ÇaFleureBon Best (and Worst) Fragrances of 2017 + Part 1 Draw

Best Fragrances of 2017

For as long as ÇaFleureBon has been giving our best fragrance awards(2010), (2011), (2012), (2013) (2014), (2015),(2016),  there is always the question, was this a good year for perfume? This year it was the best of times and also the worst of times, add boring of timesThis year, in Part 1, Ermano Picco and I present our Best Fragrances of 2017 (and less than impressive scents too).

Lucy and Ethel can't keep up with the conveyer belt of candy

It is the first year that I felt overwhelmed by the number of new releases. I somehow I sniffed my way through 498 perfumes, and my colleague Contributor Ermano Picco of la gardenia nell’ occhiello  tested over 300; we felt like Lucy and Ethel in the chocolate factory, haplessly trying to make our way through hundreds of new scents that crossed our desks, especially in November and December. I am sure we missed some gems. Dear Perfumers and Fragrance Companies, late releases work for the Oscars because we tend to forget what was in the theaters earlier that year. We didn’t forget, and in fact our noses  were beginning to burn out mid- November. 

Best Trends- Rhubarb used in surprising ways. Lovely Iris fragrances, ahead of  Pantone's color the year Ultra-Violet? Lactonic, milky, creamy notes to comfort us in an unsettled world. Clary Sage also being used as a “healing” ingredient. Green is the new black; Natural perfumery is truly a global force. Neo-Synthentics and vintage inspired fragrances are strong this year as well. 30 ml sizes are becoming more available as are discovery kits. Parfumerie Generale Coffret 60 is a genius way to introduce you to Pierre Guillaume’s greatest hits as is the beautifully presented and very affordable discovery sets from M. Micallef and Parfums de Nicolai that ship worldwide. I also have noticed that Poland is the new Paris, becoming a hub for artistic perfumes. –Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief

Ermano Picco and Michelyn Camen

Time to move on: War of the (Tuber)oses. Many of the new ‘pillar’ perfumes launched by Designer Houses centered on tuberose and although there were some interesting takes, since they launched around the same time, many began to smell the same. Another peeve is when brands launch in Europe before the USA, or vice versa. Never underestimate the acquisitive nature of an avid perfumista.  –Michelyn

Vanilla, caramel and chocolate.  May we have gourmand 2.0 please? (Btw, gourmand means edible, not necessarily sweet & sticky)-Ermano Picco, Contributor

Luca Maffei, photo by Ermano

Hardest Working Person in Perfume goes to Luca Maffei of Aftelier Fragranze, who composed  over 20  niche perfumes this year:  (Irrévérent and Not a blue bottle 1.2, Histoires de Parfums, Terra Mia and Gelsomini di Capri for Carthusia, Vanhera, Laboratorio Olfattivo, Quelques Fleurs Jardin Secret and Quelques Fleurs Jardin Secret Extrait, Houbigant Paris, Bella Donna, Jul et Mad Paris, Rosso Epicureo, L'Oree, Les Frivolites  and Lilas Exquis Jacques Fath, Savannah's Heart, Maison Olibere Paris, Le Sixieme and Le Septieme Coolife, Parfums, Archetipo, Mendittorosa Odori dell'Anima, 1001, Nobile 1942, Giuseppe, Naso di Raza and Muda and  Palafitico, Comporta Perfumes).

Most Passionate Perfumer: Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes is one of the most prolific perfumers in the world and works in many medias and genres. Dawn’s love and respect for perfumes from the past shine this year especially her "Animalics". In 2017 she introduced Foxy, Une Robe Zibelline, and Habibi and each were spectacular.

Saskia Havekes of Grandiflora

Best Niche House

Grandiflora- I was really pleased to see Saskia Havekes in Milan this year introducing her latest perfume. Boronia  is a brilliant scent using the rare and the expensive absolute, and it also proves that the house is able to stretch the boundaries of the floral eponymous theme to unexpected interpretations.-Ermano 

Cire Trudon– The venerable candle company’s expansion into fragrance lit my fire. Perfumers Yann Vasnier, Lyn Harris and Antoine Lie composed five fragrances that stayed true to the 400 year old legacy but are surprisingly modern.-Michelyn

Best Indie House – Vero Kern of Vero Profumi who released this year Naja, the most unusual tobacco (a major trend over the last couple of years) uplifted by a bewitching fruity floral accord. –Ermano

I give the award to Sarah McCartney of 4160 Tuesdays, who in just five years, has built a worldwide cult-following with wonderfully composed scents with fabulous names. This year she released Mrs Gloss Lemon Sherbet, Eau My Soul for the Facebook group of the same name, the 9 Our Modern Lives fragrances, the Rhubarb & Custard trio and Damn Rebel Witches for REEK.-Michelyn 

Parfumeurs du Monde: Perrine Scandel Michel Roudnitska, Eric Gigodot, Thierry Bernard, Isabelle Gelle with Michelyn and Ermano at Esxence 2017

Best Natural Perfume House: If there is any doubt still in the minds of fragrance lovers that natural perfume is not an art, especially in the French tradition of classical perfumery these 5 respected French perfumers: Michel Roudnitska, Perrine Scandel, Isabelle Gellé, Thierry Bernard, and Jean-Claude & Eric Gigodot proved otherwise. They joined forces to create their first 100% natural perfume collection under the brand name Parfumeurs du Monde. Each perfumer composed a perfume around one country and one ingredient that are close to their heart, following on their commitment to adhere to the Parfumeurs du Monde's charter of using only natural ingredients. Part of the profits will be given to Coeur de Forêt, a Paris-based NGO established in 2005 which supports small producers for the rehabilitation and protection of forests in Bolivia, Cameroon, Indonesia, Madagascar and Peru. – Michelyn and Ermano

Tanja Bochnig photo by Pavel Becker

Best Natural Perfumer:

Tanja Bochnig of April Aromatics. Pink Wood  was a finalist in the international contest OSA – Outsider Scents Awards, and it is a unique take on the rose-oud theme that explores the Mittel European woody traditions from the Black Forest with unexpected wild berries and resins combination that  is one of the best expressions of nature into modern perfumery- Ermano

Irina Adam of Phoenix Botanicals: The  2x Art and Olfaction Finalist, natural perfumer Irina Adam of Phoenix Botanicals is at one with nature, with her own signature that shows in her symphonic use of naturals. This year, I loved Apple Iris Root and Lotus Pollinator.-Michelyn

Grandiflora Boronia Saskia Havekes, Ermano and Bertrand Duchaufour

Best Perfumer: Bertrand Duchaufour proved again  he is the Master of Niche with his work for Grandiflora.   Boronia explores all the facets of this Australian star raw material into a spiced, solar, herbal interpretation on a traditional and somehow long forgotten theme of the Trèfle Incarnat. Bringing tradition to the future is the real modernity and he knows how to do it brilliantly.- Ermano 

Michelyn with Yann at The Fragrance Foundation Awards-Photo Luca Maffei

While I love so many of Bertrand Duchaufour’s perfumes, and Boronia is one of my top ten of 2017, in my opinion this was not his best year. Yann Yasnier is my pick for Best Perfumer of 2017 as he continues to demonstrate his ability to move seamlessly between the worlds of luxury commercial, niche and artistic perfumery. He brought a fresh new perspective to Jo Malone with the Bloombury Set and The English Oak Collection, Ex Nihilio Citizen X,  Mortel for Cire Trudon and to the neo-gourmand Blondine for FrassaiMichelyn

Best Fragrances 2017

Best Fragrance Of The Year:

Photo by Clayton

Grandiflora Boronia-Ermano

Photo by Ermano

NUIT de Bakelite (Naomi Goodsir, Renaud Coutadier and Isabelle Doyen)- in a year of many mediocre tuberoses, safe and screechy for the most part, Naomi Goodsir, Renaud Coutadier and the magnificent Isabelle Doyen created a tuberose very different than any I  have encountered. It is the bud before the flower opens and becomes the heady queen of the night. It is the roots, the seed, grown in a bio-sphere in another galaxy. My nose to my wrist, I smell fractured shards of green tuberose, textured and deconstructed. NUIT de Bakelite is a DARING perfume and unlike any others.-Michelyn

Worst fragrance (or most disappointing  …) 

I really had great expectations for both Chanel Gabrielle and Hermès Twilly. Both were like the second book from a new author and hence the real proof for perfumers Olivier Polge and Christine Nagel. Both are not really “worst fragrances”, but they have disappointed me very much. They are pretty, conservative and blatantly cater to millennials in the worst possible way. Now I don’t know if the blame should fall on the perfumers since from a technical point they are flawless, but perhaps on the marketing evaluators t (we should always consider the importance of evaluators!). I’d fire the marketing people tomorrow.-Ermano

Tiffany & Co apped by Robert

Best Bottle:

I really loved the Tiffany new bottle. The design is classic and somehow simple, and yet it brings new sparkle to the visual codes of the house.-Ermano

Shalini Jardin Nocturne Lalique Tourbillons flacon: A thing of beauty is a joy forever-Michelyn

Best fragrances of 2017

Tie: Best Designer Fragrance – Frederic Malle Alber Ebaz Superstitious (Dominque Ropion) is as elegant and refined as a couture gown from the 50s, but not retro or dated…  a masterful blend of roses, incense and aldehydes. Etat Libre D'Orange Une Amourette Roland Mouret-Daniela Andrier drapes and shapes Iris and Patchouli so that it slides over the skin like satin in this intiguing and sensual scent. Bringing Sexy back to the subversive house. -Michelyn

Tiffany Tiffany & Co. a beautifully crafted perfume from Givaudan perfumer Daniela Andrier. It’s a less industrial, brighter, fruity-iodine sparkling take on the Andrier signature musky iris for Prada. –Ermano

Best Limited Edition Perfume:

LALIQUE DE LALIQUE Crystal Flacon | Limited, Numbered and Signed Edition 2017

40th anniversary edition “Opium” Extrait de Parfum: This year Opium celebrated its 40th year. Artist Manuela Paul-Cavallier reworked the iconic bottle with touches of gold—a metal dear to Yves Saint Laurent applied painstakingly to mark the milestone  20 hand-numbered bottles were made available priced €2,000 for 15ml. This flacon ties with my best bottle choice as well.

