Esxence 2015 Report: New Perfume Discoveries + Nishane Istanbul Boğaziçi Draw

cafleurebon press badge esxence

My second day at Esxence was spent scouting on my own and with Sr Contributor Megan.  Which newcomers might be the scent stars of tomorrow? Which fragrance concepts excited us and what smelled different from the many new collections exhibiting?  Some are not 2015 “new”, but for us it was our first time experiencing them.

nishane instanbul

Nishane Istanbul founders Murat Katran and S.Mert Gurzel

Nishane Istanbul:  Murat Katran and S. Mert Guzel, (both born in Instanbul)  established the first Istanbul based House in 2012. Turkey is the only country that literally bridges two worlds; Asia and Europe.  Since antiquity the Bosphorus (Boğaziçi), the strait that separates two cultures has fascinated artists, poets, merchants, adventurers and conquerors.  Introduced at Esxence were their new extraits de parfums which according to Murat took five years of intensive research, finding the right accords, perfumers  and endless rounds of revisions  in order to bring the  true spirit of  Istanbul to life.   I usually shun large collections and there are 16 perfumes; but each fragrance represents a place, an ingredient, a continent, a country, a time in history.  The presentation is outstanding.  Each fragrance has a name and a number and is accompanied by a beautiful post card.

afrika oliphant

Loving all things visual, the use of watercolors to convey the mood of each scent really spoke to me. On the back the notes and fragrance category are printed. I have taken an initial sniff and so far 7 Munegu (Monaco), 16 Afrika Olifant and 4Passion Choco really stand out after preliminary testing. The first, Munegu,  is sensual dark floriental rich with amber cedarwood, cumin, nutmeg geranium, ylang, with base notes of tobacco, patchouli, frankincense.  Munegu 7  growls like a panther, yet is regal but not for the timid. Even  for a cumin phobe like me, the drydown is sublimely elegant.  Definitely took me out of my comfort zone. 16 Afrika Olifant will most likely appeal to CaFleureBon readers who like their fragrances animalic and smoky; frankincense, castoruem, civet, leather, oud and musc are right in your face. There is no mistaking which continent you are on here. 4 Passion Choco smells wonderful on me. Passion fruit, coffee, caramelized grapefruit, dark chocolate, linden, orchid, coriander, vanilla, benzoin, patchouli and dark musc may sound heavy , but is almost sheer and perfect for warm weather. All Nishane extraits are available in 50 ml and are sold for 180 Euros (The discovery kit contains 2ml x 16 is 80 Euros and which is approximately $87.00)  -Michelyn

malbrum  perfumes

Kristian Malbrum (he's taken)

Malbrum: Fine fragrance from Norway? Yes indeed.  Malbrum had a lot of buzz at Esxence. I confess that owner B. Kristian Hilberg looked like a modern day version of the Norse god Thor (happily married with children, just saying, I might have had jet lag but am not blind). Kristian’s first name is Bjorn after his great grandfather, a tailor, who lived in Bayridge Brooklyn before returning to outfit Norwegian royalty. I am not sure that Malbrum is really his last name; he mentioned that he called the House this name because it roughly translates into “bad mist”.   There are three fragrances to date, all composed by the much lauded French independent perfumer Delphine Thierry  who has created  both designer and niche fragrances for Trussardi,  Guerlain, L’Occitane, Moschino,  Etro, Lubin, Chantelle, Masque Milano, Majda Makkali and Cloon Keen Atelier.   I was surprised at Kristian’s knowledge of naturals and synthetics as he showed me absolues from Firmenich and Robertet (I spotted them behind the booth).   He is more than a creative director and is a collaborator who knows what he wants within the composition.  The first edition is comprised of three perfumes:  Shameless Seducer, Psychotrope and Tigre de Bengale and are available in extrait de parfum concentration, housed in 30ml bottles with a retro bulb atomiser, although the bottle is far from retro.  It looks and feels very modern.  Tigre de Bengale’s slinky blend of tobacco, myrrh and patchouli with a lighter top of juniper and cardamom was the stand out in the range and Kristian kindly allowed me to smell the tobacco absolue (which has an exquisite caramelized quality). At approximately $158.00 I would buy Tigre de Bengale in a heartbeat.  I had a sneak sniff of the three fragrances in the second edition which will be launched later this year, inspired by Kristian's vision of a man and a woman in paradise; quite different using  tropical accords. The bottle labeled #3 has an interesting back-story; Delphine Thierry misinterpreted the brief and created a scent that evoked making love, the scents of sex without smelling like Secretions Magnifique -Michelyn

