ÇaFleureBon Perfumers’ Workshop: Decoding Natural Materials “The Art and Science”+ 6 Artisan Perfumes Draw

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Tinctures, Essential Oils, raw materials and other ingredients in Elise's perfume organ. (Photo Elise)

Today’s perfumers' workshop is exploring the art and science available to the perfumer, decoding terms and methodology … because there’s nothing more scientific than Mother Nature. Techniques, whether ancient or brand new, that have changed the face of perfumery. Our six talented perfumers, some use only naturals and some use both natural and synthetics, and I describe some of these techniques. 

Elise: Two old processes that are loved and re-invented by modern artisan perfumers are the art of infusion and tincture. It is a way to incorporate beloved and interesting botanical materials into a perfume when the commercial extraction may not be available. Tinctures are generally made using alcohol whereas infusions tend to use a fixed oil like olive oil or jojoba.

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Libby Patterson of LPO Organics

Libby Patterson  of Libby Patterson Organics

Libby: "Through a lengthy process of immersion of the botanical ingredients into the perfumer's alcohol, a subtle echo is built over many filtrations and immersions. This is a beautiful way to build a perfume and becomes very unique based on weather and soil each season, much like wine making, with changes in the scent profile with each small batch

2libbypattersonafricanbluebasil

African Blue Basil with Salvia by Libby Patterson

.African Blue Basil is a strong Basil. The flowers are a bright magenta purple pink, and attract quite a few honey bees. I tincture the flowers. The scent is very earthy. Perfumers will appreciate this as a mash up between a dirty floral achieved by using the *wet dog* otherwise known as Costus and a flat Cistus, or Rock Rose Leaf. It's sexy, and dirty. It's a great foundation in an olive green hue, for any aphrodisiac".

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Jane Cate of A Wing and A Prayer

Jane: "Tinctures are by far one of the most interesting mixtures to use in perfumes. My adventure using these unique blends began in 2011 with Tonka Beans. The tincture process was fairly quick and easy, basically placing the Tonka Beans in perfumer’s denatured alcohol and waiting, plus shaking the bottle on a daily basis, did help as well. Since then I have used the tincture process for Lavender using Lavender Seeds, Clove, Cinnamon and Rosemary, crushing the dried herbs and seeds into a powder with a mortar and pestle, then placing each in their own bottle with perfumer’s denatured alcohol, turning the bottles every day and waiting. The waiting is the hardest part, and when the scent is strong enough usually 3 to 6 months then begin to use it in perfume blends"

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Lavender Photo by Dr.  Elise Pearlstine

Recently, I used the Lavender Tincture in my newest perfume Pan’s Flute. The Lavender tincture mixed well with the violet leaf and gives the blend a rich smooth lavender rose scent.  What I have found is that the aging process creates a better and stronger tincture.  The 2011 Tonka Bean and Lavender tinctures are beautiful on their own, the newer herbal ones still need time to age to this type of perfection".

Elise: There are a number products newly available to the perfumer through the manipulation of the ancient distillation process. One beautiful example is co-distillation or the simple act of placing two or more botanicals in the still at the same time. Dawn Spencer Hurwitz explains the synergy beautifully.

 

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Dawn Spencer-Hurwitz  An Art and Ofaction Finalist 2016 in her studio in Colorado

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz DSH Perfumes

DSH: "I really love many of the new co-distillates that have recently become available.  They epitomize the concept of synergy perfectly.  The unique way the original botanicals bond through the distillation process creates something much more interesting than if I had just mixed the two essential oils of the same botanicals together.  This 'third' aromatic adds unusual elements and surprise nuances to final perfume designs in ways that make them a joy to work with".

 

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Pine Tree with Resinous Cones by Dr. Elise Pearlstine

Elise: Many co-distillates are made using botanicals that are somewhat similar including resinous woods like pine, cedar, and frankincense. Or perhaps lavender and immortelle. Artisan distillers often experiment with a variety of materials to take advantage of the synergy that results.

