CaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery: Mik of MIKMOI San Francisco + Dreams of Travel Perfumes (INTL) Draw

 MMStudioJapantown

 *Image: Mik in his San Francisco Studio in Japantown

Profile: I was born a shy country mouse of Russian and Irish origin in upstate New York. I spent much of my youth exploring the natural world in the lush forests and fields where I grew up.

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*Image: Elfquest Comic cover

To entertain myself, I created a rich dream world based on comic books and graphic novels. I counted a number of elves and superheroes as some of my closest friends right up until high school.

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*Image: Young Mik at 4 years old

The introduction to foreign language classes inspired dreams of travel. Until my first trip abroad, that dream came in the form of a bottle of Coco by Chanel. At the time, I didn’t see why a young guy couldn’t wear such a glamorous French fragrance but alas, I was not in the mainstream, not then or now. That bottle became an artifact of my adolescence and one I managed to hold onto and keep a secret for close to a decade.  San Francisco is a city that represents diversity and tolerance. Upon moving here I supplemented the bottle of Chanel with a custom blend of amber and spiced oils and immersed myself in the city’s variety of subcultures and creative movements. I began a unique career in a field that brings together diverse backgrounds to leverage multicultural perspectives and foster innovation. Several years into my work I was drawn to London for graduate school to further my studies.

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 *Image: Former Spice Warehouses along the Shad Thames, London

 London is a global crossroads where I would encounter even more examples of diversity and cultural reference. I landed in a Shad Thames neighborhood flat surrounded by former warehouses from the ancient spice trade. Cardamom Building, Tamarind Court and Cinnamon Wharf were my neighbors; Vanilla and Sesame Courts were just around the corner. Following a metaphoric path I moved from London to Asia to write my thesis and explore the spice trade route firsthand. I eventually called Bangkok and Hong Kong home, learning their secrets and celebrating their rich traditions. It is from these travels I created some of my initial handmade fragrances.

 From travel and shared experiences I have come to appreciate origins and dreams as the foundation of my inspiration. Aromatics, much like people, all have a source – a geographic reference to a time and a place. Variations and combinations of these ingredients and perspectives are my inspiration which convey a dream, transport and inspire.

mik at second artisan fragrance salon in san francisco

* Image Mik at the 2nd Artisan Fragrance Salon

 On American Perfumery:  As an American perfumer I appreciate the artistic freedom and a spirit of inclusion. The name of my brand is a combination of my nickname Mik and the French word ‘moi’ (pronounced ‘muah’), meaning ‘me’. MIKMOI represents individuality and promotes the permission to be different and unique. I have seen the transformative power that a broader perspective and individual expression have, both in myself and in others. I relish the freedom to role model those values. My work is rooted in themes that challenge stereotypes, conventions and perspectives, as well as, an emphasis on natural and authentic ingredients that are culturally significant and the finest in the world.  When I made the connection to fragrance, the invisible companion who has been with me across dreams and journeys, my decision to become a perfumer and entrepreneur was as logical as taking my next breath. I found the perfect art form to convey my stories and to inspire others to reach their dreams and possibilities.

mik with mandy aftel

*Image Natural Perfumer Mandy Aftel and Mik

Here on the West Coast, I appreciate the sense of community that exists among perfumers. There is room for all styles and expressions. I have been fortunate to find the best teachers in the world here. I have studied the art of natural perfumery with Mandy Aftel and the energy of Aromascapes with Yosh Han. In late March I launched my line at the San Francisco Artisanal Fragrance salon. The experience and reception I have received have been incredible. I will be at the Seattle Artisan Fragrance Salon on May the 5th and at FRAG-ments, a new event  (organized by Maggie Mahboubian)  in Los Angeles, on June the 22nd.

 

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*Image: Karhu San Francisco

Favorite American ArtistMy favorite American artist is Clifton Karhu (1927-2007). Karhu was an expat in Japan, first a soldier, then a missionary who rediscovered his passion for art which eventually led him to a post as head of the Kyoto branch of the Japan Print Society. Once he embraced his passion and found his peace in Japan he transcended cultural barriers and stereotypes to reach amazing heights.

KarhuCliftonClothDrying

 *Image: Karhu ClothDrying

 Karhu was known for a modern use of illumination and color in the traditional medium of woodblock printing. His work reminds me of colorful elements of the reading material of my youth, the hues of essential oils and light traveling through glass. His subject matter inspires me to more journeys and moments I feel I have yet to take, experience and share.