Best Fragrance Event:

Casamorati Ballo delle debuttanti at Venaria Reale. It was indeed a major event in one of the most beautiful Castles in Italy bringing such youth, luxury and nobleness mix to the highest levels -Ermano.

via instagram

Worst bottle:

Also speaking about bottles the year has been pretty safe and conservative, featuring lots of flankers reusing the same bottle with minor variations. One of the worst ones to me, more as a concept that as a result, was the Nuit et Confidences one by Annick Goutal (now brutally renamed to just Goutal). Who needs to make a boudoir bottle with charms and ponpons when Annick Goutal itself already had the most boudoir bottle (think Mon Parfum Cheri i.e.) in Perfumeland?-Ermano

Hermes Twilly: I know many will disagree, but this bottle doesn’t reflect the luxe classic flacons I expect from Hermes. I keep thinking Mr. Potato Head ran into Hercule Poirot and stole his hat.  Dishonorable mention to Gucci Bloom’s bland beige bottle. Boring.-Michelyn

Best Bang for the Buck: Molinard Les Amouteux de Peynet. Beautiful citrus cologne, amazing bottle, nice price.-Ermano and Michelyn

Rising Star:  

Abel  “Sinclair” with its magnolia laden Golden Neroli is the proof this New Zealand perfumer has really learned how to master naturals to render abstract elegance. I hope we’ll see him doing more and more in the future. -Ermano

John Biebel of January Scent Project

January Scent Project: Artist, Fragrantica writer and perfumer John Biebel captivated me with his bold and fearless style that pays homage to the great  fragrances of his mentors and to the past with his vintage style illustrated posters. He is an American perfumer that represents why I started the Profiles in American Perfumery series in July of 2011; he embodies the spirit and daring of our country's finest  artisan perfumers. EiderantlerSelperniku and Vaporocindro debuted in 2017 and he is in a class of his own (freely gives credit to Sr. Editor Ida Meister for her time and knowledge). That’s class.-Michelyn

Best (fragrance) Book JC Ellena L’ecrivain d’odeurs -Ermano and Michelyn

Best Collaboration Etat Libre D’Orange Chandler Burr for You or someone like you

 I have to recuse myself, because I really do think our Project Talisman project with 7 perfumers was the best collaboration of 2017, but of course that would be biasedCDG x Vogue 125 gets my vote. Vogue’s First Perfume!!! Beauty Director Celia Ellenberg and Comme des Garcons creative director Christian Astuguevieille bottle 125 years of style, fashion history and photography.

Best Ad: 

Tiffany & Co by Steven Meisel -Ermano

Gucci Bloom: Creative director Alessandro Michele was named WWD’s Newsmaker of the Year and you can feel his off beat imprint on this incredible ad,  shot in New York City’s Time Square. As a New Yorker, turning 42nd street into a garden made me happy. The perfume is one of the better of the new pillar scents.-Michelyn

Worst Ad: 

Also for ads this year boredom wins. Even Chanel which used to be a role model for creating ads with a story surrender to boredom with the totally uninspired ad for Chanel featuring Kirsten Stewart.

Gain Fling Unicorn Commercial- sniffing the guy in the front end of the unicorn costume

I agree with Ermano, many of the designer fragrance ads look the same. What was truly horrible was the ad for GAIN. Galoxide is a perfume? Now if you haven’t seen it, a dad is at his daughter's birthday party and has to get into the hind quarters of his unicorn costume. He was not happy until he smelled the Gain Fling scent emanting from  the dad who was the unicorn head. It is so BAD it's good. But wanting to smell like a laundry detergent. EWWWW-Michelyn

Giovana Antonellie 611 Extremo

Giovanna Antonelli and  611 Extremo apped MC

Best Celebrity Fragrance:

611 Extremo (Cecile Matton)- A celebrity niche perfume house?  Co-founder Lionel Guignard’s partner Edson Fernandes, a designer met Brazilian mega star Giovanna Antonelli and “fell in love” with her spirit. 611 Extremo was my personal favorite, a spicy vibrant tuberose that  made me feel I was in a garden in Rio-Michelyn

Worst Celebrity Fragrance:

The Italian market is not really into celebrity scents, and this year I didn’t see any new around here, so that’s difficult to me to name any.-Ermano

Somehow Kim Kardashian turns being robbed at gunpoint into money making machine (10 million dollars in just one day) with Crystal Gardenia -Michelyn

Best perfume you want to drink or eat: The new Antonio Alessandria Gattopardo. Patchouli, iris, rhum and a sicilian pastry make it something really gorgeous, like a rum infused almond pastry sprinkled with bitter cocoa. Totally bittersweet yummy!-Ermano

Best flanker:

Guerlain La Petite Robe Noir Black Perfecto. Not only it’s a slightly darker and woodier take on LPRN, but it also involved amusing crossmarketing collaboration with Le coq sportif for a pair of classic gym shoes featuring the LPRN logo.- Ermano

M.Micallef  Ananda Tchai (Geoffrey Nejman and Jean-Claude Astier): In Sanskrit ananda means pure bliss and the 4th in the series is spiced tea infused with nutmeg and cardamom. Just beautiful.

Best Fragrance Name:

Witty and provocative, I found Peccato Originale “Gas Antisociale” the most daring name breaking the pretentious boredom ruling the market.-Ermano

"Perfume Sucks", and this year many did -Michelyn

Michelyn and Olivier Durbano

MVP (Most Valuabe Perfume Person): In 2005 Olivier Durbano created his first perfume Rock Crystal. He is one of the most soulful and talented perfumers (and artists) in the industry. Olivier is a modern Renaissance man: a jeweler, artist, perfumer, designer, and healer.   In 2016 he moved his home base to Grasse, where he opened his flagship store, repackaged his fragrances and launched Labradorite #13, another emotional Pierre Poeme. We need more people like Olivier who are passionate and fearlessly go their own way  and stay true to  their art.-Michelyn and Ermano

Best Buzz –  Mugler Aura. A totally new Mugler scent is always an awaited event and Aura was no less. -Ermano

Fucking Fabulous. Only Tom Ford could unseat Gabrielle Coco Chanel from her throne. It was the fragrance EVERYONE was talking about in 2017.-Michelyn

Hall of shame (…less than impressed…)

Let me confess I had more expectations from the new Beaufort London Revenants series. Iron Duke was a major letdown to me with its full frontal blast of scratching ambery woods. Definitely something not new but also with no interesting take on the inspiration to me. -Ermano

Still the forums are abuzz with CREED Aventus batch numbers. Also Fragrance owners who pretend they are perfumers really irk me, give credAnd it’s time for Gwneth Paltrow and her perfumer to consciously uncouple. Goop fragrances are poorly made and just seem to ride the green bandwagon without any innovation. Overpriced and nothing new. Throwing marketing buzz words like vegan confuse me; I do not eat my perfume. Gender-fluidity, while the right concept is the wrong name; only Etat Libre d’Orange and Secretions Magnifique should be able to use it.   For me, the worst offense is when owners and creative directors stand next to a perfume organ and say they are the perfumer for their line when indeed they are not. It happens more than you think. This is one of the reasons why Mark Behnke of Colognoisseur and I started our Perfume Signatures series-Michelyn

Hall of Fame:

Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes:  While so many are trying to hop on the ‘green’ trend, Mandy has been “The Queen of Green” for 25 years. Mandy Aftel had a stellar year in perfumery with one of the few tuberoses that was worthy of the name “Queen of The Night”- Velvet Tuberose. Readers know I say “Don’t buy fragrance as a gift”. I broke my own rule as I bought Aftelier Perfumes' Night Blooming beauty of a scent for a dear friendThis year Mandy opened her “Archive of Curious Scents” next door to her home where visitors are able to smell more than three hundred natural essences derived from fruits, flowers, trees, grasses, and other natural sources (and take three samples home), once again sharing her vast knowledge with the public. The Aftel Award for Handmade Perfume was announced by The Institute of Art and Olfaction and her book “The Art of Flavor”. Co-authored by world renowned chef Daniel Patterson is a best-seller.