 

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Laurie Erickson of Sonoma Scent Studio

Laurie Erickson  of Sonoma Scent Studio

Laurie: "CO2 or SCO2 extracts are oils that are extracted from botanicals using carbon dioxide instead of the steam that is used for traditional EOs or the solvents that are used for absolutes (the CO2, water, or solvent used during extraction is removed from the final product). Each method of extraction produces oils with different chemical profiles and different scents. CO2 extraction does not expose the botanicals to high heat the way steam distillation does, and it often results in a more complete scent representation of the original material. 

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Oakwood CO2 by Laurie Erickson

The difference between steam distillation and CO2 is especially apparent with spices; for example, CO2 extracted cinnamon and Sichuan pepper oils are gorgeous and smell very much like the zesty fresh spices.  The differences can be apparent in woodsy materials too; patchouli CO2 is generally greener and fresher than patchouli EO, and my oakwood CO2 is much more gourmand than my oakwood absolute (the CO2 is sweeter with prominent boozy rum topnotes and a creamy vanillic drydown).  I choose to use CO2 oils on a case-by-case basis when their scent profile matches what I need for a particular composition, but I have switched to using some spice CO2 oils exclusively because I like them so much better than steam-derived EOs"

Elise: Both Shelley Waddington and Irina Adams discuss their use of isolates. This is another modification of the distillation process. To produce an isolate, a distiller/producer carefully manipulates the distillation process to separate a particular molecule from the hundreds that naturally occur in most botanical sources. By carefully timing the process and in combination with vacuum distillation, the aromachemical of interest may be captured as a separate product, providing a more pure note for the perfumer.

 shelley waddington en voyage

Shelley Waddington at her perfume organ

Shelley Waddington  of En Voyage Perfumes

Shelley: Natural isolates exponentially increase the scope of natural perfumery.  My favorite use for isolates is in creating floral fragrances.  So often the essential oil or absolute of a specific flower can be a little disappointing, as some of the notes can be lost in processing.  An isolated natural molecule is a simple thing, much less organoleptically complex than an essential oil or an absolute.  Thus it can be used to restore some of the lost notes of an essential oil or an absolute, to provide a lovely, sheer floral nuance to an existing natural oil or accord, and it can add or emphasize a special note as well.   By combining several isolates, one can build the smell of a specific flower, such as violet or heliotrope.  Or, less specifically, there are isolates that can be used to floralize a blend in a less specific way.

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Evaluating Aromatics by Shelley Waddington

One of the isolates that I use in building my florals is geraniol.  It’s so useful!   It’s a rosy note that can be used as a blender and floralizer in all types of fragrances, but it’s especially good with rose accords and other florals.  It can be used in compounding a violet accord by combining it with the isolates alpha ionone and phenyl ethyl alcohol, as well as violet leaf absolute, cedarwood, cassie, rose, sandalwood and orris.  Geraniol also useful in composing carnation, honeysuckle, and muguet accords.  It’s also good in building a good tuberose base along with the isolates methyl anthranilate and eugenol.  And for a chypre/fougere-type accord, I suggest mixing it with citronellol natural, Oakmoss, Labdanum, a tad of Galbanum, Benzoin resinoid, Lavender essential oil, YlangYlang and Vanillin natural".

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Irina Adam of  Phoenix Botanicals An Art and Ofaction Finalist 2016

I use Vetiverol, an isolate of Vetiver essential oil, to strengthen and stretch out floral accords. In some compositions I want the lighter woodsy aspects of Vetiver and the tenaciousness but not the darker root-like heavier notes. It can act as a beautiful sheer bridge between florals and earthy base accords such as moss or oudh or even Vetiver root, helping smooth transitions".

