Before I begin my chronicles of Day 2 at Esxence- The Scent of Excellence 2011 I have to mention last night. Clive Christian invited me to a black tie event at the Hotel Principe di Savoia. This was a celebration of the launch of C for Women and C for Men. Clive Christian and his daughter Victoria were both in attendance. After some opening words by Clive Christian, Victoria Christian took over and introduced both fragrances to those assembled. Because I was fortunate enough to have seen this done at last fall's Sniffapalooza Fall Ball I knew what was coming. Upon Victoria's request we closed our eyes and raised our noses. Through the use of folding fans they would spray and fan the fragrance out over the crowd. For the second time I have seen what a lovely way this is to experience a fragrance. From the moment you get the first indication you almost lean forward to catch your next breath, It has the effect of displayiing fragrance in a much more expansive way than just on a blotter.

After the demonstration I found my assigned table and was very happy to find Victoria to be the head of our table. She showed the same effortless elegance, that was on display during the demonstation, in keeping the conversation moving around our table. My thanks to all at Clive Christian for the invitation.  

 

Now on to today's schedule.

 

10:30– This is the first time I've been able to write this morning. First up for me was to chair the roundtable on Artistic Perfumery in the US. Big topic that we only covered a small part of. The part we did cover was well communicated by my panel. We had reps of Intertrade, Clive Christian, Robert Piguet and Keiko Mecheri all give distinctive visions of how niche fragrances find their place in the US market. Cathy of Colonial Drug in Cambridge, MA spoke passionately and honestly about what she needs as a small shop owner in the way of support from the brands……free samples and testers come first. Michael Edwards was left to sum it all up and let the past be our guide to the future. We ran over by 30 minutes but it seemed like it went by in a flash.

 

 

12:30– Just finished my session at the Osmotheque guided by Patricia de Nicolai. While we all know her as perfumer she is quite active as archivist for our fragrant history. She guided me through some of her favorite historical fragrances. I started with Iris Gris by Jacques Fath from 1947. This is an iris like I have never encountered rich and opulent without a hint of the chilliness usually exuded by iris. Coty Rose Jacqueminot form 1904 was next. Mme de Nicolai told me the story of Francois Coty being rejected by the store owner and walking out to the street to hurl his bottle to the ground in disgust. Women passing by the shop kept coming in asking for that divine frgrance they smelled outside. 107 years later I sympathize with those women as it is something I can't ever get myself. Thankfully the Osmotheque is here to make sure it doesn't disappear forever. I tried the forerunner to Eau de Cologne which was the rosemary infusion called Eau de La Reine Hongrie. The first vetiver, Carven Vetiver from 1954 and finally Parfum Royale which is made with a wine base. Those of you who have smelled mulled wine know what Parfum Royale smells like.

 

 

14:30– Just got back from checking out three new lines. Carner Barcelona has two fragrances Tardes and D600, Tardes is nice but D600 has a cardamom, iris, and jasmine heart that is incredible on my skin. Those of you who are in Europe this is a line well worth seeking out.

Mark Buxton has a new fragrance for Cale' Fragranze D'Autore called Roboris (roughly translated Forceful Oak) in conjunction with Cale' owner Silvio Levi, Mr. Buxton was meant to create something to evoke a shaman summoning a rainstorm on top of a mountain in the American Southwest. Roboris carries a feeeling of forces gathering as it starts with violet and rhubabrb down to sandalwood tonka, and ambergris. Wild and wonderful.

At dinner last night, Michael Edwards told me the most unique thing he had seen was a line called Blood Concept. When Michael Edwards says that that means I have to take a look. The concept at a glance looked like fragrance for vampire wannabes but after experiencing the four fragrances, A, B,AB, and O these are meant for something more. The idea is for each Blood Type to represent a different phase of the development of Man. A represents the animalic and it is full of musk and leather. B represents the agrarian phase and is green and grassy, AB represents the growing industrialization leading finally to O which is the urban version. All of them end with a bit of metallic tang to evoke blood but everything before that is completely fascinating. Lesson learned ….listen to Michael Edwards.

– Mark Behnke, Managing Editor