ÇaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery: Anne Nelson Sanford of LURK + Androgynous By Design

Anne Nelson Sanford artist shot

Anne Nelson Sanford of LURK

Profile: I was born in Chicago in 1973 and I am the youngest of 3 girls. When I was 4 we moved to Miami, FL and most of my early memories begin there. I still to this day find Miami to be a completely magical place. The climate, the energy, the ocean, the international vibe and the intensely fragrant side of living in such a lush, sub-tropical environment. Living there set the stage for my lifelong love of nature. 

Anne Nelson Sanford Childhood

Anne with her Mom

In the early 80’s my obsession with perfume began to develop.. The fragrances of the eighties were so intense and I was absolutely transfixed by the extreme nature of them, both linear and non-linear: Dior Poison, Giorgio Beverly Hills, Paloma Picasso (my first perfume) a complex aldehyde that has a lot of woody and masculine notes.

paloma picasso  mon parfum vintage perfume ads

More than any other scent Paloma Picasso really started something within me.  I can remember, like it was yesterday, finding the small sample of this perfume scattered among my mothers fragrances and beauty products when I was 11 years old. I had always loved to explore the bottles and jars she had in her bathroom and on that day that small vial caught my eye as it was new, something that wasn’t there the last time I had rummaged her things. I honestly wasn’t expecting much when I opened it, as I never really liked the fragrances she wore. They were beautiful, but not my thing and looking back they were so quintessentially 80ʼs, loud and expansive.. (Which now I find amazing and nostalgic).. Until that day I figured perfume just wasn’t for me. Most of the scents I had experienced were very floral, heavy and uber feminine. So I was more trying to figure it out, to somehow understand why people wore it. I was also a little mystified by it, how it became more than an accessory, and truly a part of a person.

How when I smelled certain fragrances they would immediately remind me of people, places, things, experiences etc.. But when I opened that sample I was riveted.. Literally. The scent was something that I immediately loved. It kind of confused me and drew me in at the same time.. and I couldn’t get enough. It was dark and different, a bit masculine, intense and all over the place & I didn’t know it could be like that.. From that moment on I loved fragrance and it started a journey for me to seek out that experience over and over and to find scents that were more androgynous, more mysterious and edgy so to speak.

Anne Nelson Sanford

Anne blending

To this day I am still influenced and inspired by that experience and when I am creating fragrance I am, in a way, trying to re-create that moment for myself and hopefully others. I want to create a product that can provide a provocative, intense and surprising experience.. I think more than anything else that scent and the memory of it drives me to stay outside of the box and to push boundaries.. It definitely planted the seed that led me to perfumery.. I also think it still suits me which I love; a bit confusing, androgynous, all over the place, creative and maybe a little misunderstood.. And that makes me laugh.. I have so much gratitude for the artists that move, inspire and drive the rest of us to try and put something out there! Scent is an integral part of our history, our psyche, our soul and to be able to work in this medium is the most fulfilling endeavor I could imagine.

anne nelson sanford  mixing materials

Anne  Nelson Sanford

For me, the inspiration to work with naturals came from a long time fascination and love for essential oils and rare natural materials. I opened an apothecary in Florida in 2001  (before I moved to New York) and I sold only natural and organic skincare/body care products. The shop was the first of it’s kind in Florida and it was during that time that I became interested in oils. I was always looking for natural fragrances to stock and the market was a bit limited at that time..

perfume materials

Anne's work table

I then started dabbling with my own scents and was inspired to create something sophisticated, modern and a little bit “out there”. Many of my fragrances are androgynous by design; I aspire to cross boundaries and create a scent experience that is unexpected and imaginative. The scents are for the person who wants something original, authentic and/or appreciates nature, luxury and art. 

raw material and absolues 

Natural Perfume Absolues

For me the quality of the oils, where they are sourced from, the carrier oils and the process are all core to LURK and to my creative vision. When I set out to do this I really challenged myself to find the most beautiful, pure and sustainable raw materials.  I want to provide a perfume experience that has a modern edge and appeal to a wide range of scent enthusiasts and aficionado’s. It’s really a personal challenge and one born out of curiosity, love for the process and for the natural world.

