ame Perdue. I reside in the U.S. Thank you.

  • Just Add Light says:

    Never had a chance to try anything from Le Galion. But I’m an IMMENSE fan of everything from Rodrigo, especially his creations for John Varvatos. The teetering between leaning masculine and feminine before diving into a base of amberiness, vanilla and woods is definitely what intrigues me most about L’Ame Perdue. That, and the name of course – which some may argue describes me to a tee (nervous chuckle). And the addition of sumptuous plum? Magnificent. Canada.

  • I have tried a few from this line and been impressed–Tubereuse and Sortilege come to mind. I like the duo of strong notes with a retro vibe watered down to a more easy-to-wear level. The combination of vanilla, benzoin, lightened b y the citrus, sounds very appealing. Thank you for the review and draw. USA

  • Love the name – lost soul. Would love to try, thanks for the opportunity. I’m in the US.

  • fazalcheema says:

    Le Galion L’ame Perdue looks like an interesting gourmand from Rodrigo Flores that pays tribute to classics like Shalimar. I have several of the vintage from Le Galion but have not tried any latest release. I am in US

  • Love the review! I’ve tried the scent but still haven’t purchased as I have no retailers near me but it’s cintage vibe is mererizng! I’ve tried some like 222, Iris, Special for Gentlemen but L’Âme Perdue is on my wishlist!! Hope to win a bottle!!
    I live in the EU – Spain!

  • I’m a fan of a number of the vintage Le Galion scents, in particular, Sortilege, Snob and the elusive Cub. I tried a few of the modern Le Galions a while back and I was particularly drawn to Special for Gentlemen. L’Ame Perdue sounds perfect for me-a rich retro floral. I’m in the US.

  • jeremyn87 says:

    I really enjoy the scent of citrus peels, and use essential oils to get that smell. The added pepper makes me think it’ll have some similarities to lalique white?
    I havent tried any from the house yet.
    I’m in the US.

  • What an evocative review! I like the reference at the end to modern beauties old souls, aren’t those the best? I have not had opportunity to try anything from this house yet. I am in the US.

  • roxhas1cat says:

    I loved the opening lines about the soul. Interesting comparison, both the soul and fragrance are unseen, but touch parts deep within us. I’ve not tried anything from this line. The banana custard, nutmeg as well as the twists and turns this fragrance makes sounds like a winner to me. Thanks for the chance! US.

  • Soul and Fragrance, makes you think. Extensive review, looks like a lot of fun. So many new fragrances, I have tried some of the Eris line. Mx sounds interesting. I live in the US.

  • tashagood says:

    I ve tested it once.It’s a stunner! You described it perfectly! Straigt on my wishlist. I live in the UK.Fingers crossed.

  • m.r.everything says:

    Let me start by saying thank you for the opportunity, as usual! When Lauryen stated that this is in the echo of 20s orientals such as Shalimar, it really caught my attention. I own Shalimar, and while it may be iffy for some to like, I love it. It is a classic that still smells amazing. It is elegant, rich, and exuberant. In the echo of Shalimar, and with the notes list on this reworked masterpiece, this sounds right up my alley! I have never tried any of Le Galion fragrances. I live in Delaware! Thank you again for this awesome opportunity! It is greatly appreciated!

  • Interesting review!
    I enjoyed descriptions of every stage that beautifuly represented by Lauryn. I like Shalimar and perfumes like Shalimar, so think the middle stages of L’ame Perdue will be awesome for me.
    I began to be interested in Rodrigo-Flores Roux creations after Lauryn’s appreciation him as “No one creates florals with a more fine-tuned sense of history”.
    US

  • This is my kind of perfume and I much liked the end part where it’s described as “a modern beauty with an old soul”. I love these Galion bottles, they’re like this perfume, modern with an old look. Thanks, I’m in Europe.

  • Anna Egeria says:

    This fragrance really appeals to me. It’s wonderful that the “lost soul ” of the house of Le Galion has been reclaimed. I’ve worn Tubereuse and Jasmin and my mother wore vintage Sortilege. I’m in the US and thank you for this draw!

