ÇaFleureBon Behind the Bottle with The Lord’s Jester: Adam Gottschalk (NPG “Hermes” Brave New Scents)+ Ares Draw

 

My first exposure to Adam’s unique style of 100% natural perfumery was last year, during Mystery of Musk, a web project sponsored by the Natural Perfumers Guild.  In that project, Adam created one of my favorite natural perfumes Dionysus.  Starting off in a floral burst, with vivid musky notes,Dionysus soon settles into a rich, boozy, spicy floral, and eventually dries down to a scrumptious wood.

This year, in the NPG’s Brave New Scents project, Adam once again wowed me with a new EDP, Hermes.  This deep, green, woody scent is an ‘80’s powerhouse of natural fragrance.  A green, earthy, boozy floral, it has a musty retro feel that turns back the grandfather clock and never stops.  One moment, you’re in a freshly mowed field after a rainstorm on a summer’s day, with wet, cut, wild grasses all over your boots.  The next moment, you’re lost in the stacks in an old library, carrying a brandy snifter.  And it wears differently every time.

This is natural perfumery that doesn’t blink, doesn’t run, and doesn’t compromise.

I caught up with Adam as soon as I could after Brave New Scents, to get the scoop on his latest creations.

 

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It’s truly an honor to be able to be able to talk with you, Adam.  

Adam Gottschalk: The honor is all mine.

 Let me start off by asking you about Hermes.  This scent apparently contains some rather hard-to-source ingredients.  And they aren’t cheap, either.  What exactly are these components, and how did you come about using them?

 


Jasmine auriculatum

 

AG:  As I scanned the list of aromatics we were allowed to use, I immediately envisioned the perfume I wanted to create. It just so happens that rosa bourbonia is unavailable; and jasmine auriculatum is hard to find enough of. I hadn't planned on there being any trouble getting these ingredients again. I'm in touch with a supplier in India who makes both of them. White Lotus Aromatics, where I originally got them, has less than 6 oz. of the jasmine, and no rose bourbonia.

 

 

Harvesting of rose bourbonia

 You use actual cognac in both Dionysus and Hermes.  So when I tell people these fragrances are boozy, I am not kidding.  Cognac is a fascinating component – and I love the way you use it.  Can you tell us just a bit about it?

 AG:  I use green cognac regularly. It's one of those components, like flouve, which can be overpowering if not used with a light touch.

 

 

I haven’t smelled Ares yet, but it sounds great.  How would you describe that scent?

     AG: Ares EDC is a light amber with spicy top notes at first; after a while, the scent becomes pure amber. The new Ares EDP is one of my favorite creations. As far as I'm concerned, I could base my whole business around this one eau de parfum.

     

 

Wow!   Ares as the EDC already sounded like potent stuff.  What differences will we encounter in the EDP? 

 

 

 

Ares Eau de Cologne – a spicy amber

 

 One of the things that I love about your fragrances is the really old school, retro and apothecary vibe.  But even more than that, there is a certain authenticity that really distinguishes them.  Recently, I’ve spotted more mainstream fragrances (no names) that are trying to pull off a handcrafted, old-timey presentation, but obviously without using naturals.    They seemed – to be completely honest – cute but inauthentic.  Is such “pretend” retro a cause for concern?  Or is it bound not to work, and something not to worry about?

AG:  I myself wouldn't worry about it. The truth, just like the best perfume, will always win out.

 

 Here’s an easy one.  Why the Greek gods?

AG: I thought that with a name like Lord's Jester, Greek gods would work perfectly. It's all about being sacred and holy.

 

 

Sandalwood Absolute

 

 

 Your very newest fragrances – Gaia EDC and Hemera EDT – can you tell us a bit more about them?  When will they be available?

 

AG:  Gaia  EDC is a refreshing cologne, with linden-blossom absolute and citrus notes in the top; it's also got the combination of orange-blossom in the heart, and neroli on top (15 notes altogether).  I like to use that combination because I feel sometimes it tightens certain compositions up.  Hemera  is based on sandalwood in the base, honeysuckle in the heart, and a touch of ginger on top (16 notes altogether). They'll be available after some changes to the web site.   Right now you can't use Internet Explorer for my site, since Microsoft refuses to keep up-to-date with the CSS standards (I programmed the site myself – I know HTML, CSS, JavaScript, etc.). 