Anne Nelson Sanford dropper

I am a self trained perfumer and this past year I became a certified natural perfumer through the Natural Perfumers Guild. This has been a tremendous honor for me and also continues to inspire me to hone my skills and push limits. Anya McCoy, founder of the Natural Perfumers Guild, is an ongoing source of support, inspiration and validation.

anne nelson sanford of lurk

Anne Nelson Sanford of LURK

On American Perfumery:What it means to be an indie natural American perfumer: For me it means that I have a place to truly be myself, to experiment, to create, to be free and to be supported. It is a place that it outside of the lines and that speaks to me on a deep level. It is also a space that I can step into and be in the company of some of the most brilliant, inspiring artists working in scent and that in and of itself is extraordinary.  We all have our own stories, individual vision and unique process. The wide open nature of it is very American and very “maverick”. I love that.

the spell of the yukon robert service poet

 Favorite American Artist:  Robert Service (Poet), my father used to read his poems to us when we were little to put us to sleep. His poetry is quite dark but the rhythm/cadence is so incredible that we never noticed until we were older (which is quite funny). The intensity of the words, paired with the beauty of the rhythm has a polarity to it that I gravitate toward (and shows up in my work). That contradictory nature provides endless interest and creative inspiration for me.

Anne Nelson Sanford, Founder, Natural Perfumer, Creative Director LURK

lurk natural perfumes

Thanks to Anne Nelson Sanford we have a Worldwide Draw for a registered reader for any of her perfume oils AS01 BB 11 BS003 CRG V9 NST V7 OM11 PRJV1 PRM016 RSW005 or TRNV4 To be eligible please leave a comment with what you found fascinating about Anne Nelson Sanford‘s path to perfumery, which fragrance you choose and where you live. Draw closes 5/21/2016

Editor’s Note:  Anne is our 101th American Perfumer

 You can follow Anne on Instagram @lurkbeauty and follow us @cafleurebon

Please like CaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery and your entry will count twice.

 We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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37 comments

  • ron payne says:

    What hooked me was her use of “evocative”–what a fragrance may do for one who wears it will be entirely different for another–will it remind you of then, now, or when? I live in Atlanta, GA, USA.

  • Beautiful review. I very love natural fragrances. I very like about Anne Nelson Sanford‘s path to perfumery, that she very enjoy her job. I would very love to try AS01. I have already liked CaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery. Thank you for the draw. I live in Europe.

  • Greennote says:

    I love that she has deliberately recognised that perfume is not necessarily gendered. OM11 sounds beautiful. I’m in Australia.

  • Kmphillips says:

    I love and identify with the experience of and discovering and being riveted by a darker more unisex or masculine type scent like Paloma Picasso as I have had that similar experience. I also love that Anne Nelson Sanford has studied natural perfumery under Anya McCoy. I also love Anne’s choice of American artist as I was introduced to Robert Service through my uncle, who is a poet of the Cowboy Poetry genre. I love the sound of CRG V9 and would love to try that. Thank you so much and I live in the US.

  • I like that you Anne are self-taught in perfumery and make natural oils in the U.S. I too recall the powerhouse fragrances of the 80s.
    BS 003 is my choice though it was hard to choose. USA

  • Great review! So many interesting choices! I would love to try OM011 and am in the US.

  • Lellabelle says:

    I love stories from self taught perfumers, and the American perfumers series is a constant source of inspiration.

    Anne’s scents seem well balanced and interesting – there’s a natural logic to the note pairings that I anticipate will result in a very pleasing outcome. There are two that are really calling to me from her range, NST V7 and OM 011. I’m completely torn and would love to receive either of these. I have an ever so slight leaning towards OM 011, as I am imagining a rich oriental in the vein of Anubis, which is one of my absolute favourite things ever.

    Thank you to Cafleurebon for another great introduction to a perfumer I hadn’t discovered yet, and to Anne for the generous draw. I wish you much success! Canada, please!

  • marcopietro says:

    Great review!
    I appreciate the clarity of Anne thought exposing her aspirations and intentions and I am certainly among that people to whom she turns, those persons “who wants something original, authentic and/or appreciates nature, luxury and art”.
    I would love to try all of her perfume oils, in first TRNV4.
    I live in EU.
    Thanks for the draw!