After leaving L’Artisan Parfumeur, Nick Steward, my pick for hall of fame  made his comeback to perfumery with his own brand based on his stories and travel experiences portrayed by young perfumers Giorgia Navarra and Karine Chevalier. I particularly liked Istanbul and can’t wait  to globetrot some more in 2018.-Ermano

 Best Creative Director:

Naomi Goodsir and Reynaud Coutadier for Nuit de Bakelite. I really loved the obsessive interpretation of Tuberose Naomi and Reynaud steered with Isabelle Doyen. I also like the connection with Louise Bourgeois and the total white Insomnia project.-Ermano

Nick Steward of Gallivant: The former creative director of L’Artisan Parfumeur gallivanted his way all over the world, literally, to each stockist for personal appearances (he must have enough frequent flyer miles now to circle the planet). Nick, who has worked with some of the best perfumers in the world, enlisted Giorgia and Karine to compose under his watchful eye and well trained nose 6 fantastic ‘scents of place’ for men and women. Not only do they capture the experience of travel but are designed for travel… 30 ml nomad sized flacons, perfect for slipping into your luggage, purse or backpack.  Did I mention he is the nicest and one of the most knowledgeable people in all of perfumery? -Michelyn

Best Fragrance you never heard of:

Something you surely never heard of is Humus by Michele Bianchi, the winner of OSA 2017 which now he’s producing in small batches from Russia. After Zoologist Bat by Ellen Covey, this perfume makes the most unusual use of geosmine (the salty, earthy, cold molecule responsible for petrichor smell) into an accord rendering the caramelized sugar beets under the Apulian sun-Ermano

DedCool 04 by Carina Chaz. L.A. Based artisan perfumer Carina Chaz 04 is proof there is nothing dumb about Blonde. A dirty violet saffron soaked scent somehow got hidden in the blonde woods. Now you know. You will thank me later. Be smart and Blind Buy -Michelyn

 Michelyn and Ermano’s Best Fragrances of 2017 

What is surprising this year is that although we live 4 thousand miles away from each other and smelled them at different times, we had similar takes on 2017 Best Fragrances.

Antonio Alessandria Gattopardo –Boozy, opulently aromatic and gourmand, Gattopardo is the most original take on Patchouli  2017– Ermano and Michelyn

April Aromatics Pink Wood- One of the most innovative perfumes of the year, natural or otherwise, Tanja rendered rose and oud in an absolutely unpredictable and innovative way. It came third in OSA Awards, so I wish I could smell the other two like Ermano did.  -Michelyn and Ermano

Gallivant Istanbul (Karine Chevallier) We loved the spiced, aromatic powdery trail of Istanbul, so different from the predictable dried fruits, rose laden orientals you might expect. Istanbul enchants with its contemporary chic vibe- Ermano and Michelyn

Ineke Idyllwild: Ineke Ruhland's homage to Big Sur is one of the most elegant Aromatic Fougeres I have smelled. Ever.-Michelyn

Le Cri de la LumiéreMarc-Antoine Corticchiato of Parfum D’Empire which was three years in the making. A study in simplexity; a seemingly simple combination of three notes artfully blended to create one of the “must-have” floral releases of 2017. This scent whispers, it is delicate and  textured. You don’t need to shout to make yourself heard.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Satin Mood Extrait – The extrait de parfum version turns up the volume of spiced, medicinal and sensual facets of oud, contrasting since the topnotes the sweetness of the rose-violet candied satin and the result is gorgeous-Ermano

Masque Milano Times Square (Bruno Jovanovic) Memory and scent are  forever linked. I was one of the big-haired, red-lipsticked, stiletto-wearing women who hurried through Times Square to catch the subway, smelling my wrists because the stench was so bad . Hot rubber, pink bubblegum and bosomy tuberose, over the top and crazily addictive. -Michelyn

Memo Paris Eau de Memo Celebrating ten years of the Brand, this cologne explores the liveliness of a hesperidic bouquet backed by smooth, opaque suede brilliantly reviving a sporty-chic classic. Ermano

Mona di Orio Dojima (Frederic Dalman)- Frederic Dalman, the in-house perfumer, who joined the Maison in 2016 did not seek to replace Mona di Orio, rather bring his own style, respecting Mona’s in his work. Dojima incorporates the trends towards creamy comforting fragrances as well healing ingredients like Clary Sage. The rice accord is extraordinary in its delicacy- Michelyn

Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakelite (Isabelle Doyen)–A bitter-green deconstructed floral exploring every facet of tuberose from stem to bud. -Michelyn and Ermano

Puredistance Warszawa (Antoine Lie) – I really enjoyed the way the subversive Antoine Lie is so versatile and can render a uber-chic, restrainedly elegant floral bouquet with fruity chypre facets that perfectly balance romance, class and sensuality.-Ermano

Roja United Arab Emirates To me this is best oud in the Roja Dove line. The crispness of Taif Rose and the dark chypre context make it one of the most refined rose-oud I smelled this year-Ermano

Shalini Jardin Nocturne  (Maurice Roucel)– Surprisingly another oud themed perfume on my list. Maurice Roucel turns a night in Dubai into a lush woody floral symphony. The saffron is slightly medicinal and the jasmine blooms on my skin. Stunningly uncommon sensuality. -Ermano

Tiffany & Co. By Tiffany & Co. – It’s a less industrial, citrus brightened, fruity-iodine sparkling take on the Daniela Andrier signature musky iris for Prada. You will be wearing these five years from now-Ermano 

Vero Profumi NAJAThe return of Vero Kern, her 10th anniversary perfume is a serpentine beauty.  Like the snake itself, NAJA is filled with dualities. The snake is a symbol of rebirth and of healing as much as it is a symbol of evil. Osmanthus and tobacco, with a surprising prominent linden blossom note adds drops of honey instead of venom. Shamanic and mesmerizing.-Michelyn

 Disclosure: From our personal collection. We put together our Best ofs and Worst of Scent obviously from what we actually smelled during 2017 and what was released in 2017.

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For our Best of 2017 Draw open to all ÇaFleureBon registered  readers be sure to register or your comment won’t count. 

Worldwide: Courtesy of Maison Mona Di Orio 75 ml  Dojima

Worldwide: .25 ounces of Shalini Jardin Nocturne (worth $250)

USA, EU and Canada:  Masque Milano 35 ml of Times Square

Worldwide: 50 ml of Nuits de Bakelite

Worldwide: 50 ml of Grandiflora  Boronia

Worldwide: 100 ml of  Giovanna Antonelli 611 Extremo 

EU, USA and Canada: 30 ml of April Aromatics Pink Wood ALL NATURAL

Worldwide: 30 ml of  Gallivant Istanbul

To be eligible, please leave a comment with what you thought of our choices for Best of Scent by Emano and Michelyn. Ida, Robert, Gail, Lauryn and Danu will be posting their lists in the upcoming three days.  What were some of your favorites and least favorites from our list, where you live and as many of the 8 that are being offered.  Draw closes January 1, 2018

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS blog feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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103 comments

  • Elizabeth T. says:

    Love, love LOVE the eye candy in this list… all those bottles!!! I love the choice of Phoenix Botanicals… these scents are AMAZING. And I, too, was (I hate to admit it) disappointed by Gabrielle and Twilly. But lists like this always seem to double the length of my to-try list. I would be thrilled to win ANY of these, but at the top of my list would be Grandiflora Boronia, Giovanna Antonelli 611 Extremo 611 Intenso or Mona di Orio Dojima. Thank you for this article!

  • Really nice article. Really good choices, i agree especially on the best flanker guerlain petite robe noir black perfecto, a gourgeous bottle, also the annoying thing with the creed batches forums . I would choose gallivant istanbul then mona di orio dojima, but all of them sounds fantastic. Thanks for the draw, i live in the EU, happy holidays everybody!

  • What a post! Very interesting read. I too am enamoured with the Nuits de Bakelite – I wear bakelite a lot and the scent is certainly interesting.
    Though my biggest fave is DOJIMA. I must have this!!
    I also really really want Boronia – i have been wanting a boronia fragrance for so long!

    Please enter me for all the prize available worldwide:
    Dojima, Shalini Nocturne, Nuits de Bakelite, Boronia, 611 and Istanbul.

    I am in Melbourne Australia 🙂

  • Wow, so many things to think about. First let me say I agree with Dawn Spencer Hurwitz is an amazing perfumer. Becoming the Shaman is one of her amazing master pieces that I fell for hard. Second I do not agree with Gabrielle and Twilly being disappointing, as a matter of fact I find them very much wearable and enjoyable. There are so many fragrance lines out there that create perfume art but not wearable perfumes. And to me if I spend my hard earned money on perfume it must be wearable and appreciate by the people around me. So many beautiful bottles out there so its hard to choose but I can say that Parfums Micallef has some of the most beautiful bottles I have ever seen. Please enter me and I would be thrilled by any of the prizes offered.

  • Nice one on January Scent Project, got his whole range, very interesting scents. Pity about Nuit de Bakelite, it’s too green for me, Gabrielle and Twilly were underwhelming to me too.
    My choices are Dojima, Nocturne, 611 Extremo, and Boronia. I live in Singapore. Thanks for the draw

  • I don’t know how you keep up with all of the releases. I have really only smelled the mainstream offerings having received samples at Sephora and Nordstrom. I didn’t mind Twilly, and thought the bottle cute, although I get that it doesn’t have the elegance of most Hermes. I thought the Tiffany was quite wearable if not super interesting. Hope to have the opportunity to sniff more of the niche releases. I am most intrigued by Boronia, Nuits de Bakelite, Istanbul and Pink Wood. I am in the US.