miya Shinma perfumes

 Miya Shinma

Miya Shinma:  Miya Shinma is an eponymous Japanese-Franco centered range with a gracious poetic air.  The bottles feature the beautiful art of calligraphy and overall there is a gentle aesthetic across the whole line.  Although this collection is not new, it’s the first time that Miya has been to a show such as Esxence and she told me how nervous she was at putting her creations out for everyone to see, however she was very pleased with the response. Miya is classically trained in Paris at Cinquième Sens and her fragrances summon the elements with names like Hana, Tsuki (moon), Kaze (wind) and Yuki (snow).

miya shinma tsuki moon perfume

New fragrance Tsubaki has a stronger personality than others in the line and is described as a modern Fougere although if you like Rose Anonyme from Atelier Cologne you may feel drawn to this.  Tsuki (moon) is another that stood out for me; it’s a romantic fragrance with an interesting accord of bamboo and raspberry and is her signature.  Michelyn liked Hinoki (named for the wood) and Sakura (cherry blossom).   The booth display was lovely and Miya very modest about her talent; she also has written four books on perfume –Megan

room  1025 perfume cafleurebon

Room 1015 and Michael Partouche

Room 1015 is a new brand from Michael Partouche – a rock musician with a pharmacy background. These are his rock n roll perfumes. In the line are Electric Wood, Atramental and Blomma Cult. Of the three I liked Blomma Cult, the more feminine fragrance in the range. It charms with its light violet, vanilla and musk tones. The perfumers behind the brand are Amélie Bourgeois and Anne-Sophie Behaghel. -Megan

map of the heart  clear heart black heart and red heart

Map of the Heart is an Australian perfume house founded in 2014 by Sarah Blair and Jeffrey Darling who work in the film industry but was new to us.  There are three original perfumes in the collection –  V1 Clear Heart,  V3Red Heart,  V2 Black Heart and now Gold Heart the new addition.

map of the heart jaques huclier and pierre dinand

If you’re a lover of dark intense perfumes, deep and rich with spices, then Black Heart will be something you should try. It was near an out of body experience.  They have really pushed the boat out on this one and only bold explorers need apply. The bottles are shaped as a real heart and are coloured as they are named.  They’re created by legendary designer Pierre Dinand and mould to the hand in quite a wonderful way.   Jaques Huclier is the perfumer.-Megan

UerMi perfume Italian

UERMI  Profumi

UERMI is an Italian perfumery that melds fabric and fragrance…UERMI –wear me.  How often do we reach for a perfume based on what we are wearing from denim to cashmere.  Ve velvet, No Suede, AB Cashmere, XXX Latex,  Oh Denim, Do Washi,  We Tweed and UR Silk.   Jean Jacques, Philippe Bousseton,   and Antoine Lie of Takasago are the noses.  UR Silk by Jean Jaques was my personal favorite with its luscious laconic fig and gilded iris that I wanted to bathe in, so soft and sensuous. –Michelyn