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Patchouli plants by Dr. Elise Pearlstine

Elise: Lastly, we have one more product of distillation which is usually referred to as molecular distillation. This process has a bit wider scope than the production of natural isolates. The goal of molecular distillation is generally to remove a particular character or set of notes, leaving a subset of molecules (instead of just one as in natural isolates). A good example of this is patchouli essential oil which is often found as a molecular distillation. While many of us love all the aspects of patchouli, for some a more suitable product is free of some of the harsh iron notes carried over from a primitive still, has less color, or perhaps relatively more of the characteristic patchoulol notes. Or all three, giving the perfumer a more refined and light-colored patchouli. As with the production of isolates, the distillation is targeted, using careful timing and vacuum distillation to produce the molecular essential oil.

Dr. Elise Pearlstine,  Editor and Perfumer for Tambela

For our Decoding Natural Materials the art and science Draw: There are six perfumes that use techniques discussed by each artisan perfumer

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Worldwide: DSH Perfumes 10 ml spray of Seve de Pin Voile de Toilette for the drawing. Dawn uses frankincense/cedarwood and cedar/ponderosa pine distillations in this perfume. 99% BOTANICAL

16goaskalicebyenvoyage

Worldwide: EnVoyage Perfumes 5ml purse spray of Go Ask Alice.  Loaded with isolates! ALL NATURAL

18phoenixbotanicalsbedofroses

Worldwide Phoenix Botanicals 5 ml bottle of Bed of Roses Oil Perfume 5ml. Infused with Wild Rose petals. ALL NATURAL

19libbypattersonartichokeearth

USA Only: Libby Patterson LPO Organics 5 ml bottle of Artichoke Earth which is made with Lemon Verbena, Artichoke Concrete, and Roses, Heart Notes with a Musk Dry Down to a Baked Earth. ALL NATURAL

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USA Only: A Wing & A Prayer ¼ ounce purse bottle of Lavender Fields perfume with tinctured lavender. ALL NATURAL

21laurieericksonamberincense

USA Only Sonoma Scent Studio 5 ml travel spray of Amber Incense. With Sichuan pepper and Oakwood CO2. ALL NATURAL
 

To be eligible you must be a Cafleurebon registered reader (register here).  Please leave a comment with what you learned about decoding perfume ingredients,siting specifics,  your choices should you win, and where you live. We congratulate Elise on a  much deserved promotion  Draw closes 9/30/2016.

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feedor your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

 

 

 

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40 comments

  • What an interesting read! I didn’t know that the process of CO2 disstilation can be so important to the quality of the extract and I’d love to smell some extracts obtained this way and to compare them with the substances extracted in a ‘traditional’ way.

    I’d love to try Seve de Pin. Thank you for so interesting article!

  • I learned of the difference between steam distillation and CO2 (and that each method produces oils with different chemical profiles and different scents. And I learned that, “Tinctures are generally made using alcohol whereas infusions tend to use a fixed oil like olive oil or jojoba”. I’d love to win Lavender Fields and Artichoke Earth. 🙂 usa

  • This was a terrific article, and I especially loved Shelly’s explaination of the compounded isolates for specific notes. I have 3 isolate sheets in front of me that give the general odor panel, but this really helped to crystallize it for me. Thanks for this!
    I would love to try the Bed Of Roses Perfume Oil (stone-cold rose ho’ that I am…) and I live in the USA.

  • Wow, so much new knowledge in so few words and in so friendly form! Especially the subject of molecular distillation was new to me. Please, we want more such articles (well, at least I want more of them). Thank you Elise!

    I’d love to try Bed of roses, Go Ask Alice or Seve de Pin Voile de Toilette. I live in Norway.

  • I had no idea about infusions and tinctures, that was interesting–it makes me think of how the medieval world soaked flower petals etc in water and used the then ‘perfumed’ water. I wonder why Jane Cate says she must ‘turn the bottles every day’ — it must be some chemistry.

    The mention of adding violet leaf to a lavender scent is really interesting, like how people say you should add salt to hot chocolate to intensify the choco taste. It’s strange to think of how many pieces are in a perfume that you don’t think of or smell outright.