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    I always love reading year end wrap ups. This year I didn’t make as many visits to New York as I usually do, which has limited my smelling, sadly. I definitely agree on a lot of fronts: DSH, whom I finally got the chance to visit in Boulder while on a trip to see my partner’s family, is truly a wonderful spirit with a whole lot of talent. Her Iris Gris scent with a philanthropic bent, Scent of Hope, is gorgeous and very close to the tiny bottle I once owned of this. As a bonus, sounds like she’s opening a little perfume museum out there soon. Wish I tried Nuit de Bakelite. Gabrielle was a disappointing bland white floral. I do, however, like Twilly. It feels like a less interesting Nuit de Tubereuse, so I get that it’s perhaps just a rehash of a “done” idea. Naja was a revelation to me! It’s so bizarre and wonderful–it starts off “Narcisse Noir” (dark orange blossom and rubber tires) and ends off “Le Male” (coumarinic oriental fougere)…one of the best of the year. Puredistance Warsaw to me tread similar ground to Antonia and Puredistance I–not as innovative as I would have hoped. If I were to win, I’d love to have Istabul, Boronia, Times Square, and Nocture. Thanks so much for the draw! I’m in the US.

  • I have been sampling like crazy this year and yet I have not tried a single one of this best scent list. Unbelievable! I have though, found a few new loves this year and more than a few “yucks”.
    The ones I would chose from the list are Shalini Nocturne, Grandiflora Boronia, and 611 Extremo. I live in the USA.

  • Love your list! I haven’t smelled any of the ones you mentioned. But one of my favorites from this year is the new release/version of Dior’s Miss Dior. It’s so much easier to wear. It’s very girly and slightly powdery. I absolutely love it.

    I’d choose:
    April Aromatics Pink Wood
    Gallivant Istanbul
    Nuits de Bakelite
    Giovanna Antonelli 611 Extremo 611 Intenso
    Grandiflora Boronia

    I live in the US

  • For me the worst or the most disappointing was Twilly d’Hermes. Both in terms of smell and bottle. It looks childish. I totally agree with Ermano. Now I am curious about Gabrielle from Chanel. It seems to be right there with Twilly lol . On the other hand, a nice surprise for me was the relase of Velvet Amber Skin from Dolce&Gabbana. It does not get much talk, but it’s a really nice balsamic leather.

    I am from Europe and If I were to win, my picks are: Dojima, Nuit de Bakelite, Times Square from Masque Milano and April Aromatics’ Pink Wood.

    Thank you!

  • Omg this is the most incredible list of niche and indie perfumes ever. I did buy Foxy and Le Smoking during Dsh sale. I have tried twilly, Tiffany, Gucci bloom, and Gabrielle and I guess I liked Tiffany and Twilly the best. I am fascinated by John Biebel because I only know he is with Fragrantica and didn’t know he was a perfumer. Parfumeurs de Monde group also is impressive. I think Michelyn is right about comforting scents with milky notes. I find that I have been wearing Serge Lutens Dent du lait
    I was at Twisted Lily earlier last month when I was on vacation and bought Gallivant Brooklyn but now I wish I bought the Istanbul. I will order a sample if I don’t win here. I am going to check out dedcool.
    Istanbul
    Times Square
    Mona Dojima
    Naomi Goodsir Bakélite
    Grandiflora Boronia
    Thank you for the chance
    I live in Los Angeles

  • A very interesting article. I’ haven’t tried enough of these choices to be able to comment intelligient;y I have really enjoyed Joh Beibel’s creations, however. If I were to win, i would like:
    April Aromatics Pink Wood
    Grandiflora Boronia
    Gallivant Istanbul
    Shalini Nocturne
    Nuits de Bakelite
    Giovanna Antonelli 611 Extremo
    Thank you for the draw. I live in the USA

  • Very interesting read and several points I agree with. First of all, fragrance brand owners who pretend to be perfumers also piss me off. Second, Molinard Les Amouteux de Peynet is really amazing concept, just the artwork on the bottle. I also like FM Superstitious and it has retro feel. Vero Kern, with Naja, has again proven herself to be a real artist. Gabrielle and Twily have been disappointing and I can never stomach the idea of fragrances from Kardashian clan. To my credit, I have never ever touched anything marketed by Kardashians, whether for their own brands or for someone else. Thanks for the generous draw. My choices will be:

    Masque Milano Times Square
    Naomi Goodsir Nuits de Bakelite
    Mona Di Orio Dojima
    Shalini Nocturne

    I am in the US.

  • What a good read…made me realise how many perfumes I HAVEN’T smelt this year!
    I’d like to enter for all the worldwide prizes:

    – Boronia, Istanbul, 611 Extreme, Dojima, Units de Bakelite, Shalini Nocturne
    Thanks
    Australia

  • I truly love your yearly retrospection. And I haven’t tried most of the new realeses. However I would be super curious to try/have the Shalini Nocturne most of all but wiuld be thrilled as well for Istanbul, Boronia, Pink Wood and 611!
    My 2017 awards go for:
    Elisire – brand discovery of the year and Poudre Desir best lipstick perfume
    Morning Chess by Vilhelm Perfumerie – best galbanum take and the best bottle design in decades!
    Amouage Lyric Woman – oldie but goodie! Fallen all over for it again!
    Au Dela Narcisse by Bruno Fazzalori – one of the best narcisse interpretations I have come across!

    Thank you!

    My best
    Naz

  • Frankly I haven’t smelled the ones on your best list, except Istanbul which I had the chance to try, and I’m quite impressed. I have a sample set of January Scent Project still on its way to me, and I can’t wait to smell them. I’ve heard so many good things about them. Thanks for the draw, and I’d love Istanbul or Boronia. I live in EU.

  • I am amazed to know the number of new releases and the work your noses had in 2017!! The approach to the best is great, not just a list, becouse it has so many facets of any perfum you review.

    Thanks for the bountiful draw, it is a dream made true. My choices ( I live in Spain, EU) will be:

    Times Square from Masque Milano
    Boronia
    Gallivant Istanbul
    Nuit de Bakelite

    Happy 2018

    Alberto

  • Chocolate Marzipan says:

    Thank you, Michelyn and Ermano for this extensive list and for testing so many perfumes this year! It has made me realize how little I have sampled in terms of new releases as Black Perfecto and Gabrielle are the only two I have tried from your list. I have literally been dreaming about owning a Mona Di Orio bottle so Dojima would most definitely be my top pick should I be so fortunate as to win this draw.
    I reside in the USA.

  • Always a joy to read about the best perfumes of the year. I find the picks wonderful, although I must confess that I did not test everything. But for the ones I do know I totally agree with the findings. I would be happy with every single fragrance from the draw. I’m in EU, the Netherlands. Thank you for this awesome draw!

  • Finally here the inevitable, awaited and very welcome appointment with your choices for the best of 2017. Their consultation is always pleasant and informative. I agree with many of your choices, unfortunately I do not know all the fragrances you have selected, but I certainly agree in toto about your considerations on Luca Maffei, Vero Kern and Yann Yasnier. Among your nominations, my preferences go to Boronia and Naja.
    My choices into the draw are:
    Grandiflora Boronia
    Mona Di Orio Dojima
    Masque Milano Times Square
    Gallivant Istanbul
    I live in EU
    thanks for the gorgeous draw!

  • First it was the photos of Michelyn in that dress with Yann Vasnier that got my attention ha ha. I agree with many of your selections including Yann Vasnier, vero kern, and mood satin oud by mfk. I was really let down by EDLO you and someone like you with Chandler Burr and also Chanel Gabrielle. The Guerlain LPRN black perfecto was great and I bought a bottle. Twilly was good for what it is and I think the bottle is nice. Since I am not a big fan of tuberoses I would love to win Shalini Jardin nocturne, Grandiflora Boronia and gallivant Istanbul. I live in the EU

  • Excellent reviews!! I quite agree with most, it has been a year of great releases and some extremely boring ones! Sarah is my choice as well as best indie perfumer and Yann has been one my favourite perfumers for years! The Grandiflora range is one of the best and I really enjoyed the Gallivant perfumes as well. I’m looking forward to the other reviews too!!
    All the prizes are fantastic but my favourites are:
    Masque Milano Times Square
    Naomi Goodsir Nuits de Bakelite
    Mona Di Orio Dojima
    Shalini Nocturne

    Happy New Year!!

  • I haven’t experienced a single fragrance on the list. It was still an interesting and informative read. I’d like to join the draw just the same. Thank you. USA

    – 30 ml of Gallivant Istanbul
    – Mona Di Orio Dojima
    – Grandiflora Boronia
    – Masque Milano Times Square

  • No need to enter me, just wanted to say thanks for your hard work in putting this post together; so comprehensive

    There are entire houses I haven’t sampled yet! I have yet to try a Masque Milano, haven’t tried any of the Naomi Goodsirs, or Grandifloras or Hiram Greens. It’s definitely overwhelming trying to keep up! I think Naja is the one I am most curious about.