  

Now, on your blog, you said you had permission to sell Gaia – a bespoke perfume that you had made for friends.  The implication was that you might not sell Hemera – the fragrance you made for your girlfriend.  What’s the scoop on that?  This reminds me of the backstory on Givenchy’s L’Interdit, which was once Audrey Hepburn’s personal scent.

AG: I had to get permission from Ericka Tullis, for whom Gaia was made, to sell it to the public. The idea with bespoke perfume is that it's supposed to be for the one paying client; John Reasinger talked to me about what we could do is she didn't give permission. Hermera was made for my girlfriend, but I've always been clear with Marycarmen about my intention to sell it to the public.

 

You have always been very open about the fact that you suffer from MS.  This is still a condition with low public awareness – despite some exciting recent scientific developments in understanding it.  What would you like to tell us about this aspect of your life?  There are many times that I’ve wondered how it impacts you as an artist.  But other than that, I’m just giving you the floor.

AG: I can't physically actually put perfume together myself.  I stopped being able to do the actual blending about 2008. I rely on my assistant to do the actual blending, with me watching her closely. I recently got angioplasty for CCSVI, and was nothing less than amazed that I actually felt better immediately. No more problems sleeping, no heat sensitivity, pee without hesitation (it used to take at least five minutes), etc. I am hopeful that a cure will not come with a single drug or treatment, but with a combination of treatments, supplements, drugs, etc.

 

 


  

 I  think it’s fascinating that you’re fluent in Mandarin Chinese.    How did that happen?

AG:  When I was 17, I got a book called Work Your Way Around the World.  It was mostly on working in Europe, but in the back there were two paragraphs on Taiwan; it said, "We're not sure, but supposedly, you can find work teaching English here."  They listed one guesthouse for backpackers/foreigners; that's exactly where I ended up – the Happy Family guesthouse. It was like living underground at the time.  Martial law had only been lifted three years before my arrival . 

 

  Back to my favorite, Dionysus.  That one uses spikenard – a really interesting component.  It’s unusual today, but it was extremely popular in ancient times.  Can you tell us a bit about working with it?  

AG: I knew I wanted to make something musky, boozy, and erotic with Dionysus. Spikenard works perfectly; it's just boozy and musky enough to work the way it should in Dionysus

 


Natural Perfumer’s Guild®

 What is your take on the future of natural perfumery?  I used to have my doubts that it could survive, but now it seems to be a growing and vibrant subculture.  Is it safe yet?

AG: Safe? I don't know, but I'm determined to become one of the best natural perfumers the modern world has yet known.

 

Where are your scents going?  What is the trend now in your own perfume journey?

AG: Up to now, it's been sort of willy-nilly. After the recent Fashion Week Tampa Bay, it became clear that I need to make an actual catalog.  More than just a brochure – an actual catalog. Before I do that, I'll have to choose certain perfumes I will always make. I think Anthea solid, Ares, EDC and EDP, Selene,EDP and soliid, Daphne, Demeter and  Heracles  EDTs would certainly be among them.

 

I have often likened the true artisan style to microbrew ales in a world of mega-factory pilsners.  It’s sometimes not an easy transition for people. If somebody wanted to break out of mainstream scents into natural niche, and specifically your scents, which would be your most accessible and friendly scents for people first exploring “naturals?”

AG: That's a tough call. I'd say Ares EDC or Daphne EDP,Daphne EDT, and Selene EDP solid are my most accessible perfumes.

 


 

It has truly been a pleasure, Adam.  As a lover of amber, I’m really looking forward to Ares EDP.  Any final words for our readers?

AG:     More perfumes are in the works. I'd like to say to perfumistas in general: you ain't seen nothin' yet!

 

  

– Neil Sternberg, Contributor

 

  Courtesy of Adam Gottschalk and Lord's Jester we have a draw for a 15mL bottle of Ares EDP. Leave a comment telling us what was your favorite part of the interview or what you think your favorite Lord's Jester fragrance would be. Draw closes on Sunday October 9, 2011. LIKE our Behind The Bottle: CaFleureBon Q&A Facebook page .We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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24 comments

  • ololiuqui says:

    My favorite part “the edp will last 24 hours” 😀
    I love Ares the only reason I didn’t buy it was the longetivty.This was my first expirience with all natural perfumery and I was blown away.Magical,warm,live,vivid, fantasitc smell.I’ve tryed also Demeter and Heracles and I chose Heracles.I find it close to Ares but more complex it’s also marvelous scent.I would love to try the entire line,i expect all of them to be treasures.
    Thanks for this interview and thank Adam for this extraordinary creations.