  • Any fragrance that opens up “like a sepia painting” deserves to be tried. When I was a little girl I received a bottle of Le Galion Sortilege. Someone had gone to Paris and had assumed that my father’s daughter must be older than I was and brought it back for me. It was a very grown-up fragrance, but I enjoyed its richness anyway. I live in California.

  • Lori Laws says:

    This review was amazing and I enjoyed every word! I love how descriptive it was and I felt like I was on this journey with Lauryn in each act. This is what solidified it for me “The second stage brings out a bit of vixen. Lily, with its nutmeg creaminess, and banana custard ylang catwalk their way into the middle, all sultry fleshiness. As they move into the foreground, a tickly, muted spiciness – white pepper combining softly with cardamom – adds a masculine tinge that balances all that voluptuous sweetness. The fragrance sways a bit between masculine ands feminine here, before a velvety nudges Le Galion L’Ame Perdue back into a more overtly floral direction.” I have never tried any of Le Galion’s fragrances and now this is at the top of my wishlist! I live in the US and thanks for the amazing opportunity! 🙂

  • Wow, whole lot of notes. This perfume sounds interesting. First time hearing of this House. A retro fragrance into modern.
    Would like to try this out. Thanks for the giveaway
    California

  • doowtnehpets says:

    I like the description of the fragrance of all the notes kind of dancing in and out. And that note breakdown itself, holy moley. Never tried Le Galion. Albuquerque NM USA here.

  • James2473 says:

    Very nice review, Lauryn! Le Galion L’Ame Perdue sounds absolutely delicious! So many different notes in one fragrance has me intrigued about how it smells on skin. I have yet to try any of Le Galion’s offerings, but plan to get my nose on some soon. I’m located in the United States.

  • NiceVULady says:

    I love everything about this fragrance. The richness, the sense of vintage vibes, the notes…oh my goodness. I love Snob, so I am going to have to try this. Thanks for a wonderful review and for this wonderful draw. Fingers crossed. I live in the USA

  • kaitracid says:

    If the photos chosen are like the perfume, then it’s a winner. Who doesn’t love a good vintage with a modern twist? I know I do 🙂
    The longer it remains on the skin the better becoms is something rare for these times, when most of them try to smell good at the top and the dry down is usually a faux woody/amber.
    Great giveaway! I live in Europe.

  • doveskylark says:

    I love that a lost fragrance from the past is found. The lost soul metaphor in this review is so appropriate. I love fragrances that cross gender lines suggesting the vixen, the ingenue–and I love the idea that a man could be thought of as a vixen and an ingenue. This is the future of perfume. I have never tried anything from Le Galion.
    I live in the USA.

  • I like floral perfumes!
    And read this article with pleasure.
    This perfume has so beatiful ingredients, such as citruses, jasmine absolute, ylang ylang, rose and “strong” notes- oak moss, balsamic notes, patchouli, pulm etc. Very rich perfume!
    I tried only one perfume from La Galion, do not remember name.
    USA

  • I’m glad to see L’Ame Perdue getting so much love on here. It was one of my favourite perfumes at Exsence and I think the entire Le Galion line is one of the best house comebacks for many years.

  • The name of the fragrance is so perfect! The notes are beautiful, starting off fresh and mixed with such gorgeous floral notes. The dry down sounds so resinous and sexy. I’d love to win this. I’ve never tried anything from this perfume house.
    I live in the US.

  • Love the name, and floriental scents. I have not tried other scents by this house, but this sounds absolutely lovely. I live in the US – thank you!

  • I haven’t tried any Le Galion scents but have heard good things about the line and this citrus-themed one sounds like a great choice for summer. I am in the U.S.

  • RoseMacaroon says:

    Where to start, the whole thing is hugely evocative — I love polarities brought together and coexisting in one place. The description of this, swinging between feminine and masculine, and modern-retro beauty in which we discern brightness and clarity of citrus, with ultra-feminine florals, and with rich and sumptuous vintage base, opens up intriguing possibilities and makes me want to spend time with the fragrance while contemplating these polarities. I just have to see if the same concepts would emerge for me! This is what makes reading reviews such a fun component of the world of perfume. Also, it sounds like a lily that absolutely must be tried! — as someone who finds them challenging.
    Thank you for the beautiful review, and the draw! I’m in the US.