  –Michael “Mik” Coyle, Founder and Perfumer of MIKMOI San Francisco

Editor’s Note: Mik is tri-lingual- English, French and Japanese as you will see by visiting his website

Read Sr. Editor Tama Blough’s review of the line here

*images property of MIKMOI

Thanks to Mik we have an international draw for 50 ml of a reader’s choice Aldwych, Ao, Vesper or Itoh. To be eligible please leave a comment noting what you found fascinating about Mik and the fragrance you would like to win. Draw ends May 2, 2013

Please like CaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery and your entry will count  twice.

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize wil be just spilled perfume

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58 comments

  • Reading more about Mik has been a real pleasure. He is both and fine artist and a true gentleman. I love his perfume, most especially Vesper.

  • As russian and I’m pleased to know about Mik’s russian origin, he have very interesting backgroud and this is wonderful for creation!
    I would like to win ITOH, I loved it’s description 😉

  • How very interesting that Coco is the perfume that fit him in his adolescence. Mik seems a very well-spoken man. I am most interested in Vesper.

  • The discussion of his tenure in the spice warehouse neighborhood of London was a reminder of the incredible diversity of one of my favorite cities in the world. (I live in the U.S., but also lived in London for about a year and a half.) When I saw that he has a fragrance named Vesper–a very favorite cocktail of mine; it’s the color of a beautiful, icy canary diamond–I salivated just a little. If I were so lucky, I’d love my own bottle of Vesper! Thanks for the draw, everyone and Mik!

  • I love that he loves Clifton Karhu, and that he speaks Japanese. Interesting that he doesn’t mention living in Japan… Vesper is the one I’d like to win. Thanks for the draw.

  • This line has really been calling to me for some reason. I love the international inspiration and especially reading about his time in London and how the spice trade came to influence his fragrances. I’d like to enter for Ao. Thanks for the draw!

  • I’ve never heard of Karhu before, but now I’m searching for images online. Love those vivid colors! I think I would choose Aldwych because I don’t get to sniff many carnation perfumes.

  • This discussion of Mik hit me on many deep levels. I was raised with forests surrounding me, and draw inspiration from their sweet smell. My third big perfume crush was coco, which I wore exclusively for a year. “Muah” as he phoneticizes it, can sound like “kiss” instead of “me” en francaise. Vespers speaks to the part of me that is engaged with ritual and religion, although my conscience has led me away from the organized. Arrigato domo, because I bought a big old bottle of Coco duty free at Narita Airport once, Laura

  • Janet in California says:

    My first adult perfume was also Chanel Coco. I’m sure i wore me during high school. Mik I hope that elves are still your friends. A perfume that smelled like elves sounds lovely!

    Ao is my pick. Thanks!

  • Love that Coco was Mik’s first fragrance love. What a great choice. It is still one of my favorites.
    I would pick Ito because I love woody fragrances.

  • Being tri-lingual is fascinating to me, a one language person.

    I’d love to win the bottle of Ao.

    Thanks guys.

  • Loved reading about Mik’s interest in Japanese culture. I would like to try all of them. Vespers interests me most. Thanks.

  • I enjoyed learning about the Brand name, the combination of his nickname Mik and the French word ‘moi’ meaning ‘me’. I would choose Itoh. I loved reading this, Mik feels really special as of course we all are! 🙂

  • The picture of four year old Mik combined with his childhood love of elves and fairies conjures up a pleasant picture of a mischievous wood sprite exploring those fields and forests in upstate NY. Lovely 🙂 Vesper is my choice.

  • Mik’s allusions to scent as a sort of medium of travel through time and space are at once fantastic and practical. Green Aldwych is my choice.

  • I really enjoyed the way he went to the source, traveled the world to experience it.

    nice to hear as i graduate from college.

    Aldwych would be the one. 🙂

  • Seems interesting that he was born half russian / half irish and yet its not listed that he knows russian. Is it because he is already native in it or that he never studied it? Anyways, very clever with the brand name “mikmoi” and the background for it. Individuality in perfume and fragrance is something that each person is unique for and I can relate to that. VESPER seems like it would be my favorite but would love to try them all as well.

