Master Perfumer Maurice Roucel of Symrise
When I last met Master Perfumer Maurice Roucel of Symrise, (one of the greatest perfumers in the world), it was January 11, 2011, and his very last day in New York; he moved back to Paris January 12. To this day, our interview is my favorite. We danced the Tango. How many journalists can say they have danced with a Chevalier de l'Ordre des Arts et des Lettres?
Maurice Roucel and Michelyn Camen, January 11, 2011 (1/1/11) Symrise New York
His candor, sense of humor and passion for perfumery has influenced me throughout the years. It was his statement that the industry needed "better briefs and creative direction", that was the impetus for me to begin the Creative Director in Perfumery Series. There were always two fragrances of the many hundreds he created that I wanted to learn more about…Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne and Eau de Parfum topped the list, especially when they relaunched in 2014. Maurice has moved once again… to Brazil. It is an honor and great pleasure to “go behind the bottle” for my second interview with Maurice Roucel and to learn more about the creation of these great fragrances.
Helmut Lang Self Portrait via wikipedia 2007
Michelyn Camen: When did you meet Helmut Lang. Did he have a very specific idea of what his first scent should smell like? How long did you work on the fragrance before it went to market in 2000?
Bed sheets image google and Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne
Maurice Roucel: I met him in 1998, in Paris. I was introduced by his friend and then 6 months later I met him in NY because there was an interest to create a specific perfume that he had in his mind. He wanted the scent of his lover's sweat …erotic, musk, skin. It took a year and half working, traveling and about ten revisions. Helmut Lang was very involved as a creative director. He had a clear vision; a good brief and he used his minimalist design and aesthetics for both the marketing and the bottle.
Helmut Lang Eau de Parfum via helmutlang.com
How does Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne differ from the Eau de Parfum?
MR: So basically it was subtle gender differentiation, I don't believe that there is gender differentiations in perfumes, that's all marketing and culture. In the Middle East there is no bias like here the West. A Middle Eastern gentleman will wear a big rose scent, here in the West not. So to answer your question, Helmut Lang EDP is a bit more floral. I used more orange flower, just slightly and more petigrain in the cologne. Both are easily worn today by men and women but in 2000 very few people understood the concept of fragrance for all, as you call it “shared” perfume.
Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne -via Helmutlang.com
Has the formula changed?
MR: No, not in any discernible way The Company changed hands a few times. P &G had the license until 2013 and the new company Fast Retailing (they own Theory and Helmut Lang) is very respectful of the work. They own the Helmut Lang brand from fashion to perfume and they are vested in its success. P &G was too cautious. When I was in Paris and NY the perfumes were hard to find. So people would chase me (even on the street) to ask me where to buy and they want more. I was giving free samples just because it was so loved. Even now, I hear it, where can I buy the fragrances… People want more places to buy Helmut Lang because so many remember these scents.
I walk in, I see You, I watch you, I wait for you, I tease you, I breathe you, I smell you on my skin -Helmut Lang
Something perhaps our readers did not know about Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne?
M.R. There sometimes is a misconception that Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur is my “musk” fragrance. This is not true; there is no musk in it at all, it is an animalic oriental. Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne is one of the muskiest perfumes on the market and is my musk masterpiece.
via helmutlang.com
Did you know that Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne and Eau de Parfum would become cult scents and so highly regarded 15 years ago?
M.R. You never know if a fragrance will be successful or have a following. It depends on many factors. A good name, intelligent marketing, and of course the jus. I wish that the larger companies wouldn’t give up so quickly on perfumes just because they don't make money the first year;look at Thierry Mugler Angel. It took a few years to catch on in 1992. Helmut Lang Eau de Parfum and Cologne are still loved today, I believe because of the quality of the scents themselves and that they are independent of fashion or mood of the day. A fragrance won’t last if it is of the moment and trendy and as I said before it won’t last if it is only about making money. .
What is a good perfume, Maurice?
M.R. A good perfume makes people smile and happy. I know these are good perfumes. They are sophisticated fragrances, they have class and most importantly they smell great.
Last words…
M.R.: To be a creator you have to be given flexibility. There are no boundaries, IFRA, availability of certain materials; these are all excuses for covering incompetency.
–Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief
Thanks to the generosity of Helmut Lang Parfums we have a reader's choice for a US registered (you must be registered) of 100 ml Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne
or
Helmut Lang Eau de Parfum. Please leave a comment with what you learned or enjoyed about my interview with Maurice Roucel and Helmut Lang Parfums, your choice of fragrance and if you have a message for him… because he will read this! If you want your comment to count twice please Like CaFleureBon Behind the Bottle on FACEBOOK. Draw closes 8/23/2015
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