The show was closing when I by chance stopped by what may have been the most interesting lines of the show, Rubini. My cell phone had died and there was no one at the booth.  I had brought 10 empty sprayers and all had been used. FRUSTRATED but undaunted, I ventured on.. Rubini is an Old Italian House resurrected for a modern audience by one of the descendants. As I look at my notes, I have written down fiberglass and Fundamental, the name of the fragrance that really captivated me. I asked around later that evening and the perfumers are Ermano Picco and Cristiano  Canali who are facebook friends, so they will be hearing from me soon. On the plane I reached for my scent blotter and the most heavenly citrus and sandalwood still wafted from the mouillette 18 hrs later. To be continued. –Michelyn

Megan, Sr Contributor and Michelyn Camen Editor in Chief

(Later this week will be our wrap-up and Best of Show).

   nishane istanbul perfume discovery set

Thanks to the generosity of Nishane istanbul we have a discovery kit of 2ml  x 16  for any reader in the world.  To be eligible please leave a comment with which new discoveries  tempted you. Draw ends April 3, 2015

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

                                                

 

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45 comments

  • Great Job Ladies! Ha I had to snicker on several comments (not blind) 😉 and only bold explorers need apply. Thanks for the introduction to these new additions. I look forward to part 3. I would love to experience the Discovery kit from Nishane! What a generous draw. Look forward to reviews on each of these new discoveries. I am in the US

  • Lillian Holloway says:

    I just saw someone’s pictures ( 35 in all) of all the different booths and perfumers ftom the exhibit. Miya Shinma caught my eye, sadly not sold in the US yet. Map of the Heart had the heart bottles…very interesting. But, as cool as the pics were, there were no samples to accompany them. So sad. I am in the US.

  • Hi Michelyn, awesome reviews. How exciting to be there. Love learning of all these new fragrances your reviewing. Malbrum fragrances do sound quite intriguing, esp. the Tigre de Bengale. You had me captured at Rubini. I hope you get a chance to go back to the presentation and checking it out (for me :-). Fabric and fragrance could be an interesting varieties of smells. I am definately taken by Nishane. The entire line seems to be unique and the fragrance note in some you have mentioned seem out of the norm. I’m liking. Look forward to more. Enjoy enjoy enjoy! In the USA.

  • Loved the reviews. I am so curious about all of them. The Nishane line sounds different and interesting. Tigre de Bengale sounds like a must have with the owner or without him 😉 and Fundamental like a must try.

    Thank you for the draw! I am in US.

  • Thanks for reporting on these lesser known brands. It’s always interesting to discover hidden gems. I must say, the name Shameless Seducer caught my attention straight away. A little vulgar perhaps but that’s never a bad thing. 🙂

    I’m in Canada. Thanks for the draw!

  • Tsuki (for the raspberry note) and 4 Passion Choco (a summer fruitchouli? sign me up!) are very tempting. I’m in the USA, thank you for the draw!

  • Yay ! Other great brands to discover?!
    Nishane and Room 1015 are already on my test-list!! + Tigre de Bengale by Malbrum.
    Thanks for these great and very useful reviews, Michelyn! And for the draw! I’m in The EU.

  • Marcopietro says:

    Nishane Istanbul with its name so evocative and a simple, poetry packaging is a beautiful new. I looked at their website and I found many delicious things. I could not decide where to start the discovery of them.
    My wallet is already crying!
    Thanks for your engaging reportage and the draw!
    I’m in The EU.

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    Nishane is really the first Turkish perfume brand I have heard of..I have heard one cna find lot of attars in Turkish bazaars and they are often focused on flowers like rose and not just oud and spices..I was reading about Tigre du Bengal the other day and I thought from the website it is Italian brand so this article corrects me it is Norwegian actually..one cannot help but notice how Italian brands are becoming dominant player in niche category which is quite unlike the yesteryears when French basically dominated the fragrance art…yes, there were Italian, German and English brands centuries ago but they could be counted on fingers..
    this is really exciting event and I hope one day I will visit it, just as an enthusiast rather than industry insider or professional..thanks so much for the generous Nishane draw. I am in the US

  • Nishane istanbul – 16 Afrika Olifant…a weird and suggestive name for a perfume, that for it’s ingredients I’m sure I will love… and that one of these days I’m sure I’ll gonna have it…

  • It is a very lovely review. I really enjoy to reading it. A lot of fantastic perfume, these are very tempted me. All of them. For example the Turkish perfumes sounds very interesting and that heart shaped black bottle is looks very interesting. I live in Europe.