  • sandi L says:

    Neil, great interview with Adam:-) He is so genuine and gifted. My favorite part of the interview is the last sentence from Adam “You ain’t seen nothin yet!” My choice Ares EDP.
    Thank you Cafleurebon for your participation in this NPG project..

  • Trey says:

    Always willing to search for the “perfect” amber, I’d most look forward to trying the Ares EDP itself.

    My favorite part was the frank discussion of working “around” MS; it’s quite inspiring for some reason!

  • harper says:

    favorite part of interview — oh definitely — this:

    “I recently got angioplasty for CCSVI, and was nothing less than amazed that I actually felt better immediately. No more problems sleeping, no heat sensitivity, pee without hesitation (it used to take at least five minutes), etc. ”

    yay, adam!!!

    and i think (and i might be wrong, of course) that i would like hermes best. or, yes, ares.

  • Michael Singels says:

    Adam’s work is outstanding. My favorite is Dionysus, with Ares EDC and Heracles being very close contenders.

    The most interesting part of the great interview was learning about Ares EDP, and the 24 hour longevity. I will definitely be checking that one out when it becomes available, along with Hermes!

    Keep up the outstanding work Adam, you are amazing.

  • Asali says:

    Thank you very much for this wonderful in depth interview. I enjoyed every bit of it, however, there is no doubt that, having experienced MS up close, this part of the interview was of particular interest to me. I am always so amazed by the stories of people who, despite certain aspects of their lives working against them, manage to keep doing what they love.
    Ares EdP sounds like just my kind of amber, oh how I would love to try that.
    Thanks, Neil for the interview, and Adam Gottschalk and CFB for the beautiful draw.

  • marcopietro says:

    I find very interesting the part of interview about Hermes ingredients, and my choice is the same: Hermes

  • Isa says:

    My favorite part was when Adam talked about how he learnt Mandarin Chinese. I’m sure that his staying in the Happy Family guesthouse was quite an experience 🙂

    Ares sound wonderful, and I love amber scents, so please enter me in the draw. Thanks to Çafleurebon and Adam!

  • brigitte says:

    My favorite part of the interview was learning that one of Adam’s creations contained Spikenard, that ancient oil I love so much but is rarely seen in modern perfumes. Thank you for this draw and for bringing natural perfumers into the forefront!

  • Lisa A says:

    I loved this whole article! I have not tried any of Adam’s perfumes yet. I’m on a few perfume lists so I’ve definitely heard about his perfumes but reading this article makes me want to try them all! I loved learning about Adam overall, but my favorite part was learning that he has MS and continues to follow his passion no matter what. He’s inspiring, and I definitely plan to sample his perfumes soon. Thanks for the giveaway!

  • Neil says:

    Thanks, everybody! I’m glad people are enjoying learning about Adam as much as I did. He’s quite simply a fascinating person, and he’s had a fascinating life, too, despite all the obstacles he’s had to overcome.

    Adam had a wonderful story about learning Mandarin that he shared with me after the interview. Learning it a bit too well, actually. (It has me very curious who his bunkmates were at the guesthouse!) It was too long for the feature, but I’ll share it here….

    “I’ve always had excellent facility for languages. Mandarin, spoken, is very simple– there is no grammar — so I was especially quick to become extremely fluent. Once, when I was in the mainland, I hailed a rickshaw. I told him where I was going, and asked where I was from. I said, “New York.” And he said he was talking about where in CHINA I was from. I insisted I was an American, and he literally stopped the rickshaw to turn around and look at me. He explained he thought I was a muslim from Xinjiang province in the far west of China (I had a bushy beard at the time); he added that he thought I’d learned from books, and in school, because my Mandarin was ‘text-book perfect’.”

    I have to laugh – I’m sure Adam looked nothing like the traditional Yankee tourist at the time!