  • i think this the loveliest thing: this childhood roaming the forests dreaming of elves… 🙂

    and it would have to be vesper for me.

  • marcopietro says:

    What a really nice interview! Mik is very charming and I find interesting the origin of the name of the brand and the implicit approaches to others (cultures, people, etc.)
    I’d like to win a bottle of Aldwich,
    …among other things, I think the bottles are really beautiful.

  • I can very much relate to this part: “My work is rooted in themes that challenge stereotypes, conventions and perspectives, as well as, an emphasis on natural and authentic ingredients that are culturally significant and the finest in the world.”

    I would love to try Vesper.

  • Joshua Ang says:

    I think the most interesting thing about Mik is his love for traveling: from his childhood of wandering in the forests dreaming of elves to the fact that he has lived all over the world and is trilingual. These aspects have surely translated into his perfumes. I’d love to win a bottle of Vesper.

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    i admire anyone who appreciates cultural diversity and Mik seems to do so. in addition, nothing substitutes travelling as a source of learning about cultures.

    my preference would be Vesper

  • What fascinated me the most is how much his life parallels mine…he grew up where I reside now, speaks three languages (as I once did) adored the original Coco (one of the very best of the Chanels as far as I am concerned) and has studied with Mandy (my idol….read Essence and Alchemy more than half a dozen times). I want all bottles from this line but since I must choose one it would be Ao.

    thank you for this wonderful draw.

  • What I like about Mik is that he speaks three languages, he has been living in different places…..so he seems to be an open minded person and a smart child when he was younger as he liked Coco!
    I would like Aldwich. Thanks!!

  • Mik is a very interesting person, such a diverse
    cultural background…I also like the work of
    Clifton Karhu. I am going to wear Coco today
    thinking about how precious it was to Mik in
    his youth. My pick would be Vesper.
    Thanks for the draw!

  • Thank you for the profile, reviews, and draw!
    I loved reading about the American artist, Clifton Karhu. His stuff is awesome.
    I also liked hearing about living in a neighborhood of spices in London, and not feeling bound to gender conventions in wearing scent–you are not alone in this Mik! Change is slow.

    My favorite part though was the view of aromatics as rooted in a time and place, as materials to tell a story rooted in places in the world on one side and in dreams on the other. Fragrance is like a story- bridge into imaginative possibility.

    liked on FB
    Vesper and Itoh both sound exactly like my cup of tea…would choose Vesper.

  • just breathe says:

    As a person who hasn’t traveled much I loved hearing about his world experiences and ability to speak three languages! I would like to try Itoh. thanks for the draw!

  • Interesting article of an interesting guy. I had never heard of Karhu, will now investigate his work. I enjoyed reading i=of his experiences, and checking out his site. I would love to try Itoh. thanks for the draw.

  • What a cute photo of Mik as a kid! I can completely relate to having elves for friends and spending time roaming the countryside as a child. I also have a love of languages and find Japanese language and culture quite fascinating. I would love to try all of the line but I think Vesper would be my top choice.

  • I like the diverse cultural background, much to draw on creatively.

    I’d like to win Vesper

  • wefadetogray says:

    I find fascinating Mik’s connection with multiculturalism and his commitment to diversity not only as a life ethos but also as an olfactory experience which he embeds on his perfumes. I would love to try Itoh, Ao, or Vesper.
    Thanks for the draw

  • Mik as a toddler, OMG, adorbs! I found it interesting he fell so hard for coco and that it made such a secret strong impression on him. I also love the sound of Ao — would love to try! Thanks for the draw.

  • Anna in Edinburgh says:

    I’d never heard of “Shad Thames” before so a quick bit of internet research enlightened me; how fantastic, to live where costly spices were traded so long ago and then to travel the Spice Trade Routes. The ways in which perfume articles prompt me to look into other areas is delightful, and what a fascinating life Mik’s enjoyed!

    All of the perfumes are intriguing but I’d love to experience what Mik does with frankincense and myrrh in “Vesper”.

  • I find the combination of his eastern and western influences most interesting. I would love to have Itoh.

  • I was so moved by Mik’s early fascination with Coco. I also love to hear about the connectedness between perfumers. It is a small universe. I would love to try ‘Vespers’, as it sounds so wonderfully unique.

  • susie frankel says:

    Mik is universal…imaginary or real…he get’s it! Reading about the Life of Mik and his travels…good for him. I’d go for Atoh. Or any other scent he creates.