    The steam distillation discussion was so complex! I forget how much in terms of science/chemistry these artists really know and use, lol! So often perfume seems merely restricted to the ‘poetic’ in terms of its world.

    The talk about Vetiverol makes me almost want to try making my own perfumes [since it’s an encyclopedic-type of information about how it strengthens florals.] But I don’t think I could remember so much about the different chemicals/isolates etc, haha.

    Is it weird that patchouli plant looks like mint to me??

    The Artichoke Earth scent looks so interesting!! I also like the Amber Incense scent. [I have recently begun buying amber perfumes]. I am in the USA.

  • This article was very interesting, but Jane Cate’s use of tinctures was the most approachable to me. I liked that it takes several months for the tincture to reach the strength necessary for use in the creation of the perfume.
    if I were to win the draw, I’d choose Amber Incense by Sonoma Scent Studio.
    I live in the USA.

  • I have learned about many methods here such as distillation, isolates, tincture, infusion, and co-distillation. I came to know about tincture also through a cafleurebon article. Co-distillation seems a new method and quite interesting. It almost feels like creating an accord but with the help of the nature.

    My choices will be:
    EnVoyage Perfumes Go Ask Alice
    Sonoma Scent Studio Amber Inscense
    DSH Perfumes Seve de Pin

    I am in the US.

  • I have made several tinctures and used them in my own mixtures. I was not familiar with CO2 or molecular distillation and how they could be used in blending. I enjoyed reading each perfumers use and explanation of the different techniques. USA Bed of Roses would be my choice for the draw.

  • Wow, very complex. No wonder I didn’t do so well in high school chemistry. I didn’t know that you could isolate a single molecule. Perfumers are truly scientists. I would love to win the Seve de Pin Voile. I haven’t seen ponderosa pine in fragrance before and I learned at a distillery in Santa Fe, NM that the sap actually smells like butterscotch. Thanks for the “science lesson” this evening! Rox

  • What a great lesson in natural material selection! What was new to me was the co-distillation that is being done. It makes sense though,that two ingredients distilled together turn into more that the sum of the parts, like perfumery itself. What a wonderful time to be a natural perfumer with so many new possibilities. I’m in the USA and would be happy with any of these! Thank you for the lesson and the draw!h

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    This is an Awesome article.
    What I have learned is that the extraction of aromatic compounds from raw materials, using methods such as distillation, tincture, infusion and co-distillation. I love the co-distillation process described by the Dawn Spencer Hurwitz and Laurie Erickson. If I become perfumer I’ll choose to use CO2 method.
    Thanks for the draw. If I win I’ll choose:
    DSH Seve de Pin Voile de Toilette
    EnVoyage Go Ask Alice
    Phoenix Botanicals Bed of Roses
    Peshawar, Pakistan

  • The synergistic effects of combing distillates was something I hadn’t considered before. I live in the USA, please enter in the draw for seven de pin or lavender fields.

  • Many things are new to me, or, to be precise, I have heard most of the terms before, but was not sure about their exact meaning, especially the difference between infusion and tincture. I think it is a brilliant idea to share some perfume science with Cafleurebon readers. Thank you! I would be extremely happy to win Bed of Roses of Seve de Pin.

    (EU)

  • Very intersting the part of isolates and how they can be used to floralize a blend in a less specific way.

    thanks for the draw. I live in the EU.

    My choices would be either Bed of Roses or Go Ask Alice.

  • I had never heard of co-distillates but it is a process which makes sense, with endless possibilities. I also didn’t know about isolates. Crerating perfumes the natural way is a much more involved process than I had imagined! I would be happy with any of these but would especially like the try DSH Seve de Pin or Wing and a Prayer Lavender Fields. Thank you. USA

  • Beautiful article. It was very interesting to read. I did not know about the process of CO2 distillation and how exactly tinctures are made. I very love natural perfumes. If I would be as lucky to win, I would love to try Phoenix Botanicals Bed of Roses Oil Perfume. Thank you for the chance. I live in Europe.