  • These all sound so interesting! Most intrigued by the description of Tigre de Bengale.
    I am in the U.S, and thank you for the generous draw!

  • Thank you again for a great report from Exsence, it’s wonderful to be able to read up on the happenings from such expert eye- and nose-witnesses. Definitely the three Nishane Istanbul sounded great, as I always like dark and oriental fragrances, and anything with a good coffee note will definitely have my attention.
    The Malbrums sounded very delicious, as I am sure is the Mr himself 😉
    Thanks CFB and Nishane for the draw.

  • Valentine girl says:

    I feel like I just went around the world in 80 sniffs after reading this post–Norway, Australia, Japan, Turkey…so many new, talented perfumers and perfume houses to explore. I can’t wait to try Tigre de Bengale & Black Heart. Love the bottle design too – it shows amazing attention to detail when a perfumer, not only creates a fragrance that suits your skin, but the bottle fits your hand as well. I am also excited to explore the Room 1015 line- rock musician with pharmaceutical training…sounds intriguing.

    Finally, I am really looking forward to the new fragrances from the Turkish house, Nishane Istanbul. I love the concept of each fragrance representing a place, an ingredient, a continent, a country, and a time in history. The watercolor cards that accompany each one look absolutely exquisite. Would love to try the sampler set. Wow, one could have a lot of fun experimenting and layering with 16 choices to determine a favorite..or two..or three..thank you for the post and draw opportunity. USA resident.

  • Well, to start of I would love to have a private perfume session with Kristian Malbrum. The Turkish Nisane fragrances sound great. Afrika Olifant sounds very nice. I live in EU. Thanks for the draw!

  • Black Heart sounds wonderful, and I would really like to hear more about Fundamental. Japanese perfumes tend to wear too sheer on me, but Hinoki sounds interesting.
    Loving your reports from Milan!

  • what a great esxence report … I have read a few but this is much more detailed. Traveling the world through perfume, Turkey Australia, Norway, Italy and Japan. I think that Nishane Istanbul sounds like a fantastic line and I love the postcards too! Very impressed with Mr Malbrum as well.
    I hope you can get more Infos on Rubini

  • MikasMinion says:

    Going to keep my eye out for the Malbrum that smells of sex, sounds really interesting. I am also a Hinoki lover so am curious about the Maya Shinma line. If it is meant for the Japanese market there are probably some really great office appropriate scents there. I’m in the US.

  • nishane istabul’s #8 (vetiver) & #16 sound fantastic. malbrum’s tigre de bengale & shameless seducer piqued my interest. map of the heart’s V2 (black heart) sounds right up my alley. thank you for your reviews & for the opportunity to win nishane istanbul’s discovery set.

  • These are all new ot me. I’m tempted by Black Heart because I can use an out of body experience. USA

  • I am really drawn to the Miya Shinma line, but everything looks so appealing really. Thanks for the draw, I’m in the US.

  • Hinoki was the one I was drawn too but honestly, they all sound beautiful. Thank you for this generous draw. I am in the US

  • Oh what a genourous draw – how can I not say Munego 7 when its described as ” growls like a panther”. So many sound amazing but that calls to me. Im in the UK 🙂

  • I want to try Miya’s work and read her books too- exciting.Tsuki (moon)and its romantic element sounds wonderful and Hinoki and Sakura- Michelyn’s choices will suit me fine :). generous draw to give to the world, many thanks. I am international

  • I have never heard of any of these houses, which is quite exciting! I visited Istanbul once, and the idea of a house based in such a magical city is intriguing. I am in the US, thank you.