    Yes – the Ares EDP – 24 hours – amber – oh yeah. That one has me excited. Though I still have to stick up for Dionysus.

    Hermes – I should also add that it uses Africa stone – another rarity that you’ll find almost nowhere other than all-natural perfumery. Africa stone is unique, and truly powerful – prepare yourself if you’ve never sniffed it. It’s the .44 magnum of green. It’s a bit like civet and other natural musks, but has a much more botanical feel – in short – it’s absolutely mesmerizing stuff. It gives a certain vegetal realism that nothing in the designer world can even touch. Putting it on your wrist is like a Tiffany charm bracelet with a buffalo chip and a hay bale attached. Perfect for a redneck perfumista! 🙂

  • Mary Beth says:

    Bless him for speaking out about his MS and cheers for working around it (I know it’s tough) and trudging down his own path. Know that a bunch of us have your back!

  • Francesca says:

    Simply wonderful to read about your processes Adam.I’ve enjoyed reading about you, the man behind the work and I feel sentimental about your affiliation to the Greek Gods. I would adore to try your perfume, your talent shines through this interview.

  • Ccc says:

    I enjoyed every part of this article and am glad he didn’t give up his passion. He sounds like a fighter. His attitude is inspiring.
    And on top of that , he thinks the best is in front of him. I admire his drive.

    I think Ares Edp would be the favorite one.

  • Z. Boudreaux says:

    I love Adam’s Selene and would love to try more of his perfumes. I love the story of how he’s decided to name his perfumes and think it’s very clever. Thanks for entering me in the draw.

  • Anya says:

    Words can’t do Hermes justice. I was so surprised and delighted when I got the sample for the Brave New Scents project. It’s a standout. Ares, of course, is gorgeous, too, but Hermes just captivated me. I recommend buying samples of all of Adam’s products, they’re that good. Thanks so much, Adam, for your talents.

  • Adam Gottschalk says:

    Forgot to add Anthea solid among my most accessible perfumes.

    Thanks, Anya, and everyone else, for your very kind and encouraging words.

    Yours in fragrant delight, Adam

  • Warum says:

    This is an amazing interview. I cannot believe the different twists and turns it had. I was interested in the first place because fragrances based on Greek gods and goddesses is my favorite concept to start with, in fact I have fantasies about some of the ways to create an image of a particular goddess in a fragrance.

    Then I enjoyed the discussion of bespoke fragrances. Then the whole discussion of MS came about (I have a friend who has MS as well), so honest. Then the knowledge of Mandarin Chinese popped out. Whoa! By this time my head was swimming.

    As a rose chypre Daphne had me at hello — no, I haven’t smelled it, but I’d love to. I may not be guessing correctly but it may be my favorite perfume.

  • Jules says:

    As a total “amber-holic” I’m totally addicted to amber, pretty much in whichever form it comes. So I imagine that Ares will quite possibly be my fave from Adam. But I suspect that I’ll probably have an attraction to both Heracles and Demeter too !? …
    I’m so looking forward to trying Adam’s concoctions. They sound wonderful. … I’ve always had a soft spot for Greek mythology too, so I suppose that’s helped spark my interest in Lord’s Jester.
    ~ (Thanx for the draw !)

  • Feliciag says:

    That is an inspiring story and Mandarin Chinese is no easy language to learn. Nothing seems to have come easy for Adam and I applaude his perservence. I would be proud to wear any of his creations and humbly recount some details from this interview.Touching and honest. I liked everything that I read about this article I think Hermes sounds very enticing. Rock on Adam! And thanks Cafleurebon. xo

  • Holly F. says:

    I think y favorite Lord’s Jester fragrance would be Dionysus or Ares. I really enjoyed reading the article, and hope, as well, for a cure for MS. I also found it interesting that he created a fragrance for his girlfriend. What a wonderful gift!

  • chris says:

    Adam, your passion and beauty are very obviously reflected in your artwork. Thank you for sharing your gifts with the world. 🙂

  • Ragna says:

    Adam is a talented perfumer and an artist of LIFE. His creations are amazing. I missed this blog from months ago but am compelled to comment even months later because his samples made such an impression on me. I still treasure them and trying to chose my favorite..ha. I have really enjoyed reading more about Adam and his inspiring work.
    LOVE,
    Ragna