  • Salim Khattak says:

    This is a fascinating article & I really enjoy reading the different techniques used for perfume oil extraction. I only heard simple method of distillation but now I learned some more interesting techniques like tinctures, isolates, infusion and co-distillation. The process of CO2 distillation is unique & require less heat.
    Thanks for the giveaway.
    If I win, I would be happy with any of these:
    DSH Seve de Pin Voile
    Phoenix Bed of Roses
    EnVoyage Go Ask Alice
    I am from Peshawar, Pakistan

  • I learnt how co-distillates are made.

    My choices are:

    Go Ask Alice
    Seve de Pin Voile de Toilette
    Bed of Roses

  • Very nice article. I didn’t know there were so many different ways to prepare botanical perfumes. I’ve read about C02 before and I’ve heard about isolates, but reading how the process works made it a lot clearer.

    I would love to win Go Ask Alice, Seve de Pin or Bed if Roses. I live in EU. Thanks for this wonderful draw!

  • i will keep this article as abookmark as i have multiple ingredients to make perfume and i already tried to make a tincture (which somehow soesn’t seem to succeed) So i will print this and add it to my big box of ingredients and will try and try until it does succeed. So much more to learn though.

    If i wil be the lucky female B, i would like to have:
    Phoenix Botanicals Bed of Roses
    EnVoyage Go Ask Alice
    DSH Seve de Pin Voile de Toilette

  • It’s always such a treat to see glimpses of perfumers workspaces, materials and process. I learned about the production of co-distillates, and this made me want to hunt down some specific ones.

    For that reason, my choice would have to be DSH Seve de Pin, for the frankincense/cedar wood and cedar/ponderosa pine co-distillates. Canada, please. Thanks!

  • What I like most is co-distillation method and the concept of synergy of the substances isolated that way. My choice would be Seve de Pine because I would love to try the example of this synergic scent. I live in Europe.

  • Thank you for this article, it’s very cool to find out that some perfumers are still crafting their own raw materials themselves. I found the description of tincturing most interesting because I can relate it to methods we use in cooking – the same as how we make flavoured oils for example. If I win I would choose DSH’s Seve de Pin Voile de Toilette, because I have yet to try something from this house! I live in Canada, thanks!

  • cinnamon tree says:

    I have always been more interested in the results of perfume making than in the process itself, so it is all new to me. I didn’t know it is so complicated and time consuming, I think I have underestimated the hard work of perfumers. It was great to have the opportunity to read about it.
    My choices: Bed of Roses Phoenix Botanicals or DSH Seve de Pin. I live in the EU. Thank you!

  • I have learnt today that modern perfumers still use two very old processes when making fragrances – infusion and tincture. Tinctures are made using alcohol and infusions use a fixed oil (olive oil or jojoba). Libby Patterson of LPO tinctures the flowers of African Blue Basil and gets an earthy and sexy foundation for her fragrances.
    I am in Europe.
    My choices will be: Bed of Roses Phoenix Botanicals, DSH Perfumes Seve de Pin, EnVoyage Perfumes Go Ask Alice. Thanks.

  • cinnamon tree says:

    What I found most interesting in the article is the idea of “floralizing” the fragrance by adding single molecule to it. I had no idea that a single substance can have so much (and so sophisticated) effect on the smell of a blend. It is fascinating.
    I’d be happy to get Seve de Pin by DSH. Thanks for the draw, I live in the EU.

  • cinnamon tree says:

    Sorry I commented twice, but I am re-reading the entry and finding more and more fascinating things in it. I am so excited! Can you recommend some more reading on the subject (for a person who has very little knowledge about chemistry)?

  • Cinnamon Tree, my book “Perfuming with Natural Isolates” would be a very good starting place for you. It’s available on my En Voyage Perfumes website and also on Amazon. Happy reading!