  • Lissette78 says:

    I feel very identified with the experiences of Anne Nelson Sanford . I think she can make very good contributions to modern perfumery.
    I would like to try all of them but PRM 016 it js my first choice.
    Living in Texas, USA

  • bernardom says:

    Would love to try all of the natural oils! In a world where most fragrance oils are sythetic, it is truly refreshing to have someone like Anne contribuiting on modern perfumery.

    Europe here.

  • misty_father says:

    I like Anne’s strong memory of that 80’s fragrance. We need strong natural fragrances more than ever. I would like to smell all of the oils. Live in the EU.

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    Anne’s profile speaks itself, how much she has passion & love for perfumes from the age of 11. Sounds great to be a self trained perfumer and thus she knows from A to Z about perfumery. Their perfumes are made of few notes which is the beauty of her creations.
    I’ll like to try all of her perfume but for the draw my choice is PRM016. I have already liked CaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery. Thank you for the draw.
    I live in Peshawar, Pakistan

  • Iuno Feronia says:

    This is a wonderful Story – a self-trained perfumer is even harder to do than in a School – you have to be more disciplined and straight Forward. Congrats!

    All the perfumes Sound great and I caanot decide which one of those three: BB 11, PRJ V1 , RSW 005

    So if I win I were grateful to have one of theses.

    I live in the EU, Austria.

    Thanks for the draw!

  • I love the LURK name and i’m all in on “androgynous by design”. My favorite kind of fragrances. PRM 016 is my pick should I be chosen. U.S.A.

  • When I first smelled Anne’s perfumes I recognized a talent devoted to the higher aspirations of natural perfumery. She is a welcome and valued member of the Natural Perfumers Guild and someone I enjoy speaking with, as we focus on pure, natural products and the art. Congratulations, Anne, on becoming the 101st American Perfumer profiled, well deserved.

  • I love the story of little Anne fascinated with beauty and perfume. It is definitely something, to be able to appreciate and understand Paloma Picasso scent at the age of 11! I’ve never tried LURK so far, but really looking forward to do it! Would choose PRM 016. I live in the EU. Thanks!

  • I like that she had an apothecary in which she sold only natural and organic skincare/body care products which lead into creating perfume. I’m most interested in OM 011 and I’m in the US.

  • Oh how cool, what a talent she must have to be self-taught! What a great part of her story. The LURK products look absolutely fabulous. I love these profiles.

    I’m in the EU, and I am most interested in OM 011. It sounds so feminine without being cloying! Thanks for the draw!

  • I found it interesting that the whole talk was of the creative process -without comment as to why she choses to stick solely to naturals. I like that. but am also curiouse to hear to answer to that question.
    I would like BB 11
    Israel

  • ntabassum92 says:

    Thanks to Anne Nelson Sanford we have a Worldwide Draw for a registered reader for any of her perfume oils AS01 BB 11 BS003 CRG V9 NST V7 OM11 PRJV1 PRM016 RSW005 or TRNV4 To be eligible please leave a comment with what you found fascinating about Anne Nelson Sanford‘s path to perfumery, which fragrance you choose and where you live.

    I loved how she described Paloma Picasso. I am in love with that perfume, too! It is glorious. I love hearing stories of what people first fell in love with as fragrances – I love hearing the personal excitement and discovery that she felt looking through her mother’s things – I do that, too! I would choose CRG V9. – VA, U.S.A.

  • fazalcheema says:

    Anne is right the perfumes of the 80s really had a personality and the perfumes she mentions are also among my favorites such as Dior Poison and Paloma Picasso. Her experience also affirms the fact perfumes are closely associated with memories whether it is of people or places.
    I could not help but notice the fact Anne now looks so much like how her mother looked at this age, even the hairstyle is same. Her opinions on American perfumery reflect the characteristics of American culture which promotes individual voice when it comes to art and creativity.

    My choice for this draw will be TRN V4 which has been inspired by Manhattan. I am in the US.