    And I wholeheartedly agree about Gabrielle. Everything about the concept was brilliant, but I found the fragrance itself average at best. I even thought the bottle was somewhat jarring against the rest of the line, although pretty enough on its own.

  • I have been testing a lot, but not 300 fragrances for sure, that is crazy – sounds like you are testing a new scent every day, so it means – only a few days left for the fragrances you already own!!!
    Unfortunately here we don’t have those fragrances mentionned in your list. My favorite 2017 releases: Panda 2017 Zoologist and Nirmala/Reve Nirmala Molinard. The most annoying were the tuberose battles (I wote for Twilly as being the worst and Prada – the best).
    But the biggest discovery this year for me was the CAFLEUREBON site, so much information and amazing draws!

    I am from EU and I would be very very excited to win any of these:
    – Grandiflora  Boronia,
    – April Aromatics Pink Wood,
    – Masque Milano Times Square,
    – Gallivant Istanbul.
    Thank you!!

  • Beautiful article! Honestly, I had not chance to try any new perfume this year. In my town have not any place where could be able to trying perfumes unfortunately. But I think that your lists are very correct. Because, I sure of it that you have wonderful taste of fragrances. I live in Europe. And I would be very glad if I could win any of these:
    – Maison Mona Di Orio 75 ml Dojima
    – 25 ounces of Shalini Nocturne
    – Masque Milano 35 ml of Times Square
    – 50 ml of Nuits de Bakelite
    – 50 ml of Grandiflora Boronia
    – 100 ml of Giovanna Antonelli 611 Extremo 611 Intenso
    – 30 ml of April Aromatics Pink Wood
    – 30 ml of Gallivant Istanbul

    Thank You very much!

  • Well, you’ve given us all a lot of food for thought 🙂 I have no idea how you keep up with the new launches. Michelin, both your black dresses are amazing 🙂
    I live in Canada, and would really love to try :
    Nuit de Bakelite
    Grandiflora Boronia
    A.A. Pink Wood
    Shalini
    Masque Milano
    Dojima
    Thank you for your reviews-they bring so much pleasure to us, your readers. Thank you for describing things in such detail it’s almost as good as smelling it. Happy New Year to all of you.
    Sincerely,
    Carole

  • I agree about too many perfumes this year. I have a wish list a mile long
    and not many are available in my country, but I did buy Boronia. I live in Australia and would love to win Nuit de Bakelite, April Aromatics Pink Wood,
    Mona Di Orio Dojima

  • Always a pleasure to read Ermano & Michelyn suggestions!
    With some of them I totally agree (Gattopardo, Abel, Nuit de Bakelite, Naja), some of them I don’t know yet.
    I live in Italy, and I’d like to receive Pink Wood, Istanbul, Shalini Nocturne.
    Thanks for the draw!

  • Awesome job as always! I have just ordered Mona Di Orio Dojima, the rice accord smells amazing.
    I would love to try: Masque Milano Times Square or Nuits de Bakelite by Naomi Goodsir. Thank you for the chance! I live in Europe

  • Enjoy reading these best/worst lists. I was extremely amazed at how many fragrances were smelled during the year. Wow! It must be dizzying after a while. I enjoy the new Tiffany fragrance, I’d love to try some of the others that were listed. I thought Chanel Gabrielle was OK but nothing super special, although better than most of the recent releases by that house in my opinion. I also enjoyed Hermes Twilly – it was different which was fun. I’m looking forward to the next best/worst lists coming up. If I’m lucky to win, below are my choices. I’m in US and registered.

    Shalini Nocturne
    Instanbul Gallivant
    Nuits de Bakelite
    Grandiflora Boronia
    April Aromatics Pink Wood

  • I love reading these lists, even if I don’t always agree.
    Naja is an absolutely wonderful scent – glad to see others enjoy it too.

    I would love to win Nuits de Bakelite – I live in Canada.
    Thank you for the contest and the list – I have a few new lemmings.

  • The breathtaking Shalini Jardin Nocturne Lalique Tourbillons flacon and the new Tiffany bottle are among my favorites. I would hardly dare to touch the first one, while the second one begs to be held. The Tiffany bottle feels good in the hand and produces a beautiful spray of fragrance.

    I’ve made a promise to myself not to buy bottles unsniffed, but Les Amoureux de Peynet tests my willpower. The bottle is definitely a best of the year, and I love the cologne style of scent. The ginger note holds me back. I do like ginger, but I did not like it in Twilly.

    The war of the tuberoses has been interesting. Twilly does not agree with my nose, though I liked the scarf and peculiar cap on that un-Hermes bottle. The 30 ml bottle is particularly adorable. Conversely, Gucci Bloom’s bottle underwhelms while I enjoy the scent very much. I hope they do a very different bottle with the same juice.

    I have loved tuberose since I first wore Oscar decades ago. The recent tuberose scents reignited my interest in this note, and a chance sampling of Luci ed Ombre from Masque Milano fanned the flames. I would very much like to experience Nuit de Bakelite. Also Pink Wood, Grandiflora Boronia, and Shalini appeal to me as must-sniff scents for 2017. I am in the US.

    Thank you to Michelyn and Ermano for sharing their wide-ranging and insightful views of the perfumed landscape. Many thanks to the generous sponsors of the draw, and to CaFleureBon as well for the fragrant fun each day of the year.

  • I guess Emano and Michelyn know their thing and the choices of Best of Scent were accurate. As far I am concerned, I smelled none of the scents featured in this article, so I cannot comment on any of them.
    I would love to win:
    – Nuit de Bakélite by Naomi Goodsir
    – Dõjima by Mona di Orio
    – Boronia by Grandiflora
    and the rest, if that is posible 🙂
    I live in the E.U. Thank you for this draw.

  • I can’t comment on the Best list because I haven’t tried any yet! Soon. 🙂 I agree with the choices of Twilly and Gabrielle as dissapointments. I keep reading positive reviews of them but they just seem really safe and boooring. One of my favorite things about these types of lists is that it always introduces me to perfumers and scents that I never heard of, so I happily read through it with google and fragrantica open in other tabs to search. Ananda Tchai sounds lovely, I love chai scents.

    For the draw, I’m in the USA and my choices are:

    Dojima
    Pink Wood
    Boronia
    Nuit de Bakelite

  • Not sure what to do with all this information about these new fragrance creations… Some are as it seems wonderful scents and some would fall under “what were you thinking”. January Scent Project from John Biebel really caught my eye… as well as Molinard Les Amouteux de Peynet being the best bang for the buck comment. I can only dream of trying these new fragrances! A few scents that are to my liking from your list would be: 50 ml of Grandiflora Boronia & Shalini Nocturne & Gallivant Istanbul. I do live in the US and THANK YOU!

  • I had fun reading these reviews, what a treat! I’ve not had the chance to smell any of these so I just enjoyed them vicariously through your descriptions.

    My word, what a lovely and generous draw – I’d be thrilled with any of these. Thanks and Happy New Year! (US)

  • It’s an interesting list, though I wonder at the ultra-expensive perfumes: are they really worth their prices? But lots of them sound excellent, including Naja, Jardin Nocturne, Dojima, Boronia. Imlive in the US.

  • Most of the fragrances I have not tired, but I did buy my wife Tiffany because it was a good price, but it didn't look like that one. I would like to try Mona Di Orio Dojima, Times Square and Boronia as I really like Bertrand Duchaufour US

  • Wow, what a fun read!! I’ve probably sampled 200 fragrances this year between my Luckyscent obsession and a spin through NYC at Sniffapalooza in October, not to mention April in Grasse with Victoria Frolovo’s workshop, where we met Michel R. and smelled a perfume he was finalizing, probably of which you speak! I really like the Gallivant line and came home with samples of London and Amsterdam. I don’t think I smelled Istanbul though. I have samples of Mona’s Suede and Dojima – both are beautiful. Also binged on several samples of Vero including the gorgeous Naja. I actually like Twilly including the bottle. I got a mini bottle when buying for my daughter. But I’m loving the tuberose trend! I would love to win any of these! I live in Missouri.
    – Maison Mona Di Orio 75 ml Dojima
    – 25 ounces of Shalini Nocturne
    – 50 ml of Nuits de Bakelite
    – 50 ml of Grandiflora Boronia
    – 100 ml of Giovanna Antonelli 611 Extremo 611 Intenso
    – 30 ml of April Aromatics Pink Wood
    – 30 ml of Gallivant Istanbul

    Thanks for the draw!

  • I only know Nuit de Bakélite from the chosen perfumes list (and of course Twilly and Gabrielle, but so disappointed by these ones…).

    According to my tastes, my choices would be, if I win :

    1- Giovanna Antonelli – 611 Extremo
    2- Naomi Goodsir – Nuit de Bakélite
    3- Mona Di Orio – Dojima
    4- Grandiflora – Boronia
    5- Shalini – Jardin Nocturne
    6- Masque Milano – Times Square
    7- April Aromatics – Pink Wood
    8- Gallivant – Istanbul

    I live in Europe. Thank you very much!

  • A very thorough accounting of this year’s releases, thank you. It’s rather astonishing how many hundreds of fragrances you both tested this year.

    My most unexpected favorite from 2017 is Prada La Femme Intense. It should have been just a flanker and instead it’s the patchouli perfume of my dreams.