  • I like the process of molecular distillation. You used a perfect example, too, about using this distillation for patchouli oil. I generally am not a big fan of full-blown patchouli. But I’ve been pleasantly surprised with certain fragrances that contain the note, yet the fragrance isn’t overpowered by it. So I imagine they must have used this process to extract a single element from it.

    I’d love to win the Sonoma Scent Studio 5 ml travel spray of Amber Incense.

    I live in the U.S.

  • I had no idea that tinctures take three to six months to mature — that takes patience! I’d be thrilled to win any of these, but my top choices would be Go Ask Alice, Bed of Roses, Lavender Fields or Amber Incense. I’m in the US. Thanks!

  • Among all the new things I learned from the text, I like the idea of co-distillation most, because as Dawn suggests, chemistry meets art and even philosophy there and I believe that the true nature of the complex scent of co-distilled oils is yet to be discovered.

    If I win, I’d choose
    DSH Seve de Pin
    En Voyage Go Ask Alice.

    Thank you for the draw. I live in the EU.

  • Very interesting article! I had actually read up on quite a few of these techniques and I make fixtures and infusions at home. I didn’t realise how many variations of distillation there were, though! I knew about steam and CO2, but not isolates and molecular. Fascinating! I wonder how steep the learning curve is to the different methods. I’d love to try one day.

    I live in Canada and would love to win the Phoenix Botanicals, DSH Perfumes, or EnVoyage Perfumes. Thank you!

  • It is so interesting how different the same material can smell after it’s gone through steam, CO2, or molecular distillation. I especially liked the discussion of co-distillations and how that method results in different aromas than if two separately produced ingredients are blended after distillation. Thanks for posting the cool article and hosting the draw!

    I’m in the US and these would be my top three choices to win:

    DSH Seve de Pin Voile de Toilette
    Sonoma Scent Studio Amber Incense
    EnVoyage Perfumes Go Ask Alice

  • I have never heard of CO2 distillation and I read the article with a lot of interest. It helped me to understand many things about perfume making. Thank you for this and for the draw. I would pick Seve de Pin if I win. I live in the EU.

  • I love this statement “There is nothing more scientific than Mother Nature”. I think what Libby says about tincture making perfectly describes the relation between the scientific and the natural: “This is a beautiful way to build a perfume and becomes very unique based on weather and soil each season, much like wine making, with changes in the scent profile with each small batch”. Thank you for the article! My pick would be En Voyage Go Ask Alice (what a great name for a perfume!). EU.

  • I wasn’t aware there is more than one type of disstillation and didn’t know the difference between CO2 and typical disstillation. And I didnt know that patchouli plant looks so similar to mint 🙂

    My top choices would be:
    Seve de Pin
    Bed of Roses

    I live in Europe. Thanks for the draw!

  • I like what Jane Cate said about tinctures that has to age like a good wine. Natural perfumes are like slow food and in this “slow perfumery” one has to wait longer and probably spend more on something unique and better than “fast” mass production. I see it as an advantage, something that makes natural fragrances more precious.

    If I win, I’d choose DSH Seve de Pin. I live in the EU. Thank you for this generous draw:)

  • Truly fascinating to learn about co2 extractions and codistillations especially in floral and patchouli I would like to win bed of roses, seve de pin or Amber incense USA

  • I enjoyed learning about the distinction between tinctures and infusions “Tinctures are generally made using alcohol whereas infusions tend to use a fixed oil like olive oil or jojoba.” And Jane Cate’s tincture recipe of “using Lavender Seeds, Clove, Cinnamon and Rosemary, crushing the dried herbs and seeds into a powder with a mortar and pestle” sounds wonderful. I live in the US and would choose DSH Perfumes Seve de Pin Voile de Toilette or Sonoma Scent Studio Amber Incense.

  • I loved learning about the different methods of perfumery. I would be grateful to win any of the scents in mentioned on this article.