  • I really enjoyed this lovely story! I admire the fact she is a self taught perfumer! The perfumes from the 80’s hold a special place in my heart as well! My choice would be NSTV7 and I am in the UK

  • I recognize the way I came to love perfume. Just like Ann I thought perfume wasn’t for me, but then (much older as Ann was) I discovered a perfume that has drawn me into perfumes. In my case it was Shalimar. Since that time I became an perfume aficionado and I prefer all natural perfumes. So, I loved reading Ann’s story. I live in Europe and I would choose TRNV4. Thank you Ann and Cafleurebon for another lovely story and draw!

  • I love reading about natural perfumers since that my preference in fragrance usually, and I truly enjoyed Anne’s story. I find androgynous perfumes to generally be complex, fascinating, and hard to pin down – just what I like in a perfume! 🙂 They all sound wonderful, but I’d love to try TRNV4 in particular. I live in the US.

  • Miss Almond says:

    I would be delighted to meet Anne, she seems to be so wonderful, creative and interesting person. I believe there is also much to discover in her perfume house and the scents seem to be so perfectly balanced. I would choose PRM016. Thank you for the draw! I live in the EU.

  • Reading about Anne’s childhood discovery of perfume brought back many memories! I can still remember rummaging through my mother’s and grandmother’s dressers. I used to love the endless fragrant creams, ratchets, and bottles I would find. It must be a universal perfumista experience! I would love to try PRJV1. I live in Canada, thank you.

  • teresa310 says:

    Thank you for the fascinating story. I believe Anne’s lifelong fascination with perfume art resulted in really wonderful scents. I don’t know any of them, but I am sure they are as great as everything that comes straight from the heart can be. I would choose TRNV4. My best regards to Anne! Thank you! (EU)

  • echinacea says:

    I love how you pictured Anne’s approach to perfume making: the combination of emotions and memories with the air of a modern alchemy lab, all these pipettes and beakers! I would love to try all the scents, but RSW 005 seem to be the closest to my taste.

    Thanks for the fascinating story!

    I live in the EU.

  • Rachel Lindstrom says:

    Her story brought me back to my grandmother’s dresser when I was girl. She had a bottle of something called Tweed in there and it was rich and strange – nothing like what I came to think of as perfume, much later. I still can’t see tweed fabric without recalling that scent and my grandmother’s seal skin (! not for us moderns thank goodness) coat that I used to sweep around the attic in. Thank you for bringing all that back. ASO1 for me, if I haven’t missed the drawing.

  • Diana Devlin says:

    Each fragrance sounds beautiful with such interesting notes. I’d choose OM11.
    I live in the U.S.

  • Kathy Dempsey says:

    Anne’s history was revealing, interesting & provocative…like a wonderfully captivating fragrance with depth and many layers…leaving you desiring more!

  • I would like 2 win RSW 005 Sandalwood and earthy Rose fragrance looks amazing. What I found so intriguing about Anne path to perfumery was how young she wss for her first perfume memories. I live in America

  • Anne seems so elegant and I was so impressed by her love of raw materials. “scent is an integral part I our psyche” and her awareness of classic fragrances when she was young really is unusual.
    I live in the USA
    It is difficult to choose but OM11 or TRN v4

  • Iphigenia says:

    I very much liked the fact that she is a self trained perfumer and loves experimenting with fragrances and this is something that American Indie perfumery offers to her. I am also a fun of eighties’ perfume creations loved Poison and Dune from CD house.
    I would love to experience RSW 005 Sandalwood and earthy Rose.
    I am a registered reader living in EU.
    Thank you for the lovely review and draw as well.

  • love the new haircut!
    and am definitely interested in knowing about the late boutique in florida.
    i would chose trn v4, i love anything {fragrance, that is} with tobacco.
    i live in sarasota, florida.
    xo

  • Great read. I love how she cares about the quality of the oils and where they are sourced from. I haven’t heard of this house, but they have a great selection! My choice will be TRN V4. I’m in Canada and thank you very much for this draw.

  • I’m a big fan of essential oils, I think everyone should at least have one. I’m always on the lookout for houses that make great ones. I have not heard about this house until now, but they sure do sound incredible! I’m a fan for sure now.

    There’s multiple choices that I’d love to pick. But to narrow it down, TRN V4 would be my choice. I love tobacco so I’m interested in getting my nose on this one.

    I’m a Canadian reader.