    I’m in the USA and my most desired are:

    Mona Di Orio Dojima
    Naomi Goodsir Nuits de Bakelite
    Grandiflora Boronia
    Giovanna Antonelli 611 Extremo 611 Intenso
    April Aromatics Pink Wood

  • Mirjam Bayer says:

    I Love reading best of lists and this Was a great read. For me there is No doubt that it was Naja who was this years brightest shining star. I loved a few other scents this year but they were all old friends. Cant wait to see what vero does next

  • Very informative best list!
    I like the MFK oud satin mood standard version, maybe I’ll like most the Extrait.
    Many house I like exit good releases; like MFK, Naomi Goodsir, Vero profumo, Masque Milano, etc
    I discover in this list Shalini Jardin Nocturne and Grandiflora Boronia who seems very interesting!

    I live in Canada and I am interested in almost all
    Shalini Jardin Nocturne
    Grandiflora Boronia
    Nuits de Bakelite
    Time Square
    Istanbul

  • I don’t know many fragrances from the list, except the popular ones like Twilly and Gabrielle, which are mass-marketed and readily available to try at any store and at any given hour. I think I kept myself away this year from experimenting new and interesting fragrances. I find both Twilly and Gabrielle to be some okayish creations, but not something you would expect from giants like Hermes and Chanel.

    My picks are: Boronia, Times Square and/or Pink Wood if I were to win.

    I live in EU. Thanks for the draw!

  • Easy choice for me Fucking Fabulous by Tom Ford was my favorite for the year. The name and the fragrance worked for me. Having a strong name gets lots of hate but I feel it was well worth the try and it held it’s own for me.

    Giovanna Antonelli 611 Extremo
    Grandiflora Boronia
    Maison Mona Di Orio Dojima
    Nuits de Bakelite

    Thanks and Happy New Year, I live in the US

  • I found truly amazing the new perfume by Tom Ford Fucking Fabulous and I was disappointed by Twilly from Hermes and Gabrielle from Chanel house.
    I agree about the new bottle from Tiffany house and I also liked the Molinard Les Amouteux de Peynet, with beautiful citrus cologne, amazing bottle, nice price as Michelyn and Ermano mentioned.
    My picks:
    Mona Di Orio Dojima
    Giovanna Antonelli 611 Extremo 611 Intenso
    April Aromatics Pink Wood
    Naomi Goodsir Nuits de Bakelite
    Masque Milano 35 ml of Times Square
    Grandiflora Boronia

    Happy New Year to all the Cafleurebon contributors.
    I live in EU.

  • I don’t recognize some and know quite a few others. The parfumeurs du Monde project sounds especially wonderful. Mostly it’s a very niche list and I am new to niche perfumes. A lot of work must have been put into this and it shows
    Shalini
    Mona di orio Dojima
    Nuit de Bakélite
    Pink wood
    Boronia
    Masque Milano
    611 intensitie
    USA

  • I have been sampling like perfume-hungry person this year, because I have been new costumer of new niche perfume big shop which have big essortiment. But yet I have not tried a single one of this best scent list and worst sent, for example Twilky Hermes!!!
    My favorite from this year is MFK Baccarat Rouge 540 extrait de parfum, dissapoitmnent-Chanel Gabrielle.
    My picks:
    Mona Di Orio Dojima
    Grandiflora Boronia
    Masque Milano
    USA

  • I really enjoy these lists and look forward to them every year! I would pick to win:
    Shalini Jardins Nocturne
    Grandiflora Baronia
    Nuits de Bakelite

    Thank you for the list and the draw! USA

  • I have only sampled one of the fragrances on this list and that is Nuit de Bakelite which I love because I love tuberose! I’d choose Nuit de Bakelite, Grandiflora Boronia Shalini Nocturne or Masque Milano. Thank you for this beautiful drawing! I’m in the US.

  • Great list! One of my favorites this year is Olfactive Studio Close Up. Love at first sniff!

    I really need to get my nose on Masque Milano Times Square or Naomi Goodsir Nuits de Bakelite. Thank you for the draw! I live in Europe

  • Thanks for the lists–I love catching up on what I’ve missed over the year. I haven’t tried a lot of these yet, except for Nuit de Bakelite which I just haven’t made my mind up about yet. I’ve got lots of samples on the way though–most excited about January Scent Project! Very affordable and generous sample set.
    I’ve been more interested in natural perfume options, so Parfumeurs du Monde and April Aromatics are also a curosity.

    I would be happy to win:
    Shalini Jardin Nocturne
    April Aromatics Pink Wood
    Grandiflora Boronia

    I am in the USA, thanks and Happy New Year!

  • Interesting and eclectic list! I haven’t tried any of them but I’m struck by how much names and bottles influence me. Still laughing about the Twilly -Mr. Potatohead. Have to say the name and bottle put me off even though the notes are favourites. Nuit de Bakelite, again, bizarre name but it sounds so interesting I want to try it anyway and the bottle is fine. Gattopardo, I love the name and really want to like it but the notes suggest I probably wouldn’t…might try anyway.
    Shalini’s Jardin Nocturne in the Lalique Turbillons flacon? Love every aspect of that(except the pricetag 😉

    My picks for the contest would be:
    611 Extremo
    Nuit de Bakelite
    Jardin Nocturne

    I’m in Canada

  • StellaDiverFlynn says:

    Thank you for this great list! Many interesting categories to be pondered this year. Among the best of 2017, Nuit de Bakélite and Naja are also my favourites, but I’m quite disappointed by the new releases from Masque and Mona di Orio. I still haven’t made my mind about Grandiflora Boronia, but it sure is interesting! Especially the tobacco dry down.

    I live in France, and my picks for the contest would be:

    April Aromatics Pink Wood
    Shalini Jardin Nocturne
    Gallivant Istanbul
    Grandiflora Boronia

  • I died laughing at Michelyn’s description of the Twilly de Hermes as related to Mr. Potato Head. I don’t mind the juice but I thought the same thing! I agree with all the praise for Nuit de Bakelite, although to my chagrin it smelled much better on the blotter than it did on my skin. I will have to try my sample again though. I’m new in my perfume obsession and didn’t get to try many of this list, but I look forward to trying more.

    I live in Canada, and would be thrilled with any of the following:

    Maison Mona di Orio Dojima
    .25 Ounces of Shalini Jardin Nocturne
    Masque Milano Times Square
    Nuit de Bakelite
    Grandifloria Boronia
    April Aromatics Pink Wood
    Gallivant Istanbul

  • Another great list! And, such a lot of work! My picks should I win this draw, would be:
    April Aromatics Pink Wood
    Shalini Jardin Nocturne
    Grandiflora Boronia
    I live in the US.

  • Gosh, it really is getting harder and harder to keep track of all the new releases. I don’t have many thoughts on the perfumes on this list because I’ve only sampled Dojima (it was a like but not a love), but that Shalini flacon is gorgeous. I’m in the US and would be happy to win any of them, but my top choices would be Shalini Jardin Nocturne, Galivant Istanbul, or Nuit de Bakelite. Thanks!

  • oldandsmelly says:

    What a great list, all such beautiful bottles. I was surprised to not see Papillon Dryad on the list but there are so many choices. Im in the US and I would be happy with any of them but my first choices would be Nuit de Bakelite or Grandiflora Boronia

  • I love that the list includes affordable and expensive perfumes. Unfortunately I haven’t try any in the list so I can’t say which are my favorites or worst perfumes.

    I live in Malaysia and please enter me for Dojima, Shalini Nocturne, Nuits de Bakelite, Boronia, 611 and Istanbul. Thank you.

  • Oh Michelyn, how I LOVED it when you said “For me, the worst offense is when owners and creative directors stand next to a perfume organ and say they are the perfumer for their line when indeed they are not.” I couldn’t after with that any more. The one favorite that I did manage to try was one of Ermano’s favorites, Roja UAE. I LOVE THAT SCENT. As far as least favorite, I hadn’t tried much from this list otherwise so I would be unfair of me to list something unfavorably that I haven’t tried. I live in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. USA
    CHOICE:
    Gallivant Istanbul

  • Some really good pics and OMG at Luca Maffei who made more than 20 new perfumes, that is some achivement. I do agree that Twilly was a let down, but there are plenty other to chose from out there.
    I live in the EU and I would like to win:
    Maison Mona Di Orio 75 ml Dojima
    Masque Milano 35 ml of Times Square
    Nuits de Bakelite
    Grandiflora Boronia
    Giovanna Antonelli 611 Extremo 611 Intenso

  • There are so many that i haven’t tried that I am a bit overwhelmed with all this new releases. Puredistance Warszawa is one I would almost blind buy, but that price…I do wish to test a few of the ones in the lists based on the brand/perfumer. Thanks for the draw and I would like to win Maison Mona Di Orio 75 ml Dojima, Giovanna Antonelli 611 Extremo 611 Intenso, Masque Milano 35 ml of Times Square or Nuits de Bakelite.