  • Growing up in New York City, I thought the whole world was multicultural and didn’t realize until I was older how lucky I was. Reading Mik’s journey from upstate wilderness comic fan to international urban artiste upstart was a glimpse into how the glory of the world can expand if you allow yourself to be drawn out of the cozy shell of home.

    Now that I know the origin and how to say MIKMOI, maybe we can learn how Mik intends us to pronounce “Ao”, my choice for the draw.

  • I am jealous of his travelling and living in all those countries, they are my choices as well!! I loved vesper from the description I hope I get a chance to try it as well as the others. I recently moved to London and will be visiting this part of town soon!!

  • Mary Carol says:

    I found it interesting that perfumers living on the West Coast have a sense of community. Styles may be different, but everyone appreciates the other person’s expression. My choice would be Ao. Thank you for the drawing!

  • I so enjoyed learning about this man. His involvement with comics, and love of wandering the forest are very dear to me. These are activities that I relish. Also, I was very grateful to be introduced to Clifton Karhu, those images are fantastic. Thank you for this draw, I’d like to win Vesper, and I live in the U.S.

  • So well travelled! I know the part of London that he mentions, and I would love to get a read of his thesis! Spice and travel, is there anything more exciting in this world? I would love to try Itoh with it’s pink lotus and our. Sounds great!

  • GregorySop says:

    Though I am not surprised that he likes art, i was interested to see his favorite to be imo a relatively obscure artist in Karhu. Thanks for the draw.

  • Good lord, what an evocative post! I feel as if I’ve traveled thousands of miles, with the most lovely people, landscapes, art and scents. I love carnations, so I think I’d adore Aldwych.

  • The article was fascinating! I enjoyed reading about Mik’s travel and inspiration. I live in the US and Vesper is my choice. Thanks for the draw! 🙂

  • I love that his first fragrance love was Chanel’s Coco. Sad, however, that he felt the need to keep his love for it a secret. Gender marketing can unfortunately be taken so seriously.

    Lovely to see him incorporating his knowledge of the Asian spice route into his own perfumery.

    If I was lucky enough to win, I’d love a bottle of Vesper.

    Thanks for the draw!

  • I did not know there were such places as Cardamom Building, Tamarind Court, Cinnamon Wharf, Vanilla and Sesame Courts in London or anywhere else, How wonderful to read these names everyday as you walk by. Mik’s travels were fed by dreams: I like it so! I will have to choose between Ao and Itoh if I ever win this draw, what a beautiful dilemma!

  • Perfume Don says:

    Like Isayah above mentioned, I had no idea places like the cardomaom, cinnamon, and vanilla courts existed. What an interesting mark of a bygone era.

    I live in the USA. Itoh would be my choice. Lovely notes.

  • I LOVE that Mik began his journey of self-discovery as a visual artist-it seems lots of perfumers do! Thank you for the draw op, and I’d most enjoy a bottle of Vesper.

  • Victoria Casey says:

    I found his unique cultural background interesting. I’m sure that it gave him a wide variety of things to draw from creatively. My choice would be Itoh.

  • I really enjoyed hearing how Mik traveled the world for scent. It reminds me of the ScentTrek expeditions by Givaudan. I love that kind of stuff.

    Aldwych please. 🙂 Thanks for the draw.

  • I like his vision of what aromatics should convey. “Variations and combinations of these ingredients and perspectives are my inspiration which convey a dream, transport and inspire.” For me, its about dreams and transporting me to different spaces in time. 🙂

    My choice will be Itoh! 🙂

  • I would like Ao. I completely agree with Mik that SF is the place for all styles and expressions. I love that city very much.

  • I love the way Mik integrated travel and perfume. I would be happy with any scent but ITO sounds great.

  • I always wonder what it would be like to be in the league of perfumers. if it’s a secret society, if friendships exist, rivalries, etc.

    I liked his points about the American perfume scene and the way west-coast perfumers have a community. Very interesting.

    Vesper is my choice.

  • Great article! I really connected with Mik’s love of travel. i traveled across Europe in my 20s. It was GREAT!

    I would choose Vesper, sounds wonderful. Thanks for the draw.

  • I love the story about young Mik’s bottle of Chanel No.5. 🙂 I also liked the artwork by Karhu featured in the article.

    I would like to win Ao! ( l live in the US).