  • Nishan Istanbul sounds interesting. Turkey is such a beautiful and fascinating country; they must find plenty of inspiration there. The 4 Passion Choco sounds especially nice. I am in the US. Thanks for reporting back to those of us who aren’t fortunate enough to attend!

  • Tigre de Bengale and Black Heart both have my full attention! I will be keeping an eye out for these.

    Thanks again for the news from Exsence!

  • thegoddessrena says:

    16 Afika Oliphant, Black Heart, Tsuki and Fundamental all sound interesting to me. I am in the US

  • The one that caught my eye (by the name) and imagination was 16 Afrika Olifant. The Nishan Istanbul line in general has piqued my interest.

    Thanks for the draw. I am in the US.

  • I would like to try Sakura because spring is arriving and it appeals to me! I,m in EU.

  • Roseinrose says:

    Lovely review made me want to be there and experience all new creations. The Nishane perfumes sounds really interesting and very promising but Tigre de Bengale got my attention for sure!
    I am in EU.

  • I always love reading about these adventures at the shows. I so wish I was walking about and getting to sniff and explore. Wow, must be something! I think I’m most intrigued by Munegu 7 and 16 Afrika Olifant. Also, Rubini is getting my attention, especially since it left me with wanting more……so looking forward to hearing more about that line in the future. I’m in the US. thank you for staying on your feet and for plugging through right on until closing!

  • If there is a country in this world, that fascinates me most about its mysterious religion, customs, nature and people, it should be Japan. That’s why when I read about Miya Shinma, I was all ears…and eyes, and nose 🙂
    Thank you for the draw!
    I am in Bulgaria (EU).

  • Cynthia Richardson says:

    A rock musician with a pharmacy background? Room 1015 appeals to me. Also, since I love Rose Anonyme from Atelier Cologne I would be tempted by Miya Shinma Tsubaki.

  • An Istanbul inspired house sounds like a dream. I’d especially like to try 7 Munegu and 16 Afrika Olifant. Thanks for the draw!

  • new brands are fun to discover and I am excited by Nishane particularly as I would love to see how they interpreted the various aspects of Istanbul culture.
    Also Map of the Heart and Malbrum are exciting too
    I would love to win the discovery kit
    XxKaryn

  • Loved all the reviews, and also the bit about stopping and chatting with a Thor-lookalike who knows a great deal about naturals and synthetics. Especially that bit.

    Many of these fragrances intrigue me!
    “16 Afrika Olifant will most likely appeal to CaFleureBon readers who like their fragrances anamalic and smoky; frankincense, castoruem, civet, leather, oud and musc are right in your face.”–yup, definitely appeals. The Nishane line sounds interesting and I like the watercolors.

    Also: “Tigre de Bengale’s slinky blend of tobacco, myrrh and patchouli with a lighter top of juniper and cardamom was the stand out in the range and Kristian kindly invited me to smell the tobacco absolue (which has an exquisite caramelized quality).”
    You were living the dream, my friend! I love cardamom, but wow, tobacco would have been my new favorite note.

    And this one seems written for me: “If you’re a lover of dark intense perfumes, deep and rich with spices, then Black Heart will be something you should try. It was near an out of body experience. They have really pushed the boat out on this one and only bold explorers need apply. The bottles are shaped as a real heart and are coloured as they are named. ” The bottles alone! But yes, this one has captured my heart.

    USA Thanks for the reviews and draw!

  • Tsubaki sounds brilliant! I’m also enjoying how Map Of The Heart house sounds. I’m really looking forward to testing these scents! I’m in Canada 😀

  • I would love to try UERMI from Italy. It is great idea to create scents that depend on we are wearing. I love it! Thanks. Greetings from Europe.

  • Black Heart is perfectttt!! Dark incense wow that is going to be in my collection soon for sure!

    I’m in Canada