  • Wow, what an amazing list! The only one I’ve tried so far is the new Tiffany fragrance, which was a surprise gift for Christmas, and it really is lovely. Thank you for doing another draw; I would be delighted with any of these:

    – Maison Mona Di Orio 75 ml Dojima
    – 25 ounces of Shalini Nocturne
    – Masque Milano 35 ml of Times Square
    – 50 ml of Nuits de Bakelite
    – 50 ml of Grandiflora Boronia
    – 100 ml of Giovanna Antonelli 611 Extremo 611 Intenso
    – 30 ml of April Aromatics Pink Wood
    – 30 ml of Gallivant Istanbul

  • I love that you do these best-of-the-year lists so much more thoroughly and uniquely than anywhere else; I wait all December for them! It gives a great overview of what’s happened all year, which is usually so much that I couldn’t possibly keep track of it all, so I’m grateful to have Cafleurebon do it for me. It’s a terrific reference! Of the above, I would love to get my hands on the Dojima, the Nuit de Bakelite, the Istanbul, or the Pink Wood. Thank you for the awesome round-up, I live in Canada.

  • Thank you for this good coverage and overview of 2017. What pleases me the most is that you manage to include personal favorites as well as lesser known brands in your coverage. I agree that Luca Maffei was the hardest working man this year, so many perfumes, almost too many. I really enjoyed his offering for Jacques Fath. The new Fath’s Essentials are his four seasons in perfumery. I enjoyed L’Orée du Bois most, followed by Lilas Exquis. The expertise of Yann Vasnier is shown once again. His Jo Malone creations are truly worth to try, especially since they won’t last long in the roster of the brand. As I love tuberose and gardenia the most as floral notes in perfumes, I’m very glad to see a war of tuberoses. While it is true that the majority of them smell alike, there are still some approaching different aspects, more greenerey (like Nuit de Bakélite, although it was too green for me), more freshness. I love to be able to pick the one fitting me best. I tested a few of course and was really fond of Rosso Epicureo, but my favorite Tuberose so far is Tubéreuse Hédonie by Roger & Gallet. It is so tender, fragile and pastell. Wonderful inexpensive fragrance to wear. Also looking out for Oriflame’s Sublime Nature series. And the article made me curious about Giovanna Antonelli’s tuberose scent.
    Finally I could not agree more on the Kardashian drama. This woman will find a way to make money out of everything and it became really hypocritical by now. I liked her Pure Honey scent, but I won’t support this anymore. Enough is enough.

    Anther personal highlights of mine not mentioned above are the new scents by Zoologist. Dragonfly made its way right into my collection and Elephant and Camel are once again on-point interpretations of the namesake animals.

    I am from Germany and I hope to win either (in order of choice):
    – Masque Milano 35 ml Times Square
    – Giovanna Antonelli 100 ml 611 Extremo
    – Grandiflora 50 ml Boronia

    Thank you for the draw and keep up the good work in 2018

  • Tom Schroeder says:

    I very much enjoyed the in-depth reviews of these fragrances over the past year. I like Gallivant Istanbul, and also Gallivant Brooklyn, which was not mentioned. Grandiflora Boronia and Shalini Jardin Nocturne sound wonderful as does Dojima. I live in California, USA.

  • I really enjoyed this article. It is so interested which perfumes are best or worst in 2017 for perfume-esthetes Emano and Michelyn. From list my favorite is Frederic Malle Alber Ebaz Superstitious- great retro perfume!!!
    I would like to win:
    Maison Mona Di Orio 75 ml Dojima
    Grandiflora Boronia
    Gallivant Istanbul 30 ml
    from Armenia

  • I agree that twilly is horrible Bottle but I liked the perfume more than Gabrielle. I have been reading all the posts around and you guys really did an amazing job. It’s interesting so many blogs had similar opinions
    But didn’t go in this type of detail
    I really would love to win Dojima, Naomi Goodsir nuit de Bakélite and masque Milano Times Square
    I thought cire trudon was a great pick although I liked Bruma but sorry that I didn’t see frenchy by Guerlain on the list

  • I’ve only been able to try Nuit de Bakelite and Naja from the list and both didn’t work for me but I do admire their artistry. I would be overjoyed to win either Times Square, Dojima, or Boronia as I’ve enjoyed other perfumes from those houses very much. I am in the U.S. Thank you much!

  • Omg! Contre Bombarde should be, hands down, the perfum of the year for its extraordinary richness of incense. Makes me feel like a sheik, tsar king of an empire! Very mysterious and exotic. Just like a masterful perfum should be made. To intrigue our smelling sense and travel to our 6th sense of imagination and fantasia.

  • Love these lists! Such fun to read, too bad I couldn’t smell them all. Love that rhubarb is more abundant in fragrance. My Mom cooked a lot of rhubarb desserts and i loved them all. I thought the Twilly bottle was different, my Dad wears a Derby hat sometimes, so I didn’t mind it at all. The fragrance was better than I was expecting since I believe it was marketed toward a younger generation than myself. I have the Nuit De Bakelite and I love it. Two people have commented nearby me that they smell jalapeno’s or chile. I don’t pick that out, but interesting that it’s been noted twice by the same person and once by another. I am curious if anyone else has had that reaction. I would love to win anything from the list (except the Nuit de Bakelite, I think my bottle will last a long time – it is a powerhouse). Thanks for the great read! I live in the US.

  • What a list! I too loved Grandiflora’s Boronia and Naomi Goodsir’s Nuit fr Bakelite… I’m so proud to be Australian haha. But they really were such a unique breath of fresh air amongst the monotony of redundant fragrances releases. There’s a lot to filter through but as your list shows, there’s still a lot of good stuff out there! Idyllwild is the only bottle Ive bought on your list so far which is something special as I typically don’t enjoy the aromatic fougere genre all that much but was so refreshing and modern in its approach.

    Amazing draw! I would be absolutely over the moon to win any of:
    Grandiflora – Boronia
    Naomi Goodsir – Nuit de Bakelite
    Mona Di Orio – Dojima
    Gallivant – Istanbul

    I’m from Sydney Australia and thanks for an amazing year!

  • james weaver says:

    Unfortunately I haven’t smelt any of these fragrances yet, so I can’t comment on the fragrances. A intriguing read and I very much enjoyed the in-depth reviews of these fragrances over the past year
    I would enjoy winning the following
    Maison Mona Di Orio Dojima
    Gallivant Istanbul
    Masque Milano Times Square
    USA resident

  • I agree with Ermano a lot was very boring. I loved the Gucci ad too. Mister potato head it looks like it now that you mention. I was at ZGO in San Fran and tried the Le Cri de la lumiere and it was gorgeous. I am
    Dying for Naja too. I didn’t know that nick steward as with LArtisan so that explains why I like tel Aviv and Brooklyn . Istanbul wasn’t my favorite but it’s nice
    I would love to win Dojima Times Square Nuit de Bakélite made a few blog lists

  • ChanteusedesIles says:

    I have arrived at this a little backwards from the other Lists! But it gives a interesting perspective to see where there is consensus! I was excited to see tuberose as a trend this year because I love it so much, but I didn’t have to test so many of them! I definitely want to try more Mona di Orio as that house seems to have high praise and also the Naomi Goodsir and Shalini. These are all new to me, but I would be thrilled to win:
    Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakelite
    Shalini Jardin Nocturne
    Mona di Orio Dojima
    Grandiflora Boronia
    Gallivant Istanbul
    I live in Canada, Thank you for this amazing contest and all your beautiful reviews!

  • It never ceases to amaze me the amount of thinking and writing you (all) do for the end-of-year roundu ps! I admit, I often refer back to them as the new year progresses. I haven’t smelled very many of this year’s scents, but I was impresses with Naja. I’m pleased to see rhubarb mentioned: my quest for a rhubarb that works on me continues. (I finally found a fig that I love in Jo Loves Red Truffle 21!) While I’d love to win any of these scents, my top choices in order are: Pink Wood, Dojima, Nuit de Bakelite, Boronia, Istanbul, Jardin Nocturne. Thanks for the draw — I live in the USA!

  • That’s great to have such insight and guides to these perfumes that I would never have a chance to smell given how many releases there are in a year. My favorites are Gallivant Istanbul, Mona Di Orio Dojima, Shalini Jardin Nocturne and Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakelite. I live in the US. Thanks!

  • It’s so good to see La Petite Robe Noir Black Perfect as the best flanker. It’s my favorite in 2017. I live in Europe and my choices are: Masque Milano Times Square, Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakelite or Mona Di Orio Dojima. Thanks for the draw!

  • It was great to see Sarah McCartney recognized as she is a mega talent. Also John Biebel of January Scent. Certainly this was the best of all the blog lists , so much detail. I live in the EU and would love Boronia, Masque Milano Times Square, Giovanna Antonellie 611 Intenso, Shalini Hjardin NocturneNaomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakelite or Mona Di Orio Dojima.

  • I love that it looks as tho these were chosen because of the Artisty and brilliance of each of your choices. Great list and as always something learned from these fabulous posts. I would love MDO Dojima. May the New Year bring to us via CaFleureBon much more knowledge from the worlds of Perfumery and Beauty. I am in the US

  • The Tiffany & Co. bottle looks really beautiful! I can’t stop reading about Nuit de Bakeliteand I am telling myself that I really need to put my nose on it.

    I would love to try:
    Nuit de Bakelite
    Masque Milano Times Square
    April Aromatics Pink Wood

    Happy New Year! US reader

  • Thanks for the round-up. I haven’t been able to stretch to any really good perfume this year, but hopefully that won’t be the case for long, and you’ve just inspired me to choose myself a set of samples from one of the perfumers here mentioned – just making up my mind between Mandy Aftel, Tanja Bochnig and Irina Adams.

    I’d love to win April Aromatics’ Pink Wood. I live in the EU.
    Thanks for the draw, and happy new year to all at Cafleurebon.

  • What a great article and an amazing draw! I haven’t had a chance to try any of them and would be happy to call one of them my own. I am in EU:
    Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakelite
    Grandiflora Boronia
    Gallivant Istanbul
    Mona di Orio Dojima
    Masque Milano Times Square

  • What a Great article and lots of beautiful fragrances. Most I haven’t tried
    And many o would like to. Thanks for taking the time and thanks for the giveaway. I would really like Gallivant Istanbul, Nuit de Bakelite, Pink Wood. Thanks and Happy New Year
    From California

  • I would love to win any – really! especially the Micallef, Masque Milano or the April Aromatics! I agree with the choices, except the Nuit de Bakelite really did not agree with my chemistry 🙁 I loved also this year: Renier Perfumes Kisses Rain, Narsico Rodriguez Santal Musc and Jo Malone Green Almond & Redcurrant. I live in Maryland USA!

  • Curious as to the Dedcool recommendation to blind buy I have tried nowhere near all of these scents, only a few. I agree with being disappointed with Tilly and Gabrielle. Based on the notes I thought they both would work with my body chemistry but did not. LOVE LOVE LOVE Ineke's Idyllwild. I wore for weeks on end in fall, and still use about once a week. I so enjoy reading reviews on here and have made a list of several to sample when I travel, or to outright purchase. Thank you for ALL the hard work everyone puts into this site and the reviews, and the sponsors for the giveaways. I appreciate the effort and am sure everyone else does as well. Hope everyone has a fantastic 2018! I'm in the US – my choices in no particular order, if I won, would be (but honestly would be very excited to be chosen for any of them): Maison Mona Di Orio Dojima Shalini Jardin Nocturne Nuits de Bakelite Giovanna Antonelli 611 Extremo 611 Intenso April Aromatics Pink Wood Gallivant Istanbul

  • Love the annual ‘best of’ lists. I have to say I concur on the disappointing Gabrielle and Twilly…two that I really looked forward to. There are a lot that I am now feeling pulled to try that I thought I’d happily pass on sampling. If I would happen to win a draw, I would love Dojima, Shalini Jardin Nocturne, Gallivant Istanbul or any of the others I would qualify for. I am in the US. Thank you for the chance!

  • That image of Lucy and Ethel is quite apt!
    But you guys made it through, and put out so many reviews!
    Thank you all.

    I guess having few expectations led to few disappointments for me, but I am pretty out of the loop scentwise, barely reading or sampling, but I did order a few teensy Areej le Dore samples and gotta say I am very happy that I did. A little surprised no musk-a-holics mentioned those.

    It’s fascinating to learn about the whole oeuvre of perfumers, rather than brands. And it it heartening to learn about Parfumeurs du Monde.

    That review of the Twilly bottle is spot-on and hilarious!
    Naja sounds mesmerizing indeed, and Dojima sounds fascinating also.

    USA
    Thank you for all the draws!
    top choices:
    Dojima
    Grandiflora Boronia
    Nuit de Bakelite
    Shalini Jardin Nocturne

    Pink Wood
    611 Extremo
    Times Square

  • I love many of your choices. As usual, I haven’t tried many of the perfumes that are among your favorites. There are so many new perfumes every year, and it is almost impossible to try each of them. I am with you on Dawn Spencer Hurwitz as the most passionate perfumer. Although I haven’t experienced her last creations, I love and appreciate all Dawn’s perfumes I know, and I am amazed at her passion and creativity. Grandiflora’s Boronia is amazing. I got a chance to try it thanks to the wonderful friend who was at Pitti exhibition. Naja is, maybe, the best Vero Kern’s perfume. Her perfumes are always among my most desired perfumes. How could I forget a charm of Mito or remarkable beauty of Onda Extrait? Pink Wood is Tanja’s newest jewel, I love and enjoy it so much. It provides me the most desirable feeling and compliments from my colleagues. Tanja created my perfume, as a part of one of Cafleurebon’s workshops. It was the beginning of the beautiful friendship. She’ll always be among my favorite perfumers. I wear Yann Vashnier’s Blondine for Frassaï often. Love it, and enjoy other two Frassaï’s perfumes, Verano Porteño (Rodrigo Flores-Roux), and Tian Di (Olivier Gillotin). They are beautiful, wearable fragrances. I am happy that they work for me in the best way. Mandy Aftel in Hall of Fame is a great decision. Of course, I agree with every word that honors Mandy and her art. I am very interested in Michele Bianchi perfumes, but I have not tried them. I’ll give you some of my favorites in my last comment on Best of 2017 series. I’d love to win Dõjima, Boronia, Jardin Nocturne, Nuit de Bakelite, 611 Extremo, Istanbul, Time Square or Pink Wood. I am in Croatia. Thank you.

  • I really need to get my nose on Le Cri, since Parfum d’Empire is one of my absolute favorite houses. From this Best Of list, the 2 that have piqued my interest are:

    Times Square
    Nuits de Bakelite

    I’m in the USA.

  • Hi first thank you for amazing giveaway cafleurebon ! Some amazinging pics by everyone really solid choices, out of the bunch Roja United Arab Emirates which Ermano loved is fantastic as well as Oud Satin Mood Extrait ,my partners fav.

    Out of the bunch I’d love to win in following order
    —————————————–
    75 ml Mona di orio Dojima
    30 ml of Gallivant Istanbul
    30 ml of April Aromatics Pink Wood
    100 ml of Giovanna Antonelli 611 Extremo
    50 ml of Nuits de Bakelite
    50 ml of Grandiflora Boronia
    35 ml of Times Square
    .25 ounces of Shalini Jardin Nocturne

    Im in canada,again thanks for generous giveaway ,And HAPPY NEW YEAR !

  • Happy New Year. What an amazing giveaway. It’s always interesting to read how others interpret different fragrances. Molinard Les Amouteux de Peynet sounds like an interesting gem worth checking out.

    I am interested in the following:

    Shalini Jardin Nocturne
    Times Square by Masque Milano
    Grandiflora Bornia
    Gallivant Istanbul

    I’m in the USA. Thanks again!

  • Ahhh I love the sheer honesty in these end of the year recaps!! I agree with Ermano and Michelyn w.r.t. the worst of 2017 – Hermès Twilly and Chanel Gabrielle both come across as uninspiring & bland, and as a targeted millennial, the marketing definitely fell flat in my opinion. 2017 was first year I really got into perfume, so it was an exciting time of learning and discovery for me. I personally loved the rhubarb trend this year and hope to see it continue to pop up in future releases!

    My choices: Giovanna Antonelli 611 Extremo, Gallivant Istanbul, April Aromatics Pink Wood, Masque Milano Times Square. In the US! Thanks for the draw! 🙂

  • I love all the end of year lists! First of all, who spells crystal as “chrystal”? I also laughed out loud reading that Gwyneth Paltrow and her perfumer should uncouple. That Micallef bottle of Ananda Tchai is GORGEOUS and the scent sounds perfect as well. I’m also intrigued by Nuit de Bakélite, because, tuberose – but the name is interesting, too. I live in the U.S. Thanks so much for the draw. All the fragrances sound wonderful; I’d be most thrilled, though, to win Nuit de Bakelite, the Shalini Jardins Nocturne, or Grandiflora Boronia.

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    Incredible post & an interesting read. I am really impressed by John Biebel on the creation of Smolderose & Eiderantler. The list is amazing & sniffing 498 perfumes is huge. If I win my choices are:
    1) Shalini Jardin Nocturne
    2) Grandiflora Boronia
    3) Nuits de Bakelite
    4) Giovanna Antonelli 611 Extremo 611 Intenso
    5) Maison Mona Di Orio Dojima
    6) Gallivant Istanbul
    Thanks for the opportinuty
    Pakistan

  • doveskylark says:

    I love reading these fragrant roundups. As someone who spends a lot of time in Brazil, I am happy to learn about 611 Extremo. I am also happy that Phoenix Botanicals gets a mention. I am enjoying exploring natural perfumes–I especially like to put them in my hair, almost asa styling product.
    If I were to win, I’d choose:
    Dojima
    Boronia
    Istanbul
    Pink Wood
    Extremo 611

    I live in the USA.

  • Wow! So many new perfumes that I haven’t heard before: CDG x Vogue 125, Grandiflora Boronia, DedCool 04. Thanks to all CafleureBon editors for doing this and another lists! Great work!

    I live in Europe and would love to win:
    Times Square
    Nuits de Bakelite
    Pink Wood

  • heartandsoul says:

    Some surprises for me this year were that I actually liked Tiffany’s new release and that after all the hype of the MFK OSM I was left disappointed.

    The comment about the Twilly bottle is hilarious…even more so because I love it and find it comical sitting next to 24 Faubourg on store shelves.

    I purchased Selperniku and crave it more every time I spray. So different. Way to go, Mr. Biebel!

    I live in the US and have been OBSESSED with trying Dojima. Your site is a wonderful wealth of information and I appreciate the chance to enter!

    I live in the US and have been obsessed with smelling Dojima